How to make a hood in a private house?

In order for an influx of fresh air to enter a private house, as well as an already polluted one, it is necessary install a ventilation system - a hood, which can be natural, forced or combined. But regardless of the choice, ventilation will perform its function only if preliminary calculations are made that take into account the size of the room and the features of the future system.

Natural ventilation

At the design stage of the house, a natural ventilation scheme is compiled without fail. The principle of its action is to ventilate the house due to the natural circulation of air mass. In order for the system to perform its function properly, the influx of fresh air and the removal of already moist must be carried out through different rooms. Typically, the space through which air enters is called dry, and the outlet room is called wet.

You can ventilate the house in four ways:

• channel, when the house is equipped with vertically arranged channels.
• channelless. This method can be used for residential buildings, but it is more suitable for industrial buildings.
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• permanent. In this case, the premises are provided with a significant influx of air that enters through the air channels.
• periodic, when the "new" air enters at certain intervals.

To increase the level of air exchange in the house, special fans are mounted on the outlet channels, which can work both continuously and at a set time. Accordingly, such equipment requires a power connection.

Advantages

It does not need to install expensive equipment, system failures are automatically excluded. But even with fans installed on the exhaust ducts, the circulation system naturally consumes small amounts of electricity. Consequently, money is saved. Another advantage of the system is its compatibility with other types of air exchange.

disadvantages

This type of ventilation in a wooden house directly depends on weather conditions, which directly affects the ventilation of the building. As a rule, insufficient intake of fresh air is manifested in the form of the appearance of a fungus, as well as the accumulation of toxic substances that may come from building materials. Thus, it, not combined with other systems, will not always be able to ensure the proper exchange of air in the house.

Forced hood

Since the dependence of natural ventilation on external climatic conditions does not allow fully ventilate the premises, then to ensure air circulation in a private house, the installation of an additional equipment. Air exchange, carried out using special installed devices, as well as accessories to them, is called forced ventilation.

According to the principle of work, it is divided into:

• supply and exhaust, carried out using special equipment. Also a variation of this method is the installation of recycling equipment. In this case, the exhaust air passes through the filters, is partially mixed with street air, and then the purified air is returned to the room;
• supply with the possibility of heating. For the system to work on this principle, a recuperator is needed that uses the exhausted but already heated air;
• supply with cooling. Here, air conditioning is mandatory;
• supply and exhaust. The most common system for private homes. The circulation of air masses is provided by the installed equipment in combination with elements of natural circulation. Such an air exchange scheme is relatively easy to install and quite effective.

However, the operation of the forced system is carried out by connecting its devices to the power supply network. In addition, the design and calculations of the system are carried out at the stage of drawing up the plan for the construction of the house. All components of forced ventilation perform different functions, but the main and only task of all elements is the intake of fresh air into the premises and the withdrawal of the already used to the street.

The following elements and equipment are included in the compulsory system:

• grilles to protect ventilation ducts from rodents, insects and debris;
• filters that prevent dust and pollen from entering the house;
• air valves that regulate the flow of air into the house. In winter they protect the system from icy wind gusts;
• fans serving to create a continuous flow in the ventilation ducts;
• sound absorbers ensuring silent operation of the system;
• heaters heating the incoming air;
• ventilation ducts for air movement.

How to properly install the hood in the kitchen in a private house

Preparatory work on installing the hood in the kitchen begins with measurements of the room (for more details, see the installation in this article, and how to choose the right one - in this). After all, the obtained values ​​will affect the choice of device model.

First of all, the cubic volume of the room is calculated by multiplying the length, width and height of the kitchen. Then the result is multiplied by a factor of ten. This value determines the number of air changes per hour, established by applicable standards. The result obtained will be the minimum power required for the measured kitchen.

Since all exhaust devices need electricity, the installation locations of the devices are equipped with sockets.

Preparing a niche for a kitchen hood is also an important factor. After all, a centralized gas pipe can be carried out so that in the future it will interfere with the installation of equipment on the wall. The way out of this situation is the installation of brackets that will allow you to leave the necessary space between the wall and the hood. In addition, the wall should not have obvious defects, should be strong enough to withstand the exhaust kitchen system.

To install the equipment you will need:

• building level;
• roulette;
• hammer drill;
• set of screwdrivers;
• jigsaw;
• hacksaw for metal;
• silicone sealant.

Hood manufacturers provide consumers with three major device modifications:

• outboard;
• recessed;
• dome or fireplace.

Also, according to the method of air purification, they are divided into devices that remove exhaust air to the street, and models operating in recirculation mode.

When the device is operating in recirculation mode, the hood does not throw pollution to the street, but conducts air through the filter and returns it back to the room.

Since suspended models operate in recirculation mode (more details), then they are more suitable for small kitchens. This is because conventional filtration is not able to cope with air purification in large rooms.

Hanging hoods equipped with filters that must be changed periodically. The frequency of replacements is indicated in the technical documentation of the device.

Of the positive qualities of the devices stand out low price, the ability to be attached to the kitchen cabinet, and also the lack of additional components, since the suspension equipment does not need a system air vent.

Built-in appliances practically hidden from the eyes and performs the function of air flow. The case of such a device is mounted directly in the kitchen cabinet, and only the air intake remains on the outside, which basically has a sliding panel.

