Kitchen socket for the stove: the correct layout of the power points at the right height

For the convenience of using mobile and stationary equipment, you need to make the correct location of the outlet in the kitchen for the stove and other equipment. There are both safety and aesthetics standards for the placement of equipment connection points. The products must have free access so that in the event of a short circuit, for example, a microwave oven, it can be turned off without hindrance.

Design rules

Initially, before installing the electrical wires, a sketch of the kitchen set is drawn. It depicts the location of electrical appliances, and also creates a diagram of outlets with convenient placement on the walls of the room. Owners often order headsets from specialists. In such a situation, it is better to agree on a work plan with them. They will advise on the best places where it is preferable to install points for connecting equipment.

If the work is done by hand, and kitchen utensils were purchased not by order, but in a store, then you should ask for help from an electrician friend who will tell you how many sockets you need in the kitchen and in which parts of them mount. Firstly, he knows all the electrical safety standards, and secondly, he will tell you which products are better to buy and how to distribute the wires around the room with the subsequent connection of the entire system to the meter.

If such opportunities are not available, then you will have to study the basic information and organize the work on your own. There is one big plus here: the experience gained with a similar case may come in handy in the future.

Product Installation Requirements

At the initial stage of making a design project, you need to study all the rules that must be strictly adhered to. Here's what the pros advise:

1. The first step is to take care of the easily accessible operation of the outlets. The number of connection points should have a margin of 25% of the total. If the kitchen has 8 units of products, then it is better to equip the room with ten points.
2. The distribution of points must comply with all government codes and standards. For example, for individual powerful equipment, separate outlets are installed without overloading them with tees.
3. It is strictly forbidden to mount the products in the cooking area, over sinks, behind bedside tables, cupboards and in similar places where there are flammable materials or water.
4. The connected electrical appliances must be combined in power with the connection lines. The material from which they are made must meet all fire and electrical safety requirements.
5. The distance between the supply points and the stationary kitchen equipment is no more than 100 cm. For portable devices, this distance should be 150 cm.
6. In the most dangerous places, sockets with protective covers should be installed to protect them from moisture and grease drops.

The main condition for installing points is the presence of two easily accessible sockets.

Varieties of models

Manufacturers produce 4 types of products with individual benefits. List of models that you can equip your kitchen with:

1. Built-in. Such points are mounted in the walls. They provide increased electrical safety, have an attractive appearance and reliable fastening. There are also devices that are installed in the countertop, and operate them by opening the furniture and lifting the protective panel.
2. Retractable. This category of products is the most demanded, since the boxes are built into the worktop in such a way that when you press a special button in the kitchen furniture, the outlet vertically opens constructions.
3. Overhead. They are installed in a few minutes, and the work process itself is so easy that even a beginner can handle it. Usually such models are used for open-type wiring.
4. Portable. This is an ordinary extension cord or carrier. The product can be equipped with one or several sockets. A long wire allows connecting devices anywhere in the room.

It should be borne in mind that retractable and built-in models are more expensive than invoice and portable ones.

Necessary calculation and connection points

Calculating the number of outlets is as easy as shelling pears. It is enough to count the number of electrical appliances and other household appliances that will fit in the kitchen. Mandatory connection points taken into account in the calculation:

1. The main equipment is a refrigerator, washing machine, oven, dishwasher and hob.
2. You need to distribute boxes for connecting gadgets, laptops, chargers and mobile phones.
3. The number of outlets intended for powerful appliances in which the plug is constantly located (for example, a TV, an electric kettle, a microwave oven, a coffee machine and a multicooker) is calculated.
4. Points are provided to provide the hood with electricity.
5. If there is a backlight in the room, then sockets are installed for it.

Zonal placement of boxes is equally important. According to all the rules and standards, the height of the sockets in the kitchen should be like this:

1. At the bottom, points are usually set under the countertop at a height of 15 cm from the floor. They are used to operate electric stoves, washing machines, ovens, dishwashers and other energy-intensive appliances.
2. In the middle of the wall, products are mounted at a level of 100 cm from the floor so that the height of the sockets from the countertop in the kitchen is 20 cm. Low-power equipment, such as a microwave oven, is connected here.
3. On the top line, you can attach points, departing from the ceiling by 15 cm and from the hanging furniture (shelves and cabinet) by 10 cm. They are used for lamps and hoods. If the owner wants to install the backlight, then it is preferable to mount the LED strip behind a kitchen apron, behind the facade of which you can hide the power supply and wires.

