Irons, like household appliances, have been around for a long time. They were bulky, heavy and uncomfortable to use. The advantage of these devices was their "indestructibility" due to the simplicity of the design. They fell into disrepair only when the hot coal burned through their metal bottom.
Nowadays, iron is a high-tech device consisting of several nodes that have fine-tuning and work coordination.
When all this is broken, the device jams and eventually fails. This happens due to various reasons. Improper operation, falls of the appliance, use of chlorinated water for a steam generator and much more As a result, such a necessary device turns into a useless piece of plastic and metal.
What to do if your favorite device has stopped heating up? The main thing is not to panic, but to try to return the iron to its working capacity. Often the cause of the malfunction is negligible and easily remedied.
Below, the article will describe the troubleshooting of an electric iron and how to fix it and repair it with your own hands.
Of the tools, you only need a Phillips screwdriver, a multimeter or an ohmmeter and small pliers called “ducklings”.
Although this iron does not have a steam generator, but its electrical circuit and design is practically no different from the first. Therefore, the method of diagnosis and repair of the electrical part is identical.
In photo 2, a device that does not heat up when it is connected to the network and the wheel of the thermostat is turned.
The mains voltage is present, visually the cord and plug have no visible damage.
Judging by the tag (Figure 3), the power of the device is 1000 watts. This is not a big indicator, since there are instances of power up to 2500 watts. The more watts an iron consumes, the faster it heats up, but a greater current flows through its circuits and contacts. Therefore, such devices are more often subject to the conditions under which they fail.
As with many irons, you should start by removing the back cover of the case (Figure 4). It rests on one screw, located exactly in the middle of the cover.
Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew this screw.
After the screw is unscrewed, the cover can be freely removed and you can see the incoming electrical circuits of the iron.
For ease of installation, there is a terminal block inside (Figure 6), to which the incoming cable comes. On the other side of the terminal block, the wires go deeper into the device.
With a high power of the iron in this place, wire burn-out or melting of the terminal block body can occur. The fact is that this method of clamping with screws is not entirely reliable, since over time the connection heats up and the screw loosens.
At the same time, the connection heats up even more and as a result, the wire burns out. And this place is often a weak link in the electrical circuit of the device.
But in the photo everything looks great. No hints of heating, much less a wire break. Most likely, this is due to the low power of the heater.
This means that the cause of the breakdown lies further, and to get there, it is necessary to remove the upper part of the iron body (Figure 7). This part is held on by four screws, two in the back, and two in the front.
But in order to make disassembly convenient in the future, it is necessary to remove the cord clip, which is held on two screws.
Using the same Phillips screwdriver, unscrew one screw and loosen the other.
When the cord is released, pull it out and unscrew the screws of the case.
Now go to the front. Both screws in this place are under the water container. This is a regular spray gun for irrigation of clothes before ironing.
To remove it, press the latch button (Figure 9), and take out the sprayer itself. Next, we get a container for water.
Two screws are hidden under it, fastening the case with the sole of the iron. We unscrew one, and then the second screw.
After these manipulations, the top cover is easily removable.
There is only a sole with a protective casing and electrical circuits.
Photo 15 shows that the indicator lamp is moving away from the terminal block.
It should signal the operation of the iron when the mains voltage is applied directly to the heater.
In the center there is a thermostat engine (Figure 16) with an oblique guide cut. This slice is necessary to align the regulator wheel on the top cover with the temperature sensor slider.
We take out the neon lamp from the seat (Figure 17) and unscrew the three screws securing the protective cover of the sole (Figure 18).
Next, you must disconnect the wires going under the casing, otherwise they will interfere. The wires, both incoming and outgoing, are colored accordingly, so there is no need to mark them before disconnecting.
But before that, we check if the problem is in the cord. To do this, we connect the terminals of the device capable of checking the circuit with the blue and brown wires (Figure 19). These colors correspond to a phase, and to zero of a network of 220 Century. We twist the thermostat engine first to one side and then to the other side.
The device does not show anything, which means that the break is further under the protective cover.
In turn, unscrew all the wire clips.
After removing the wires from the clamps, carefully remove the protective cover.
We put it aside and again take the chain pointer. We connect its ends with the terminals of the heater or heater. The device shows that the heater is intact, and this is good news, since it is pressed into the sole of the iron.
Only the temperature controller remains.
To one of its conclusions comes a brown wire that goes directly from the network. Having connected the device with this terminal of the temperature sensor (Figure 23), as well as with the white wire that goes to its second contact, we rotate the controller again.
Nothing happens, which means that the thermostat is faulty.
What can be done then? The simplest thing is to replace the regulator. But finding the same will most likely be problematic, let alone a worker.
Some short-circuit the temperature sensor with a piece of wire, removing it in this way from the circuit.
But this is not an option, because at best, when overheated, the iron can burn a delicate fabric. And at worst, the whole apartment or house, if it is accidentally left on the network. Therefore, a direct connection is not an option.
What then can be done? Just adjust the bimetal plate of the thermostat. If you look closely, you will notice that the contacts of the thermal relay are open in any position of the regulator knob.
But if you press your finger on the bimetal plate, the contacts will close at some point. So you need to bend the plate a little and everything should work.
Take the ducks and grab the bimetal plate with them, slightly rotate it counterclockwise (Figure 24 and 25).
This should be done as accurately as possible and in the middle position of the thermostat engine. At some point, a click will sound, and the contacts will close.
You do not need to bend further. This will be quite enough, otherwise, if you bend the plate very much, the relay will not work at the right time.
We take measurements after refinement (Figure 26). It is seen that the contact part of the temperature sensor closes.
Now we put the wires into the opening of the casing and stretch them with our fingers on the other side.
Fasten the protective cover with screws.
Next, connect the wires on the terminal according to the color, carefully tightening the screws.
We put the indicator lamp in the intended place.
We also carefully lay out the wires. We put on the upper part of the body and tighten the screws of its fastening.
It is very important that when connecting the body to the sole (Figure 31), the axis of the regulator wheel precisely fits into the cut on the thermal relay engine.
To check whether these two parts are connected correctly, you need to turn the regulator wheel in different directions. If it is fixed in two directions, then everything is connected correctly and assembly can continue.
We fix the case with screws and put the container with a spray.
We pull the cord, and having laid it, we fix the corresponding clip.
We put on the back cover and tighten the last screw.
We turn on the iron and turn the wheel.
Photo 35 shows that the iron turned on and heats up.
At some point, he disconnected himself, gaining the desired temperature.
We turn the wheel to the maximum, and he turned on again. We can assume that the regulator is working correctly and will not fail at the right time. This repair can be considered complete.
It should be remembered that all work must be done with the device disconnected from the network.
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