Energy-saving lamp: how to repair it yourself and disassemble, possible malfunctions

Modern energy efficient light bulbs help not only save electricity consumption, but also allow you to choose a design with a more suitable color spectrum. Repairing an energy-saving lamp with your own hands is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. Even a novice master can cope with this task. It is enough to understand the structure of the product and the rules for its parsing, as well as to study possible problems and options for their solution.

Product design

The features of energy-saving lamps are due to the significant advantages that appear during operation. In addition to saving electricity and reducing the load on the household network, such light sources are characterized by a long service life. In addition, a small amount of heat is generated during operation, and a uniform glow that is convenient for the eyes is formed.

All lamps can be divided into several types depending on the peculiarities of the bulb manufacturing.

Some of them:

1. W - barrel flask with a special design.
2. R - reflex.
3. W - spherical.
4. P - "Shirt" body.
5. U - classic barreled.
6. S - spiral.
7. C - has a special candle cap.
8. M - small-sized.
9. F - with a special spiral design.

The structure of any energy-saving product of domestic and foreign production is the same. All lamps are made up of several elements:

1. Gas discharge tube, which is needed to emit a stream of light.
2. A case with a start-up and power supply circuit. Scientifically, this is called electronic ballast.

In the area of ​​the lamp base, the main parts are presented in the form of power contacts and classic threads, which are screwed into the socket. A tubular flask is equipped with electrodes and is sealed on both sides. Its inner part is treated with a special phosphor, and inside the container is a mixture based on mercury vapor and an inert gas. In the process of ionization of the composition, the included lamp shines.

It is important to note that regardless of the type, such units are not intended for installation in lighting fixtures equipped with dimmers or dimmers.

Parsing rules

If a light bulb stops shining, this does not always mean that it needs to be thrown away. Repairability is considered to be an advantageous difference between such designs and classic incandescent lamps. To eliminate various defects, the first step is to disassemble the energy-saving lamp. Step by step guide:

1. First, you need to gently pry off the product lid in the areas marked with arrows using a thin screwdriver.
2. If the latches have lost their function, you need to measure the diameter of the product using a vernier caliper. Then, with a small disk cutter, make several cuts from the outer part of the case at a distance of 1.5 cm from each other, and then release the clamps with a screwdriver.

The cutter will help to effectively cope with such devices that have been in operation for a long time, and the plastic on the body has already dried up. After repair, the structure can be reassembled in the reverse order. For fixing the elements, it is permissible to use a silicone-based sealant or any adhesive for plastic.

Fault definition

The disassembled device must be carefully inspected. Particular attention should be paid to the working board, and then to other elements. To separate the base from the general system, unwind the wire located on the rod, and then untie the filaments and release the board.

The most common causes of breakdown are the burning of the main parts in the energy-saving lamp circuit or the burnout of the spiral.

Flask and fuse check

The flask may break or the spirals will burn out in it. In both cases, the part can be replaced with the same or less power if there is a product in the house with a whole bulb, but with a burned-out circuit board.

In addition, it is possible to repair an energy-saving lamp with a burnt-out coil. In this case, it is assumed that one of the two elements remains working. It is necessary to short-circuit the terminals of the failed part, then the load will be carried out on the remaining functioning element, and the product will serve for some more time.

If the bulb is intact, the fuse may be the problem. First of all, it is necessary to check its performance - one end is connected to the board, and the other is fixed by soldering to the central contact in the base.

Checking the functionality of parts is quite simple with a multimeter. For this, a continuity mode or resistance measurement with a value of 200 ohms is used. The probes of the device must be attached to the central part of the base and the soldering point on the board. If the element is working, the instrument values ​​should be within 10 ohms. When the multimeter reads one, this indicates an open circuit. A defective fuse must be carefully cut off. in the area of ​​the resistor, and then solder the new part.

Diodes and generator

If the fuse is found to be good, the diode bridge should be checked for proper operation. These manipulations can also be carried out using a multimeter in the dial mode. There is no need to solder the elements from the board. The red wire must be connected to the anode, therefore the black wire must be connected to the cathode. In this case, the readings of the device should be at the level of 500. When connected in reverse, the values ​​increase to 1500. If the display shows the number 1, this indicates a break in the diode. When, when changing conductors, the numbers on the screen are from 0 to 500, this means that the diodes are broken.

