Sauna stove pipes

Sauna stove pipes

After a week of work, you want to relax and have fun. Many people try to get it in the bathhouse. Being here, I would like not to be afraid of carbon monoxide gases, from which you can get poisoned.

Stove pipe for a bath

For this, you should take care of their taps. A high-quality equipped chimney will be a good guarantee in the design of the stove.

The hood for the pipe can be done independently, the main thing is to approach this issue with all seriousness. In this article, we will introduce you to the different types of chimneys and how to make them yourself. You just have to choose the option you like.

Description

The chimney in the bath can be of different designs, and are made of different materials, therefore they have individual characteristics. For example, a stove is made of bricks, the chimney may have a ceramic, metal, brick material.

Sometimes, a combined series: ceramics, metal and brick. Now, few people install a brick pipe, due to the complex installation. Prefabricated chimneys are actively used, they are easy to maintain and install.

The metal furnace is consistent only with metal and ceramics.

Principle of operation

The work of the chimney is draft. This is achieved by a temperature difference between the inside and outside of the tube. The greater the difference, the higher the thrust. Due to the low density of the heated air, it rises. Natural ventilation flows. Cold air flows inward and warm air flows outward.

Pipe requirements

• Periodically clean the chimney.
• In case of insufficient draft, a discharge manifold is installed.
• Have a good seal.
• To prevent condensate from leaking inward, stick to the horizontal plane of the oven-tube.

Dimensions (edit)

The leading dimensions are the height of the chimney and its diameter in the passage opening.

These values ​​are dictated by the power of the furnace, which are stipulated in the SNiP. For example, if the chimney is square or rectangular, for a 3.5 kW stove the hole should be 14x14 cm, 5.2 - 14x20 cm, 7.2 - 14x27 cm.

When using a round tube, its diameter should not be less than the outlet hole of the stove. The height should be taken taking into account the height of the roof. Below is a drawing of the required values.

Views

There are two types of chimneys:

• External;
• Internal.

By type of material:

• Steel;
• Brick;
• Ceramics;
• Stainless steel;

Description of each species

External chimney

Built outdoors. And the disadvantage that this type has is corrected by additional insulation.

Pros:

• Fire safety.
• Easy to mount.

Minuses:

• Heat loss.

Interior

The structure is located inside the bath. And for such a placement, an inner exhaust pipe should be equipped. This condition must be met to maintain a high temperature in the bath.

Pros:

• Heat preservation.
• Fuel efficiency.

Minuses:

• The complexity of installation is one step higher.
• Increased fire hazard.

Steel

This type includes two more subspecies: one wall and double wall (sandwich).

pros:

• High strength.
• High temperature resistant.
• Simplicity and speed of construction, without the invitation of specialists.

Cons for pure products:

• Corrosion from temperature extremes.
• The possibility of burning out the structure.
• Frost formation, followed by its transformation into moisture.
• Influence on the traction of thin walls.

Sandwich - chimneys represent a "pipe in a tube" design. The gaps between them are filled with insulation. It can be basalt fiber or mineral wool.

Advantages:

• The flue gases are sent to the flue ducts at a high speed.
• Low condensate volume.
• There is a lower temperature on the outer pipe.
• Simplicity of outdoor installation.
• Reduced size of the opening when overlapping walls and roofs.

disadvantages:

• High price

Brick

This type can be called the oldest and most traditional material used by our ancestors. To increase the strength of the material, clay and limestone were used in the masonry mix.

pros:

• Long service life.
• Good fire resistance.

Minuses:

• Bulky design.
• Rapid formation of soot.
• Complexity of cleaning.
• High installation requirements.
• Incompatibility with some types of ovens.
• Absorbs moisture.

Ceramic

This option is used quite rarely, as it has a solid weight and is installed only with a stationary stove. Basically, this type is built in saunas.

pros:

• Refractoriness.
• Durability.
• Great cravings.
• No condensation.
• No additional insulation required.
• Do not overheat.

Minuses:

• High price.
• Complexity of installation.

Stainless steel

This type is the most modern and can be installed on any stove.

pros:

• Ease.
• Ease of installation.
• Compatible with various types of stoves.
• Chimney collection.
• The quality of the material.
• Condensation resistance.
• Durability.
• High efficiency of the furnace due to the perfectly round cross-section.
• Availability of prices.
• Easy to maintain.

Minuses:

• Mandatory insulation.
• If an external chimney is installed, condensation forms on the pipe.
• High price compared to steel types.

This type can be represented as sandwich tubes. When the inner part removes the combustion products, and the outer part is a protective shell.

Price

The cost of the finished product depends on the material chosen and the tube diameter. For example, a one-sided stainless steel tube, per running meter will be in the range of 384-498 rubles.

Sandwich tube - 676-7720 rubles. The knee is estimated as the cost of one meter of tube. Tee - 1540-7700 rubles. On average, all the devices will cost 115,000 rubles. Ceramic chimney is much more expensive.