The duct of the built-in exhaust device can be led out to the street either through the ventilation system already in the house, or through the wall or roof.

The most expensive model range, but at the same time the most powerful, is considered a fireplace or dome class. Hoods in this series not only provide stable air purification, but also become pronounced elements of the design of the room. In addition to factory manufacturing, dome models can be of individual design.

Installing a cooker hood over a gas stove

How to make a cooker hood over a stove with your own hands in a private house depends on the shape and size of the device. At the same time, the installation features and dimensions of the kitchen unit modules also influence the installation of the appliance.

There are three mounting options:

• built-in;
• with fastening to the bottom of the cabinet;
• with wall mount.

To install the device in the cabinet, the lower shelf of the kitchen module is removed first. Subsequently, it may or may not be installed at all, or a hole is made in it with the help of a jigsaw, suitable in size with an exhaust hood.

On a shelf located in the middle of the cabinet, holes are made for the electric cable and duct. Then the device case is applied to the fixed shelf and the points of fastenings are marked with a pencil. Next, the hood is attached using self-tapping screws.

The device, mounted under the kitchen cabinet, differs from the built-in version only in that the hood body remains outside. If desired, it is closed with a false panel or any other finishing material using double-sided tape or glue.

When attaching the hood to the wall, first of all, the places of fastening are marked through the rear panel of the device. Holes are drilled according to marks, dowels are inserted into them, at least 5 cm long. Then, screws are screwed into the two upper holes so that the hood can be hung freely on them. After checking the reliability of the structure, without removing the device, the remaining screws are screwed in and the upper ones are tightened.

Duct connection

Before you connect the air duct to the hood, you need to decide on the choice of manufacturing material. There are two types of pipes for removing exhaust air from the room (more read here):

• corrugated, which are made of aluminum. Although the installation of this type of pipe does not require additional adapters, the sound insulation property of corrugated products is very low. However, noise during the operation of the hood can be reduced by tensioning the pipe.
• plastic, having a cross section both rectangular and round. In the latter, much less dirt accumulates during operation, the resistance is lower than in rectangular pipes. To install this class you will need L-shaped adapters.

But regardless of the material of manufacture and cross-section, the diameter of the duct should coincide with the inlet of the hood. With a smaller pipe size, the cooker hood will work in heavy duty, which will lead to an early engine breakdown.

The installed duct must not completely block the opening of the natural ventilation shaft. To do this, a special grill is purchased and installed, the valve of which closes when the hood is turned on, and opens after the device is finished. This mode of operation makes it possible to fully operate the system of natural air circulation.

Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet

The task of the installed ventilation in the bathroom comes down to cleaning this room from various odors and eliminating high humidity.

Since the operation of natural extraction is completely dependent on external climatic factors, it will not always be able to cope with its task. In addition, the absence of special grilles on the outside of the ventilation ducts makes it possible for small rodents and insects to enter the house. However, the natural air circulation system has its advantages, which are simplicity of design and relatively low price. The absence of complex mechanical elements in the natural hood predicts its long and uninterrupted operation.

The ventilation ducts for the bathroom are selected with a diameter of at least 50 cubic meters per hour, and a 30-meter wide cubic meter duct is suitable for the toilet. The ability to remove odors and humid air in the bathroom provides a forced ventilation system. Her work is carried out using installed fans, which can be with bearings or bushings. Devices with bushings are much cheaper than fans with bearings.

Forced-draft fans installed in the bathroom can operate either from a light switch or have a separate power point. Also, device manufacturers offer fans with built-in humidity sensors. In this case, the system starts when the humidity in the room reaches a certain level. There are also models that are equipped with motion sensors that allow you to activate air circulation when a person enters the room.

Basement ventilation

For ventilation of the basement, you can limit yourself to installing several holes in the basement of the house. Openings should be located in opposite parts of the room. In addition, the holes should be equipped with special nets or grilles.

This type of ventilation is quite simple in its organization, but like the whole natural ventilation system, it is directly dependent on weather conditions.

A more effective method is a system in which two pipes are used, 8–15 cm wide. In this case, the supply duct is mounted so that the lower part of the pipe is located at a height of 20–40 cm from the floor. The upper end must be fixed on the street so that the gap to the ground is 40-60 cm.

The lower end of the exhaust pipe is mounted directly under the ceiling, and the outer part through the floors is led out to the roof and fixed 30-60 cm from it.

How to make a duct box

Some duct models do not fit into the overall design of the room. The way out of this situation is to hide the channel in a special box. Learn more

According to the material of manufacture, decorative designs are:

• plastic;
• wooden;
• steel;
• made of MDF, particleboard or drywall.

However, during the installation of the box, it is taken into account that it will be constantly exposed to burning, fat and other by-products that occur during cooking. It follows that the structure should be washed and cleaned well. Only in this case, the decorative box will fit into the overall design of the room.

Video: how to install a hood and ventilation through the wall in a private (including wooden) house do-it-yourself

Ventilation, both forced and natural, will perform its function only if the entire system is organized correctly. And for this it is necessary to take into account the size of the room and the climatic conditions in which the system will work.