Growing white cabbage in the open ground - varieties, seedlings, fertilizing, pest control

Growing white cabbage in the open - it's not so simple. I can not say that I know everything about cabbage. Of course not. But some secrets of growing white cabbage can share. I grow it every year. In the first years of her truck farming she was afraid. It all seemed to me that I could not manage it. The very first problems I had at the stage of choosing a variety. Then I had to look for information, ask the more experienced truck farmers about fertilizers and fertilizing. And about the unfortunate moments of the fight against pests and do not want to remember. Now everything is over. Cabbage grows, it pleases me and my loved ones.


  • Varieties, white cabbage hybrids
  • Growing Cabbage Seeds - Conditions, Features
  • Top-dressing of cabbage in the open ground
  • How to prevent cracking of cabbage heads
  • Control of pests of cabbage

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Varieties, white cabbage hybrids

Varieties, white cabbage hybrids are very many. According to the terms of ripening, they are divided into early, middle, middle, middle and late-ripening. Early and middle-aged varieties are usually grown for summer consumption (salads, soups, borsch, second dishes). Middle-aged varieties can be sour. In fresh form they are well kept until the New Year. The latter varieties of cabbage are kept well until the new harvest.

I really like Dutch hybrids. Usually I plant early or medium-early varieties - they manage to escape from the July heat.

Cabbage Parel F1

Last year, the early hybrids of Nozomi F1 and Parel F1 were grown. I fell in love with both varieties, one can say, at first sight. Very large leaves, large juicy head - very pleasant delicate taste. Well-established varieties such as Kazachok F1 - early, ripens in 45-55 days, Amtrak F1 - late-ripening hybrid, cabbage weighing up to 3 kg - very tasty, juicy, sweet, well kept until new harvest.

The seeds of Nozomi F1, Parel F1
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Growing Cabbage Seeds - Conditions, Features

Grow white cabbage seedlings. Among the medium-late varieties yield a good harvest Agressor-F1, Krasnodar 1, Braunschweig (one of the best for souring), Mozharskaya, Gift, Yelenovskaya, Stolichnaya, Judge 146 of the later - Amager 611, Kharkov winter, Snow White, Lika, Ukrainian Autumn, Biryuchekutsk 13, Sugar head.

After emergence of shoots in the first stage, seedling coverage should be sufficient. You can not let it stretch out. For the future harvest of cabbage it is very important that the distance from the ground to the cotyledon leaves is no more than -3 cm. A longer stem will weaken the seedlings. And so that this does not happen, the temperature regime of cabbage seedlings is not less important, since it does not tolerate a high room temperature. Try immediately after the emergence of seedlings to take out seedlings in a room where at night + 6-8 ° C, and in the daytime + 10 ° C for 5-7 days. At this time, water only when necessary.

Dwarf cabbage sprouts when 2-3 real leaves appear. Cabbage seedlings do not like picking, so the day before, spray it with Epin-Extra or HB-101 (see the instructions for dosage). Day after two spraying repeat. This will help to remove the negative impact of stress on plants. But it is best to grow seedlings in peat pills or cassette boxes.

White cabbage grows better, yields good crops if its predecessors were pumpkins, zucchini, onions, beans, peas, tomatoes, peppers, eggplants. It is not recommended to re-plant cabbage in the same place. It is best to do this not earlier than in 4 years. By this you will prevent illnesses, protect cabbage plants from pests that hibernate in the soil.

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Top-dressing of cabbage in the open ground

Experience suggests that the best means of increasing the yield are feeding. For cabbage, the optimal number of feedings per season is three:

  • after, -2 weeks after landing in the open ground - with manure solution (1 part of manure for 5 parts of water) - 1 bucket of solution is divided into approximately 10 bushes of cabbage;
  • the beginning of twisting the leaves into the heads - in the manure solution (1 part of the manure in 5 parts of water) add 1-2 tablespoons of ash - 1 bucket of the solution is divided into 5 cabbage roots;
  • After 3 weeks, feed the first solution - 1 bucket per 10 plants.

If you notice that the cabbage leaves have a pale color, then add urea (15 grams per bucket of liquid) to the solution.

It is very important to feed the seedlings, and even the plants themselves with mineral fertilizers, which contain boron and molybdenum. Well suited for this is Fertik Lux (formerly called Kemira Lux).

Cabbage belongs to those vegetables that can tell their gardeners what they lack in their care, and how we overfed it.

When there is a shortage of nitrogen, the lower leaves become yellowish-greenish, sometimes this color turns into pinkish, and then these leaves begin to dry out. Kochan ceases to grow, remains shallow.


If the plant lacks potassium, the leaves become wrinkled, strongly wavy. Lower leaves from the edges begin to lighten, then turn yellow, and finally bore.

With a lack of calcium in young plants appear whitish spots, and at the edges of the leaves are white stripes. In adults, the edges of the leaves begin to twist. If you do not help the plant in time (and it should be done much earlier than the cabbage ripens), then the point of growth of the head is dying, it freely breaks away from the attachment point.

