Hosts - landing and care in a hot climate

There are very important points that southern gardeners must pay attention to - lovers of hosts. Planting and caring for it in the Kuban have certain features, because the sun, the heat is not always favorable for this plant. But the shady corners of the garden and we want to decorate. And the hosts are very decorative, they will improve any area, regardless of whether they bloom or not.

Contents:
  • Where to Grow
  • Phillostiosis
  • Botritis( gray mold or mold)
  • Photo hosts
  • Reviews and tips on which varieties of hosts will withstand the southern climate

Its main wealth is leaves. They can be with smooth or wavy edges, narrow or wide, with or without edging, light or dark, striped or speckled, high or low. A huge bush of plants of one variety or of several varieties will look beautiful.

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Where the host grows better

This plant is not for nothing called the "queen of the shadow."She loves shade, moisture, and cozy shady places for sure there is in any garden. But it is impermissible to abandon the cultivation of this magnificent, incredibly diverse in shape, color sheet beauty even in our sunny hot climate.

Many Kuban gardeners are doing great. No need to puzzle: what to plant in the shade! Of course, the hosts!

Having acquired at least one copy of this plant, you will love this goddess of shady places forever. Lush balls of dense bright leaves of different colors, shapes, placed together with other plants or separately, look great. Anyone, even the most abandoned shady corner of the garden will get the atmosphere of the tropics.

A gentle flowers, though for a short time, but will delight you with their delicate aroma. To make a lush bush feel great in the Kuban, you need to know some secrets.

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Host, when and where to plant

First of all, you need to determine the time and place for this eastern beauty.

Dry, hot air of the Krasnodar Territory is a real test for a plant brought to us from East Asia. And the sun's rays are a serious enemy for its lush foliage.

When is it best to plant a host when to transplant? The plant is not fastidious, but we need our saplings to take root, develop well, don’t they?

If you plan to plant a host in the fall, you should know that the seedlings after planting should have time to settle down, get stronger before the onset of frost. If they are planted in late autumn, then they may not survive until spring - they will freeze because of the lack of natural shelter - snow. Although some impatient gardeners take the risk of planting a newbie late in the fall - there’s hopefully whether they’ll get lucky or not.

Therefore, the best time to plant a new pet in the open ground in the Kuban is spring, when frost is already past. Most likely, this is the month of April or the beginning of May.

It is not recommended by experts, experienced growers to plant it in summer( in the south) - heat, dry air even in the shade can interfere with rooting, plant development. It will not soon get a magnificent, elegant look. But if, nevertheless, such a need arose, then one of the conditions is to plant it with a large clod of earth so that the root system is not exposed or damaged.

When choosing a place, it is necessary to take into account that not all varieties prefer shaded cool places. The lighter colored leaves, the more sun requires bush.

The main rules of landing, the choice of place are as follows:

  • Plants with a dark green, bluish foliage coloring , such as blue varieties, should be planted only in the shade.
  • Light varieties can be planted in partial shade, where the sun is up to 11 or after 16 hours.
  • Allowed to be placed in sunny places with a lacy shade from trees or shrubs in the midday time.
  • Khost is not very demanding on the soil, but if you want your pet to thank you with beautiful, lush foliage, you should prepare a place according to its needs. The soil should be fertile, light, moist. That, unfortunately, is not everywhere found in the Krasnodar Territory - here most often it is heavy black soil. Moisture - the best friend of these plants.
  • Soil acidity is not important, both acidic and alkaline soil is suitable for the root system of this plant. Only one thing must be taken into account: the eastern Madame does not tolerate sandy and heavy clay soils.
  • When choosing a sapling, pay attention to its roots. They should be at least 10 cm long( optimally 10-15 cm), juicy, elastic( alive).The more buds in a seedling, the better. But 2-3 is good too!
  • Before planting, study the characteristics of the selected variety, especially consider its size in adulthood, because its bushes are gigantic in size.

So, we land or transfer to the host!

The landing time is better to choose the evening, after 18 hours, when the sun is not so hot, and the air temperature is slightly reduced. So young seedlings will be easier to transfer stress.

