- How the
- refrigerator compressor is arranged Dismantling the
- compressor Checking the resistance
- Pressure checking
- Checking the current
In this article we will tell you how to check the compressor of the refrigerator for operation, describe its design and device of this element. The compressor is one of the main components of the refrigerator, so to speak, "heart".If it does not start, refuses to work, then the unit itself will cease to function. Is it possible to personally repair this part of the refrigerator if it is suspected of its malfunction? It is possible, but this requires certain knowledge and skills.
As an arrangement of the compressor of the refrigerator
In the back of the refrigerator, below, we usually see the compressor housing, it is usually painted black, inside of which it is hermetically closed. It is in a state of weightlessness, in an oil bath. Compressors for most models of household refrigerators in design do not differ. Typically, their design is presented in the form of a piston motor with a starting winding, operating from alternating electric current. Principle of operation: the compressor constantly creates pressure, under the action of which refrigerant( freon) vapors enter the condenser, where they are cooled and, in the form of liquid, go further through copper tubes, cooling the inside of the refrigerator and taking heat, after which it goes to the evaporator, and from thereinto the compressor. The process is cyclical. Naturally, if the engine does not turn on, the system will not function.
There are three terminals on the compressor housing. They are made in the form of pins and located at the bottom of the compressor, forming a triangle. One of the contacts comes from the starting winding, the other from the working winding, and the third has one common conclusion. Also, any compressor includes a relay - a device through which the engine starts. He joins three contacts and usually looks like a small box. In more modern refrigerators, in which the activation speed is adjustable, the compressor is connected to another box made using more complex electrical circuits.
Causes of electrical device failure:
- burned down compressor;
- damaged trigger;The
- cable that the appliance is attached to is faulty or damaged.
It will be logical to first check the cable itself, and then proceed to inspect the possible malfunction of the rest of the device, if the cable is working properly.
Also sometimes there are times when the compressor turns on, buzzes, the light is on, but it does not cool or cool, but very weakly. In this case, the refrigerant needs to be pumped into the compressor, in our case it is freon, sinceit most likely follows. In this case it is necessary to call the master, who will find the leak and pump the gas.
Dismantling the compressor
In order to dismantle the compressor you need the following tools:
- multimeter;
- cutting pliers( pliers);
- soldering lamp.
First you need to snack copper tubes connecting the compressor with other elements. From them gas( freon) will start to leave. It is explosive, so you need to dismantle away from sources of fire, and also recommended to do it in a well-ventilated area. After all the gas comes out, you can continue to work. It is required to separate the remnants of the tubes using a burner and disconnect the compressor from the base, unscrewing the bolts. Next, open the starting relay with a screwdriver.
. Resistance check.
. The next step that should be taken in case the compressor is not working is a resistance check, sinceif damaged, it may cause electric shock. This is because the winding was damaged, and the voltage from it jumps onto the case. This happens most often with old aggregates. This is checked by measuring the resistance of each of the three contacts together with the body of the refrigerator, while it is necessary that there should not be any paint in the place that is called. The multimeter should show on the scoreboard "infinity", i.e.show nothing, otherwise your compressor is unusable.
Pressure Test
If the resistance test did not produce results, but the refrigerator still does not work, you should check it with a pressure gauge, i.e.check the pressure inside the enclosure. It is necessary to connect the simulator to the injection fitting, and take readings when the compressor is on. If the pressure gauge shows a pressure of 6 atmospheres, what is this figure is grinded in, in this case the refrigerator is serviceable. If lower, then you will need to replace the compressor housing.
Current Test
Another important step is to check the relay, or whether the current reaches the electric motor. It is advisable to take a working relay that has been tested and tested. It is advised to use a multimeter with tongs.
After connecting the working relay to the compressor, it is necessary to turn it on and connect the multimeter. Make it necessary to clamp one of the wires with pliers. Depending on the engine power, the tester will also change. With a motor power of 140 W, the display should be 1.3 A. And with a power indicator of 120 W from 1.1 to 1.2 A. In these cases, the relay is corrected, and sincein most cases it fails, it is worth checking it out.
