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The simplest device for direct switching on of light in a room is a one-button switch. Its installation will not be difficult for a technically savvy person if you follow the recommendations below.

Connection scheme for one-button switch

To designate the planned channels for wiring, you need to know the principle of installing a switch. The scheme of its connection is not particularly difficult.The first and foremost rule: a single-key switch must interrupt the phase wire (usually brown or white).

This is done for safety reasons, so as not to be electrocuted again.

1. "Phase" is derived from the electrical box from the access cable and is fed to the installation site of the switch.
2. Simultaneously, the "zero" from the wiring is pulled directly to the location of the fixture (this is always a blue wire).
3. From the planned socket for the one-key switch, the phase conductor is taken to the same point of suspension of the chandelier or other lighting device.

   The zero and ground wires are laid directly to the luminaire, and the phase conductor must pass through the switch

4. After the switch, the phase wire can again be brought into the box and from there it leads to the lamp together with the rest, but there is no need for this, it is easier to immediately extend the line to the lighting device.

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Normally, the grounding is not used for ceiling lighting, but the earth wire is indicated on the diagram. The fact is that according to the rules of electrical safety this type of wiring is needed for wet rooms, and apartments are not such. However, the three-core cable with grounding wire will not be superfluous for the installation of dry room lighting.

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Having studied the scheme of installation, we draw the lines of cable laying in the most convenient way and start preparing for work.

Step-by-step instruction for connecting a single-key switch

Consider first the case with cables hidden in the wall without grounding.It is necessary to remember the main safety rule when installing any type of wiring - all work is done with the voltage off.That is, when starting to act, turn off the automatic device in the shield to save your own life and health.

Necessary tools and materials

It is clear that first of all you need to stock up the cable. Its required length can be determined by measuring with a roulette the drawn lines of electrical wiring. For lighting use wire with a cross-section, mm2. In addition to the cable must be prepared:

• switch;
• lamp;
• insulating tape;
• A standard glass (podrozetnik) for a wall-mounted appliance.

From the tools you will need the following:

• a perforator with a channel blade;
• screwdriver flat and cross;
• test-tester;
• pliers with insulated handles for safety;
• knife;
• crown on concrete with a diameter from a glass (cm);
• spatula and putty.

Preparatory work

Suppose the electrical wires for lighting the room are not summed up. First you need to decide where they can be taken. It is enough to find an electric box at the top of the ceiling in which the cabling of the apartment is hidden. Usually it is closed with a round plastic cover, the latter can easily be removed if you use a screwdriver.

If the house is old enough, the junction box is likely to be twisted from aluminum wires, wrapped in black cloth tape

Next, you need to determine the position of the future switch and find the center of the ceiling of the room. At the last indicated point, the lamp will be placed. In general, if there are no cables in the ceiling, they need to be brought. To do this, it is necessary to find in the electrical box the wires coming from the flap in the entrance.

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To find a power line with a phase coming from the general network of the house, you need to take the help of a partner. The latter must go into the entrance and turn off each of the machines that feed the apartment. At this time, the second person sampler determines whether the electric current in the network has disappeared. When the tip of the screwdriver tester touches a bare wire with brown insulation, the indicator light must disappear. Usually from the entrance there is a thick cable, from it and we need to start checking.

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The location of the switch is selected based on the convenience of pressing its key. That is, it is enough to choose a small height from 1 to, m from the floor and retreat from the door jamb some small distance (from 1 to 40 cm). The middle of the room can be determined using a tape measure, measuring the length and width of the room and dividing them in half. When these places are defined, you need to draw an imaginary cable line on the wall and ceiling with a pencil.

Sequence of cables and devices connection

A puncher will make a channel for the cable if the wiring is hidden. If an external network is planned, this power tool will not be needed, but plastic cable channels will be needed.

1. We begin to drill the channels with the perforator for the cables, orienting along the drawn lines. To do this, we put a special blade into the puncher and turn on the chiselling mode. Carefully pass all necessary length. The depth of the channel should be such that the cable is then completely drowned, and still there are 2 - 3 mm left for the putty (channel sealing).
   

   With the help of a blade inserted into the puncher, straight grooves (stems) are made in the wall strictly along the planned lines of cable installation

2. We lay the cables according to the scheme. Two wires lead to the switch from the box. One of the veins - phase, brown or white - will go to the switch, the second one is not needed. Another similar cable leads from the box to the lamp, here we use only "zero". Finally, we remove another cable with phase conductor from the chandelier. He must come to the switch.

   In the made shtroby stacked cable and fastened at several points with plastic clips

3. We make a recess for the switch with the help of the crown on the concrete. Here, the perforator must be switched to the simultaneous drilling and chiselling mode.

   The required seat is drilled using a crown of the corresponding diameter

4. We fill the channels with putty using a spatula. This process is not difficult in itself. It can be produced even without any experience of finishing works. The main thing - accuracy. Simultaneously insert the glass and also grease the place of its attachment with putty. The protruding piece of cable should be pushed into a special hole on the glass.

