How to insulate the ceiling in a bath correctly with your own hands? What's better?

If heat escapes through the walls or ceiling, the bath cannot be heated to the required temperature, so it will not be warm enough. In addition, the cold ceiling will create condensation of steam, as a result of which there is a high probability of the formation of painful microorganisms and fungi, which will certainly negatively affect human health, therefore ceiling insulation is in some way even more important than wall insulation and it is for these reasons that it should always be isolated from penetration air.

We will tell you about how and what to insulate the ceiling in the bath in the article.

How to insulate with your own hands?

To insulate the ceiling in the bath, you should prepare the following materials and tools:

• roulette;
• stapler (construction);
• hammer;
• nails;
• knife;
• construction scotch tape;
• saw;
• scissors;
• drill;
• boards with a thickness of at least 50 cm;
• bars with a diameter of 40 by 40 cm (for ceiling sheathing);
• nails;
• self-tapping screw;
• polyethylene film;
• mineral wool or other selected materials (clay, expanded clay, sawdust, foam);

Insulation of the ceiling with clay

1. First, you should prepare the ceiling surface for the upcoming insulation. To do this, you need to fill the slats between the beams at a distance of twenty centimeters from each other. Fasten them with nails.
2. Next, you need to mix straw with clay in a combination of three to two. Dilute all this with a little water so that a thick porridge comes out.
3. Now you should evenly apply a layer of clay in the space between the beams so as to completely fill it. Tamp it down. After that, you should wait enough time for the clay to dry completely.
4. Now you need to re-report the additional layers of insulation. That is, cover up the cracks and cracks formed. To do this, you need to make a solution of sawdust, water and clay.
5. After that, a layer of aluminum foil should be laid. Attach it with nails to the beams.

Sawdust

1. In the attic of the bath, you need to nail several cobblestonesby making the same distance between them. They will serve as a frame.
2. Lay out the vapor barrier film on top so that its canvases overlap the ends of the beams by a few centimeters. Attach them with a stapler or nails.
3. Make a solution of sawdust, water, and clay. It should not be too liquid, but also not thick. In addition, you can not make a solution at all, but simply pour dry sawdust into the attic and secure them with another layer of vapor barrier tape.
4. If you are working with a solution, then after that it must be applied with light movements and tamped a little.
5. After that, you need to wait a while.until the solution is completely dry and re-coat.

Expanded clay

Warming with expanded clay provides for the following action plan:

1. Fill the ceiling in the bath with boards from above.
2. Between them, fill in a layer of expanded clay thirty centimeters.
3. Tamp the expanded clay a little and sheathe it with boards, which must be pre-coated twice.

It is important to know that sand or sawdust should not be added to expanded clay, as over time this will lead to the penetration of moisture and cold.

Styrofoam

1. Styrofoam can be attached both outside the bath and from the inside (from the attic side).
2. Stuff wooden beams on the ceiling with the same distance from each other.
3. Attach the pre-cut foam sheets using nails. Fill all the free space between the wooden beams with them.
4. After that, you need to lay a waterproofing tape or ordinary film. Secure it with a stapler.
5. Make a mortar with sand, concrete and water. Cover the entire surface with it over the foam. Also, instead of this, you can densely hammer the entire surface of the ceiling with wooden planks, leaving no gaps.

Mineral wool

1. First you need to make a waterproofing of the ceiling, sending it with a film.
2. After that, you need to treat the wood with antiseptic agents.
3. Now let's move on to fixing the mineral wool. Usually, it is sold in rolls, and this makes it as convenient as possible to stack it.
4. It is very important when laying cotton wool, not to touch the area where the requirement is located, so that the material does not melt from heat.
5. On top of the cotton wool, on the ceiling, you need to lay the thermal film with the smooth side on top. Attach it with a stapler or nails.
6. Top with chipboard.

Chimney insulation

Insulation around the chimney can be done using the following materials:

• glass wool;
• balsam cotton;
• mineral wool;

Consider mineral wool insulation.

It is done in this way:

1. Cut out several pieces of cotton wool that will fit the size of the pipe.
2. Using wire stitching, fasten it to the chimney.
3. After that, wrap a thermal insulation film on it and attach it with a stapler.
4. After that, you can wrap the chimney with cotton again and wrap it with foil again.

This method of thermal insulation of chimneys is considered the most effective and simplest. With its help, the loss of heat will be halved, so the bath will heat up faster and keep it warm.

Thus, you can insulate not only the chimney, but also the steam room itself, which will make it as protected as possible from fire and frost.

The choice of insulation

All heaters for baths are divided into two large subgroups:

1. Natural.
2. Artificial.

Natural insulation (those created by nature itself include):

Clay

It is a sturdy, inexpensive material that can be applied easily.

Pros of clay:

1. It can retain moisture in the bath for a long time.
2. Has excellent steam and waterproofing properties.
3. Doesn't need additional materials and tools.
4. When solidified, it forms a strong monolithic layer that does not allow water to pass through.

Minuses:

1. The fragility of service.
2. Due to its high weight, it can only be used on strong ceilings and solid decking.

Dry leaves and sawdust and wood

The advantages of this material are:

1. Cheap cost.
2. Fast work.
3. Sawdust does not need to be additionally poured with concrete or other material. It will be enough just to pour them on the ceiling.

The downside is that sawdust can only be used when the ceiling is completely dry and does not get wet.

Artificial insulation includes:

Expanded clay

It is a free-flowing material in granules, which is made from different types of clay.

Its advantages are:

1. Resistant to frost.
2. Fire resistance.
3. Good insulating properties.

The disadvantage is that expanded clay can pass water.

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Mineral wool

It is made from artificial fibers. It contains the following materials: balsate, diabase, limestone and other rocks.

The advantages of such material include:

1. She serves for a long time.
2. Not very expensive.
3. Easy to use.
4. Possesses excellent thermal insulation properties.
5. Isolates sound.
6. Eco-friendly.
7. Has resistance to fire.
8. Small rodents and insects do not start in it.
9. It does not grow mold and mildew.

The disadvantages of this material are:

1. It should be completely isolated from the ingress of steam, since when wet it can lose up to half of its qualities.
2. Such material should not be crumpled or tamped, since when the fibers are squeezed, they lose their thermal insulation qualities.

Styrofoam

It is an artificial material that has foamed plastics that make up the bulk of it.

Pros of Styrofoam:

1. Not very expensive.
2. Combines well with other materials.
3. Convenient to use.
4. Does not rot or decay.
5. Non-toxic.
6. Does not lose shape.

Minuses:

1. May release toxic substances when heated.
2. Light up easily.
3. Small rodents can start in it.

Recommendations

1. It is best to insulate with sawdust those baths that have an attic.
2. When working with clay, the ready-made solution must be immediately applied to the ceiling, otherwise it will begin to harden and will not adhere well.
3. When working with mineral wool, you should do a little ventilation for the ceiling.
4. Styrofoam is best used to insulate a brick or wooden bath.