The content of the article:
Perennial ornamental plants are rightly loved by many owners of household plots and are actively used in landscaping. Since these crops do not need to be sown on an annual basis, growing seedlings and transferring them to a permanent place, flowering and decorative-deciduous perennials significantly save the strength and time of the floriculturist.
All of them are divided into two large groups:
- wintering, that is, those who are not afraid of winter cold and survive them on their flowerbed or alpine hill;
- not wintering, in need of annual digging and storage in special conditions until the next growing season.
The second group includes dahlias, gladiolus, and other species, among which the majority are bulbous. These cultures need a personal approach. But what about those who do not need an annual extraction from the earth and grow well in one place for several years?
No green plant can not do without attention at all. Even the most unpretentious perennials are no exception. At first, plants are pleased with good growth and fine decorative. But after a while the florist notices that:
- perennials are less blooming;
- once lush curtains in the center thin out;
- plants gradually seize neighboring areas.
In this case, a perennial culture requires transplantation and rejuvenation. How, when and with what frequency is it better to conduct this procedure?
Periodicity of transplantation of perennial ornamental crops
Each perennial has its own time, when it is time to leave the place where it has been occupied.
The shortest interval between transplants in pinnate cloves, koreopsis, pyrethrum, some varieties of perennial violets and primulas (primula long-term planting and leaving the photo). The same applies to thyme and oregano often planted on flowerbeds and mixborders. In 2-3 years, these plants need to be planted. The reason for the soon loss of decorativity is that when the roots of plants begin to rise above ground level, in the center of the curtain, a patch of dried roots from last year's roots and stems is formed. This effect leads to a deterioration in the nutrition of living parts of perennial, its development is only on the periphery and gradually fades. Therefore, adult curtains are periodically excavated, neatly divided, and the resulting parts are planted, sprinkling the top with fertile soil.
Favorite by many for the luxurious fragrance and elegant flowers are white lilies, other decorative varieties of lily flowers, and irises with a superficial root system are transplanted for a year or two less often.
If this is not done, after 4-5 years, scaly bulbs of lilies and rhizomes of irises are so deeply buried in the soil that the sprouts formed on them are weak and refuse to bloom.
Up to 6-7 years in one place without visible problems grow hosts, grassy peonies, perennial phlox, astilbe and delphinium, unpretentious bright daylilies and other crops, which, when digging out, reveal powerful rhizomes that for many years have provided plants with everything necessary for growth and flowering. When transplanting a large specimen it is possible and necessary to disassemble it to obtain a young planting material.
When is it best to transplant perennials?
Transplantation and multiplication by the division of rhizomes are carried out in spring or autumn:
- In the first case, the plants are best tolerated by the procedure carried out from the second half of April to the first of May.
- For the second time, it is possible to transfer perennials to a new location from August to September.
The choice of this or that option depends on the planted crop. Flowering plants in the second half of summer are best transplanted with the onset of heat, and, conversely, when buds appear in the spring, the transplant is postponed until autumn.
Many growers prefer to devote to the care of perennials the end of summer and the beginning of autumn for the most simple and understandable reason. During this period they have more free time for such a pleasant, but rather troublesome work.
However, with the autumn transplantation, experienced growers associate serious risks. If you are a bit late, the perennials that have not re-established themselves until the cold, may suffer from the winter or die altogether. Therefore, the procedure is always consistent with the long-term weather forecast, given the frost resistance of crops and climatic features of the region. It is better, if during the transplantation there will be dry weather with air temperature not lower than 12-15 degrees.
Features of transplanting plants with different measles system
Perennial plants with a superficial root system or with fibrous roots that do not go deep into the ground, dig out and transplant are not difficult. Even the loss of some part in this case does not hurt, because this is how the reproduction of the culture. The foregoing fully applies to violets, pyrethrum and nivianica, rudbeckia and echinacea, numerous species ornamental and spicy plants belonging to the family of the clearing, for example, to the monarch, oregano, lofant, melissa and mint.
It is best to transplant such plants in autumn, when they are clearly visible, and the dried up aboveground part can be cut off without regrets, damaged or rotten rhizomes to be removed. Large curtains are divided so that the resulting parts after planting are rooted and given new shoots.
Similarly come with irises, peonies, lilies of the valley, and badan. The roots of these plants externally differ in appearance, but in the presence of potential growth points, the lines soon give independent sprouts.
The most difficult is the transplantation of perennial crops with a rod root system. An example is the Persian poppies and dincentres, lupins, delphiniums and aquilegia, which are extremely are sensitive to damage to the roots, but also do not grow as much as their cousins with friable rhizomes. Therefore, such a culture is better without the need to not disturb, but only gently to separate the daughter plants that form at the base of the rosette.
