Do-it-yourself washing machine bearing replacement at home

If your washing machine has a bearing buzzing or just crumbled, then its replacement is necessary so that the technician can continue to work. If this is not done, the drum will begin to sway and other parts of the machine will deteriorate in the future. If you do not change the bearing in a timely manner, then the use of such a machine can provoke unpleasant consequences that will force you to change the technique to another.

If you decide to replace, then you have two options:

1. Calling a repairman and entrusting the case to a specialist is a more practical option, since all the work will be done correctly (subject to the professionalism of the master) and in the shortest terms.
2. If the cost of repair work turned out to be high for you, then this work can be done independently.

How to replace a bearing in a washing machine? In this article, we will take a step-by-step look at all the stages of self-repair work.

Preparing for repair

Do you need a washing machine repair, bearing replacement? Before proceeding directly to the repair work of the washing machine, it is necessary to prepare the obligatory tools and spare parts that we will change.

From the tool we need:

1. Ordinary metal hammer.
2. Open-end wrench set of various sizes.
3. Pliers.
4. Metal pin.
5. Screwdrivers.
6. Silicone.
7. Special water resistant grease.

A camera or a mobile phone with a camera - in the process of disassembling the washing machine, we advise you to remove all parts in order to re-assemble the equipment correctly.

Required spare parts

From spare parts for repair work, we need 2 bearings and an oil seal. You can first disassemble the washing machine, remove the old bearings and the oil seal, and then use the indicated numbers to find the originals or analogues on the Internet. Or find shops that sell spare parts for washing machines, and they will find the parts you need by brand of technology.

Try to get unique spare parts, they will guarantee you excellent machine performance. Also, only purchase special bearings for washing machines.

Dismantling the washing machine

First, we need to remove the upper part - the cover. It is secured with 2 screws. After that, as you unscrewed them, you should slide the cover to the side of the back of the case. And we remove it. Next, we completely remove the machine's dispenser. In some modifications, to remove the dispenser, we need to press the latch. Then you need to remove the control panel. To do this, you need to unscrew the fixing screws. The panel can be carefully laid on the side of the enclosure.

We open the hatch and remove the outer collar of the cuff. They are different. Separate parts are knocked down with round-nose pliers. Others can be removed with a screwdriver. If the clamp is removed, we need to separate the cuff from the front of the machine and tuck it into the vehicle. So she will not interfere with us.

We need to unscrew the lock. It is secured with two screws. We twist them, and, putting our hand between the cuff and the wall, we separate the locking device from the machine wall inside. We remove all other components of the mount and remove the front part of the case itself. But first, let's remove the back part as well.

Then we disconnect the dispenser with a pipe from the machine. To do this, you need to remove everything that interferes with work and loosen the clamp. Next, we need to remove the counterweight (if it is in front). If he is behind, then we will also get to him and will certainly remove. Typically, the counterweight is bolted. We will unscrew these bolts with a screwdriver.

We are getting close to the heating element. In many models, it is located behind, in some in front. Before removing it, we will take a photo of the wires so that afterwards we will connect everything in the right order. We remove the fasteners of the heating element. More often it is attached to 1 nut. We loosen it and squeeze out the screw, and with a flat object (for example, a screwdriver) hook up and get the heating element.

After that, we remove the pipe, which is fixed to the tank. We already know how to disconnect the clamps. We remove the wires that can be fixed to the tank.

At the back, we remove the electric drive belt and disconnect the wiring connector leading to the machine's engine. Next, we twist the screws that secure the motor. We take out the motor by pulling it in our direction.

Then we twist the screws that secure the shock absorbers and separate the lower parts from the car. It remains only to remove the springs, and the tank can be taken out. All this should be done carefully so as not to drop the tank.

Removing the tank

First, you should get rid of the top bar. The first step is to inspect the back of the equipment and find the screws that strengthen the water supply valve. Having unscrewed the fasteners, you can start twisting the panel bolts. Take your time to remove, because you still need to carefully disconnect the wires and pipes. When everything is disconnected, you can remove the panel as well.

We proceed to disconnect the drain pipe. It is connected to the tank of the machine with a clamp. We untwist it and disconnect the pipe.

In different models, it can be placed in front or behind the structure. If your electric heater (TEN) is located at the back, you will need to remove the back wall. Carefully disconnect all connections suitable for the heater. Don't forget to photograph the starting position. At this point, the entire wiring must be disconnected. Please note that in some areas it can be fixed to parts of the machine using various fasteners. Having disconnected all the wires, we take them out.