  1. We dig deep enough( about 25-35 cm), a wide hole. The width of the landing pit is important because the roots grow horizontally under the ground, close to the surface. If we plant several specimens, then we place the pits according to the pattern of 30 × 30 cm or 50 × 50 cm( the distance depends on the varietal characteristics of the size of the adult plant).
  2. Add compost or rotted manure to the bottom of the landing pit, thereby improving the nutritional value of the soil. It will be good if there is a peat - add it for breathability, the luxuriance of the pre-root cushion. If the soil is acidic, add a couple of tablespoons of ash so that the bush does not waste strength on all sorts of nonsense.
  3. A little trick for a hot Kuban: add to the soil mixtures a hydrogel for plants( moisture storage) that absorbs water and nutrients, and then becomes their source for plants, thereby preventing the roots from drying out, which can damage the perfect host in our hot climate. In the presence of a hydrogel, the reserve “reservoirs” formed by it will contain moisture, even if the earth is dry. The root system of the bush "deflate" of them as much fluid as he needs. Believe my experience, this is a real find for gardeners of Kuban! It is necessary to add the gel already swollen, saturated with water.
  4. Fill 2/3 of the planting pit with the prepared soil mixture, thoroughly pour it with water.
  5. At the bottom of the pit we form a hillock of soil, lower the seedling, straightening all the roots down the hillock. We fall asleep with the earth, pressing down with our hands. Shed water again.
  6. Important: all kidneys must be above ground level.
  7. It is desirable to mulch the soil around to preserve moisture, to protect from the formation of a crust - this often occurs during heat. For mulch, you can use peat - scatter it under a plant about 2 cm thick. Mulch will replace loosening, which can damage the roots due to their close proximity to the ground. It is not necessary to use wood bark for mulch, as it can become a causative agent of diseases, especially when it is wet after rain.

Everything! Your plant is ready to please you with its beauty, if, of course, you follow certain rules.

The main thing is regular watering, which should be done after sunset, but not too late - the leaves should have time to dry before night.

Shrub will thank you for its beauty, pomp, if you sometimes indulge him with an evening shower.

But remember: blue varieties cannot be watered from above, since the leaves of varieties of this type are covered with a thin layer of wax, which is washed off with such irrigation. Firstly, the leaves remain unprotected from external influences, and, secondly, they lose their decorative effect, since it is the wax that gives the leaves blue.

Feeding up hosts, preferably several times per season:

  • in spring, after the appearance of the first leaf buds,
  • during flowering,
  • after, as the plant fades.

Interchange organic fertilizer and mineral.

In the spring, you can add compost “drink” or another name - compost “tea” - a real energy drink for all plants, including fruit species. This is the secret of many gardeners.

It is easy to prepare: put fully “ripened”( this is important!) Compost into a gauze bag( about 3-5 glasses), tie it up. Dip the compost bag into a bucket filled with water. Insist "tea" for about 3-4 days, stirring occasionally. When the solution in color will remind you strongly brewed tea, you can use it to feed plants without diluting, concentrated.

But if the resulting compost "tea" has an unpleasant putrid odor, then it cannot be used.

During flowering, any fertilizer containing potassium, nitrogen, phosphorus will do. And after the host blooms or in the fall, you can put ready dry compost or humus under the bushes.

The lush look of the beauties of the garden also implies the timely removal of yellowed old leaves, peduncles, weeding, and the replenishment of mulch if necessary.

These are frost-resistant plants, but with very strong frosts, the absence of snow, rare collectible varieties can be covered with spruce or white covering material of good density with two layers.

They do not like being disturbed, they can grow in one place for a long time. They can not replant twenty years.

If the sockets have grown heavily, having conquered the allocated space too tightly, then the division of the bushes is still recommended to be carried out 1 time in 5-6 years.

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Reproduction hosts

By the way, reproduction by division is the most reliable way to get beauty for your garden. The best time for this procedure in Kuban is spring. Shrubs are divided simply - no special effort is necessary. Sometimes a coarse division with a garden spade is required. But it is necessary to dry the cuts, powder it with ashes.

Again advice: rare collection varieties should be divided carefully, without aggressive intervention, since they are more capricious. Divided bushes are planted in the same way as described above.

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Garden Hosts - Landscape Tricks

The use of the host by landscape designers is very diverse. These magnificent plants are very beautiful throughout the growing season from spring to autumn. They can be planted in flower beds, where they decorate other types of plants that have lost their attractive appearance, also in separate groups, for example, in the middle of a lawn or at the fence.