How to choose

• Correctly select the structure of the chimney (section, shape, material). The wrong choice can lead to fire, backdraft, smoke.
• Height and diameter.
• Ease of mounting.
• Reliability and safety.
• The quality of the internal surfaces of the chimney.
• Ease of maintenance.
• Steel grade.
• Manufacturer.
• Welding quality.
• The thickness of the insulation.

How to install

In the installation, ready-made pipes are used, which will need to be assembled or made by yourself. To make them with your own hands, you will need a special tool and experience.

The finished parts of the chimney are assembled very simply, and even non-specialists can do it. The parts should be inserted into each other, taking into account an overlap of 7 cm. The resulting construction will be airtight as a perfect factory fit is used and will prevent condensation and soot formation. Cleaning of such structures is done quite rarely, and the work is simplified.

How to isolate

Volgoizol is considered an excellent insulating material for chimney; heating mains and air ducts are insulated with it. It contains no harmful components that would be released when heated.

The most optimal way for a chimney for a bath is a sandwich. When using stainless steel with a layer of basalt wool and additionally use it for the outer contour. This will reduce the heating of the chimney and prevent condensation from forming. After all, he is able to penetrate the furnace.

And when using such insulation, there will be no rapid cooling of the tubes, therefore, soot will not settle, but it will easily come out.

Chimney cleaning

There is mechanical cleaning when, for work, you need a stiff brush or a scraper that has a link handle. Climb onto the roof and clean the chimney from the outside. To prevent soot from getting inside the room, the stove must be covered with a dense material.

There is another option for self-cleaning the chimney - this is the use of aspen. It heats the stove, during which a lot of heat is released and this leads to an increase in draft. The pipe cleans itself safely.

You can also use chemical properties, but they harm the environment in the circle.

How to do it yourself

• We prepare holes in the roof and ceiling and fix the adapter with a metal sheet. Fill the voids with a heat insulator.
• We equip the passage in the ceiling and roof.
• We connect the pipes to the stove. We protect the close location of the chimney to the wall with a metal sheet on the wall.
• We bring the pipe to the roof.
• We equip the junction with an apron and ensure tightness.
• We cover the top of the chimney with a head.

Required materials and tools

• Level.
• Drill.
• Screwdriver with a set of screwdrivers.
• Roulette.
• Jigsaw.
• Metal apron.
• Metal pipes and clamps.
• Adapters.
• Mushroom on the head.
• Heat-resistant sealant.
• Aluminum tape.
• Basalt wool with foil surface.

Blueprints

To prepare a drawing, the dimensions of the diameter and height of the chimney, as well as the number of parts, are determined.

The power of the furnace or the fuel burned in one hour determines the size of the diameter.

The height should be chosen according to the SNiP regulations, but not less than 5 meters. How much the height should go above the roof is shown in the drawing - these are also regulated values.

Step by step guide

1. We prepare a hole for the chimney. In our case, we are building a bath from scratch, so our passage has already been prepared. There will be a hole in the roof and in the ceiling for the internal chimney. We equip the external element near the stove.
2. We make a hole in a square shape of 0.45x0.45 m. You can use sheets of 0.5x0.5 m and make a hole in them along our pipe and prepare holes for fastening at the corners of the sheet.
3. We make the box from 4 sheets, increase its height by 10 cm, compared to the thickness of the overlap. Moreover, we choose the length of each side equal to 0.4 m. We fasten all the parts and insulate the surface. For this we use basalt wool, which has a foil surface. Do not forget to glue the joints where we use aluminum tape.
4. We install a metal apron on the roof and start assembling the pipe.
5. We make markings for fasteners with a step of 0.2 m and prepare holes with a drill.
6. A single-layer pipe 50 cm long, which enters the firebox, will be attached primarily to the wall and the outlet hole.
7. We proceed to the installation of the gate. Next, a single-layer tube that goes into the adapter and fix all the parts to the wall. We have a hole above the stove, slightly shifted, so we'll use our knee. If your version also works, you should know that the horizontal tube has a length of one linear meter. Therefore, it is impossible to use more than three knees in the design.
8. The tube, which is located in the adapter, is filled with basalt wool with a foil surface.
9. The next piece, the sandwich tube and the final piece to the street.
10. We cover the outer tube with a protective fungus, this will protect it from snow and rain.
11. If you need to install an external chimney, it is done in the same way, with some difference. We make a hole not in the ceiling, but in the wall, for the output of the knee and the arrangement of the main tube. We install a tee on the main part from the street side. Next come all the details of the chimney and are securely attached to the wall. Sandwich tube, in this version it is used up to the roof. Finite element This type can be represented as a sandwich tube. When the inner part removes the combustion products, and the outer part is a protective shell.
    

    Price

    The cost of the finished product depends on the material chosen and the tube diameter. For example, a one-sided stainless steel tube, per running meter will be in the range of 384-498 rubles. Sandwich tube - 676-7720 rubles. The knee is estimated as the cost of one meter of tube. Tee - 1540-7700 rubles. On average, all the devices will cost 115,000 rubles. Ceramic chimney is much more expensive.

