11 tips for choosing shapes and pouring garden paths

Content

1. №1. Why should I use forms for filling?
2. №2. Types of molds for pouring garden paths
3. No. 3. How to make a shape from a tree?
4. №4. How to make a metal shape?
5. №5. Forms from improvised materials
6. №6. How to make a shape out of silicone?
7. №7. Preparation of the solution and filling into molds
8. №8. Décor options for homemade tiles
9. №9. Preparation of a place for a garden path
10. №10. Mounting of finished boards
11. №11. Filling of stencils on the prepared ground

The purpose of the garden paths is well known to each of us: they serve for convenient movement around the site and are its decoration. A well-organized path will be a wonderful addition to the landscape, but to create a beautiful and original garden not necessarily spend money and buy ready-made tiles in the store - you can do with cheap materials, and your handsCreate a tile of the size and design that is necessary in a particular case. It will take only cement mortar and the corresponding form, and it can be made by hand or purchased ready. Choose or make a mold and fill the garden path yourself

simple, and even interesting, and with the basic nuances of this process, we will try to understand.

№1. Why should I use forms for filling?

Go to the store and choose a tile or any other ready material for arranging the garden path - this is the simplest and quickest solution. Despite the huge choice of such materials, many owners of countryside sites prefer to create garden paths usingforms for filling. The reason lies inweight of advantages:

• cheapness. Thanks to the use of forms, it is possible to create an original garden path even with a minimal budget, as the simplest and most accessible materials are used;
• originality. Using self-made forms, you can create a track that will not be analogous. The shape, size and color of the elements will fully correspond to the site and its style. Thus, the forms are used not only for a limited budget, but also when it is not possible to find a finished tile with the necessary parameters;
• strength. Since the path is made of cement-sand mortar, it will be durable, reliable and withstand decent loads;
• space for imagination. Regardless of what type of mold is used, homemade tiles can be designed using pebbles, glass, thanks to coloring, etc.

For originality and cheapness have to pay owntime and effort- the process of creating a garden path using forms morelong, than when using finished tiles or any other material.

№2. Types of molds for pouring garden paths

All forms that are used to arrange garden paths with their own hands can be divided intosuch types:

• ready-made stencils made of plasticfor pouring cement mortar directly onto the prepared soil. Such forms, as a rule, are squares with a side of 50-70 cm and internal partitions. The stencil is installed in the place where the track is set up, and then the solution is poured into it, after 20 minutes the mold is removed and installed to fill the next part of the path. The choice of such stencils is huge, the price is low, in work they are simple and allow very quickly and easily to equip the garden path;
• ready-made molds for material castingThey are intended for filling with a solution, after hardening, the obtained elements can be used for mounting on a substrate prepared under the path, as well as a conventional tile;
• self-made molds. They are made of wood, metal, silicone, sometimes in the course are any improvised containers, such as boxes of ice cream. This option is the most laborious, but it allows you to create completely unique material.

With ready-made formseverything is simple - you just need to choose the right option, given the size of the future path and your own preferences.Stencilscan be divided into sections of different shapes, with sharp or rounded corners, they allow you to perfectly simulate a tile or a stone. Forms for casting are presented in a wide variety - choose not a problem, but self-made forms require more careful consideration.

No. 3. How to make a shape from a tree?

Easier and cheaper to use for making moldswooden barswith a cross section of 50 mm, they are sanded and treated with an antiseptic. For a stronger connection at the ends of the bars cut the grooves, and from the outside the corners are fixed with metal corners. The size and shape of such a blank can be any: square, rectangular, triangular, trapezoidal, polygonal, etc. It all depends on the imagination, ideas and features of the garden site. It is possible to separate the shape of the form in blocks into several parts, in order to cast several small tiles at once.

The bottom of the formcan serve as a sheet of waterproof or laminated plywood, which is attached to the bars with nails or self-tapping screws. The stronger the joints in the form are made, the more durable it will be and the more times it will be possible to fill the solution.

The alternative is not to nail the bottom and use a mold to fill the solution at the location of this track element, but it is not so convenient, and the dependence on weather factors is too great, so it is better to attach the bottom and work with the shape in any convenient place.

Made in such a simple wayThe mold can be used for pouring cement-sand mortar into it many times, until the required number of elements is ready. Each time before pouring the solution, the walls and the bottom are smeared with used oil or petroleum jelly so that the solidified element is easily removed from the mold. If you have made a fairly large pattern, then when pouring the solution in the middle, do not forget to lay the reinforcing mesh.

№4. How to make a metal shape?

To create forms, sheet metal can be useful, and even metal hoops can be used from an old barrel, but they must be treated with an anticorrosive compound. From the metal, a strip of the necessary width is cut with a Bulgarian or scissors for metal, which correspond toheight of the future track: 4 cm for the pedestrian zone and 6 cm - for parking.It is easy to form such stripsshapes of the required shape, since the metal is easily bent. It remains only to fix the workpiece with welding or self-tapping screws for metal.