The curb of the host looks great, giving a finished look to flower arrangements. What to say about artificial or natural ponds! Elegant leaves of the same or different shades along the coast will complete the landscape. After all, these “pillows” in the wild often grow along water bodies, on the mountain slopes, forest edges.

They look very beautiful with stones laid out between them.

Variety Wide Brim

Plant a flowerbed consisting of different varieties in a shaded corner of your garden, put small lanterns with solar panels between them, bring a bench - this is a place for you to relieve fatigue in the evenings, personal reflections, family conversations.

The hosts are well combined with ferns, geyher, mellunits, brunners. Favorite gardeners will look just as wonderful as framing coniferous compositions.
Properly chosen place can change the whole look of the garden.

It often happens that if there is a lot of shade, then the flowerbed looks somehow gloomy. You can put there hosts with leaves that have a bright, bright edging, for example, a variety of white-haired Marginata - a dark place will immediately come to life.

Albomarginata Grade( Albarginata)

There are still some landscape tricks when planning a flower bed with a host.

Plant spring bulbous plants between them - crocuses, muscari, Pushkinia, hionodoksy, sprouts, etc. This may be a flowerbed with daffodils, that is, with flowers that do not require annual digging. In the spring you will have a blooming flower bed of primroses, because the host has not woken up after winter. But in the summer, a lush, powerful bush will close the empty places, where not long ago the first spring flowers delighted the eye.

Variety Paradise Island( Paradise Island)

In general, you can think of a lot of songs, all, of course, not to list. But one of the main rules is the observance of contrast, then it will definitely be beautiful!

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Diseases of the hosts and their treatment

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Root neck rot

One of the most famous, dangerous diseases of the hosts. Symptoms: a diseased shrub stops growing, leaves become colorless, die off.

Treatment: if you notice these signs, it is urgent to dig up the diseased plant, cut out the damaged tissue with a sharp knife, spray all sections with any fungicide. Be sure to transplant the plant to another place, but on the same land you need to replace.

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Hosta Virus X( HVX)

Virus Disease

They are ill only with hosts. Blue varieties are most susceptible to this disease, for example, Siebold's host. Be careful when dividing the bush, as well as cutting the leaves, inflorescences with non-disinfected garden tools. The virus penetrates the plant through the juice in sections.

Symptoms: the leaves are covered with bright, dotted, yellow spots, rounded spots. Often, such spotting is not paid attention, as it is very similar to the natural color of the plant.

Treatment or prevention: the first thing to remember is to always disinfect the instrument after each division or trim operation. The biggest problem is that the virus may not immediately manifest itself, but already be a source of infection for its neighbors.

Viral diseases are not treated. Therefore, if you see signs of a viral disease - immediately, even ruthlessly destroy it completely - dig it up, burn it. It is better to remove one than to lose the entire collection.

But the good news is that the virus can only survive in living tissues. Dead, rotten parts of the virus do not contain. Even if pieces of roots remain in the soil, they are not dangerous. It will take two weeks and you can safely plant new plants on this place.

After the removal of the infected specimen, it is necessary to disinfect the instruments with formalin.

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Secondary infection of anthracnose

This is an infectious disease. It first appeared far from Russia, but we have recently settled. During the hot rainy summer in the Kuban due to high temperature, high humidity there is a greater likelihood of this infection. The cause of this disease can also be phosphorus-potassium starvation, so do not forget about feeding.

Symptoms: reddish spots on the leaves. Sometimes, at first, the spots have a light color with a red border, and then change color completely - they become red-brown.

Treatment: to combat the disease, you need to apply a fungicide, for example, Fitosporin, Abiga-Peak, Acrobat MC, and if there are serious lesions, you will need Fundazol, Ridomil Gold MC, Scor or similar. But, unfortunately, the spots will not disappear, will remain until the end of the season.

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Rust

This disease is more common in yellow-bordered varieties, as well as the host from the Sieboldiana family. Arises due to the wrong choice of place, irresponsible care, too long dry period.

Symptoms: dehydrated leaves, sluggish, sometimes completely dried.

Treatment: in order to reanimate plants, it needs to be transplanted into a shady place, not to be lazy to water it abundantly.

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Phylosticosis

A fungal disease that affects weak or frost-affected leaves.

Symptoms: large yellowish-brown spots appear on the leaves, gradually growing together. It happens that flower stalks suffer. Later, the spots are covered with a grayish bloom from the spore of the fungus, then the spots crack and finally fall out.

