Concrete is called artificial stone for its high strength. Of particular difficulty for drilling is heavy concrete, which includes a large natural filler - crushed stone or gravel.
Why a drill does not drill concrete: reasons
The content of the article
- Why a drill does not drill concrete: reasons
- What should be a drill
- How to choose the right drill
- How to prepare the surface before work
It was concrete that made the structures that were the basis for the construction of panel houses of the Khrushchev built. These houses today remain the main type of housing in many cities of Russia.
Modern multi-storey buildings are built primarily by monolithic-frame technology, when the reinforcing frame of the building is first created, which is then poured with the same heavy concrete. It also includes: fine aggregate - sand, astringent - cement and water. The strength of the material depends on the quality of all components and the amount of cement.
Reference! A feature of concrete is a rapid increase in strength over 28 days, and then a slow set over a number of years.
Therefore, almost all urban residents face the problem of drilling holes in concrete.
What should be a drill
For drilling holes in concrete, the best tool is considered to be a perforator, which was designed to work with especially durable surfaces. It has a higher power and shock function compared to a conventional drill, which makes work easier. The maximum hole diameter is 120 mm.
Attention! For work with lightweight cellular concrete of a porous structure, a hammerless drill or screwdriver should be used.
When drilling holes of small diameter with a depth of 10-12 mm, you can use an impact drill, which can easily cope with this task. In shock-free models, when working with concrete, the cartridge and nozzle become unusable very quickly. The maximum hole diameter when working with a drill is 13 mm.
In addition to perforators in professional construction for large-diameter holes in walls, significant thicknesses are used drills with diamond crowns equipped with a water cooling system and clamping device. The resulting holes are of perfect quality, and all the rubbish is a cut out concrete cylinder. Such an expensive option is not practical for home use.
How to choose the right drill
For effective work, the correct drill should be selected. The usual, falling on crushed stone or reinforcement, instantly dulls.
Drills are suitable for concrete structures:
- With a winning tip - the most budgetary and sought-after option for domestic use. It works subject to the shock function. They have an SDS tail for installation in a drill with a keyless chuck. When working with porcelain stoneware, the victorious tips blunt after drilling 1-2 holes.
- Diamond coated is the best option. They can work without a shock function, the cost is an order of magnitude higher than the winning ones. More often used by professional craftsmen when a large number of holes are needed.
Diamond crowns - circular nozzles for holes of large diameters of 10-120 mm, for example, under a socket or pipe. To work with a perforator or hammer drill, it is necessary to choose a diamond crown with a center drill, which will prevent it from slipping. The crown edge has an abrasive structure.
Reference! A feature of diamond crowns is considered to be reinforced concrete drilling without consequences for the integrity of the crown when meeting with reinforcement.
Tungsten crowns - identical in design to diamond, but with a more modest cost. Suitable also for concrete walls.
How to prepare the surface before work
First, it is necessary to clearly identify and mark with a construction pencil or a small indentation (slowly drilling it in shock-free mode) the place of the future hole. A small recess facilitates the start of work, preventing the nozzle from slipping.
Important! First you need to make sure that electric cables, water supply, sewage or heating pipes do not pass in the radius of the drill.
After checking the condition of the punch and the integrity of the nozzle, perform the following operations:
- Insert the drill into the chuck until it clicks.
- Bring the perforator perpendicular to the wall, begin to carefully drill at low speeds, slightly pressing on the tool.
- Gradually increase speed and go into shock mode. For low-power equipment, the operating time should not exceed 10-12 minutes. During long-term operation, the drill should be periodically moistened in water to avoid its deformation, and the motor should be protected from overheating, taking breaks to cool it.
- A stuck drill can be pulled out with a smaller nozzle, increasing the diameter of the hole around the stuck tip.
Concrete dust resulting from drilling is easily collected with a vacuum cleaner.