Tree peony - care and cultivation, photo

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Its exquisite beauty, tree peony, care and cultivation of which is not very different in level of complexity from garden concerns with its closest relative( grassy peony), will be a worthy decoration of your site. This tall flower belongs to deciduous plants.

Contents:
  • Features of Tree Peony
  • How does tree peony differ from grassy peony?
  • Why the tree peony does not bloom?
  • Important - selection of seedlings
  • Tree peony - planting and care in the open field
  • How to care for tree peony?
  • Watering
  • Fertilizer
  • Tree Treeswhich are increasing every year. Attention is attracted not only by his delightful flowers of different shades, but also by carved, as if openwork, feather-like leaves. Multi-petal buds crown strong stems that can be 14 to 23 cm in diameter. The tree peony is striking in its color range, depending on the variety, the flowers can be snow-white, pink, scarlet, rich fuchsia, yellow, gently mauve, blue( Blue Sapphire) and even light green( Green Jade).Pay attention to the size of the flower itself, for example, the first pink flower in the photo below has a diameter of just the indicated 23 cm( and the second - and even more).
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    Flower size, photo:

    The color of the petals can also have a gradient - a smooth transition from one color to another. The texture of the buds is also diverse: terry, semi-double, normal smooth. A remarkable feature of the tree is an increase in the number of flowers every year. Its blooming time begins 10-14 days earlier than that of its relative, the usual peony. His cold tolerance is higher; he has a more stable “immunity” than his herbal counterpart.

    Gradient color of flower petals, photo:

    The shrub has abundant flowering, the number of blossoming buds at the same time can reach up to 40-50 pieces. Most often, the duration of the flowering phase of each flower is 8-10 days, but even just a bush, generously covered with green foliage, is in itself able to decorate any summer cottage or flower bed.

    Foliage of tree peony, photo:

    Because of its large size, it is planted separately from other flowers, or at a certain distance from the rest of the garden representatives. As an addition to other inhabitants of the garden, it also looks very harmonious, with its individuality, it is appropriate to emphasize the hedge, arch, the area around the gazebo, garden bench or the entrance to the house.

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    What is the difference between tree peony and grass pion?

    The first visual difference is the more powerful, woody shoots with characteristic leaves. In fact - it is a shrub. In the grassy, ​​closer to the cold weather, the stems and shoots die off, and the tree only increases them, each year turning into a spherical shrub that can reach 2 meters in height. In the fall, he naturally sheds foliage, but the shoots remain, become strong, as if woody.

    One more thing, on a tree representative, it is not necessary to periodically cut buds to stimulate the subsequent flowering and distribution of the plant's vital forces. This method works well only in the case of its grassy "relative".The tree in its “behavior” is similar to cold-resistant garden roses - it tolerates the winter well, but in especially severe frosts( in the northern regions of Russia) it is better to protect it with a special covering material. Also for these purposes you can also use laptnik.

    If your peony feels comfortable on the site, you do everything competently and in a timely manner, then its flowering period will last about 3-4 weeks. Usually it blooms before grassy fellow for a half to two weeks. Weather conditions and temperature background in the region significantly affect this factor. For example, in central Russia they bloom in the first weeks of a calendar summer. Without transplanting, in one place, it can grow for decades. For example, the bushes that you can see in the photos below are already 20-30 years old. There are cases when the number of flowers on one bush reached 100 pieces!

    Photos of long-standing bushes:

    Another significant nuance( and difference) is the fact that they bloom only in the 4th or 5th year from the time of planting in open ground. At first, one flower appears at the end of a straight-growing shoot, and then, gradually, over time, the bush picks up color, builds up shoots, and abundantly becomes covered with buds. The first years it may even seem to you that the bush has stopped growing, but this is normal for this species; for the first five years, it generally adds very slowly in volume and growth. The time difference in the "ripening" of the bush is another difference.

    Briefly summarize the main difference between the difference between tree and grass, with the following parameters:

    • bush height;
    • the size of the flower itself( its diameter);
    • nuances, differences in care;
    • escape toughness.

    Consider the natural slow growth of this flower, the process of growing shoots occurs gradually and not as quickly as we would like. In order for the bush to give flowers, it must grow to at least 60 cm in height.

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    Why does not the tree peony bloom?

