LED strips are a modern way of lighting that is often used as a functional decoration. But in the process of their installation, it is necessary to take into account the heat removal from the structures. For this, boxes for LED strips are used - protective mechanisms, which are also called filters.
Content
- Application features
- Filter types
-
The nuances of production and installation
- Manufacturing options
- Helpful hints
- Installation instructions
- Diffusers and caps
- Selection Tips
Application features

LED strips are selected based on the location of the mounted backlight, lamp power, preferred service life and aesthetics of the entire structure. The units heat up during operation. The faster this happens, the more the diodes wear out, so the brightness of the luminaire may be less than the warranty period. A safe, durable and beautiful installation option is the installation of a diode tape on a profile.
Powerful crystals of SMD 5730 and SMD 3014 lamps simply need to remove excess radiated heat. This can be achieved with metal boxes. A profile is a guide structure attached to a surface. A diode tape with a diffuser is inserted into the installation. A feature of this installation is the solid fixation of the printed circuit board.
Filter types
There are several types of LED boxes used in residential and office buildings. These include:
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Overhead. They are fixed on top of the surface or tapes are hung on them.
- Corner. These structures direct the light at a 45-degree angle. It is convenient to install profiles between cabinets and walls.
- Mortise. They are characterized by lateral protrusions that cover irregularities and chips along the edges of the groove into which the structures are inserted. The recess is specially made on the surface so that the submerged profile is flush with the entire installation.
Corner aluminum boxes are available with removable diffusers. LEDs of these models are characterized by a high degree of brightness, therefore additional eye protection is required. About 25% of the emitted luminous flux is scattered. This must be taken into account when designing indoor lighting using these types of protective boxes.
Designers often prefer to use precisely built-in profile models for LEDs, since with with their help, you can easily connect different materials, for example, drywall with particle boards. Mortise boxes are practical designs for kitchens.
Cover profiles can be installed on any surface using adhesives or self-tapping screws. For example, an overhead plastic profile for an LED strip is very flexible; it can be attached circumferentially to a curved surface in an arch.
The nuances of production and installation
Before installing the profiles, you must select the material from which they are made. In closets, saunas, garages and other utility rooms, the installation of beautiful boxes is not always required. In these places, you can use the simplest and cheapest designs.
Manufacturing options
You can apply the construction version of the profile, which is made of iron and is the most budgetary option. It is necessary to choose a smooth design that does not have unnecessary perforation or corrugation. Building boxes have their advantages:
- galvanized;
- rustproof coating.

The average cost of such a profile is about 18 rubles per square meter, which is 20 times cheaper than an aluminum analogue. The quality of the iron box in terms of thermal conductivity, of course, is worse, but when installing structures of medium power, this will be enough.
Plastic profiles can be replaced with plastic cable ducts used for wiring. Such boxes are tightly closed with lids, the width of the units can be from 10 to 100 mm. The structures bend well, they are installed on uneven surfaces by mounting on flexible strips, which are then fastened with liquid nails. Glass products are considered to be real decorative elements.
Helpful hints
The main function of the LED box is heat removal, which should be carried out not only from the lower substrates, but also from the sides. An important parameter to consider when planning lighting is the surface area of the structure.
The higher the sides of the box, the better. When installing, keep free access for air in each side of the profile. In the process of mounting the overhead box, at least one surface (bottom) will be isolated, therefore, you need make special stands (factory fastening clips made of plastic or metal) to provide air ventilation under substrate. In this case, there must be at least 3 mm between the wall and the bottom surface.
Only units with higher sides (from about 18 mm) can be fastened tightly. In removable structures, the base is first mounted to the surface, and then the profile is inserted. Between the parts and make the necessary gap.

