Correct check of the heating element of the washing machine with a multimeter: how to ring the circuit, check for breakdown and leakage

When the washing machine does not heat the water or does not start the washing program at all, giving an error on the display, most often it is a failed heating element. And also in this case, the technique can be shocked, and if an RCD is installed, protection is triggered. The culprits for this are voltage drops, hard water and wear. Only checking the heating element of the washing machine with a multimeter of any model will help to make sure of the malfunction.

Heater breakdown error codes: in Samsung - E5 or E6, in Indesit - F07, in Lg - NOT, in Bosch - F19, in Candy - E05, in some - the "no water heating" indicator is on.

Searching for a heating element in the washer

First you need to find a heater. But before doing this, be sure to disconnect the power from the outlet.

In many models (Indesit, Lg and Ariston), the heating element is located at the back

and only in Bosch and Siemens - in the front. If there is a large lid twisted with hardware on the back of the washing machine, then it is probably there. To get to it, just unscrew the bolts and remove the cover.

Another way to determine the location of the heating element is to look into the car from below, gently turning it on its side.

Checking the heater with a tester

The instruction on how to check the heating element of a washing machine with a multimeter correctly is quite simple. To do this, first remove all wires from its terminals for the reliability of the instrument readings. You do not need to twist and get anything. The check is done in 3 steps:

First step

We set the resistance measurement mode on the multimeter in the 200 Ohm range. And before checking the heating element with a tester, we short-circuit the probes together to make sure that it is accurate. The reading on the display should be 0 or close to zero. Next, we touch one probe to the left terminal of the heating element, and the second to the right terminal. The middle terminal (or fixing bolt) is always ground. We do not touch it yet, as we are checking the integrity of the heating coil.

If the heating element is serviceable, then the multimeter will show resistance in the region of several tens of ohms. For example, if the power of the heater is 1900 W (written on the heating element body and in the instructions for the machine), then its resistance should be ± 25.47 Ohm.

This is calculated using a simple formula:

R = U² / P, where "U" is the voltage in the network (220 V), and "P" is the power of the heating element (in our example, 1900 W).

In the same way, you can determine the power of the heating element, knowing only its resistance and mains voltage:

P = U² / R.

In the case when the device shows "1" (infinity), this means a break in the coil inside the heater. And if the screen displays "0", then the heating element is closed (short-circuited). In both cases, you will have to buy a new heater. Its power and dimensions must be identical.

Advice! Before buying, be sure to pay attention to whether there is a thermal sensor in the heating element. The fact is that in some models of washing machines it is installed separately, and in others - in the heating element body. Therefore, it is important to buy the same one (with or without a hole for a thermal sensor).

It is advisable to rearrange the native thermal sensor from the old one to the new heating element, if it is serviceable. Or buy with the same resistance. It is usually written on the side of the plastic socket. Using a multimeter, you can make sure that it is working properly.by measuring the resistance on two contacts. If you dip the temperature sensor in hot water, then it should change its resistance.

Second step

We set the multimeter in the mode of continuity of diodes or "buzzer". When the probes are closed, a working device will squeak, and zeros will be displayed on the screen, which indicates the presence of a circuit.

We touch with one probe to the right or left terminal of the heating element, and with the second probe to the body or the grounding terminal. This is done in order to determine if the heater is punching into the housing. If the multimeter beeps, it punches. Teng needs to be replaced, because of this, the machine may be shocked or not start at all. If the tester is silent, then everything is in order.

Final actions

Set the device to the resistance measurement mode at the highest range available. Ideally, use a megohmmeter. Do the same as in the previous point. Try not to touch the test leads of the device with your hands during the measurement.

This is necessary to test the insulation of the heating element for leakage current. After all, if there is even the slightest microcrack through which the current leaves, then very soon it will become larger and the heater will break through. In addition, if an RCD is installed in the house, it will constantly work and turn off the power grid.

If the readings of the device are less than 2 mOhm, then it is better to replace the heating element immediately. The permissible insulation resistance is considered to be more than 2 mΩ. It is recommended to ring the chain before buying a new heating element. and check its insulation resistance in the store.

Checking the heating element without a device

When there is no way to check the teng with a multimeter, then you can approximately determine its serviceability using:

• Visual inspection: for this you will have to unscrew and remove the heating element from the washing machine. If there are obvious cracks, black burnt spots, bumps and rough scratches, feel free to change the part. Sometimes it is difficult to determine the condition of the heater due to scale deposits. Remove it by soaking the teng in a solution of vinegar or citric acid for 5-6 hours. By the way, for the same reason, the washing machine heats up the water longer. In addition, due to deposits, the teng overheats inside and quickly burns out.
• Indicator screwdriver with dial tone (battery-operated): with such a screwdriver, the breakdown in the heater cannot be accurately determined, but the circuit can be checked. To do this, touch the first terminal with your finger, and with a screwdriver sting to the second supply terminal. In this case, you need to pinch the metal patch on the end of the screwdriver with the finger of your other hand. If the indicator lights up, then there is a circuit and the heating coil in the heating element is intact. You can make a similar indicator tester yourself.
• Control lamp: this is used by electricians. Usually they also do it on their own. To use, knowledge and experience in handling electricity is required. Otherwise, don't risk it. To check, it is necessary to apply zero to one contact of the heater from the network, and to the second - a phase through the lamp. If there is no break in the heating element, the light will be on.

Still, a multimeter or megohmmeter is preferable, since it is only with them that you can check the ten on the washing machine with the greatest accuracy. By the way, the same methods are applicable for checking heaters in boilers, irons, electric kettles, etc.