Manufacturers of high-quality products often place a special filtering element against electromagnetic interference in front of the diode bridge. Basically, it is a choke with a winding for phase and zero, and there are also several capacitors. This element is needed to prevent interference from entering the power supply network during operation of the generator. The latter distort the operation of various devices - radios, televisions, etc. However, such units are often absent in cheap Chinese products. If the filter piece is in place, its windings must be complete and open.

Another important element is the generator, which is built on the basis of a transformer. The latter consists of three windings, twisted in several turns (the base of the generator). The windings are connected according to a special scheme, due to which the opening and closing of the transistors is carried out alternately.

There are often two transistors, but there are systems with one unit. The main problem is that the generator cannot be checked with instruments. This is due to the fact that it very rarely breaks down, but in the event of a malfunction, it must be replaced with a working element.

Testing transistors

The transformer windings transmit control pulses to the transistor, a resistor is installed between the base and the winding, and the current additionally limits the resistor to a few ohms. If a blackened part is found on the board in the emitter circuit, there is a chance that the transistor has also failed. It can be checked directly on the board (for a short circuit), but it is recommended to unsolder it and test it in the diode test mode.

In low-power structures, elements marked 13001 are often used, in more powerful systems above 10 watts - 13003. They are structured NPN. This means that in the test mode on a multimeter, they will ring out as two diodes, switched by the anodes at the output.

To check, you need to connect the red wire to the base, and connect the black wire alternately to the collector and emitter. In this case, the value should be within 500. When connected, on the contrary, indicators of about 1500 are displayed. If the probes are placed on the emitter and collector, regardless of polarity, the device should give an open circuit.

If the values ​​coincide with the above, this indicates the operability of the transistor, and when the system at one of the first two stages indicates a break, this indicates the exit of the part from building.

Resistors and capacitors

In energy-saving light bulbs, an electrolytic capacitor is placed between the generator and the diode bridge. This element is necessary in order to smooth out ripple. Its capacity ranges from several units to tens of microfarads. The top cover contains stamping, which is necessary to avoid an explosion. It should be noted that a cracked or swollen capacitor is not working.

When there are no visible violations on the case, you need to ring the system. There must be no short circuit between the plates. If the multimeter is equipped with a sound function, then at first it will beep, and as the cell is charged, it will die down.

There can be 4 types of breakdowns:

• closure;
• bloating;
• breakage;
• loss of capacity.

Another way to diagnose both the capacitor and the diode bridge is to check the voltage. The indicators should be at the level of 310 V with a voltage of 220 V. It is important to note that when replacing a part, be sure to remember the polarity. Electrolytic structures have a minus mark. If you carry out an incorrect soldering, an active reaction will begin with the release of heat, and then the housing will swell and explode.

When the lamp is turned on, the capacitor is charged. At this moment, a large current flows through the diode bridge. Diodes are heavily loaded prior to current surges. This often becomes the reason that over time, elements can fail. In some units, manufacturers install a special current-limiting resistor that reduces the current and acts as a fuse. More expensive products are equipped with large filter capacitors.

Repair process

Cheap models of ESL are usually assembled without soldering - by using special fixing latches. With such an assembly, it is quite natural that during the operation of the lighting element, the contacts burn out or oxidize. In such situations, the conductors must be stripped and then carefully soldered. Depending on the specific breakdown, you can independently perform the following repair measures:

1. Remove non-working parts and solder to connect new resistors. To do this, you need to warm up both sides of the board with a soldering iron at the same time, and move the part with a small screwdriver. Manipulation should be carried out as quickly as possible to prevent other elements from being disconnected from the board. Excess solder must be removed.
2. Dismantle the failed transistors and connect new ones. The leads of the faulty part should be carefully cut, and in their place the contacts of the working new part should be soldered. When replacing this product during ballast repair, remember that the operating values ​​of the transistor are directly proportional to the power of the light bulb.
3. Remove and replace the fuse. The output of the removed part must match the dimensions of the new one. If so, you need to solder it to the terminal in the base. Insulate the connection point with a heat-shrinkable tube, and fix the free end on the board.
4. If the spirals in the device are burnt out, the lamps may flash strongly and turn on for a long time. Here it is required to replace the ignition thread with a new one with similar resistance values. Practice shows that it is possible to significantly extend the operating life of the lamp filaments by making holes for ventilation in the product case. They will reduce temperature readings during operation.

It is quite possible to repair energy-saving lamps with your own hands. This may only seem like a daunting task at first. However, having figured it out once, an economical owner will be able to extend the life of burnt products in the future, thereby significantly saving the family's budget.