Ceiling insulation in a private house: what material and method to choose

Many people, when building a private house on their own, do not want to spend time, money and effort on insulation of the ceiling, hoping for a stove or electric heaters. But in this situation, more resources will be required to heat a room without upper insulation, which will ultimately become a less economical option. Therefore, we recommend that you attend to this issue, especially since this type of construction work is considered one of the most simple, even for non-professionals.

Where to insulate the ceiling: inside or outside

Both methods result in the same degree of thermal insulation, but the second is more convenient and versatile. Therefore, they resort to internal insulation only when it is not possible to implement another, for example, if the roof of the attic is too low, important engineering communications are laid on it, or others live there owners.

By the way! If the room has a ready-made renovation, then it is more expedient to prefer the external method for economic reasons: you do not have to disassemble the ceiling.

Attic floor insulation options

As the name implies, when choosing an external method of work, they are carried out from the side of the attic, with an internal one - from the side of the room. In the first case, any kind of insulation can be used, since it is enough to spread / sprinkle it on the bottom layer and cover it. In the second, the insulating material is attached to the top, so options with bulk varieties disappear.

There is also an intermediate method - installing a panel ceiling. It sounds simple: the panels are assembled first, and then they are installed in place of the ceiling. But in practice, there are so many important little things in this method that it is considered the most labor-intensive and feasible only with the help of professional builders.

Materials for thermal insulation

The main criteria for choosing a material can be called the method of insulation, climatic conditions (which determines the thickness and degree of thermal conductivity), the need for additional work, the time spent and price. Thermal insulation can be divided into four types:

1. Board materials include: compacted mineral wool, cork sheets, ecowool, extruded foam, etc.
2. Rolls - mineral wool and foamed polyethylene.

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3. Bulk - expanded clay, ecowool, dry sawdust and other natural materials.

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4. Sprayed - polyurethane foam, foam insulation, ecowool.

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Important points are naturalness and the absence of toxic secretions. From this position, the best options are cork, ecowool, linen mats, peat blocks, foam glass, expanded clay and sawdust.

Installation of different types of heaters for thermal insulation of the ceiling in the house

The most common option among non-professional builders is the use of slab and roll materials and bulk materials (due to the similarity of technology, we will combine them into one group). Sprays are more difficult to work with and have many safety requirements, so they are often used by professionals.

Use of plate and roll insulation

Their installation is carried out according to the following scheme:

Where 1 - floor beams, 2 - waterproof film, 3 - insulation and 4 - vapor barrier.

First of all, a vapor barrier membrane is covered, which is attached with a construction stapler to the beams. It is necessary in order to protect the thermal insulation and the wood of the floor from water vapor that is harmful to them.

If there is a foil layer on the vapor barrier, then it should be directed towards the room. If it is not there, then you should focus on the production labeling. The film is overlapped, and the joints are sealed with reinforcing tape.

When working with foam, the surface between the beams is first leveled, and the use of a vapor barrier is not necessary, since it itself has vapor barrier properties. Alignment is necessary for a tight joint with the base, since foam, unlike cotton wool, is hard and does not fill in irregularities.

After installing the base, insulation is laid on top. If it is made of polystyrene, then it is important to cut it to size as accurately as possible. But even with the most careful work, gaps are inevitable, which should be foamed.

A waterproofing membrane is stretched over the insulation, which is attached to the beams with brackets. The final step is flooring. However, if the attic is not planned to be used, then it can be skipped.

Important! In order to prevent the formation of condensation, there must be a ventilation gap between the floor and the waterproofing.

Laying backfill thermal insulation

Work with it takes place according to the following scheme (for example, expanded clay):

Here, more attention needs to be paid to the lower base, otherwise the insulation may spill out through the gaps. For this, either boards or a special covering (roofing felt, glassine or vapor barrier) are used.

By the way! The first option, called rough sheathing or ceiling, is better suited for sawdust, the second for ecowool.

In the first case, all the gaps between the boards should be covered with clay or lime. If sawdust is used as a material, then let us assume that they are mixed with clay or lime mortar. In this case, the need to seal the boards is reduced, but in the case of clay, fire safety increases.

The second option is more labor-intensive, but at the same time and economical. As in the installation of non-flowing materials, the canvases are laid, attached to the boards and glued with reinforcing tape at the joints. In the case of roofing material, bituminous mastic is used for this.

Heat-insulating material is poured over the base. If ecowool is used, then it should be well tamped, since it is prone to shrinkage.

Then the waterproofing is stretched. Its purpose is to let the moisture evaporating from the thermal insulation pass through itself, but to prevent it from getting outside from above. If necessary, the attic floor is laid.

How to insulate the ceiling from the inside of the house

To do this, you will need the following step-by-step instructions:

1. Floor beams are attached to the Mauerlat.
2. Bars are prepared, which will subsequently be attached under them: they are cleaned of mold, treated with an antiseptic.
3. They are fixed around the perimeter of the Mauerlat.
4. Temporary retaining boards are laid on the beams (they are not fixed by anything).
5. On top of them, waterproofing is stretched and fixed with a construction stapler on the beams and beams. This is the only step that is taken from the outside. Neighboring canvases are overlapped.
6. Under the beams at right angles to them, the crossbars of the lathing are placed (squares are obtained for the size of the insulation strips).
7. Insulation is being prepared. The slab is adjusted to the size, the roll is cut.
8. It is laid between the beams, above the lathing elements, and leans against the waterproofing.
9. For reliability, the insulation is pulled together with a string.
10. A vapor barrier is located and secured with tape and staples.
11. The final step is to install the ceiling.

Ceiling insulation has its own nuances, but if you figure them out, it is quite possible to carry out these works on your own.