Electric blender - a multi-purpose appliance that can chop vegetables and fruits to the consistency of a light sauce. Also, applying the addition nozzle, it can be used to make a salad, mousse, mayonnaise, cream and much more.
There are submersible and table blenders. In functionality, they are similar, but slightly different appearance. Table blender or stationary, it resembles a cup or pitcher of the engine and mounted within the knife.
Such devices are mainly used where large volumes are needed. It can be: cafes, restaurants and canteens. At home, the more suitable immersion blender. It is cheaper and more compact than the first. Therefore, it is popular among ordinary housewives.
By itself, a blender - not quite a complicated structure of the device. In fact, its main part - it's an electric motor in a housing that has several levels of speed and universal coupling adapter.
By coupling fitted onto the motor shaft can be connected different addition nozzles depending on the type of work performed.
If you want to make pyureshku, the suit submerged nozzle or "leg". If you need to get shredded vegetables and fruits - bowl with a rotating knife inside. A cook cream helps a metal whisk.
All of these tips have usually included with any blender. But sometimes it can not be the cup, but it's a low-cost version of the device.
Despite its simplicity, this device use is quite convenient. The fact that the motor unit itself is practically not spoiled, so do not need to be washed after use. He unfastened from the nozzle, and put in a box.
With regard to the individual manufacturer or model, it is already on the user's choice. The best course to take the products of proven brands, but also among the less well-known companies also have decent options.
Then, as luck would have. What are the materials and who collected the device in this shift.
In this regard, it would be useful to know: the device, the main problems and the self-help.
The following article will describe the reason for the fault and eliminate it in a blender model Saturn ST-FP0049. Immediately it should be noted that, despite the company manufacturer, design and failure in all blenders of the type are not much different.
Therefore, the method of removal of damage in a single device, can be successfully applied in the repair of another vehicle.
Malfunction of this blender is that it is for no apparent reason has ceased to respond to the engine starting controls.
As therein two speeds, respectively, and two buttons on the side of the housing.
When you click on that - nothing happens, even though the device is plugged into the network.
The simplest thing you can be in this case - is damage to the cord. It can be both inside and outside. When the cord from the outside does not have visible damage, to understand the problem in it or not, it is not possible without removing the case.
Therefore, we proceed to disassembly.
One of the difficulties that can arise when removing blender body, especially well-known brands - it is not a collapsible housing. Although such an arrangement protects the motor and electronics from the ingress of moisture, during disassembly, it creates additional difficulties.
Sometimes there is no other way to get inside, as soon as the body with a hacksaw to saw and glue back after repair.
But in the case of this blender, do not need this. Here, even the appearance is noticeable that the housing consists of two halves, and thus understands without a saw.
We must start by dismantling the two screws. But it is not all that easy. If you look closely, you can see that the screws have a slot on the cap not a regular screwdriver. The slot has a tripartite form stars.
Usually household tools such screwdriver is not found. Out of the situation helps usual straight screwdriver with a tip of a certain width.
That is, it should enter at the same time in the two notches slot. Very good came screwdriver - phase pointer.
More importantly, during the rotation of the screw press it so as not to "lick" the brink of the slot.
With the help of the screws were unscrewed. Further, it is necessary to remove the top cover. It rests on the plastic tabs.
To remove it, you will need a knife with a thin blade. Gently poddevat cover and release the latch in a circle.
The main thing is not to break them, or cover after the installation will not be kept. If one, still broken - it does not matter, the two will be enough.
Under the hood revealed the four screws. Some fasten the upper part of the body, while others hold the cord.
Screws usual, Phillips screwdriver. Therefore, the problem with them should not be.
Unscrew the screws fixing the housing.
Next, you need to divide it into halves. They also like the cover, held together by latches. To separate them, you can use a knife, but to weld plastic damage was minimal, it is best suited cards.
Insert it into the gap between the halves, starting with the coupling fixing points on the motor shaft, and conduct map gradually over the entire length.
As advancement pawl are disengaged, and the clearance between the halves increases.
The same as we do with the other hand.
When all tabs are emptied, remove the lid, the one with the buttons.
Now, open access to the engine and its control board.
Engine manifold, DC 500 watts. As the current collector used graphite brush.
The clutch is fitted directly on the shaft without the use of gears.
From each brush housing is connected to the capacitor reducing arcing of their interference.
Control buttons consist of a microswitch with two terminals each, and plastic levers.
Consistently with the button reduced speed, it has a powerful diode, which "quenches" part of the voltage supplied to the motor.
It is also possible to notice board fuse link (fuse) F1, and designated by the letter inrush current limiter or thermistor U1 (MF 72).
The fuse has a glass casing which is wearing Heat-insulating.
At the entrance of the board set the throttle in the form of a toroidal ring and a pair of coils of wire wound on it. It is designed to suppress interference network.
At first, we check the fuse integrity.
To do this, take an ohmmeter or voltage pointer with vertebrae chain.
Not vypaivaya of the board parallel to connect the device terminals.
The indicator shows the chain, which means that the fuse is intact.
Next, check thermistor.