The sides also cannot be mounted close to other surfaces. In low settings, you will have to remove the back cover. In this case, the connectors are inserted only from the side, having previously grinded off some part with a file.
The advantages of tall boxes include:
- better cooling of diodes;
- the possibility of placing special connectors for connecting tape segments.
Overhead profiles are simpler and more functional to install, but for cut-in boxes, all three surfaces will be insulated during installation. Only the open part of the protruding side (upper), which remains at the same time, is not always enough for high-quality operation. Then it is necessary to select models with wide top platforms.
For very powerful LED strips (SMD 5050, 5730, 5630), it is not recommended to use corner boxes as a heat sink. Constructions are more decorative.
Installation instructions
Each type of profile is mounted in a different way. The most popular hinged box can be attached in several ways:
- double-sided tape;
- simple glue;
- screws or dowels.
Before proceeding with the installation, select the necessary tools. For example, for installation using self-tapping screws, you will need:
- drill with a diameter of 3 mm;
- hacksaw for metal;
- two-core wire;
- screws (size 10x1.5 mm);
- roulette;
- screwdriver or screwdriver.

When all the tools are available, the hanging boxes are prepared. Proceed according to the following instructions:
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Measure, using a tape measure, the distance at the installation site.
- Cut the profile to the desired length using a hacksaw.
- At the very base, holes are drilled with a diameter of 3 mm for self-tapping screws (size 3.5 mm). There are plugs in which mounting holes are already provided, so you need to check the design for their presence.
- The holes are made in increments of 100-200 mm. Each hole is punched out (processed under the heads of the screws) so that the tape does not peel off in the future.
- The substrate is mounted at the site of the future illumination.
- Measure the length of the LEDs along the length of the installed base, make a cut along the marks.
- A tape is glued to the protective layer of double-sided tape, a diffuser with a plug is placed.
- Insert the box into the attached base-substrate, neatly connect the wires to the power supply.
It is advisable to mount the corner profile on double-sided tape. The substrate must be degreased with a solvent (alcohol). Scotch tape is applied to both sides, cutting off the excess.
The surface is degreased again by sprinkling with water. In this case, the corner will not stick immediately and it will be possible to accurately fit the entire structure to the base. For reliable fastening, polyurethane glue is used together with tape. From the inside, stick the tape, insert the lens and close with plugs.
There are nuances when installing mortise profiles. First, a groove is formed, taking into account the dimensions of the box. Holes are drilled from the edge for the power wires, then the diode tape is glued, the diffuser is mounted and the plug is attached. Drive the structure into the connector.
Diffusers and caps
Special parts are selected for the protective profiles. Polycarbonate diffusers with high mechanical strength, which are not subject to destruction by ultraviolet radiation, are required. They are used to increase the area of illumination and improve the quality of the glow. Several types of diffusers are produced:
- transparent;
- semi-matt, light transmittance of which is 75%;
- internal, inserted into the grooves;
- opaque (milky) devices transmitting up to 60% of light;
- external, dressing over the sides.
End caps can be installed on the sides of the box as decorative structures. Holes are made in them for the output of wires. For the covert removal of the batteries, the boxes are recommended to be sawed from the end.
Selection Tips
Before installation, the functionality of the protective box must be taken into account. The following requirements are imposed on such a design:
- Practical overheating protection.
- Uniform light distribution.
- The ability to create design effects.
- Installation in hard-to-reach areas.
The assortment of protective boxes on the market is very large. For example, they produce models of various series:
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Micro - profiles with a minimum width and height.
- Line - with uniform diffusers.
- Double - with double-sided backlights.
- Comfort - with a volumetric glow.
- Power - with a wide band for creating additional lighting sources.
This is only a small part of the offered assortment. You can choose profiles with a parallel linear glow, protection against water and mechanical stress, as well as with a wide main backlight.
One of the best sellers is a thin Micro-Alu box with a flat plastic diffuser. This model costs only 250 rubles. Rand glass profiles for backlighting can be purchased for 550 rubles or more (depending on dimensions). Manufacturers offer an overhead Slim Ultra model for 260 rubles. Prizma-Alu corner boxes will cost the buyer at least 450 rubles. Step-Alu stepped designs are considered one of the most expensive, they cost around 3 thousand rubles.