Connecting the hob to the mains: instruction

At first glance, connecting the hob to the mains independently seems to be a rather complicated procedure. Having bought an expensive device, not everyone can master the services of a master, the price of which in Moscow starts from 1000 rubles. In our article we will try to answer the most popular questions that arise during installation. And then your connection will pass, like an experienced electrician.

Safety regulations 

The connection of an electric hob and an oven, like any powerful equipment, always occurs via a separate wiring line from a distribution panel. The oven must not be powered from a common box in the kitchen or existing outlets.

A conventional circuit breaker fails to protect the device in case of insulation damage and electrical leakage. Before installation, make sure that the wires are in satisfactory condition. Since otherwise, the stove will constantly turn off and become unusable. And do not forget to turn off the machines on the shield.

Wiring cable for connection

To do this, use two types of power cable: VVGNG-Ls or NYM. In the first, the conductive core is protected by a PVC compound and on top of another, non-combustible. And secondly, under the cable sheath, the cores are filled with belt insulation.

The cable must be copper and three-core, with a cross section of at least 6 mm2. It is with its help that you can connect all existing models of cooking surfaces.

Connection of induction hob in the panel

The hob and oven are connected only through an RCD and a diffuse machine or a differential machine with a leakage current of 30 mA. The hobs must not be connected via a conventional machine with a thermal release.

If the cable is already laid, but has a smaller cross-section than is necessary for the power of your hob, and you do not want to lay it again, there is a way out. To the detriment of the power of the panel, you can do the following - install a switch in the shield according to the nominal cable section. At the same time, the stove will not work for the whole and it is impossible to turn on all the burners at the same time in it.

How to connect the hob?

• In the shield, the phase wire of the cable (usually brown or gray, less often than other colors) is led to the lower terminal of the machine with the number 2.
• The blue (zero core) is connected to the bottom terminal, labeled N.
• The yellow-green core, which is a protective ground, is connected to a similar one, which is separately.

Hob socket and plug

The branch and plugs need special ones for current in the range 32A-40A. If you will not lead the cable directly into the panel, you should make a separate outlet for it - this is the most convenient option when using the device. When wet cleaning, the panel should always be de-energized. If your device is connected directly, you will have to go to the shield several times and turn off the electricity in the entire apartment. And with the outlet, things will go much faster.

The outlet is installed at a convenient height for the user, most often not higher than 90 cm from the floor. The hob must not be installed flush with the outlet so that the appliance rests directly against it. It should be placed on the right or left.

If there is an oven nearby, the outlet must be below the oven. Most often, it is placed near the kitchen legs (at least 10 cm from the floor). But it’s also impossible to make an outlet on the floor, since there is a possibility of flooding by neighbors or leaking water supply.

The main drawback of these outlets is that they bulge out of the wall up to 7 centimeters. Therefore, the hob itself will protrude very strongly forward.

Which outlet to choose? Low-power panels up to 3.5 kW (most often two-burner) can be connected through the euro outlet. But it will always work at maximum (rated power 16A) and get very warm.

But the cable 3 * 6 mm winding on the contacts of the plug is quite difficult. The best option would be to use highly specialized plugs and sockets for cookers designed for 40A. How the zero and phase are located in the outlet does not matter. The main thing is that the grounding conductor comes into contact directly. When connecting the plug, the polarity must be observed, for this there is a special marking of the terminals.

If you purchased only the plug itself, then you can not do without a three-wire PVA wire, whose cross section should correspond to the power of the plate. To connect the wire, you should disassemble the plug body, remove the insulation, strip the cores and crimp them with the tip of the NShV. Then tighten the screws on the plug, bring zero and phase under the side terminals, and grounding under the top screw.

Panel connection without plug

If such an outlet does not suit you and you want to remove the junction box or the socket, you can do this using two options: sleeves or through the mounting box.

The connection of the electrolux 4-wire hob to the socket, in which there are only three cores, may at first surprise. The fact is that in many cooking surfaces of the cable with four cores, they are designed for both single-phase connection in 220V, and for two-phase connection, 380V. It is very convenient that half the burners can work from one phase, and the other from a more powerful one.

The second phase can be used not only for power management. If you want to connect everything to regular 220V, you just need to remove one core (black), insulating it. And then you will have zero, earth and phase. It is also possible to combine two phase wires through one lug.

Very rare, but there is an option with a 5-core cable. They are designed for 380V and they are used for powerful panels from 7 kW. And in order to connect them to our 220V network, you should connect 2 cores in pairs and insulate one. But such a connection will not be entirely true, since the protective conductor must be of the same cross section as the phase.

Sleeve connection

In this case, the wires in the socket are connected to the cable going to the panel. It is very important to choose the sleeve GML corresponding section.

The sleeves are made of electrotechnical copper with tin-bismuth coating and are designed for wire and cable of 5 and 6 classes of flexibility. The insulation is tinned and provides corrosion resistance. If the cross-sections of the cores are different, then on the lower side the sleeve should be sealed with an additional wire. Then the ends should be pressed in and insulated with a thermotube or electrical tape. Then all this is hiding in the socket.

This method is not very convenient in that the connection is non-separable and for crimping the ends press tongs are needed. It is impossible to compress the pliers with the pliers.

Connection via mounting box

Mounting box KlK-5C is the most convenient option. In addition to a screwdriver, you do not need any tools, and the outgoing cable is easy to disconnect at any time. True, the contacts are thin and tight tightening can damage them.

But the box is small and convenient to mount anywhere. Often they are assigned to kitchen cabinets. Connection is carried out according to the classical scheme:

• blue wire (zero) through terminal N,
• grounding - yellow-green core
• 3 phase connectors on top.

 At a voltage of 220 volts, the excess phases should be removed and insulated.

Induction hob connection diagrams

How to connect an induction hob? Different manufacturers have different connection schemes. But on the back there is always a sticker with a factory drawing.

The circuit for a single-phase network is 1 N. In this case, the first three terminals and the last two (4 and 5) are connected by jumpers. Electrical conductors (copper or brass) come complete with a hob. Usually they are located with the terminals and without them only part of the induction furnace will work. And if in the process one of the jumpers burns out and half of the hob breaks down - be aware that the issue is with the jumper.

Before connecting the PVSh wire, remove the insulation and test the conductors. Also note if there is free space in the terminal box for mounting other lugs. Sometimes they should be shortened or completely abandoned one of them.

First, jumpers are installed, then the phase is connected to terminal 3 and the contacts are tightened. Zero is mounted on a jumper between terminal 4 and 5. A blue terminal is wound into the fifth terminal and the contact is tightened. A protective ground is connected to a similar connector, located separately.

Frequent connection errors

Some miscalculations when connecting the hob are quite serious. They can completely damage the hob or cause a fire.

1. Sometimes it happens that the panel starts working strangely: first it turns off, then it turns on itself. You should not think that the matter is in the wrongly connected wires. Many models have child protection, which is triggered by a random button press. There are also models with the function of recognizing dishes - as long as there is no pan on the burner, the burner will not heat.
2. Another common problem is that only half the burners work, and the rest show residual heat. In this case, network blocking is triggered when single-phase connection of three-phase models. So the hob itself limits the power. In this case, you should understand the instructions and only then touch the terminal blocks.
3. It is forbidden to connect induction panels with a power of more than 3.5 kW through an ordinary plug and socket in 16A.
4. A cable with a cross section of 2.5 mm cannot be used for hobs with a power of 7 kW or more.
5. If there is no phase jumper on one of the terminals, then half the burners will not work, or the panel will not turn on at all.