Malfunctions of washing machines by General Electric

Washing machines General Electric liked by users because of its reliability, a huge selection of functions (up to 19 programs) and a high quality of assembly and parts. Also, manufacturers took care of the attractive and ergonomic design and excellent performance of all electronic and mechanical components. Repair of washing machines General Electric - a rare phenomenon.

However, it is the complexity of the assembly and high processability that provoke various breakages over time. About what kind of breakdown is typical for GE machines, what they are expressing, and how to eliminate them, we'll talk further.

Causes of breakdowns of GM General Electric

For common reasons that cause malfunctions of the GE's washing machines, the specialists of the service centers include:

• Incorrect primary installation.
• Voltage drops in the mains, frequent power failures, which disable the electronics of the machine.
• Washing powder and rinse aid of low quality, excess powder.
• Drain the filter of the drainage of water.
• Violation of the operating rules prescribed in the user manual.

To reduce the impact of harmful effects, it is worthwhile to connect the AGR to the network through an RCD and a voltage regulator. Water softeners are at your choice: they will not harm, but without fanaticism.

From the filter drain plugs only two actions will help:

1. Check the pockets of clothing before washing for small items.
2. Periodically clean the filter of the washing machine GE.

Signs of failure in GE machines

Due to the signs of malfunctions, which appear mainly during washing, rinsing or spinning, it is possible to understand if it is possible to repair the washing machine of GE himself.

If the failure is not severe, you can repair yourself. With complex breakdowns, you will have to call the master. But first, let's look at how the electrician's stiralk signals a breakdown:

• Under the machine there was water - there was a leak. Most often this is caused by the rupture of the hatch cuff, the depressurization of the connection of hoses and nozzles.
• The AGR knocks at work. If there are no excess objects in the drum that could cause a knock and noise, then, most likely, you will have to change the bearings and seals.
• After completing the user-selected program, the machine does not drain the water. This is caused by the clogging of the drain pump. Cleaning the filters and pumps will help solve the problem. Pump replacement is necessary if it is burnt out.
• Water is not heated. This may involve a thermal sensor or a control board, but most often the culprit is a thermoelectric heater (TEN). It breaks down because of the scale that remains on it due to the hardness of the water, or simply squanders its resource. In any case, the heater should be replaced in order to avoid a short circuit and a possible fire.
• Water is continuously fed into the tank. This is caused by a violation of the position (or initially wrong installation) of the drain hose. Checking the level of the hose suspension will help to eliminate breakage. If it does not help, you will need more serious repairs.
• Failures in the control system. Most likely, the electronic control unit (controller) suffered. Such a breakdown is almost impossible to eliminate by yourself, so it is better to contact a specialist.

Many of the breakdowns described above, you can fix without the help of a wizard, and then we will take a closer look at the repair instructions - with photos and videos.

Determine the breakdown of GE by error code

In GE washing machines equipped with an electronic display, fault codes can be notified of a breakdown. The most frequent error codes are: IE, 7E, E, dE, UE and OE.

Let's briefly consider the essence of the errors:

• IE - the error of the pressure switch (water level sensor). You need to clean the hydraulic system of the sensor or replace it.
• 7E - no water is supplied to the drum. To begin with, it is worth checking the availability of water in the water supply system and making sure that there is pressure. If the water pipe is in order, you may need to replace the fill valve or pressure sensor.
• E - water is in the drum. For water to leave the tank, it may be necessary to clean the drain system. If the blockage is not your case, then the drain pump, pressure switch or control board could fail.
• dE - error indicates an unlocked hatch. You should try to press the door tight. If the error is repeated, you may need to change the sunroof (LOCK).
• UE - imbalance of the drum. Perhaps, the laundry got into one big lump, which caused an imbalance. Setting the machine according to the level should help. Otherwise, you will need a complete disassembly of the case and complex repairs.
• OE - the machine has filled a lot of water in the tank. It is worth trying to clean the pressure gauge connector. If it does not help, you have to replace the sensor with a new one.

Repair of washing machines GE

In this article, we will consider the self-repair of General Electric machines based on the most common models: WWH 5602/6602/7602/8602 vww.

General Electric does not heat water

As we have said, this breakdown is most often caused by the failure of a temperature sensor or electric heater. How to check and replace the sensor and heater:

1. Disconnect the AGR from the mains.
2. Remove the back panel - usually the heater is located behind the machine (and the sensor is integrated in the heater). If the heater is in front, remove the front panel.
   
3. The heater is located under the drum. Remove the drive belt from the pulley if it interferes, and disconnect the wires coming from the sensor and heater (remember, take pictures and mark them).
4. Unscrew the nut fixing the TEN in the grooves, but not completely - it should be at the very end of the bolt. Then press it in together with the hairpin.
   
5. Grasp the pins and pull the TEN towards you, slightly shaking from side to side. Perhaps you will have to make an effort.

If your model is located on the front, look at this video:

If the manufacturer has provided the location of the heater from the rear, you will be helped by another video:

How to check the sensor and TEN General Electic

In principle, the state of the heater can be judged visually visually. If it has acquired a scum, then it definitely needs to be changed. But if it's all right with the tune, it's worth checking it with a tester - maybe the problem is not in it, but in the sensor, which also needs to ring.

The heater is checked as follows:

1. Take the tester and select the resistance measurement mode.
2. Place the test leads on the heater contacts.
   
3. The nominal resistance should be 20-25 ohms.

If the heater is OK, check the sensor as follows:

1. Remove the thermistor from the heater and place it in a glass of water, at a temperature of 30 degrees. Measure the resistance.
2. Then place it in boiling water (95 degrees).
   
3. In the first case, the resistance should be, kOhm, in the second - 9 kOhm. If the data is different, the sensor is out of order.

If you need to replace the sensor, change it. If the TEN is broken - buy a new one and install it in place of the old one.

Important! Masters recommend changing the heater together with a rubber gasket that keeps it in the groove.

Self-repair of other GE breakdowns differs little from SM repair of other brands. Guided by common principles, it is possible to replace almost any knot of stylalki, and restore its working capacity without the help of a master.