How to make a chimney in a private house with his own hands: design options and their implementation

Chimney - a necessary part of the heating system of a private house. It ensures proper operation of the furnace or boiler, organizes removal of harmful products of combustion outside the housing.

We will try to figure out how to build a chimney with his hands to heating communications are safe for people and for the house.

The requirements for the chimney

By installing heating devices impose the requirements set forth in the standard documentation.

Mounting devices is regulated by SNiP 2.04.05-91 and DBN V.2.5-20-2001. Also, prior to the preparation of the project, it is desirable to study the materials of the heating systems (SNIP 41-01-2003), about devices compensated (NPB 252-98), the technical conditions for the operation of thermal units (GOST 9817-95), on the rules and norms of the flue channel operation (VDPO).

chimney design and features of the assembly should be fully comply with the requirements specified in SNIP, otherwise not get the act of checking facilities, which is issued after commissioning

Part of requirements is addressed specifically to a chimney device. construction design can be anything, but the manufacture of the material must be non-flammable.

As the materials used for the construction of chimneys, can be:

• steel;
• ceramics;
• brick.

Without exception, all structures are the teams, and the assembly - the fragmentary as the chimney passes through several rooms (eg, bathroom and attic).

In order to meet the construction requirements of fire safety, it is necessary to calculate its parameters, as well as select size all component parts. When installing plant equipment is necessary to fulfill all the recommendations set out in the instructions, including how to build and how to mount parts.

The document spelled out certain provisions, which must also be considered, such as:

• chimney may be any length, but not less than 5 m (height vents - no less);
• the pipe section must correspond to the inlet of the generator, or exceed it;
• for each heat source requires a separate chimney;
• Air flow velocity within the pipe - 15 m / s to 20 m / s;
• pipe thickness is determined by manufacturing material (normal for steel - not less than 0.5 mm);
• for regular inspection and cleaning activities for chimneys equipped with pockets (recesses) depth 0.25 m;
• the maximum number of turns of the chimney - 3;
• the radius of curvature must be greater than the channel diameter;
• chimney height above the roof of the roof structure is regulated: a flat - 0,5 m; above the roof by 0.5 if it is located at a distance of 1.5 m (or less) from the ridge; equal to or greater ridge axis when located at a distance of 1.5-3 m.

The procedure for erecting the structure - always from the bottom up, i.e. from the heat source (boiler, furnace) through the roof covering. The modular structures each subsequent item in the previous pipe administered. Working temperature sealants used to fix the parts to be at least 1000º. connections from the outside is equipped with clamps, mounting material must not fall into the chimney.

For mounting tee provided support brackets and to avoid deflection channel every 2 m on the wall is necessary to fix the fixing-clamps for pipe support

In regulatory documents identified the places where it is allowed to install chimneys. Wall material must be non-flammable, and if this condition is not met (for example, in the building with wooden walls), when installed in order to protect to use Shaft mounted or crown pipe.

Instructions masonry chimney brick

The most ancient chimneys, known to mankind, arranged in stone, and then brick, together with the first furnace. Natural material and to this day is used for the construction of heating systems in private homes. The main stages of the construction of a brick chimney.

Properties brick chimney structure

There are two options for connecting brick chimney. First, a lighter, set directly on the oven, close the second construct and connect the adapter. The fact that the weight of a brick chimney height of 5 m or more is large enough, and each heat generator can sustain it. For the construction of a pipe it requires from 500 to 800 bricks (depending on the height of the ceiling and roof), the weight of each of them - 3.8 kg.

In any case, the chimney - not just within the hollow structure, and a complex structure consisting of several functional parts.

The working part of the tube, located below the ceiling - it is an internal chimney. It starts immediately from the surface of the furnace (boiler) and ends near the ceiling grid (4 rows for masonry)

When passing through the flue ceiling overlap satisfied fuzz, which is a thickening. Next thickening like configuration constructing the transition pipe through the roof. It is called "otter". Part of the pipe to fuzz otter - an external chimney. Above the roof rises the neck, ending head part (alternative deflector).

The main condition is that the safety distance from the inner channel through which pass the hot smoke and gases to the surface walls and ceiling elements. It is equal to 0, 25 m - this is exactly the length of the building element, the red solid bricks.

The second condition concerns the location of the chimney. It is necessary to build vertically, the maximum possible error - 3 degrees. And the third condition - is the perfect tightness of masonry, which should not be through holes and crevices.

The dimensions of the chimney depends on the capacity of the heater. Usually one selected from conventional clutches: with the smallest cross-section - "four" (12.5 cm h12,5 cm) rectangular - "five" (25.0 cm x 12.5 cm) or greater - "six (25 cm x 25 cm). The latter option is preferable for Russian stoves, rectangular - for fireplaces. For cookers small capacity suitable first decision.

