The cross of the tank of the washing machine serves as a link between it and the drum, therefore it constantly experiences loads. It is made of soft metal, so it often deforms and breaks.
In this article we will tell:
- how to change the cross;
- whether it is worth doing repairs by yourself.
Why the spider breaks
Breakage does not occur abruptly - before that you can hear noise and hum during operation, which indicates the wear of the bearings. When they are erased, the destruction of the cross begins.
Also, the cause of the malfunction may be hard water, which provokes scum. Less common factory marriage.
Is the repair of the frog of the washing machine actual for such damage? Follow our instructions to make it right.
Self-repair
To inspect and check the condition of the crosspiece, it is necessary to remove and disassemble the pot of the styralki. In some models, you can get to it through the top of the machine, in others - through the front panel.
The most difficult process of dismantling is with the removal of the front wall. What should be done:
- Shut off the water supply.
- Disconnect the machine from the mains.
- Drain the remaining water by unscrewing the intake hose and drain filter. The latter is located behind the hatch, at the bottom of the front panel.
- Push the AGA away from the wall.
How to disassemble a washing machine
First of all, we remove the top panel CM:
- Remove the screws securing the cover from the back.
- Push it to the opposite side of yourself.
- Lift up, set aside.
Go to the control panel:
- Get out the dispenser for detergents. Open the tray, press the catch in the center, pull toward you.
- Unscrew the bolts that are behind the tray and on the other side of the panel.
- Slotted screwdriver, unclamp plastic latches along the perimeter of the panel.
- Memorize or mark the location of the wiring on the module.
- Disconnect the wires, set the panel aside.
It's time to open the lower socle panel. If you have already done this, when the filter is unscrewed, then proceed to the next step.
Disconnect the manhole seal (cuff) from the outer wall. For this:
- Pry the spring clip with a flat-blade screwdriver and remove it. There is a collar under the cuff. If it is plastic on your stiralk, you need to release the latch.
- Unscrew the two screws that secure the lock of the hatch.
- Run the arm under the cuff and remove the lock from the side.
- Disconnect all connectors from it.
Unscrew the top and bottom all the screws that hold the front panel. Lift and remove it.
Go to the top of the SM. It is necessary to remove the powder receptacle:
- Take the pliers and unfasten the clamp, which secures the receiver tube to the tank. Disconnect the pipe.
- Then you can disconnect the inlet valve hoses, or you can remove the powder collector along with the valve. To do this, unscrew the fastening bolt on the rear panel.
Remove all counterweights by unscrewing the bolts.
You can proceed with the dismantling of the rear panel. You just need to unscrew the screws around the perimeter. After removing the drive belt, pay attention to the heater. In your model, it can be in front or behind. Disconnect the wiring from it.
We disassemble further:
- Disconnect the pressure switch from the tank.
- Unclip the drain pipe clamp and disconnect from the tank. If the clamp is fixed with a screw - unscrew it first.
- Disconnect the motor wiring, unscrew its bolts and pull it out of the housing.
- Unscrew the shock absorber bolts.
Excellent! Now the tank hangs on the spring hooks. Remove it and pull it through the front of the CM or through the top, depending on the brand.
Disassembling the tank
Putting the tank on a flat surface, remove the cuff, pulling off the inner yoke. Turn the tank over, stop the pulley in place and unscrew the central bolt. Remove the pulley.
Then unscrew the screws around the perimeter of the tank. They hold the two pieces together, so after removing them you can remove one half.
To get the drum from the tank, tap the hammer slightly with a hammer. Now you can see if you need to repair the crosspiece of the washing machine yourself. If it's a matter of worn bearings, buy new parts and install them.
Be careful! Purchase bearings only for a particular model of the machine. Unsuitable items wear out more quickly, which leads to a repetitive repair.
Typical problems and their elimination
When replacing, the user may encounter such an unpleasantness as the sticking of the bearing to the shaft of the crosspiece of the drum of the washing machine. How to be?
Do not even think of knocking the bearing with a hammer. So you risk damaging the shaft, which is fraught with the purchase of new parts.
Here's what the wizard is advised to do in such cases:
- Using a tool - a grinder or a drill - follow the cuts on the bearings. Work carefully, so as not to damage the shaft.
- In the cuts, insert a chisel and knock it off the shaft in parts.
What other obstacles can there be? Some manufacturers use cross-pieces with a shelf on washing machines. It happens that when knocking out the old bearing, the inner part of the cage goes away, and the outer one remains, held by the shelf, see the figure below.
There is no way to get it. In order not to change the entire crosspiece, it is recommended to reinstall the inner part and then pull out the entire bearing.
Progress
Take a new bearing, suitable for the CMA model. You need to disassemble it. Operate consistently:
- Remove the separator. Insert a thin screwdriver into the hole, hit it lightly with a hammer until the separator arches.
- Turn over the bearing, poddite the separator and remove. Now before you balls, they do not hold back, so they move freely.
- Slide all the balls in one direction, poke the inner holder with a screwdriver and pull it out. The bearing is dismantled.
It is necessary to degrease all the parts and install in the remaining crocheting clip.
How to replace:
- Install the four balls in the cage, then install the inner cage of a smaller size.
- Carefully place one more ball. Usually in their bearings from 5 to 7 pieces. The main thing is that the inner cage is firmly held. So if five balls are not enough, install the rest.
- The balls are evenly distributed, the gaps between them are tamped with foil.
- On top, the homemade part is poured with suitable glue, for strength.
- Lubricate the outer cage of the part that has stuck to the crosspiece.
- After 15 minutes, rotate the drum with the other side.
- Using a knockout and a hammer, knock the part out of the socket.
You freed the seat. It remains to clean it, and install new elements.
If it's not a bearing, we'll show you how to remove the cross from the drum for the washing machine and replace it.
The part is fastened with three or six screws. You just need to unscrew them to remove the cross. Purchase a new part and install in the reverse order.
The situation becomes more complicated if the crosspiece is welded to the drum in your model. Then you have to completely change the drum.
The repair process is time-consuming for a beginner. But if you decide to cope on your own, the video will help you:
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