    This question can very often be seen on thematic flower forums or various gardening groups on social networks. The answer is predictable - improper care, poorly chosen landing site, as well as illiterate preparation of the soil for it( no drainage, failure to properly embed the flower in the soil).About these nuances will be discussed below. The bush itself can be quite old or, conversely, young, not yet reached the stage of the appearance of flowers( as we remember, more than one year must pass in order for the tree-like peony to give color).

    Place for bushes should be bright and spacious, the soil - fertile, loose, alkaline.

    This plant does not like transplant - you should know about it. If it happens that for some reason a transplant is still required, then all actions should be carried out very carefully. It is necessary to remove a bush from the soil with an earthy lump, be careful to ensure that the roots do not get damaged. However, be prepared for the fact that the flower after this event will come to itself for a very long time, get sick and adapt to a new place for 2 or even 3 years.

    Proper watering also has a great effect on flowering. It is necessary to water abundantly and generously at a time, but this should not be done often! Water stagnation is dangerous for him, so if you have clay soil in the area, provide your pet with good drainage before planting( lay a drainage layer in the hole under the flower).It develops better and grows in open sunny places, but in the penumbra the flowers retain their freshness and duration of flowering longer.

    Bud, photo:

    Summarizing the main reasons why the tree peony does not bloom:

    1. Insufficient or, conversely, excessive penetration of the bush into the soil during planting.
    2. Overworking with nitrogenous fertilizers.
    3. Excessive enthusiasm or, conversely, insufficient provision of feedings( this flower does not need a large number of auxiliary additives).
    4. Damage to the bush by frost or, conversely, abnormal heat. Diseases should also not be written off. When planting a flower, always consider the predisposition of the selected variety to the temperature characteristics of the weather in your region. For example, when living in warm regions, choose early flowering varieties.
    5. The banal lack of sunlight can also be the reason why the bush does not bloom.
    6. Age - young bushes bloom at 4 or 5 years of age, as already mentioned above.
    7. Too close distance between plants - he likes space.
    8. Replanting( sometimes repeated) or separation of the rhizome can also be due to the lack of flowers.
    9. Pruning shoots. Unknowingly, some gardeners prune shoots with the onset of autumn. Sometimes even before the foliage began to change color( darken) or fall off.
    10. Excessive dryness or, conversely, too wet ground. Remember that in between watering the ground should have time to dry.

    Many gardeners would like the flower to combine its own beauty along with the unpretentiousness of the grassy fellow. Breeders are not inactive and are constantly trying to bring new hybrids, they are called ITO-peonies( peonies of the new generation) - but that's another story.

    Separately growing bush( it needs space), photo:

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    Important - selection of seedlings

    Pay attention to the planting material - its root system is open or closed. When buying at a corresponding point of sale, the sapling may already have special packaging( for example, a plastic bag on top), and its roots, on the contrary, may be bare or staying in a bag with a substrate. These figures tell us that this is a peony with an open root system. But if the plant is sold in a finished pot and even has( sometimes) buds, then this is a flower with a closed root system.

    Be sure to look at whether the seedling is grafted or it has its own roots. If there is a graft, the roots are dark and thick. In diameter, they can reach 4-5 cm and in appearance are somewhat similar to carrots. In such representatives, flowers may appear in the first year of life after planting. Such samples must be purchased in the respective nurseries, under the guidance of competent professional gardeners - and nothing else.

    Saplings, photo:

    If you got a sapling obtained from a layering, then the roots will be light, thin and long. After planting, you can see flowers after 4 years( approximately).There is nothing new in the “scheme” for obtaining cuttings: a healthy and strong shoot with buds bends down to the ground, pinned, covered with soil. After a certain time, the roots sprout from the buds, the shoot is trimmed and divided into several fragments with roots.

    When purchasing such a sapling obtained from a layer, pay attention so that its roots are not exposed, and the plant itself has at least 5 capable buds. The length of this seedling must be at least 25 cm!

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    Tree peony - planting and care in the open field

    For a beautifully flowering bush to develop well, be strong and healthy, the first thing is to choose a comfortable time and place for its planting. The most favorable period for this is considered the end of summer / beginning of autumn. If possible, determine for it an exalted place illuminated by the rays of the sun. Thick trees growing nearby or various buildings will create a thick shadow - and this is unacceptable for any peony. Light shading is the most optimal place. Winds and drafts are also highly undesirable. What sways planting in the spring, it is not recommended because of the difficult adaptation of the plant, because during this period growth and flowering is activated.