    How to choose

    • Correctly select the structure of the chimney (section, shape, material). The wrong choice can lead to fire, backdraft, smoke.
    • Height and diameter.
    • Ease of mounting.
    • Reliability and safety.
    • The quality of the internal surfaces of the chimney.
    • Ease of maintenance.
    • Steel grade.
    • Manufacturer.
    • Welding quality.
    • The thickness of the insulation.
    

    How to install

    In the installation, ready-made pipes are used, which will need to be assembled or made by yourself. To make them with your own hands, you will need a special tool and experience.

    The finished parts of the chimney are assembled very simply, and even non-specialists can do it. The parts should be inserted into each other, taking into account an overlap of 7 cm. The resulting construction will be airtight as a perfect factory fit is used and will prevent condensation and soot formation. Cleaning of such structures is done quite rarely, and the work is simplified.

    How to isolate

    Volgoizol is considered an excellent insulating material for chimney; heating mains and air ducts are insulated with it. It contains no harmful components that would be released when heated.

    The most optimal way for a chimney for a bath is a sandwich. When using stainless steel with a layer of basalt wool and additionally use it for the outer contour. This will reduce the heating of the chimney and prevent condensation from forming. After all, he is able to penetrate the furnace.

    And when using such insulation, there will be no rapid cooling of the tubes, therefore, soot will not settle, but it will easily come out.

    Chimney cleaning

    There is mechanical cleaning when, for work, you need a stiff brush or a scraper that has a link handle. Climb onto the roof and clean the chimney from the outside. To prevent soot from getting inside the room, the stove must be covered with a dense material.

    There is another option for self-cleaning the chimney - this is the use of aspen. It heats the stove, during which a lot of heat is released and this leads to an increase in draft. The pipe cleans itself safely.

    You can also use chemical properties, but they harm the environment in the circle.

    How to do it yourself

    • We prepare holes in the roof and ceiling and fix the adapter with a metal sheet. Fill the voids with a heat insulator.
    • We equip the passage in the ceiling and roof.
    • We connect the pipes to the stove. We protect the close location of the chimney to the wall with a metal sheet on the wall.
    • We bring the pipe to the roof.
    • We equip the junction with an apron and ensure tightness.
    • We cover the top of the chimney with a head.

    Required materials and tools

    • Level.
    • Drill.
    • Screwdriver with a set of screwdrivers.
    • Roulette.
    • Jigsaw.
    • Metal apron.
    • Metal pipes and clamps.
    • Adapters.
    • Mushroom on the head.
    • Heat-resistant sealant.
    • Aluminum tape.
    • Basalt wool with a foil surface.

    Blueprints

    To prepare a drawing, the dimensions of the diameter and height of the chimney, as well as the number of parts, are determined.

    The power of the furnace or the fuel burned in one hour determines the size of the diameter.

    The height should be chosen according to the SNiP regulations, but not less than 5 meters. How much the height should go above the roof is shown in the drawing - these are also regulated values.

    Step by step guide

    1. We prepare a hole for the chimney. In our case, we are building a bath from scratch, so our passage has already been prepared. There will be a hole in the roof and in the ceiling for the internal chimney. We equip the external element near the stove.
    2. We make a hole in a square shape of 0.45x0.45 m. You can use sheets of 0.5x0.5 m and make a hole in them along our pipe and prepare holes for fastening at the corners of the sheet.
    3. We make the box from 4 sheets, increase its height by 10 cm, compared to the thickness of the overlap. Moreover, we choose the length of each side equal to 0.4 m. We fasten all the parts and insulate the surface. For this we use basalt wool, which has a foil surface. Do not forget to glue the joints where we use aluminum tape.
    4. We install a metal apron on the roof and start assembling the pipe.
    5. We make markings for fasteners with a step of 0.2 m and prepare holes with a drill.
    6. A single-layer pipe 50 cm long, which enters the firebox, will be attached primarily to the wall and the outlet hole.
    7. We proceed to the installation of the gate. Next, a single-layer tube that goes into the adapter and fix all the parts to the wall. We have a hole above the stove, slightly shifted, so we'll use our knee. If your version also works, you should know that the horizontal tube has a length of one linear meter. Therefore, it is impossible to use more than three knees in the design.
    8. The tube, which is located in the adapter, is filled with basalt wool with a foil surface.
    9. The next piece, the sandwich tube and the final piece to the street.
    10. We cover the outer tube with a protective fungus, this will protect it from snow and rain.
    11. If you need to install an external chimney, it is done in the same way, with some difference. We make a hole not in the ceiling, but in the wall, for the output of the knee and the arrangement of the main tube. We install a tee on the main part from the street side. Next come all the details of the chimney and are securely attached to the wall. Sandwich tube, in this version it is used up to the roof. A single layer tube can be used as a finite element - this is the main difference.

Tips / Recommendations

• Polyfoam is considered to be a good insulating material, but only if the bath is insulated, it is not suitable, since it emits harmful substances when heated. Therefore, the best insulation is mineral wool, which is easy to use and more economical.
• First, you need to prepare protective metal sheets for bringing the pipe to the street side, in order to cover some sections of the ceiling and walls. They will protect the area where the heat will be exposed.
• Using different pipe and outlet diameters will require adapters and will need to be installed first.