How to replace bearings in a washing machine

If the bearing in the washing machine has worn out or disintegrated, then the technique will begin to hum and malfunction. For normal operation and preservation of other parts and parts, an urgent replacement of the bearing in the washing machine is required. In order not to buy a new machine, you need to know whether you can replace the bearing yourself and how it's done.

In the case of a bearing, you can go in two ways:

  1. Seek professional help from a professional. This option frightens the owners of AGR, since the cost of repair can be 30, and even 50% of the price for the entire machine.
  2. Repair yourself. So you will be able to save on repairs, if the work is done correctly.

Next, we describe how to replace the bearing, give recommendations and useful advice.

Content of the material:

  • 1Preparation
  • 2Disassembly process
    • 2.1Dismantling or cutting a tank
  • 3The replacement process
  • 4Assembly


Before you start the repair, you need to stock up on parts and tools. You will need:

  • Spanners - it is desirable to have a whole set in order to have access to different sizes.
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  • Pliers.
  • A hairpin or rod made of metal is not thicker than a pencil.
  • Two types of screwdrivers: thin and cross.
  • Sealant.
  • Grease with water-repellent properties.
  • Camera. This is necessary in order to capture the process of disassembly, and then collect all without much difficulty.

Also you will need original parts: a pair of bearings and an oil seal. If you do not know what parts are needed for your car, you can first disassemble the tank, extract the parts, and go with them to the store - the seller will give you an equivalent.

Important! Give preference to the original details that correspond to the brand and model of your CM. Only this guarantees a long service life of the equipment.

Disassembly process

Prepared for repair, you can begin disassembly. The disassembly diagram is as follows:

  1. Remove the top cover. It is fixed with two screws from the back of the case. Slide the cover back, lift up and set.
  2. Remove two more panels: top and bottom. The instrument panel can be removed only after removing the plastic cuvette for the powder.
    To remove the fence, extend it to the end and hold the button in the center, pulling the cuvette toward you. The instrument panel is fixed with screws (their number and location depends on the model of the machine). Unscrew the fasteners and remove the device.
    Under it you will find a control board - from it there is a whole bundle of wires. You can unplug them all, after photographing the contacts, or carefully hang the panel on the service hook.
    The lower panel is removed with a thin screwdriver or other object, with which you can open its latches.
  3. Remove the manhole cuff. Without this action, you do not remove the front part of the case, which is extremely necessary for disassembling the machine. The elastic band is fastened with a yoke, find it and hook it with a slotted screwdriver to remove it. Spread the loose part of the cuff inside the body.
  4. Remove the front of the case by unscrewing the screws. When removing the panel, do not make sharp movements so as not to break off the wire.
  5. Remove the UBL wire, set the panel aside.
  6. Disconnect other parts: the washing detergent box, by twisting the bolts. Together with the powder intake you will remove the fill valve. But before removing the wiring from the valve and disconnect the nipples, unfolding the clamps.
  7. Gently pull off the drain pipe, loosening the clamp. In some models of machines access to the branch pipe is provided through the bottom, so you may have to put the CM on its side.
  8. Disconnect the heater from the wiring (the location of the heater in different models is different - it can be front, rear and even top).
  9. Remove the wiring from the electric motor.
  10. If you see that the drain pump is blocking you, disconnect the wires and remove the pump.
  11. Unscrew the counterweights (large and small "stone" at the top and bottom of the tank). These elements can also have a different layout - to be installed both in front and behind.
  12. Disconnect the pressure switch connector.
  13. Remove the shock absorbers by unscrewing the fasteners (you need a wrench, but it is most convenient to work with a head with an extension).
  14. Remove the tank from the springs. The tank is not too heavy, but it's uncomfortable to remove, so it's better to ask for help. One man holds the tank, the second detaches the springs. The tank is removed together with the electric motor, which can be removed after removing the tank.
  15. Unscrew the shock absorbers remaining on the tank.

The next step is to replace the tank bearing. We will consider in detail the scheme and sequence of actions.

Dismantling or cutting a tank

Access to the bearings can only be obtained by dismantling the tank. If the tank halves are bolted or latched, no complications will arise. But if the bearings are in a non-separable tank, you have to saw it.

In this case, pre-drill the holes, through which you will then fasten the tank, you will also need a good water-resistant adhesive. Washing in a glued tank is risky, but it is easier and safer to cut a tank than to buy new parts or a new machine.

Sawing can be done with a simple hacksaw.

Important! Dividing the tank into two parts, clean the front half of it from the debris, once the opportunity presented itself.

Then follow these instructions:

  • Remove the drum. To the pulley does not interfere with this, you need to remove it. Remove the bolt holding the pulley of the drum, remove it from the shaft and set it aside. Unscrew the bolt screwed into the shaft again so that, knocking out the drum, do not break the shaft and do not complicate the repair.
  • Taking an ordinary hammer, applying a little effort, hit the shaft to knock it out. If the shaft goes easily, then calmly continue to apply light strokes. If you see that your efforts are futile - unscrew the factory bolt and take any unnecessary, because after deformation it will have to be thrown out. When the shaft reaches the cap of the bolt, remove the fastener and remove the drum.
  • Carry out a thorough inspection of the bushing and shaft. If you delayed the repair for a long time, the elements could wear out, and you will need to replace the crosspiece. The integrity of the shaft is checked by the presence of a workpiece on it - to see it, thoroughly wipe the part. Wear new bearings on the shaft, if there is any play, the crosspiece and the shaft must be replaced.

  • The bushing needs to be checked for debris or grooves, which should not be there. If the output is too much, it is better to replace the bushing with a new one.

The replacement process

Replacement of bearings and stuffing box begins with the extraction of old parts:

  1. In order to get the oil seal, arm with a thin screwdriver and pry the part.
  2. Using a rod or pin and a small hammer, knock out the bearings. The hairpin needs to be moved every time to another place. As the bearing is two-row, the big one is knocked out from the outside, the small one is inside.

Important! In order not to damage the tank when knocking out, it needs to be supported on the knee.

When you get the parts, clean the seats and the back half of the tank. They must shine and be perfectly clean.

Stiralka ready to be replaced, you can proceed:

  1. Unpack the repair kit.
  2. Insert first a small, then a large bearing. Scoring should be the same as knocked out - light blows in different places. The process goes on until you hear a ringing - it means that the part is reliable "sat down".
  3. Fill the oil seal with grease and install. If you can not do this manually, you can also score it, but be careful not to damage the parts.

Important! If you could not find a suitable lubricant, it is undesirable, but you can use the car version of "Litol-24".

If you have a machine with a top load, the process will be somewhat different. We offer to watch videos how to replace bearings (and other parts) in a vertical washing machine:



At the end of the work, connect the tank. If possible, change the seal or seal the seams with a sealant. In general, the assembly goes in the reverse order:

  • Assembling the tank and installing it.
  • Attaching all the details, connecting wires and chips.
  • Installation of panels and covers.
  • Connect to the communications.
  • Test wash.

If you took photos or shot a video of the disassembly process, this will help you collect everything as it was.

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