    Loams - ideal soil for this flower, if sandy soil prevails on your site, then in advance, add turf, clay, peat, and humus to it. Organic fertilizers and clean river sand can significantly improve the composition of the earth for the harmonious development of peony. He does not like sour soil either, so in advance “deoxidize” it by adding lime. Plant a flower where there is no low groundwater flow, but if there is no other possibility, then the pit needs to be made quite deep for it( about 70-80 cm, the diameter is similar).Lay a drainage layer on the bottom of the recess, about 30-35 cm, crushed stone or gravel of the small fraction is perfect for this business. In extreme cases, a 30 cm layer of river sand can also be used.

    Tree peony - how to plant? There is nothing difficult here: build a small mound out of the ground in a hole, put a bush on it, gently straighten the roots, pour water generously. After moisture is absorbed into the soil, sprinkle the seedling so that its root collar is flush with the soil surface.

    If you plant several bushes at once, do not forget about the distance between them, it should be at least two meters of one plant from another!

    The so-called "fastidiousness" is to find the golden mean - creating optimal and harmonious conditions. The hot sun is harmful, but the thick shadow is unacceptable, he loves water, but waterlogging is fraught with root rot, and free space is necessary for the flower to grow and become a luxurious lush shrub. The soil is important, because it is the food of the plant, so it must be fertile and loose, drained. In principle, in this task there is nothing difficult for an enthusiastic gardener, since every green inhabitant requires attention, but also rewards accordingly - with beauty and an awareness of success that still happened, raised, blooms and smells!

    Tree Peony Planting and Care - Add-ons( optional):

    1. Some gardeners say that the planting pit should first “ripen”.I have already written about diluting the soil with fertilizers and additives, but according to some experienced gardeners, this pit should be prepared a month before planting. That is, make all the supplements in advance, and only then bury the seedling in the pit.
    2. When the seedling is dug into the ground, its lowest bud should already be implanted into the soil by about 15 cm. Some gardeners recommend placing such a “pie” in advance at the bottom of the pit: a layer of humus, a thin layer of earth, add a top dressing on it, sprinkle it evenly1 tablespoon( with a hill) of copper sulphate. For greater reliability, you can mix a little hydrated lime with the ground( to lower the pH).
    3. If the seedling fell into your hands in late autumn or winter, then “lower” it until the end of next summer. To do this, take a small pot with a suitable dredger, dig a bush into it, place it in a cool, but lighted room. For all this period, the flower will strengthen the roots, and in the last weeks of August or the first two weeks of September, you will be able to plant it for permanent residence in open ground.

    Listen to these additions or plant a plant without any special tricks - you choose. As practice shows, with proper compliance with all requirements, in both cases you will receive a positive result.

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    How to care for a tree peony?

    Basic care for him, in principle, the same as for the grassy. From time to time it is necessary to loosen the soil, remove weeds, fertilize it. If your bush boasts an abundance of flowers and shoots, be sure to create a support for it so that the branches will not break under the weight of the flowers.

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    Watering

    One bush requires about 6-8 liters of water, such abundant watering should be done at least 2 times a month. In this case, consider the possible precipitation! During the summer heat, this can be done more often - the state of the soil and the flower itself will tell you. From about August, water volumes during irrigation should be gradually reduced to complete exclusion. It is recommended to push the ground around the bush a couple of days after watering, when the top layer of the earth dries out. When loosening, the depth of immersion of a garden tool should be no more than 5 cm. It is possible to mulch with humus, but its layer should not be too thick.

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    Fertilizers

    Peony loves nitrogen and potassium, it needs to be made regularly. Nitrogen supplements are relevant at the very beginning of the growing season, and potassium phosphate additives will be relevant from the moment when the peony begins to form flower buds until the end of the vegetative phase. When the bush begins to give flowers, in addition to its favorite potassium and phosphorus, you can add a little nitrogen. However, it should be remembered that an overabundance of this component can ruin it, therefore, to make nitrogen in this period or not - you choose. Sometimes it is better to wait less than to perebdet - this is just such a case in relation to nitrogen fertilizer. Do not forget to moisturize the ground abundantly before each application of additional fertilizing - this will create a protective background for the root system of the flower.

