Article content:
Until recently, countries of the former USSR could compete with the tropics of Asia, America and Africa in the number of chlorophytums per square meter in nature. This is not at all surprising, since home care for chlorophytum at home did not require much effort. The recognizable rosettes of green or motley drooping leaves could be found not only in apartments, but also in the vast majority of institutions.
Unfortunately, due to the mass appearance in the sale of unprecedented cultures, interest in lowly chlorophytums has cooled off noticeably. However, the ongoing selection helps to regain lost leadership positions, and in terms of their ability to purify the air, these plants have almost no equal.
How to care for chlorophytum at home? What types of plants are most worthy of a place in the gardener's collection?
Of the two hundred existing species, only a few representatives of the genus are cultivated as potted indoor plants. All of them are unpretentious, but due to differences in the natural lifestyle, home care for different types of chlorophytes has its own characteristics.
. Types of indoor chlorophytum.
. Most often in the premises you can find chlorophytum crested. Young copies are not too interesting. They have predominantly green linear foliage, collected in a decaying outlet over time. To transform the aquifolia plants familiar from childhood help babies hanging on long shoots.
On the same shoots you can often notice small star-shaped flowers of white color. Chlorofitumas in hanging pots are especially cute, resembling children's carousels with horses jumping under the dome.
Today, at the disposal of indoor plants lovers there are not only green, but also variegated forms.
Thanks to the selection on the window sill, you can grow chlorophytum with green and white striped or effectively curved, almost curly foliage.
In addition to the haunter of offices, kindergartens, hospitals and houses - Chlorophytum crested, on the window sills there is a place for winged chlorophytum or orchidstellar. Plants are very close in appearance, and flower growers deserve the attention thanks to the orange leaf stalks.
They stand out vividly against the background of smooth broad-lanceolate greens and gave the name “fire flash” or “orange on green” to the chlorophyte. 
How to care for chlorophytum at home?
Renowned for the unpretentiousness and endurance of the chlorophytum, we can safely recommend beginner growers and those who, by forgetfulness or employment, often forget about their green wards.
Staying without watering, in the heat or in the cold, the plants lose the brightness of the foliage, stop growing, but survive due to the specific nutrient reserves in the thickened roots. It is necessary to transfer chlorophytum to comfortable conditions, most of the leaves regain their former, fresh look. And yet, you should not tempt fate! 
What conditions do indoor flowers need? How to organize at home care for chlorophytum orange and crested?
Place for a pot with chlorophytum is chosen so that the plant is in diffused light for at least 12 hours a day. For variegated forms, the lighting should be somewhat brighter than for their completely green relatives. If the flower feels deficient in the sun:
- the variegated plant will gradually turn green, losing its bright striped color;
- green species will fade, and a long stay in the shade leads to yellowing of the leaves.
For all chlorophytums, the lack of light means cessation of growth, up to the drying out of the already formed daughter rosettes.
Therefore, organizing home care for chlorophytum, as in the photo, he is given a place on the eastern or western windows. Placing on the south side, it is better to move the pot deep into the room. In the summer, it is useful to take the flowers to fresh air, and in the winter you can and should highlight. But here it is important not to overdo it. When there is an abundance of sunlight and when the plants are exposed to direct rays, the leaves appear first bright, and then dried, brown burn marks.
Regular maintenance of chlorophytum at home is reduced to watering, moderate fertilizing and transplanting, when the powerful roots of the plant fully occupy the entire volume of the pot.
For a comfortable life, a temperature of 18–25 ° C is sufficient for a culture. If during the cold season the pot stays cool, the plant maintains its contents at 10–12 ° C, but only in dry soil. Watering at such a time is fraught with root decay and death. In a warmer room, the flower is watered regularly, but waiting for the majority of the earthy coma to dry. With the onset of spring and in summer, especially in the heat, watering increases.
Chlorophytum loves soft, better rainwater, but it tolerates watering with ordinary tap water that has been separated for a couple of days without any vagaries.
From spring until deep autumn, until the flower forms the daughter rosettes and blooms, it is fed with complex means for indoor plants with decorative foliage. The frequency of fertilization varies from 1 to 2 times per month depending on the condition of the flower. Overfeeding plants is not worth it, because it threatens to weaken their own immunity and decrease resistance to attacks of pests.
Unlike other indoor crops, chlorophytum does not need sprays or other measures to increase the humidity of the air. And yet the florist can hear the question: “What should I do if the tips of the leaves of the chlorophytum are dry?” Indeed, this symptom may indicate excessive dryness of the air. But more often it signals a lack of irrigation. If the soil is moistened in time and a warm shower so loved by the plant is put into practice, the new leaves will be juicy and bright from the base to the tips.
If there are dried flower stalks on the flower, daughter outlets or leaves, they are removed to avoid the settlement of pests or fungi. It is especially important to monitor the hygiene of chlorophytum planted in the garden for the summer.
Transplantation and reproduction of chlorophytum
Chlorophyta are fast-growing herbaceous plants with a powerful root system. As it grows, the roots quickly fill the entire pot, displacing the soil. In this case, not to avoid chlorophytum transplantation. It is carried out in the spring, and the procedure can and should be combined with the division of the adult bush.
With proper care, watering and dressing, the plant not only actively blooms, forms babies, but also forms young leaves coming from the bush. If they are not removed in time, the dense curtain curvature of chlorophytum, as in nature, can reach one meter in diameter, but the intensity of flowering drops sharply.
Some species, such as Chlorophytum orange, do not give familiar outlets on the ends of the hanging shoots. Therefore, to obtain a new flower in this case is possible only with the help of seeds and dividing the bush.
Young plants, as a rule, already have their own root system and quickly take root after transplanting chlorophytum into a new pot. The same applies to the transfer of plants to a larger container. Pots for large chlorophytum is better to buy ceramic with thick walls. Thin plastic sometimes does not withstand the pressure of the root system, and large longitudinal cracks form on it. Plants feel great in hanging pots and on strong stable supports.
When dividing a bush and reproducing chlorophytum with rosettes, plastic pots are not forbidden. Such specimens can be transplanted to other cultures with similar needs and habits.
Both in single plantings and in proximity to other plants, chlorophytum, which does not like crowding, is transplanted once every 2-3 years. Soil for flowers should be nutritious, moisture-consuming and actively aerated. In dense soil, plants slow down growth, the roots more slowly master the volume of the pot, the foliage is not so lush and bright. For transplantation, you can use both a ready-made universal substrate, adding humus to it, and make the mixture yourself based on soddy earth, humus and sand.
Young plants are planted in the same substrate during the reproduction of chlorophytum with rosettes. Large children, having sufficient root budding for rooting, are immediately transferred to separate pots. Smaller in size, weak sockets are better to pre-put in the water, where they will give roots in a matter of days and be ready for transplanting.
