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With the arrival of frosts, it is possible to prolong the life of plants a little, covering them with old blankets or burlap on cold nights. But a lack of light and a drop in temperature inevitably lead to a halt in growth. Study weather reports and learn to predict the arrival of cold weather. The tips given in this article will help you keep your garden, garden and flower beds in the winter months.
Preparation of vegetables for colds
Leave the carrots, garlic, horseradish, leek, parsnip, radish and turnips on the beds before the cold. Harvest the harvest at the very beginning of winter. Stick high stakes in the places of the beds, so that they can be easily found under the snow, and cover with a thick layer of mulch. She will not let the earth thaw before time.
Remove the tomatoes, zucchini, peas and beans. If there are no traces of disease on the plants, they will go to fertilizers. Affected should be burned, or thrown into a separate heap.
Before the soil finally freezes, remove all weeds and debris from the site, then carry out prophylaxis against pest insects.
Carefully dig the soil for pests that can survive the winter in the earth. This will reduce the damage from insects with the arrival of heat. After you have processed the soil, add a layer of fertilizers, leaves, manure (if you have it) and lime (if necessary), and then mix thoroughly with the ground.
Another way is to sow cover crops, for example, winter rye, to improve the soil. If some areas are completely overgrown with weeds, cover them with a black film before the beginning of spring to kill the germinating seeds.
Preparation of herbs
Now it's your turn to prepare your herbs for the winter:
- Sage is a perennial plant in most regions and does not require special treatment before the onset of winter;
- rosemary is an evergreen perennial plant that must either be well concealed or transplanted into a room;
- thyme is very hardy - it enters into a dormant condition in the autumn, and then self-restored in the spring;
- parsley easily withstands a light frost, however, on cold nights it requires a full shelter (this biennial plant has a long rod root, so it is difficult to transplant).
The chopping onion should be noted separately. This perennial plant is incredibly tenacious. Dig out the area with the highest density of stems and transplant into the pot. Wait for the leaves to fall off, and then freeze for a few weeks. After that, put the pot of the house in a sunlit, but cool place. Water well, and then you can collect onion pens throughout the winter.
Before the frost completely stops the growth of sage, cut yourself a few beams for culinary purposes (for example, you can make a turkey with sage).
Preparation of berries
In the first half of the autumn, cut the summer raspberries, leaving the 6 strongest stems for every 30 cm of beds. Autumn raspberries cut completely, as soon as you collect all the berries. New shoots will spring in the spring.
Plant a blackberry in the autumn, and pour the stems on the ground. This will protect them from severe frosts.
Strawberries are covered with straw or hay.
Preparation of perennial plants and flowers
Well water your perennials and flowering shrubs during the fall. For this they will say thank you to you in the winter. Once the ground freezes, cut them, leaving the ends 7 cm high, and cover up with a thick layer of leaves or straw.
If you plan to make a new flower garden next spring, cover the desired area with mulch or film to prevent chaotic growth when the earth warms up.
Before heavy snowfall cover the pachisander with a layer of pine needles, about 5-10 cm thick.
Pots with chrysanthemums move to a secluded place when the plants bloom. Cover them for the winter with mulch from straw.
When the leaves of the dahlias, cannes and gladioli begin to turn black from the cold, carefully dig them out and dry it on the newspaper for a few days. Then put them among pieces of polystyrene, dry peat moss or chopped paper and store in a dark, moist place at a temperature of 5-10 degrees until the very spring.
Water roses all autumn, and stop fertilizing 6 weeks before the onset of frost. Remove all dead and sick flowers. With the first colds, cover the plants with compost or leaves in the area of the root neck.
In regions with a very cold climate, we recommend that low-rose roses be encased in a wire frame filled with leaves, compost or mulch of coniferous needles.
When the temperature drops below zero, gently press the stems of curling and tea roses, laying them flat on the ground, and cover with pine branches or mulch.
We cover the trees
To protect small trees and bushes from frosts, erect a cylindrical wire fence around them, filling it with straw or chopped leaves.
Regularly check your trees, cutting off the broken branches, making a smooth cut close to the trunk.
If you are planning to buy a live spruce for the New Year, make a hole for it before the ground gets cold. Keep the excavated soil in the garage or basement so that it does not freeze. On the pit, set the board so that it is easy to find it in the snow.
Release all the boxes that you keep on the street, and store them upside down so that they do not crack.
Hang the bucket on the hook in the shed and use it to store the irrigation accessories (hose nozzles, etc.).
In one of the warm days, throw the garden hose over the fence so that the water remains. Then fold it and take it away.
Mow the grass until it stops growing. If this is not done, the vegetation left under the snow can provoke the development of a brown patch in the spring.
Do not leave the fallen leaves on the site. Shovel them onto the tarpaulin and drag it into the compost pile. Before snowfalls cover it with a thick layer of straw or a film.
Empty the fuel tank of the lawnmower, or other electrical equipment.
Be sure to clean and clean all tools. Some gardeners wipe them with vegetable oil to protect them from rust.