The upper edges should be slightly bent with a hammer, so as not to injure them during the work on pouring the solution. Further everything, as well as with the wooden form. Before each use, the form is lubricated with oil, the finished tile is removed from it after hardening, and the stencil itself can be used many times.

№5. Forms from improvised materials

A stencil for creating elements of the garden path can serve as any container that has the necessary shape and proper strength. As a form for pouring cement-sand mixture can be used:

• kitchen containersand containers from products, for example, boxes from 1 and, -kilogram ice cream;
• silicone molds for baking, the choice of which, without exaggeration, is huge. Work with them must be extremely cautious, so as not to tear the shape of a ready-weighty concrete stone.

№6. How to make a shape out of silicone?

The independent creation of a silicone mold is the most laborious and complex method of all the listed. As a result, the same form is obtained for pouring the solution, which is sold in the store, but it will allowcast a unique tile. Astemplateare usedlarge natural stones, rarely use boards with pronounced relief. As a result, you will get a strong strong and the most accurate imitation of natural materials. To make the track look more natural, bettercreate more work pieces, which will require stones of different sizes and shapes.

The mold is made of a two-component silicone - it is an inexpensive material that solidifies at room temperature, is sold in all construction stores.Sequencingto create a form is this:

• preparation of formwork. From the sample to the walls of the formwork on each side should be approximately 2 cm. You can use a box of solid cardboard, you can make the formwork of their wooden bars and plywood according to the method described above, but with the only amendment -the form must be collapsible, but completely hermetic. It should be 2 cm higher than the selected template, which in the future when pouring will provide it with the necessary strength;
• formwork lubricationa thick layer of solidol that the frozen silicone then easily separated from the walls;
• location on the bottom of a stone boxface up, it is also pre-lubricated with a solid oil or oil;
• silicone casting. To avoid the appearance of air bubbles in the mass of silicone, immediately after pouring it is sealed with a brush moistened with detergent solution. After that, the silicone must be smoothed with a spatula soaked in soapy water, this is important, since in a form with an uneven base the solution will freeze unevenly;
• dryingin a dry room with room temperature, takes 2-3 weeks. After that, the formwork is removed, a stone or any other object serving as a sample is removed, and the shape can be used for its intended purpose. Manufactured according to this principle, it can withstand about 1000 pouring cycles.

№7. Preparation of the solution and filling into molds

The solution for pouring into molds is prepared fromcement and sand in the ratio:, water is added in such quantity to obtain a solution of the consistency of thick sour cream: it must have sufficient fluidity to fill the mold, but not completely liquid, so that in the future the material produced is durable. Cement is better to take brandsM300 or M400, sand is suitable for river or quarry. First, the cement powder is mixed well with the sand, and only then water is added, mixing is carried out with a construction mixer or special drill bit. You can use a concrete mixer, if there is one on the site.

In the solution it is possible to add reinforcing fiber, it is not superfluous to use water-repellent additives. If you want topaint a path in some color, then a dye can be added to the mixture at this stage. It is desirable to prepare the solution in an amount that will immediately be used to fill the molds. After preparing the solution, you will have about 1-3 hours to fill in the prepared forms.

Forms of preliminaryoiled with used oil. Wooden and metal billets can be covered with a plastic film for a guarantee. The solution is gently poured into the mold, for a guaranteereinforced with a metal meshapproximately in the middle. Now it remains only to wait for the mixture to freeze, and do not forget 1-2 times a daywet the surface with water, to prevent the appearance of cracks. After 3-4 days the frozen material leaves the walls of the mold, and it can be gently extracted and left to harden in a cool place for 2-3 weeks to set strength.

№8. Décor options for homemade tiles

Depending on your own preferences and features of the garden plot, homemade tiles can be decorated with a mass of different methods. Durable and beautiful material comes out. Here onlyseveral ways to decor:

• pebble decorationor any other stones. First the form is filled in according to the scheme described above. Then, without waiting for the grasp of the solution, stones are laid on its surface in chaotic or strictly necessary order. If the stones are different in color and size, you will get a beautiful natural pattern. All elements are heated into the solution, since strongly sticking out parts can significantly shorten the service life of the material. Now it remains to rub the surface of the stones with a damp cloth and leave the solution to harden for a few days;
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• decoration with the help of pieces of ceramic tiles or dishes, mirrors, glass, beads, rhinestones, shells, mosaic tilesand other elements. Old unnecessary dishes or ceramic tiles can be preliminarily broken into small pieces, it is better to do this by placing the material in a bag, and then already break it into fragments with a hammer. All small decorative elements can be fastened to the solution, as in the previous method, but the already packed element will be difficult to remove or move completely. If the picture is chaotic, it's intrepid, but if you need to create the right geometric pattern, it will be easier to put everything in advanceelements on the bottom of the moldin the correct order, face down. To ensure that the small decorative elements do not move from the specified position, they should be glued on the water glue to the sheet of paper, which is covered with the bottom of the mold. Instead of paper and glue, you can use a special adhesive tape. It remains to fill the mold with mortar and after a few days to get the finished tile. The film is easily peeled off, and the paper is removed with glue, soaking with warm water;
• creation of prints. In this case, the solution is filled according to all rules in the form of certain sizes and parameters, and when it grapples a little, it is possible to squeeze out any prints on it. By attaching a largeburdock leaf, for example, you can get a noticeable relief, and if you used a metal form in the form of a sheet, the result will be great. Prints can be made from cones, sticks, shells, use children's molds and even their own hands and feet, remembering to pre-lubricate the skin with petroleum jelly. When the mold is squeezed out, the solution is left to solidify;
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• painting. Completely frozen and hardened plates can be painted in any color, create drawings, patterns. On top, the pattern is fixed with a layer of varnish;
• other interesting tricks. On top of the surface of a little frozen solution can be treated with a metal brush to get a rough tile. The application of a small amount of yoghurt or kefir to a moist solution makes it possible to get the effect of an aged and overgrown moss surface.