Treatment: to begin, remove, burn the leaves affected by the fungus, reduce the watering of the plant. Spray the shrub with antifungal agents, for example, Strobi fungicide solution( 4 g / bucket of water), Vectra( 3 ml / bucket of water), Abiga-Peak( 50 g / bucket of water).Repeat treatment after 10-12 days. If the flowers are damaged, they should be sprayed with a 1% solution of sulfur or copper sulfate.

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Botritis( gray mold or mold)

Signs: a lesion starts from the leaves, their tips seem to rot, and then the rot hits the entire leaf completely. If you do nothing, your beauty will be a rotten pile in a short time. Therefore, treatment is recommended to start at an early stage.

Control measures: at the initial stage of the disease it is necessary to spray the foliage Bordeaux fluid, drugs Abig-Peak, Oksihom, Hom, Kuproskat, Topaz, Champion. If the bush is already strongly affected by mold, then, unfortunately, the treatment is already useless, it should be dug out completely, burn it.

In fact, the cultivation of beautiful beauties in the Krasnodar Territory has no special intricacies. Diseases are almost not affected. More often, the hosts lose their decorative appearance not from diseases and pests, but from the hot sun or little snow. In the south, this should be monitored more closely, choosing the right place for your pet, carefully caring for it.

Well, we reviewed all the rules, tricks, features of growing hosts. Planting and care are not difficult, are available even for novice gardeners. If you are filled with sympathy for a great host, then settle it at home. This charming, mysterious Asian will transform your site beyond recognition. Abandoned shady place will be the most comfortable corner.

Written by Anna Pasechnik

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Grade Uiii( Wheee)
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Testimonials and tips on which varieties of hosts can withstand the southern climate of

It’s scary to recommend hosts for a very strong south. Penumbra in this case, it seems to me, will be the most important condition. Another good thing would be a ponimal nearby. The H. plantaginea variety and its forms immediately come to mind. Plantain is not so great, rather ML, but there is, for example Sombrero( XL), Old Faithful( L).A hundred years ago, I read that the Atlantis thrives variety grows well in the south. But here, too, a scattered shadow is a prerequisite for maintaining spectacular coloring. Daybreak, Piedmond Gold, Krossa Regal, Alex Summers look very impressive - not the most huge, but always noticeable in the garden. Abba Dabba Do, Atlantis, Seducer - one of those who better show their color in a warm climate. Blue Angel for design is excellent. I have Spartacus in the sun until two o'clock. Looks great. From pets.
Not all of my hosts got shady places, and, nevertheless, nothing happened to them in the past two hot summers. I will try to assume that in a warm climate they will not bend and such varieties as Gentle Giant will show themselves in all their glory.
Grade Gentle Giant( photo Irene_U)
Irene_U
http: //www.gardengallereya.ru/forum/ 3-149-1
There is one point to consider! In hot climates, the wax on the varieties with blue leaves will melt and they will very quickly turn green.
Gruper
https: //forum.tvoysad.ru/ viewtopic.php? F = 122 & t = 9672 & start = 105
As a cover for the hosts from the sun, I would plant dahlias or lilies: I still need to dig them out regularly. And if it will be seen that the hosts rushed in breadth, it will be possible to transfer the background plants relatively painlessly a little further.
alex100
http: //www.websad.ru/ archdis.php? Code = 458200 & subrub =% CF% E0% F0% F2% ED% E5% F0% FB% 20% E8% 20% F3% E4% E0% F7% ED% FB% E5% 20% F1% EE% F7% E5% F2% E0% ED% E8% FF
In my opinion, the phlox hosts look better, and you can plant large-flowered daffodils between them - they will decorate a flower garden in spring and disappear in summerunder the leaves of the host.
Primula
http: //www.websad.ru/ archdis.php? Code = 458200 & subrub =% CF% E0% F0% F2% ED% E5% F0% FB% 20% E8% 20% F3% E4% E0% F7% ED% FB% E5% 20% F1% EE% F7% E5% F2% E0% ED% E8% FF
Older apple trees on the site - a great shading option! They give a wonderful lace shade for the host! !!
In the shade under an apple tree( Photo by Oksana Gorodishenina)
Oksana Gorodishenina
https: //vk.com/ topic-65768452_32339748

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