Getting rid of counterweights. This should be done so that the tank is not too heavy. Unscrew them carefully. Then you need to disconnect the water level sensor. The shock absorbers can be detached. Use a wrench to unscrew the bolts holding the parts. For work, it is most correct to use a nozzle with an extension cord.

Keep in mind that the tank itself is lightweight, therefore, when removing it, you do not need to apply special efforts. Put one hand into the tank and lift it up. Release the tank from the springs that hold it. After that it can be taken out.

The final step is to remove the belt, unscrew the motor and shock absorbers. The completely emptied reservoir can be disassembled to change the bearing.

Disassembly

The tank has been released and you will be able to notice that it is in two halves. These halves are fastened together along the entire perimeter of the joint. The fasteners depend on the model of the machine, they can be bolts or special latches. You need to split the halves. We act depending on the type of mounts. By separating the front part, you can see the presence of a dirty coating. Before assembling, you need to clean everything. On the back half, you will notice a drum. Actually, he is the main goal.

This stage can be called the most responsible, it requires high attention and caution:

1. We need to carefully detach the drum. First of all, we remove the pulley. Simply unscrew the fasteners holding this part and remove the pulley from the axle. After removing the pulley, screw the bolt back. In this case, it is necessary not to spoil the rod during subsequent work.
2. We take the hammer. But proceed carefully. We try to gradually knock out the shaft. If these manipulations are useless and the shaft remains in place, replace the bolt. As soon as the rod is aligned with the top of the bolt, remove it and remove the drum.
3. We proceed to inspect the sleeve and shaft. Often, in case of untimely repairs, these spare parts can wear out so much that it is necessary to replace the cross. It is necessary to correctly assess the condition of the shaft, for this it must be wiped with a dry cloth. After that, carefully examine it from all edges for the presence of development. To ensure the integrity of the shaft, put another bearing on it and determine if there is any play. If you nevertheless find a flaw, change the shaft with the crosspiece without hesitation.
4. Examine the sleeve. It is located on the shaft and is needed for the oil seal. In addition, the bushing should not show signs of strong wear and automatic damage. If you identify pronounced transverse grooves, the part will no longer be able to perform its functions. An oil seal pulled over such a bushing will not be able to protect the bearing from water, and the repair will need to be carried out again.

Replacing bearings

To remove installed bearings, you need to remove the oil seal. It is removed very simply. Using a straight screwdriver, pick up the oil seal and remove it. Then we take the pin in our hands. With its help, we will knock out these elements. Having installed the pin to the bearing, we hit it with a hammer. Then we do the opposite. The blows should be crosswise, according to the 4 edges of the part. In a similar simple way, you can knock out 2 bearings.

But know that the smaller bearing needs to be knocked out inside, and the larger one is outside the tank. In addition, when performing work, show maximum accuracy so as not to damage the product. It is most correct to knock out by resting the part on one knee.

Then pay attention to the back wall and the places where the bearings are located. These areas should be free of dirt and debris. They don't just need to be cleanedand polish to shine. Only in this case you will not need to repair the car again for a long time.

Now is the time to unpack the purchased bearings. We take the one that is smaller and nailed it in place of the removed one. We apply the pin to the opposite edges, and hammer it in with light blows of a hammer. To determine if a component is seated in its place, listen carefully to the sounds on each hit. If the element fits correctly, the sound will be louder.

We carry out a similar procedure to change the large bearing. Then we start installing a new oil seal. It should be treated with a lubricant, only then the gland can be put in place. Experts recommend using special lubricants designed for machines. However, such lubricants can not always be found in free implementation. If no lubricant has been found, you can use lithol grade 24. This material is sold in car dealerships.

The final stage

The main part of the renovation work has been completed. You have changed the necessary component, it's time to return everything to its place. The first step is to lubricate and place the sleeve in place. Next, we combine the halves of the container. So that the tank does not lose its own tightness after installation, it is more correct to change the O-ring. If you do not have one, seal the abutting edges with sealant and combine the container. Following the photo or instructions, in the reverse order we assemble the washing machine.

For many of us today, a washing machine is an indispensable part of housekeeping. The machine does a significant part of the work for us, this is convenience and extra minutes of rest. However, in order for your equipment not to fail at the wrong time, it is recommended to carry out timely service. This will guarantee a long and trouble-free operation of the machine.