When there is a shortage of magnesium or manganese, the lower leaves of the plant become lighter, and in the intervals between the veins appears marbling, although immediately around the veins and the veins themselves remain green. The leaves are juicy, brittle. By the way, the shortage of these elements in the soil is quite a frequent occurrence in any growing region. And it is the cabbage that most often suffers from this.


The lack of boron and molybdenum affects the size of the heads, besides, small children may be tied between leaves, which will take away nutrients from the main head. Plants can go to color without forming heads. The kocherzyzhka has hollows in cabbage (such cabbage will not be stored) - there is not enough boron in the soil.

The lack of phosphorus is noticeable in the dullness of the leaves, they become dark green with a strong purple hue. Kochan is not fastened very long.

During the formation of the head, the lower leaves are removed, with more nutrients coming into the head. The soil after rain, watering must loosen. Weeds need to be destroyed in time, although the cabbage itself does a good job with them, but already when it expanded in breadth. The site should be well blown by the wind. Hilling is one of the important agro-practices in the cultivation of cabbage, as it creates conditions for the appearance of additional lateral roots, and this is an additional supply of food for the heads.

First time cabbage should be watered more often, since at the beginning of development a powerful rosette of leaves is formed. Lack of water affects not only yields, but it is noticeable visually - first a gray bloom appears on the leaves, then they turn slightly pink, and the edges of the leaves begin to bend. Excess water also harms plants - the growth of heads is delayed, large heads can not be obtained at the same time.

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How to prevent cracking of cabbage heads

Why do cabbage cabbage crack?

  • Firstly, the soil should not dry out during the tying and formation of heads. This is then possible to reduce the number of irrigation.
  • Secondly, watering in the period of intensive growth of heads will lead to their cracking. Therefore, 2-3 weeks before harvesting, watering should be stopped altogether.
  • Third, try to grow varieties that do not crack with excess moisture.

There is an interesting and witty way to prevent cracking of heads. Usually this happens when there are unregulated watering or constant rains. The method reduces the intake of moisture in the head of cabbage - cracking stops. Turn the head out along with the root system for half a turn. Part of the roots breaks off - the supply of excess moisture will be interrupted. The cracking will stop. This will not prevent the ripening and compaction of the head of cabbage.

For the late varieties, light frosts are not terrible. They will transfer the temperature drop to -6 ° C. But if this cabbage is intended for long-term storage, it is better to remove it from the field before the onset of night frosts.

The most dense heads are left for storage. All leaves from them do not break off - leave 2-3 green outer sheets. The root stalk, a stump, is also not cut off completely - leave 2-4 cm.

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Control of pests of cabbage

Cabbage has many pests. To minimize the use of chemical agents, it is advisable to plant plants that attract insects that destroy pests on plant beds. These are plants such as dill, carrots. Dill I advise you to sow twice during the ripening period of cabbage. The first time at the same time as the planting of the seedlings, and the second time - in two weeks. It is useful to plant celery between cabbage beds. He discourages a cabbage fly. With it you can also cope with the help of tobacco dust. Usually tobacco dust is mixed (:) with soil or sand, and then poured around the plants.

Cruciferous fleas are another malicious pest of cabbage. From it, periodic pollination of cabbage plants with wood ash or spraying with an ash solution (1 cup of ash, 100-150 g, per bucket of water) will help.

Sole-soap solution, infusion of dandelion roots will scare off cabbage aphids. The procedure of spraying is repeated every 2 weeks.

To ensure that your slugs are not infested with slugs, sprinkle powdered food mustard, black pepper, large eggshell on the ground around the heads.

Cabbage under the sponbond №17

But the pest now resistant to survival went. Not every year people help me. Very well proved to be a preparation Kinmiks against cabbage whitecaps, scoops, moths. I process immediately after 5 days after planting the seedlings in the evening, because the drug is dangerous for bees. The instruction recommends repeating the treatment every three weeks, but I process it once. And then I cover the garden with the thinnest SPB-17 spunbond. Sometimes I even pour through it, without lifting it. He passes the rain and the sun well, but he does not tolerate any flea-beetles to cabbage. Of course, the covering material protects plants from sudden fluctuations in humidity, but it is noticed that it is not necessary to water at the same time - the moisture at the shelter also evaporates quickly, as without it. Probably this is due to the thickness of the covering material - it's the thinnest of all that is. Spanbondom a large area with cabbage to cover a bit complicated, but I plant 10-12 roots, so there is no difficulty. The edges of the spunbond should be well covered with earth.

But here I must share one secret. Actually, I already mentioned it - cabbage can not be planted in the same place. Do not help spunbond from Simuliidae, if you plant it there, where it grew last year. They are wintering in the land - they will find your cabbage without any problems.

Marigolds will protect cabbage from pests

I'll tell you about another way to protect white cabbage from pests. I want to try it this year. The essence of this method is in sowing between rows of cabbage of tall marigolds (we call them black-hens). Between the rows of cabbage seedlings are two rows of flowers. Marigolds will grow much higher than cabbage, they will protect it from the hot sun, in the soil moisture will be better preserved, there will be no flea beetles - they do not like such flowers.

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