Material selection and preparation of the solution

The furnace is equipped with stovepipe tiled stove. If another unit, then build on the pipe after installation. For the construction of brick and mortar is required, as well as tools: trowel, plumb line and a special hammer for tamping. Bricks pre-soaked. For device fuzz and otter bricks required part size ½, 1 / 4,1 / 8, ¾.

To part of the bricks were flat, and cutting process takes place without much dust, we recommend using a circular saw with a diamond interchangeable circles

Ordinary mortar for masonry not suitable, necessary, the mixture of clay and sand. This is justified by the characteristics of the clay, which has a coefficient of linear expansion close parameters bricks. Depending on the type of clay (lean or fatty) its ratio to the sand may vary: 1: 3 or 1: 4.

Previously prepared clay - soaked in water and allowed to stand for about 3 days. Before use, the material should have a consistency resembling sour liquid, and have no foreign inclusions. There are specific requirements and to the sand. The best option - earthy, with grains of 0.9-1.0 mm.

The clay and sand are mixed in small portions in the course of laying. Sometimes it is necessary to add water. The quality of the solution is easy to determine by how it is in contact with a trowel: mass should leave marks on the surface, but not drain from it and not stick large pieces. If you have problems with self-preparation of the mixture, you can buy ready-made.

The procedure for laying the main parts

If the boiler or furnace is finished, you can begin to build a brick chimney. Operation Traditional: applying a solution, then the installation of brick, adjusting it relative to the adjacent parts with his hands and a small hammer. The vertical arrangement of check after installation of each row with a plumb line. The width of the wall - 12.5 cm. Straight pipe end element number of 4 to fuzz - expansion in a ceiling.

To extend the wall thickness must be added to 4 rows one above the other to each successive shifted by 1/8. Which parts of the brick is better to take - it is shown in the diagram

It is necessary to eliminate the pressure on masonry ceiling structure, so the overlap between the left and fuzz slit width of 2-3 cm. It is used for mounting an insulating material such as mineral wool slabs.

Again passes through the attic of the straight tube portion, and then make the otter. Its bottom row should be laid, when the outer edge of the chimney went through the roof. At this stage to prepare a solution frequently used cement, more robust and durable than clay. Otter composed of 6 rows, each next indent - 1/8 of the entire brick. Openings around pipes and insulate the cover of steel roofing sheets.

The next stage again straight - neck, crowned headroom.

The shape and size of tip may vary, but the traditional option - it is two series, the first of which is shifted by 1/8, the second - to ½ of the whole brick

Deflector needed to smoke is not returned back into the tube. Along the perimeter of the well head mount brackets for the hood - rain protection. Often caps are used as an element of decor, so they give an interesting and beautiful shape.

How to make a ceramic chimney

Prefabricated chimneys of ceramics have become popular due to the strength, safe composition, environmental friendliness, ease of installation. They borrowed the best specifications in the steel and brick patterns. The only negative - the high cost of kits. Consider how the chimney ceramic device in a private home.

The design of precast

Unlike the brick chimney, ceramic assembled already ready elements of the gluing together of special solution. Make yourself part of the ceramic is not possible to acquire a construction ready kits. Manufacturers are standard sets from which to assemble the chimney to the fireplace, furnace or boiler.

ceramic chimney - part of the tube in cross section. Pipe sizes from different manufacturers are different, one of the standards - 3 pieces per 1 m of the chimney

In addition to ceramic tubes in the kit includes the following parts:

• a base element with a tap for condensate;
• item for connection with a socket (angle of 90º or 45º);
• Audit chamber with a door;
• lightweight blocks for outer frame;
• set for the external clearance (on the roof);
• incombustible insulating material for mounting;
• paste adhesive.

Additionally required hardware (brackets) and non-combustible material for lining: plaster, natural stone, ceramic or clinker tiles.

assembly and installation rules

By installing and operating standards ceramic chimney, it must be not more than 2 m from the heat source (the closer, the better), as far as possible from the walls and ceilings made of flammable materials must also not cross bearing elements.

During installation, you must adhere to these rules:

• prerequisite - the construction of the foundation, covered with flame retardant;
• installation start from the bottom - the cap, then subsequently continue in the direction of the roof;
• parts are glued together with a special glue, which is included in the kit;
• pipe diameter must be larger than the outlet of the heat generator;
• mineral wool is used for insulation and plaster;
• the junction pipe and the roof to protect the metal apron;
• If the roof is covered with a combustible material, it is necessary to equip the spark arrester.

If the flue duct is installed without fasteners for more than 3.9 m, it must be reinforced with steel rods. Especially for this purpose in the details of the pipe at the corners of openings are provided.

One embodiment of channel ceramic structure. Thermal insulation layer increases the degree of protection, the outer liner serves as a barrier between the combustion products and building elements

The upper part of the tip equipped with an umbrella to protect against rain, dust and strong winds.

Nuances installation and connection of pipes

The elements that collect the flue is made from ceramic with the addition of chamotte - such composition resistant to high temperatures, and the details thereof have a long life. They can not be used as stand-alone units, be sure to need external protection.