№9. Preparation of a place for a garden path

Before proceeding directly to the installation, it is necessary to perform a complex of works on designing the track and preparing a place for it. We need to decide,where the track will pass the tracks, what shape and width they will be, which depends on who will navigate them. From the gate to the house should track a width of 2 m, auxiliary tracks can be, -1 m wide, and between the beds and at all, m. The shape is flat, slightly curved or curved. Everything depends on the trajectory of the movement between the objects associated with the tracks.

Sequence of preparatory works:

• definition of the location of the track on the site. For convenience, the contours of the future path are marked with wooden pegs and the thread stretched between them, driven at the same distance from each other;
• excavation. Depth of excavation depends on the type of soil and the nuances of arranging the track. The thickness of the tile or the layer of the solution for clay soil to be stencilled is 5-7 cm, for loamy soil - 10 cm. To increase the strength and durability of the track, it is necessary to create a sand pillow 10-15 cm thick. If the soil is marshy, a 5 cm layer of gravel is laid under the sand pillow. To understand which layer of soil to choose, it is necessary to add the thickness of all the necessary layers and the thickness tiles, removing from the result of 2-3 cm - exactly so the track should rise above the level soil;
• pillow arrangement. At the bottom of the excavated trench, it is better to lay geotextiles, ruberoid or agrovolokno so that the sand with rainwater does not go into the ground. Then pour a layer of gravel, if necessary, and sand. All layers are leveled and compacted. If necessary, a curb is installed at this stage. To do this, either use special purchased products, or pavers, monitors it on the edge.

Next, the sequence of work depends on what is used: molds for casting tiles or stencils for pouring a concrete mix directly into the prepared soil.

№10. Mounting of finished boards

Lay the self-poured and frozen plates better on the cement-sand mixture. Pre-sand cushion a little wet and leave to dry. Meanwhile,cement-sand mixturefrom sifted fine sand and cement M400 in the proportions: or:. The carefully mixed mixture is poured onto a sand cushion, the layer should be just above the planned height of the track - this is the stock for the rammer. The mixture is compacted and leveled. To ensure a normal runoff of rainwater, it is better to provide a height difference of about 1 cm from one end of the path to the other.

Now you can proceed to laying tiles, focusing on stretched threads or a curb. Elements are laid outin the required order, gaps are made between them, cm, then the tiles are fixed by tapping a kyanite along the trimming of the board. The seams between the tiles are filled with a cement-sand mixture or simply sand, then they are wiped off by a stiff, fleecy mop. Now it remains to rinse the path with water using a hose and after 4-5 days it can be safely moved around.

Pathways to whichthere is no heavy load, sometimes equip by simply deepening the tiles into the soil layer. In this case, between the tiles, the grass gently breaks through, thus decorating the path.

№11. Filling of stencils on the prepared ground

If a ready-made removable mold is used to impart the desired shape to the solution as it is poured onto the path, the process will take a minimum of time. Such forms, as a rule, consist of several cells resembling the shape of a natural stone.

Sequence of work:

• on the prepared sand cushion the place of the beginning of the casting of the first section is determined;
• the form is lubricated with oil and set to the desired location;
• the cells of the mold are filled with a cement-sand form, the reinforcement is embedded in each cell, the top is leveled with a trowel;
• the solution can be sprinkled with dry cement and leveled to give additional strength. From above, you can also pour dry pigment and level it with a spatula to make the surface as much as possible like a natural stone;
• After 20-30 minutes, when the solution is slightly clamped, the mold is carefully removed and mounted side by side to fill the next section of the track. After 2-3 days the solution dries, it is better to moisten it with a small amount of water every day.
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In this case, you can do with only one stencil, but using 2-3 forms of work will go even faster.Decorate the surface of the track, manufactured in this way, can be done by grinding a metal grater, squeezing out prints, pressing glass and other objects, or by painting a dried surface.

Creating forms for garden paths and pouring them is an interesting creative process that does not require large material investments and is strong even for those who do not have much experience in construction. You can experiment as much as you like, and the result in the form of an original track will become a matter of pride and adornment of the site.

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