Do-it-yourself machine repair can be done by anyone who can handle a screwdriver and pliers. The article will discuss the most common faults washing machines and available to each method of repair.

It is important to remember that the warranty for the repair of a washing machine, obtained when it was purchased, is valid until the seals are removed.

If you decide not to call the master from the warranty workshop, but to do the repair yourself, then you will not be able to receive a free replacement under warranty for defective parts. Given this moment and the fact that there is not always time to understand the intricacies of technology, Muscovites, for example, can order repair of washing machines at home in Moscow economy class. If there is enough technical knowledge and there is a desire to get to the true cause of a breakdown, then you can get to work.

The necessary tools used for small repairs of washing machines at home:

• flat screwdriver;
• crosshead screwdriver;
• pliers;
• with pliers with elongated bent working part;
• side cutters;
• wrench set;
• pliers for hose clamps.

Many minor problems with washing machines can be eliminated at home without the involvement of qualified professionals.

The washing machine stopped draining the water

Possible malfunctions:

• garbage stuck in the filtere pump;
• pipe is clogged, water does not pass between the tank and the pump;
• debris in the pump;
• clogged drain hose;
• immobilizes the pump impeller;
• pump not working.

The sequence of repair

Any repair of home washing machines with their own hands must begin with a power outage. Remove the bottom panel, in the right corner of many machines is the pump. We substitute a basin for water, take out the pump, clean the garbage, insert it back.

With a small amount of water remaining in the washing machine, the pipe is likely to be partially clogged. We unscrew the snail fasteners, loosen the hose clamp and drain the water from it into the basin. We clean a corrugation, we make the return assembly.

Check drain hose, clean if necessary.

After removing the filter, inspect the pump impeller. Remove the garbage, check the free run of the impeller.

Perform a pump check with the filter removed. We turn on the “Spin” mode on the machine's panel and watch the impeller work. If it does not move, then the pump is broken. Remove the drain assembly, disconnect it from the pump. Do-it-yourself repairing a broken washing machine pump is very problematic at home, so we replace it with a serviceable one.

Details in the article: washing machine does not drain: what to do?

In washing mode, no water is collected

Probable malfunctions:

• TEN does not work;
• intake valve clogging;
• breakdown of the drain pump.

Repair sequence

Turning off the power to the machine. We measure the resistance of the heater. In the event of a malfunction, we do not do independent repair of the heater for different types of machines at home, it is easier to replace it.

When checking the inlet valve, close the water supply tap. Disconnect the hose and check the patency of the grid. We clean if necessary.

We check the water pressure from the filling hose, with a small pressure we clean it. With a normal flow of water, the whole thing lies in the exhaust valve. We replace it with a new one.

The drain pump of the machine can be very worn out and the automation blocks the water supply. Repair of the pump of most types of washing machines we do not manufacture by ourselves, we change it to a new one.

Read also: the washing machine does not collect water

There is no normal spinning of the linen

You need to check:

• whether the filter of the washing machine is clogged;
• blockage in the pipe;
• garbage in the pump;
• impeller pump locked;
• garbage in the drain hose;
• pump not working;
• blockage in the sewer;
• wiper motor brushes worn out;
• electric motor does not work;
• heating element damaged;
• electronic module fault.

The sequence of repair

We do our own repair in the following order: by turning on the “Spin” mode with the water drained from the tank, we are convinced that the drain unit is in good condition.

We check the heating element with an ohmmeter, if it is faulty, we change it. Access to the heater is obtained by removing the side panel of the washing machine.

In most brands of washing machines, we can independently check the electric motor, only after removing the side panel of the case. Before removing the engine should remember the position of the mounting bolts and electrical wires.

After removing the drive belt and disconnecting the electrical wiring, we remove the fastening screws. We pull off the engine from the runners and check the brushes on the collector. If the engine has pretty worked and the brushes are worn out, then we replace it. After an independent repair, the assembly is carried out in the reverse order. The housing must be disassembled before the end of the test.

Connect the washing machine to the network and check "Spin".If everything is in order, we complete the package. If it does not work as before, then a master diagnostics is needed - we invite a specialist from the warranty workshop.

Do not do home repair or check the electronic module at home. It must be removed by a qualified technician.

Moreover, accurate diagnostics should be done in the conditions of a specialized workshop.

Water does not heat up

Possible causes:

• heating element burned out;
• does not apply voltage to the heater;
• does not operate the pressure switch.

Sequence of actions

If there is a stale smell in the washed laundry and the washing quality is not good enough, as well as a cold glass window in the high-temperature mode, it is necessary to check the heating element operation.

Power off the car. Remove the rear part of the case, disconnect the terminals connected to the heating element and the tester, previously set at two hundred ohms, measure the resistance of the heating element. It should be about 25-50 Ohms, with values ​​around one - a break, change the heating element.

If the resistance between the phase and the ground is more than one Ohm, the insulation is broken, we change the element to a new one. First, disconnect the terminals of all wires from the water heater and unscrew the nut on the bolt securing the heating element. Pressing the bolt, remove the metal part of the heating element. Do not do repair yourself, just change to a new element, following the installation site in the tank.

Visually inspect the worn insulation of the power supply wires of the heating element. If a wire break is detected, we connect and solder the connection. Then reliably isolate the place of soldering.

Pressostat may not work when the water level tube is blocked. We pick up and blow.

A pool of water under the

washer Possible faults:

• clogged detergent dispenser;
• flow conduit;
• tank flow;
• leaks tank gland;
• leakage of the boot window cuff;
• flowing pump.

Repair sequence

Turning off the power of the washing machine. Visually determine the specific location of the leak.
Filling and drain hoses: after checking and finding the leak, you can treat the problem areas with silicone, change only the gasket or tighten the clamps. If it is impossible to replace, replace the barrier.

The detergent dispenser bin is often clogged with hardened residues; cleaning is required. Leaks can produce high water pressure if the intake valve is faulty. Eliminate the flow of the dispenser by removing and thorough cleaning. If there is still a leak, reduce the water pressure. If there is no result, change the inlet valve.

Note: the washing machine flows from the bottom: what to do?

A leak on the front panel of the inspection hatch will tell us about damage to the front adjacent wall of the cuff. Replacement required.

The vast majority of washing machines can be repaired with their own hands at home, only subject to certain safety regulations.