This location of the sockets will meet all safety requirements.

Distribution of power points

Sockets for built-in kitchen appliances - a washing machine, oven or dishwasher - are attached under the countertop. If there is a cutout in the wall under the cabinets or shelves, then it is advisable to hide the dots behind them. It is necessary to arrange sockets in the kitchen in the following way:

1. To avoid unnecessary work on cutting out the required part of the wall, you should mount the boxes 10 cm from the floor under the legs of the kitchen set. Often, apartment owners install a microwave oven or oven on pencil cases or tall cabinets. In this case, it is preferable to equip the wall with sockets near the equipment, but only below the equipment or slightly above the table top.
2. If extension cords are used, then overhanging wires should not fall into places where there is a threat of breaking them (in doors equipped with closers, drawers in cabinets, etc.). ). It is advisable to attach the carrier at the bottom at a distance of 10 cm from the floor.
3. For refrigerators, it is better to install the sockets at a height of 100 cm. If you place a point behind the device, then its operation becomes difficult, so it must be placed on the side of it. You can solve the problem by pushing the refrigerator forward, but the aesthetic appearance of the kitchen will be disrupted, since the unit will go beyond the line on which other household appliances and furniture are located.
4. Some owners place boxes in the corner behind the refrigerator, but this will make it difficult to turn off electrical equipment in the event of a thunderstorm. In addition, the device is not considered so powerful as to allocate an ordinary outlet for it, and the use of a tee will further complicate operation.

In order not to install power points for the hood and not to try to hide the cable behind it, it is better to connect the equipment directly to the electrical network and, if possible, install a small switch. As you can see, the location of the power points to the equipment requires careful analysis and accurate circuitry.

It is not necessary for beginners to do this business and fix the boxes by "eye" in the process of work.

Error correction

Often, beginners who are engaged in self-installation of outlets have inaccuracies in the calculations. Because of this, it becomes difficult to transfer them to other places in the kitchen. From the point of view of electrical safety, it is not recommended to engage in building up wires by rearranging the original outlet to a different place. It is necessary to mount another wire along the ceiling from the electrical panel and hide it in the finish.

The direction of the cable must not be allowed to be curved, it must be located strictly along one line. If the owner wishes to equip the ceiling with additional facing materials, then due to this error you can get a screw into a curved electrical wire, as a result of which the tool will burn out, and a short circuit will occur systems. The wiring diagram drawn on paper should not be thrown away; it will help to avoid similar unpleasant situations in the future.

Many people involved in electrical wiring do not always adhere to the rules and mount the wire from the old point, while choosing the shortest path. For work, you will need a stroborez, a perforator and a "crown" nozzle, due to which a recess is made to the size of the box. Instead of an apparatus for creating strobes, a perforator with a "shovel" attachment is used, and the mode is set on a bump stop.

A line is drawn from the original power supply product with a pencil to the intended installation site of the outlet. Then, with an interval of 1-2 cm, holes are drilled in the wall 1 cm deep. The nozzle is changed on the tool and the crumbled pieces of trim are hollowed out. This method will help to avoid cracks in the coating near the work area.

For a socket, draw a circle with a pencil or chalk. Now, instead of the scapula, a “crown” nozzle is placed. Deepening is made to the thickness of the product box. If it is not possible to drill, then holes are made with a drill along the contour of the intended circle and cement is knocked down with a spatula in a circle. The old point is removed, the box is left in place, the wires are released. Then you need to screw on the terminal adapter.

New wiring is laid in the strobe and pushed through the hole in the socket, which is located on the side. The two cables are connected with a terminal and the screws are tightened securely. In the newly made recess, a box is mounted, a cable is threaded through it so that it sticks out a little from the device.

After that, the strobe is treated with water to remove dust. Stir the cement mortar. With a spatula, apply the mixture to the groove and level. When the coating dries a little, it is rubbed with a piece of foam. It remains to connect the power point to the box and attach a wire to it.