The lower part of the chimney - base - is equipped with an opening for discharging condensate which is formed in the derivation of the combustion products. Accumulated fluid moves in the sewer, decal in advance. It should be remembered that the moisture out of the chimney is detrimental to the septic tank bacteria, therefore, to collect the liquid is better to prepare a separate container.

mounted on the base top tee with inspection aperture. During fuel combustion port is closed door. The main purpose of the tee - possible to inspect and clean the chimney

Elements mounted on one another according to the instructions, without changing the order specified by the manufacturer. Compliance with the chimney and the house size settings should be checked in advance.

How to prepare and apply adhesive

To parts of the chimney were tightly connected, use a special acid-resistant glue. This dense mixture which is prepared by hand from a dry powder and water in a ratio of 7: 1, preferably at room temperature. First, the solution appears unusually dry, but approximately 7-8 minutes after it acquires the desired paste form.

The resulting mixture must be quickly and accurately applied to the field junction pipe, trying to use a half hours. Then he loses the necessary properties, and plant dry out a lot of water can not be

One of the nuances of the glue application is pre-wetting of the ceramic surface. Save the adhesive mass can not be - only sealed seams filled guarantee the full functioning of the chimney. Adhesive residues must be removed: from the inside - not to accumulate soot on the outside - for aesthetic purposes.

If subsequently there is a desire to mask the tube wall decorative, technical inspection hole should be available.

Apparatus metal sandwich chimney

Steel chimneys are popular in the construction industry and for the improvement of the private sector. Installation of the assembly resembles a ceramic structure, accordingly, there is easier than building a brick chimney. Let us consider in more detail how to make a metal chimney, avoiding mistakes.

Materials for setting the metal structure

Sandwich chimney system is a sealed tube and adapter leading from the heat generator to nadkrovelnomu space. It can take place inside the building (internal) and outside along the wall (external).

Sandwich tube - this item trilayer consisting of two steel pipes, between which is laid a layer of insulation. stainless steel fragments are joined by welding

Fireproof insulating material has a different thickness - average from 2.5 cm to 10 cm. Manufacturers often use one of the best materials - dense basalt wool (200 kg / m³).

To assemble the chimney need to connect several pieces of different shapes, using a method of connecting a tip end and sockets. Simply put, one element is inserted into the other. From the outside space compounds reinforce patch clamps are tightly tightened after installation.

The advantages of a three-layer structure: protection fumes pipe, the minimum condensation, organization stable thrust capacity of the system mounting both the inner and the outer side houses

When installing a steel chimney inside the hole in the ceiling of the building and the roof is much smaller in diameter than that of brick or ceramic analogues.

mounting schemes sandwich chimney

Consider two installation scheme sandwich chimney: with internal, requiring the organization of holes in the roof and ceilings, and an external installation, which is made from the outside and is installed parallel to the wall of the house.

Each of the circuits has advantages: the internal equipment forms a minimal amount of condensate, the external device is easier to perform and is made with only one opening device

Internal mounting scheme is often used in the baths, since the steel pipe can simultaneously be heated and stones, and a water tank. If the room is not installed separately, as an annexe to the house - this is the most efficient and effective option. the internal weaknesses of the system - the need for tricks holes in the ceiling and the roof, as well as reducing storage space.

For mounting the external system is sufficient to make one hole in the wall and to ensure the vertical arrangement of pipes by means of brackets. Output tubing outwardly reduces the risk of poisoning the combustion waste. Minus - arrangement of additional protection from the external environment.

The procedure for installation work:

• adherence to the boiler (or other heat source) of the adapter;
• punching holes in the wall (average size - 40 cm x 40 cm) interior fireproof material;
• Installation in the wall passage unit with thermal insulation;
• assembling horizontal pipe section of the boiler (furnace) to a hole in the wall;
• arrangement of the support assembly from the outer side (platform in brackets);
• installing vertical pipe;
• fastening the top of the cone and the tip.

When the assembly should focus on the technical documentation prepared in the drafting process.

Tips of inner tube apparatus

When selecting the internal model should be aware of some technological nuances. For example, it is important in the transition area from the boiler to install the valve to be able to keep warm.

Crossings of overlapping roof and require the use of flame-retardant insulating materials such as mineral wool, and a protective device blocks that can be called "sandwich sandwiched"

Coupling of two adjacent elements on the transition portion is prohibited. Keep in mind the location of the attic rafters and beams: the farther they will be from the chimney, the better.

Useful videos on the topic

To understand how the installation takes place chimneys of various types offer useful and informative videos from Mastro-craftsmen.

Brick chimney with his own hands:

Steps for installing ceramic flue stamps TONA:

Tips for installation of the chimney sandwich:

Building a chimney for a gas boiler, furnace or fireplace - responsible occupation, which requires a special permit, and drafting skills. If you are not confident in their abilities, charge pipe installation specialists, who will perform the work with all the standards and requirements.