Starters for fluorescent lamps

Starter - This is a small discharge lamp with a smoldering charge. The flask, usually made of glass, is filled with neon or a mixture of helium with hydrogen (inert gas). All this is closed by a metal or plastic case. There may be a viewing window.

The product has 2 electrodes, while distinguishing between:

1. Asymmetric design. One electrode is stationary, the composition is limited to one material. The second can move, made of two metals.
2. Symmetrical design. Both electrodes are bimetallic. This type is now the most common, as it has several advantages compared to the previous version.

The product is complemented by a capacitor, which smoothes the moment of closing and opening of contacts. Another function is to extinguish the electric arc between the contacts of the device during opening, which eliminates the possibility of welding electrodes, extending the life of the starter.

There are 3 stages of work:

1. LDS electrical circuit designed so that when you turn on all the voltage came to the starter. The product electrodes are open, a smoldering charge is formed in the device. A small current passes through the circuit, which heats the electrodes, causing them to bend. Short circuit occurs.
2. Throttle (also an integral part) current begins to flow, causing the cathodes of the starter to heat up. In the closed state, the electrodes of the starter cool and open. A choke with high inductance generates a pulse that ignites the gas of the lighting part.
3. Voltage is setequal to the operating parameters of the lamp (usually two times lower than the nominal incoming). The starter is connected to the LDS in parallel, so that the same current passes through it. And it is no longer enough to create a smoldering charge, so the electrodes are open.

If the gas did not work the first time, the process repeats. According to the standards, the lighting should turn on no later than 10 seconds after the current is supplied.

Possible malfunctions

The fluorescent tube does not light.What could be:

1. The incoming voltage from the network is less than 200 volts. Under these conditions, the starter may not work.
2. Insufficient smoldering charge. Over time, this figure decreases. There comes a time when the electrodes will never close again, replacement is required.
3. The heating time of the LDS cathodes is not enough. It requires replacement with a product with a long contact closure period.

Lighting device blinks:

1. Reduced smoldering charge triggers the starter during lamp operation. Accordingly, the gas pipe goes out, then ignites again. An urgent replacement is required.
2. Glow at the ends of the lampAt the same time, all of it does not light up. It is necessary to remove the starter, if the glow disappeared, the starter must be changed.

Scope and selection criteria

Starters for fluorescent lamps are used to ignite fluorescent lighting devices of any configuration, provided that an electromagnetic inductor is used in the circuit.

Used in networks with an operating frequency of 50 to 60 Hertz with the ability to work at 220 Volts, and less (usually 127 Volts is supplied by connecting two luminous tubes in series).

The starting device is not scarce in the market, so you can easily find it both in the city markets and in stores selling household appliances.

What to look for when buying:

1. Manufacturer. The manufacturer with the Philips brand is in greatest demand. You can also use Osram from Russia. Often there is ASD. Products from China with similar names are much cheaper, but the reliability of the device is doubtful.
2. Rated voltage. If a two-lamp connection system is used, then the starter should be rated for 127 Volts. If single-tube - 220. This fact is necessarily highlighted in the labeling.
3. Lamp power. Starters vary in power. Therefore, when choosing, you need to pay attention to this fact.
4. Fireproof housing. During the operation of the product, conditions arise for ignition (electric arc, overheating). The lamp housing is usually plastic, flammable. Therefore, for its safety, it is better to exclude the possibility of a spark on the starter.

Characteristics and marking

It is necessary to highlight several basic characteristics of the device:

1. Life time. Philips, for example, claims that its devices can withstand 6 thousand inclusions. Not far from him and Osram. But this is subject to the normal parameters of the voltage in the network and many other factors.
2. Normal temperature. GOST provides the necessary temperature range from +5 to 55. If you need to use the lamp in other conditions, then you will need to search for a special starter (there are such, but more expensive).
3. Cathode heating time. In other words, the duration of the period when the electrodes are closed. The variation in this characteristic among manufacturers is large, so you need to pay attention to the recommendations of the manufacturer of the lighting part of the device.
4. Type of capacitor in starter. Our manufacturer uses a foil product, which is a relic, but cheaper. The starter can work without a capacitor (or with a failed one), however, the service life of the device will decrease.
5. Rated voltage. By connecting a starter at 127 Volts to 220 Volts, you can ruin the entire system in one go.

Domestic marking is slightly different from the western one, but you can combine them into a single whole.

Our GOST:

1. With big - starter.
2. The numbers in front of it determine the power of the lamp (60, 90, 120).
3. Digits lastDo not talk about stress (127 and 220).

Western marking:

1. Lamps from 4 to 80 W with a voltage of 220 volts - S10, FS-U, ST111.
2. Voltage 127 and power up to 22 watts - S2, FS-2, ST151.

Product Prices

The cost of the starter depends on the quality of the electrodes and the brand.

An example from Belgorod:

1. Philips S10 costs 18 rubles, but with the same characteristics, but Chinese TDM - 4 rubles. At the same time, the seller does not hide that the electrodes of the cheap option are aluminum and does not give a guarantee for the device.
2. Starter TDM S2 aluminum - 3.90, and the copper contact - 5.5 rubles. At the same time, Philips will cost 27 rubles.

From these examples it is clear that the price difference between a good and incomprehensible starter is noticeable, but the service life is also different.

Daylight lamp connection

Connecting such a device is simple and the electrical circuit also does not require special knowledge.

There are two connection methods - single-tube and double-lamp:

1. Single lamp circuit. The lamp and the inductor are connected in series to the power source, and the starter is mounted parallel to the lamp. A capacitor may be present at the input terminals of the luminous tube to improve current performance.
2. Double lamp option. Two lamps and a choke are connected in series to the power supply system, and a starter is attached to each lamp in parallel. Wherein. the sum of the starter power must match the power of the inductor.

To connect the starter, you need the device directly, as well as the de-energized phase. For added safety, dielectric gloves or pliers with good insulation can be used.

The starter is inserted into the groove intended for it, and rotates clockwise until it stops. Thus, the terminals are fixed on the conductive plates. This is subject to the factory lamp.

If you want to make it more reliable and stronger, you will need soldering iron with solder.

LDS connection without starter:

LDS connection with starter:

Performance check and options without using a starter

A failed starter cannot be distinguished by external signs (unless mechanical damage is present).

Therefore, in the case of an unlit lamp, you need to:

1. Replace tube obviously working.
2. Replace starter obviously working.
3. Check marking on the compliance of the parameters.

The most common and safest way is to use an electronic choke. On its body there is a detailed connection diagram, so there will be no difficulties.

But with the necessary knowledge, the starter can be replaced with:

1. Rectifier based on standard diode assembly KTs405A with additional resistance for safe replacement of LDS;
2. Capacitor Set which double the current, supplying the fluorescent tube with a constant voltage, but the polarity must be changed regularly for normal lamp operation;

A few tips:

1. Do not chase cheapness, avaricious pays not even twice, but three times. Get products from trusted manufacturers.
2. Watch the starter markings carefully., especially important power, rated voltage.
3. The starter can be replaced and with the lamp running, it’s not dangerous.
4. Buy multiple products at onceThe starter is not a very reliable device.