The washing machine does not collect water: causes of breakdowns and their elimination

Water supply problems are one of the most common problems that many owners of washing machines are familiar with. But although modern devices immediately signal their malfunction with symbols on the display or with a wink of light indicators, it can be difficult to find the culprit.

Therefore, let us examine in detail why the washing machine does not collect water: sometimes the causes of the malfunctions can be resolved on their own.

Fault signals from popular models

If water is not supplied to the machine at all, the essence of the problem is clear. But sometimes the device simply does not receive enough water for a full wash or rinse: we see that the drum is not empty and can not orient with the cause of the malfunction.

In this case, the signals of the machine itself, which are displayed on the display immediately or after running the diagnostics, will help.

Water intake problem codes for some popular models:

• Asko - Water inlet fault or E01.
• Zanussi and Electrolux - E10 or E11.
• Candy - E02.
• Ariston, Hotpoint Ariston and Indesit - H2O.
• Samsung - E1.
• LG - PE or IE.
• Whirlpool - F01 or FH.
• Bosh - F01 or Aquastop.

If the washing machine is not equipped with a display, the flashing lights on the panel will tell you about the causes of the malfunction.

This code is programmed at the factory, so its value depends on the specific model (the decoding table is attached to the product manual).

Simple troubleshooting

Most often, problems with water intake arise due to improper operation of the washing machine. And some of them can be eliminated even without replacement of parts, without resorting to the services of a repair shop.

Problem # 1 - water outages

If the machine signals a shortage of water, the first step is to check the presence of pressure in the water supply. Moreover, if there is water in the tap, the supply valve to the washer itself, which is installed directly on the pipe leading to the appliance, may be shut off.

The actions in this case are simple: if the valve is closed, it should be opened, if there is no water, postpone washing until it appears.

With insufficient pressure, the machine can start the execution of the program, but it will fill the drum for a very long time and constantly fail at the water intake stage. Therefore, it is better to stop washing and continue it when a normal stream flows from the tap.

Problem # 2 - the filler hose or filter is blocked

The water supply from the water supply to the tank of the washing machine takes place through the filling hose. In fact, it is a long flexible tube with nuts and fittings, one end of which is connected to the appliance, and the other is connected to the water supply system.

Make a hose of polyvinyl chloride, reinforced with synthetic fibers or steel wire to it withstood the pressure of water, but, despite the strength, over time, the material may grind and require replacements.

But most often the problem lies in the blockage, which overlaps the narrow lumen of the tube and does not give the typewriter full access to the water flow.

To test this guess, you need to disconnect the hose from the machine, inspect the filler filter and the inlet.

Cleaning is performed as follows:

1. The water supply to the washing machine is turned off (if a valve is provided) or in the entire system. The device is de-energized.
2. The filler hose is removed, rinsed under good water pressure and examined for wrinkles and other damage.
3. In the place where the tube is attached to the washing machine, a fine-mesh mesh will be visible - this is the filter. It must be carefully pulled out with pliers, cleaned with a small brush and rinsed with water.
4. To check the operation of the filter, put the mesh on the hose, place it over the bath and open the water supply. If the flow of water goes under a good pressure - everything is in order.
5. At the same time it is worth examining the pipe connecting the hose with the water supply system - perhaps it also needs cleaning.

Then you need to mount the system in reverse order, connect the machine and check the water supply.

Problem # 3 - the hatch is not blocked when closing

When the door of the washing machine closes with difficulty and without a characteristic click, the locking device does not work, without a signal from which the control board will not start the mode you have selected.

There are several possible causes of failure:

1. The hatch cannot close tightly due to damage to the plastic guide., which is under the tongue for fixation. Usually, such a breakdown occurs during long-term use of the machine, when the door hinges weaken from time or frequent use.
2. A niche that includes a latch tongue may be clogged due to a buildup from soap.. In this case, you need to clean it from dirt and rinse. At the same time, inspect the tongue itself - a rod could fall out of it, which serves as a mount.
3. The most difficult problem is a malfunction of the board or programmer.. If the control device burned out the elements responsible for locking the hatch, you will have to rewire the tracks, replace the damaged parts or the entire controller.

But the most common failure is a skewed door due to hinges weakened when the device is operated at high speeds or mechanical damage. If the hatch does not close completely, tighten the fasteners or completely replace the hinges.

To do this, remove the front collar from the cuff, bend the gum and tighten the nut connecting the hinges with the body of the washer with a key to avoid twisting. Then unscrew the bolt and remove the hatch with the mount.

The door itself consists of an internal and external decorative flange, between which there is a glass "window".

To disassemble it, you need to unscrew the fastening screws around the perimeter and carefully separate the elements. Now you can pull out the worn loop and replace it with a new one, then reconnect the halves with “native” fasteners.

The device blocking the opening of the hatch also breaks down. You can test its performance using a multimeter.

The lock must be removed from the machine, switch the switch to test mode, connect one probe to zero, the second to the phase, and then also separately check the neutral and common contact. If 1 or 0 is displayed, the lock is faulty and needs to be replaced.

Failure of individual parts

If a visual inspection and cleaning of the contaminants did not give a positive result, the machine most likely indicates a breakdown of certain parts that are responsible for drawing water to the desired level.

In most cases, they can be dispensed with by cleaning or restoration, but sometimes it is necessary to replace broken elements.

№1 - malfunction of the water supply valve

From the water supply system to the washing tank, water is supplied by high pressure, and this pressure is controlled by the inlet (fill) valve.

It works like this: a current is applied to the coil, creating an electromagnetic field, under the influence of which the shutter opens and gives access to the flow from the aqueduct.