    While your peony is at a young age, the first 2.5-3 years, fertilizers are applied using the root method: approximately 35-40 g of mineral additives are diluted in a bucket of water( 10 liters) and irrigated with a spray bottle after each watering. Thus, the plant receives "food" through the foliage and shoots. Adult representatives are fed three times a year: in the spring, during the emergence of new shoots, during the swelling of the buds, after the bush finally fades.

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    Protection for the winter

    As mentioned above, the tree peony is cold-resistant, but the purchased copies need to be protected in the winter. It will be better if for the first couple of years you will cover them for the winter with lutrasil, spanbond, sacking or lapnik. Additionally, on top you can make a "hat" of snow. About the cultivation and protection( even adults) of peonies in cold regions was mentioned above.

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    Pruning a tree peony

    Like any plant, it needs pruning, but it is more of a care nature. This procedure should be carried out in early spring, when the growing season has not yet begun. All damaged, shrunken and dead branches must be removed. Old shoots are shortened by about 10-15 cm.

    In China, there is a tendency to produce a radical rejuvenating pruning every 10 years - when the shoots are cut almost to the root. This manipulation is aimed at awakening, activation of new buds, which subsequently gives a "second life" to the flower.

    Or each branch is pruned to the border of the second kidney - this pruning contributes to the abundant and lush flowering of the shrub. How they are there in China - they know better, and in our regions, according to expert observations, the tree-like peony does not like pruning very much, therefore, with the onset of spring, at least remove the damaged and dry shoots. If you notice that some of the branches are very cold, do not rush to cut them, it is possible that the buds will still "move away", wake up and dissolve - this also happens.

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    Tree peony diseases

    This flower is considered quite resistant and strong in terms of resistance to disease. However, it can be visited by parasites and diseases. The main problem is illiterate care, and old or weak transplant bushes are the first to enter the risk zone.

    The main diseases and methods to combat them:

    1. The most dangerous and insidious enemy is gray rot( aka Botritis).This fungal disease is activated when the soil is over-wetted and lack of sun( for example, when it is rainy summer).A grayish raid appears on the leaves - if you notice this, then immediately cut off the suspicious fragments and burn them somewhere far away from the site. Another sign of this disease is the softening and sharp withering of young and strong shoots. It is treated with irrigation with potassium permanganate( 4 g per 10 l of water) and 7% copper sulfate solution( copper sulphate), also diluted with water. Irrigation should not only ground part of the bush, but the soil around it, and even mulch.
    2. Brown Spot - the same action. Irrigation with a low-carbonate solution of potassium permanganate( 4 g per 10 l of water) serves as a preventive measure against it. Affected leaves also require immediate removal and destruction, and the bush itself( ground part) is treated with 1% Bordeaux liquid.
    3. Rust( some gardeners claim that it is synonymous with brown spot) very quickly affects the bush, it even happens that the whole plant is destroyed within a day. First, brown-violet spots appear on the leaves, and then the foliage abruptly curls and dries at the same time. Radical treatment is the removal of all affected parts of the shrub and their destruction. In the case of rust, prevention is good: timely loosening the soil to ensure fresh air intake( weed removal and thinning of other, nearby growing plants).In early spring, before the leaves appear on the shoots, or in late autumn, when they all fall off, the ground under the bush and around it must be treated with a solution of nitrafen diluted in water, 200 g per 1 bucket of water will be sufficient.
    4. Ring-shaped foliage mosaic is another viral disease that is manifested by the appearance of stripes and “rings” on the leaves. These lesions have a yellowish or light green tint, as practice shows, the ring-shaped mosaic does not particularly affect flowering and development of the bush, but the appearance of the foliage spoils. The strips dry out over time and the sheet seems to crack. Contact fungicide "Maxim" copes well with this disease, it should be diluted as indicated on the package.

    By the way, diseases are very often transmitted not only through infected planting material or soil, but also through garden tools. Insects, even ordinary ants, can carry a fungus or a virus to healthy bushes.

    A real garden aristocrat - a tree peony, growing and care, as well as an approach to itself, oddly enough, requires a very unpretentious and does not have special requests. This exquisite plant harmoniously combines the qualities of a decorative flower and shrub. The long-liver will delight you and your loved ones with its beauty for so many years and even decades.

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