   All the channels made in the wall, including the place for the installation of the podrozetnik, are covered with putty, and the cable inserted under the switch is output through a jar

5. We open the packaging of the new switch. Initially, we press the key with a slotted screwdriver and delete it. Remove the cladding panel of the switch.

   After removing the cladding panel, access to the switch mechanism

6. We blank the ends of the wires in the socket of the juniper. The one-key switch has two inputs. In them we insert the stripped segments of the phase lines.

   When connecting the switch, the order of the wires does not matter

7. We mount the switch itself. Tightening the bolts on the wires, insert the device into the beaker, deepening the flush with the wall, and screwdriver twist the side screws. When tightening the latter, the antennae are pulled out, which fix the switch in the glass.

   The mechanism of the switch is fixed to the sub-socket using two bolts along the edges of the metal slide

8. We collect the switch: fix the facing panel and insert the fingers into place with the fingers. The process is over.

   On the installed mechanism, the cladding panel is put on, and then the switch key

There are also types of switches that do not have bolts on the contacts. In this case, the bare ends of the wires can simply be inserted into the corresponding inputs, and the wires themselves are fixed by an automatic clamp. If you need to remove the ends back, you need to stick the tip of the slotted screwdriver into the special groove and press the mechanism.

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If the cable is not fixed during the laying of the cable in the channel, it is necessary to purchase special dowels. They look like this: one end of the ring for the cable, the other - a common rod. Next, you need to drill several holes along the channel with the puncher and insert the dowels, fixing the cable with them.

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To fix the cable in the rod, you can use dowels with a special clip

With open wiring, everything is much easier. The puncher is not needed. It is enough to lay the cable on the outside of the wall and attach it with any improvised elements, for example, the same dowels. But usually in this case, use decorative boxes for electrical wiring. The latter is simply glued to the wall on a double tape or fixed to self-tapping screws, and in them, after opening the lid, lay the wires. The rest of the process is the same as described above.

Video: connection of a one-button switch with indication

How to connect the switch from the socket

In this case, you can save on electrical wires. The connection is made in the usual order according to the script already described. However, the wires are not powered in an electrical box, but in an outlet.

1. The latter must first be disassembled. Namely, having unscrewed the central bolt, remove the plastic front part, loosen the screws with which the socket is fixed in the glass, and pull out the base.
2. Next, connect the phase wire to the corresponding input of the socket. You will receive a parallel connection.

   If the phase is not taken from the junction box, but from the outlet, you can save on cabling

3. The second end of the phase wire must be connected to the corresponding input of the switch. From the second contact of this device, a wire will go out to power the luminaire. In this case, zero from the illuminating device can also be brought to the outlet or directly to the box.

Video: connection of the switch from the socket

How to connect three sockets and one switch from the box

Let's consider one more case. Suppose we need to supply three electrical sockets and one switch from the electrical distribution box. Then it's best to do so.

1. Out of the box, one cable with three conductors of cross-section, mm, is output.Such a size for apartment sockets is normalized in the PUE (Rules of the Device of Electrical Installations).

   It is better to make a layout to the outlets with a special cable in non-flammable insulation, for example VVGnG 3x,

2. Then the wire is fed to the first socket for the socket and it is installed. The process is similar to connecting a switch.
3. The cable extends further to the next glass. The socket is re-installed. Finally, the process is repeated a third time. And, if the wiring is hidden, then the perforator first make channels and sockets. Each time, a phase and zero wires are inserted into the socket into the corresponding pins, and then the same cable is connected in parallel to the same points, and it goes on.

   Each vein needs to be driven from one glass to another, connecting all the sockets in series

4. At the final stage, the switch is connected to one of the outlets - where it is more convenient. It should be remembered that for lighting use wire cross-section, mm. And earthing is optional.

The cable for lighting is sometimes taken out of the box. Then we get two separate lines - one for sockets, the second for lighting. The switch is connected according to the original scheme described at the very beginning of the article.

Connection of a one-key switch to two light bulbs

It is also possible to configure a one-button switch with two lamps. In this case, the lighting units are simply connected in parallel.

For example, the phase wire coming from the switch can be put in a separate box. Inside its housing, insert the end of this wire into the terminal block or other wiring harness. And on the other side of such a contact group, two wires must be connected at the same time. These two phases must supply both lamps.

For "bifurcation" of wires you can use the universal Wago terminal block: one plug is inserted The incoming cable, and the remaining - two outgoing; such a connection must be made on each of the three veins

Another option: both wires from the illuminating devices should be inserted into one output of the switch. The disadvantage is that one of the ends in the process of exploitation can fall out of contact.

Video: how to connect a one-key and two-key switch

Usually the single-key switch serves for a long time. If the key stops snapping, it is better to replace the node completely. Modern switches are not easily repairable. Most often, such a malfunction occurs: one of the wires falls out of contact. Then you need to hit the key with a screwdriver, loosen the opened bolts, pull out the base, insert the contact into place and fix it. However, failures, as a rule, occur rarely, if equipment of well-known manufacturers is used.

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