When the tank is filled, the control module sends a signal that the power supply to the valve coil is cut off, as a result of which the valve is lowered and blocks water.

To inspect the valve, you must first dismantle it. To do this, de-energize the device, remove the filler hose and the mesh, and at the same time wash the filter.

Then open the cover of the machine, disconnect the wiring from the part, the branch pipes and, depending on the type of fasteners, bend the latches or unscrew the bolts. It remains to turn the valve and pull it out of the body of the machine.

Now you can check the operation of the element. First, a filler hose is connected to the valve, water is supplied and inspected for leaks - there will be no serviceable valve.

Then measure the resistance on each coil with a multimeter. A normal indicator is 2-4 kΩ.

You can also verify the correct operation of the gate by applying a voltage of 220 V alternately to each section: the valve should open and the de-energized one close.

Of course, you can try to give the "second life" of the details, replacing the burnt winding, but there is no guarantee of the success of such a repair.

Therefore, it is much easier to buy a new valve, because it is inexpensive, and it changes simply - it is enough to assemble the structure in the reverse order.

But if the electronics are in good condition, it is possible that the valve is clogged or a foreign object has penetrated there that interferes with normal operation. In this case, you can disassemble the part and clean it.

№2 - breakage of the pressure switch and replacement instructions

Controls the filling of the tank typewriter water level sensor (pressure switch). This is a small round-shaped element made of plastic, to which a cable loop and a tube leading from a high-pressure tank are connected.

It works like this: when the tank is installed, a pressure is supplied through the tube corresponding to the desired water level for each mode, depending on which relay opens / closes the contacts.

If the pressure switch breaks, the machine may simply not draw water, refusing to work on the washing and rinsing program or, on the contrary, constantly pour it off without holding it in the tank.

To check the operation of the pressure switch, unscrew the mounting bolts, disconnect the wires and hose. It is held by a clamp, which should either be squeezed out with pliers, or simply unscrewed.

Then inspect the device itself and its tube for mechanical damage and blockages. If the hose is blocked, it should be removed and rinsed, and the contaminated contacts of the pressure switch should be cleaned.

If no blockage is found, you can check the pressure switch with a small length (10–15 cm will be quite enough) of a hose of the same diameter as the tube removed from the sensor.

To do this, you need to attach one end of the new hose to the sensor inlet, and blow the second inlet into the water tank - the working element will have clicks.

You can also use a multimeter to test - conductivity values ​​should change with increasing pressure.

If the pressure switch is out of order, you need to buy a new device suitable for your washing machine model. You can check on the marking indicated on the part itself.

Then connect the handset, plug in the contacts and fix the sensor with bolts, that is, reassemble and check the operation of the machine.

№3 - board failure or programmer failure

In the event of a malfunction of the control device, the machine simply does not receive an “order” to draw water. The easiest way to eliminate the failure of the electronics is to de-energize the device for 10-20 minutes, then plug it in and try to restart the desired program.

Perhaps the controller will reboot and the machine will start working. But take note of the fact that such a failure is the first bell indicating the upcoming repairs in the future.

Most often, the electronics of the washing machine fails for such reasons:

1. High humidity in the roomwhere the device is installed, leads to the fact that the contacts dampen and depart. You can try to remove and dry the board (even blow a hairdryer at low revs) and subsequently monitor that the humidity level does not exceed 70%.
2. Water penetration into the control unit. Much depends on the brand and manufacturer of the machine. In some models, for example, Samsung and LG, the “brain” of the device is completely sealed and protected from such troubles, and in the same Indesit or Ariston the board can get wet during washing or when carrying device.
3. Line voltage or low voltage. For a washing machine, you need to provide a dedicated outlet, and the connection through the stabilizer will help to level the drops.
4. Power cord bend, old socket or plug with faulty contacts - all these nuances need to be eliminated and, if necessary, replace worn parts.

If you suspect a malfunction of the main chip, you need to ring the multimeter all the elements that are responsible for managing the water set.

The most frequent problem is the breakdown of the triac control of the filler valve - the element at the signal of which the machine starts to draw water. But they can also burn tracks, solder, fail diodes, relays or resistors in the valve control circuit.

Visually, you can identify the problem by the following features:

1. On the chip there are areas of changed color, darkened tracks, soot or tan.
2. On the damping coils was found burned varnish.
3. The “legs” of the microcircuit are darkened or the burners are visible at the installation site of the processor.
4. The “caps” of the capacitors acquired a convex shape or were torn from a cross-cut.

If you have experience with microchips, you can try to clear “suspicious” connections using contact cleaning fluid.

If it is only a matter of sludge or contamination from the ingress of a soap solution, the conductivity of the contacts should be restored.

But if this did not help, you should replace the elements that did not pass the test with a multimeter, solder the newly burned tracks and soldering and, if necessary, reflash the board.

Independent repair of electronics is worth it, if the warranty period of the device has already expired and you are confident in your skills with a soldering iron and multimeter.

But if there is no experience in such a “resuscitation”, you can completely replace the board with an identical one or contact the service center for help.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

For a better idea of ​​the upcoming repair work, we suggest studying step-by-step video instructions on how to troubleshoot various problems in which the washing machine will not be able to draw water into the tank.

How to clean the filler hose filter:

Dismantling the inlet valve of the washing machine and cleaning it:

Disassembling and repairing a hatch lock device:

The principle of operation, performance check and replacement of the pressure switch:

As you see Most of the problems with water intake at the washing machine are quite accessible to solve on their own, and the components for modern appliances can be easily found in the free market. But if the cause of failure in electronics, it is better to entrust its repair to an experienced master.