In Scheme it, as well as the fuse is mounted in series with a power cord that is only in the other wire.
Putting the pointer parallel thermistor.
On this board to do it is not very convenient, because you need or use the device with thinner probes, or remove the card, and to ring the thermistor from the tracks.
In this case, you can use a multimeter. His subtle findings that facilitates access to difficult accessible parts on the board.
To test the device works, and whether its cord is damaged, you must set the switch to measure resistance and short-circuit the probes. If the indicator shows the circuit means operating device and is ready for measurement.
Now, connect the multimeter terminals parallel thermistor.
Multimeter showed an open circuit. This indicates a fault in the radioactive element.
Defective thermistor is not a big resistance and should show a chain.
This blender used thermistor of NTC, the series MF72-006D9.
This instrument without leakage therethrough load has a resistance of about 6 ohms. With the passage of the load, the resistance is reduced to 0.315 ohms, which practically does not affect the voltage applied to the motor.
It turns out that when switched on, when the current in the circuit increases dramatically, more than three times, and the cold thermistor has a resistance of 6 ohms. Thus, taking the portion of inrush current. Further, it is heated and its resistance decreases to a value of 0.315 ohms, and has a stable current charge and feeds the engine.
This is the thermistor function - to protect the electronics from power surges.
This series is designed for thermistor current flowing through it in 2 A.
Such a device can be purchased in the online store at the price of US $ 1 per piece. You can find cheaper, looking where to buy. Usually, buying a larger quantity, the seller provides a significant discount.
In addition to this series, you can use other thermistors, the main thing that they were designed for the same operating current and voltage.
These other elements can be found in the manufacturer's handbook.
If you can not wait for the details, you can temporarily shorted thermistor terminals. Nothing really terrible in this regard does not happen, as many manufacturers of blenders do not make them in the diagram.
In any case, do you have the item or not, for the further work, a fee should be removed. Fasten it on the three screws. Two, close to the motor, and one near the exit cord.
Unscrew them Phillips screwdriver, counterclockwise.
To charge can be easily rotated, you should also unscrew the cable fixing screws.
Now you can flip the board and continue to work.
For one, you can see the length of the brush, whether they relate to the collector.
Often bending lug brush spring - not desirable. It may break and then you have to be something to think about with a spring stop.
Therefore, to assess the length of the brushes can be by looking at how much they get out of the holder and how much of it remained inside. If it is not visible, it is possible to stick the top of the brush holder and needle along the length of the needle determine the value.
With poor nip to a collector due to insufficient length, the engine can not be supplied. In this case, the brush should be replaced. There certainly can not do without extension petal brush holder.
This blender with brushes all is well.
Another important item on the board - a diode bridge. Here it is made as a module. On two of its output AC voltage is supplied from the circuit board, and with the other two, is removed the DC voltage to the motor.
It happens that this module is out of order, but as the problem should be sought on the basis of the network to the motor, one problem has been found, and it does not fuse. And in case of failure of the diode bridge, the first "burn" by him.
Consequently, the bridge is safe and not worth his while to touch. In the event that after the replacement of the thermistor, the engine still does not work, check buttons, well after - the diode bridge.
So, back to the thermistors.
Turning the card, you can see the places soldering thermistor.
If you already have a serviceable old vypayat need, and the new put in its place. Well, if there is no serviceable - short-circuit device terminals.
Of it, you can not desoldering. Jumper get as a piece of copper wire, and a molten tin, making it a track. This method is good connection when a small distance between the soldering places, and when over time, the jumper must be removed.
Preheat soldering tin drop recruit and attaching it to one of the terminals, gently pull the other.
Usually should be no problems. The main thing is a good warm up the joints to tin did not waver from bumps, for example.
Here's how it looks on the board.
It is important to check that the tin did not get to other tracks and has not closed them. This can help a magnifying loupe.
Now we stack all in the lower part of the body and try to gently turn. It is better not to press the finger, and a plastic handle, for example.
If everything works, collect the blender in the reverse order. First fasten the board and cord, and, put on the top half of the body.
Putting the engine, you should pay attention to the position of the clutch. It should not go beyond the body.
The engine also has to "sit" half in each of the parts.
Gently snap fit the two half shells to nowhere in the gaps.
Further, an upper part fastened with screws and put on the decorative cap.
Contractible bottom casing screws.
Now we turn the plug into the network and check the operation of the blender.
First, at a lower speed, and after a "turbo" mode.
In both cases, the blender is working correctly. Do I need to do to put a thermistor or not is hard to say. In principle, the blender works without it. Particularly sensitive electronics in the blender no. But in view of the small value of the thermistor, replace burned with the serviceable, not be difficult, and high costs. Therefore, it is possible to do this.
In any case, using the correct device, extra-large currents during start-up should not be. And it should be a thermistor or not, it is still better not to include the "turbo" mode when cutting solid materials. Wise to their pre-grind a knife or at low speed, and after a high-speed mode.
Do not include a blender without load, that is, with an empty cup. Well, do not exceed the hours specified in the instruction manual.
Usually, the violation of these rules and lead to device failure.
That's all. Take care of equipment, and it will properly serve you for years to come.
