Suspended ceiling fan: selection rules and nuances of self-assembly

Are you planning to renovate your bathroom with a false ceiling? Perhaps the stretch ceiling in the room has begun to grow moldy and smell foul? In this case, it is necessary to install a fan in the suspended ceiling for forced ventilation.

Ceiling installation instead of the usual wall installation has a number of advantages: ventilation is not so noticeable, possibly construction of a system of various configurations with air intake at any one or several points, including residential rooms.

In this article, we will talk about how to choose and install the fan correctly, consider the diagrams its connection to electricity and features of the installation of ventilation ducts under tension and suspended ceilings.

When is a ceiling fan needed?

Before you sew up the rough ceiling with plasterboard, slats, plastic or a stretch canvas, it is necessary to predict whether humid air will stagnate in the resulting cavity.

If there is such a possibility, over time, a musty smell will appear from under the ceiling, and mold and mildew will appear at the joints. Preventing this pattern can be exhaust fan.

Ventilation is necessary in such cases:

1. In the bathroom and in the toilet - both the ceiling space and the room itself need effective ventilation.
2. The stretch ceiling of the kitchen must also be ventilated, even if the hood is installed above the stove. Otherwise, deformations and condensation due to temperature changes cannot be avoided.
3. In a private house, if there is an unheated attic above the main ceiling with wooden beams, and the ceiling is mounted from PVC film, plastic or drywall.
4. If the suspended ceiling is installed below an existing ventilation opening, blocking it.
5. In a pantry, laundry room, dressing room and similar premises - the door opens quite rarely and for a short time, and therefore the slightest excess of moisture gives a musty smell and can cause the appearance of a fungus.

Depending on the conditions of a particular room, in some of the listed cases, it is sufficient to install a pair of ventilation grilles in opposite corners of the ceiling. They will combine the interceiling space with the main one, and therefore compensate for temperature drops in the room and will not allow the air to stagnate.

However, if the air is polluted or too humid in the entire room, it is necessary to install stretch ceiling fan for forced ventilation.

There are also situations when the arrangement of a hood in the ceiling is optional and even impractical. For example, if the height of the room after filing the ceiling becomes less than 265 cm, the fan on the wall will be more efficient than the ceiling fan.

In addition, rack and fabric stretch ceilings, structures in rooms with low humidity, without temperature changes, with concrete rough ceilings, need less ventilation. If in your case at least 2 - 3 of the listed factors agree, you can do with natural ventilation or even completely without it.

Features of choosing a ceiling fan

After analyzing the situation, you will already know in what conditions the fan will work and what functions are assigned to it. When equipping ventilation in a suspended ceiling, you will need to build a channel - an air duct.

On the one hand, it is convenient: a hidden channel can be brought out at any point on the ceiling of a house or apartment, arrange a whole system of such channels, served by several independent overhead or one duct fan. Additional wiring gives independence from the location of the ventilation shafts in the apartment.

However, each additional meter and bend of the duct increases the resistance and reduces the draft, which means that the fan power needs to be increased.

How to choose, assemble and connect everything necessary for the ventilation system, we will tell below.

Overhead or channel: how to decide?

When installing the fan on the wall, directly in the opening of the ventilation shaft, this question does not arise: only overhead models are suitable there. A duct fan can also be hidden under the ceiling, providing traction through several air intakes at different points.

Its advantage is the ability to provide uniform ventilation of the entire bathroom, even with a large area, as well as connect all air ducts from other rooms to a single device. However, this means that it will be possible to ventilate only all rooms at the same time, and this is not always convenient. In addition, it is necessary to provide a hatch in the ceiling for servicing the fan.

In practice, overhead models are usually preferred in apartments, and ducted models in private houses with a large bathroom or complex ventilation system.

We calculate the required power of the device

This parameter is one of the most important, directly related to performance. Different models are capable of passing from 50 to 250 m³ per hour, and sometimes more. But this does not mean at all that a fan with a capacity of 50m³/ h is able to effectively serve a room of the same volume: this can be true only for a pantry or dressing room.

For other rooms, the performance of the fan should be several times higher than the volume of the room: for a room - 3 times, for a bathroom - 7 - 10 times, for a kitchen - 6 - 8 times. The coefficient depends on the number of tenants and the activity of using the premises. In addition, a performance margin is required to push air along ventilation duct: depending on the complexity of its design, from 5 to 20%.

As a result, in order to calculate the required fan performance, it is necessary to multiply the area of ​​the room by the height of the ceiling and the air exchange rate, and then add 5 - 20%. Please note that when installing a duct fan for servicing several rooms, the required performance is calculated for each room, and then they are summed up.

Fan noise parameters

The noise generated by the fan can significantly affect the comfort of the occupants. This is especially true for the ventilation of living rooms.

The best overhead models produce no more than 25 - 30 dB, louder ones - up to 50 dB. Duct fans have some advantage in this regard: they can be installed outside the living area.

The following characteristics reduce the fan noise:

• plain bearing instead of rollers and balls;
• bronze bushing instead of steel;
• plastic ventilation duct instead of metal;
• fan blades without sharp corners, including at the ends;
• solid decorative panel, with holes in the center and on the sides;
• small angle of attack of the blades;
• installation on silicone sealant or other vibration-absorbing gasket.

You shouldn't skimp on this feature, because a too noisy fan will be annoying, and you just won't use it.

Dependence on the purpose of the room

Different rooms in the house differ in microclimate: in the bathroom there is a lot of steam and temperature drops, in the toilet there is an unpleasant smell and musty. In the kitchen, the air is overheated, greasy, sometimes smoky, with odors that are not always desirable in other rooms - and cooker hood, does not solve all problems.

In addition, in the closet or dressing room, the air stagnates and gives things an unpleasant, musty smell, and in the bedroom or living room sometimes lacks oxygen, especially with plastic windows or a large company guests.

A properly selected fan can eliminate or minimize these differences. The main thing is to observe the required frequency of air exchange, choosing the power.

Also note that the fan in the kitchen should have removable filters, in the bathroom - protection from moisture, and only the quietest models are suitable for living rooms.

Fan control methods

The efficiency of its operation and the comfort of the residents depend on how convenient it is to turn on and correctly set the fan.

Depending on the place of installation and the wishes of the owner, the fan can work:

• together with light - connection to a light bulb or general switch;
• switched on and off manually - with a separate switch. A model with a cord or a button on the case, for obvious reasons, is not installed in the ceiling;
• after a specified period of time after turning on the light - start delay timer;
• turn on with light, and turn off by timer - work in toilet mode;
• turn on when the light is turned off, turn off by timer - bathroom mode.
• maintain a given level of humidity - at the command of a hygrometer, or temperature - by a thermometer;
• run from a door opening, light or motion sensor - options are not for a bathroom;
• by command from the remote control.

Depending on the choice of the method of switching on, pay attention to the presence of a built-in timer and hygrometer, a switch on the case and a mode switch.

Of course, any fan can be connected using external sensors, but usually they are less reliable and durable. It also complicates installation and is often more expensive than purchasing a complete fan.

At the same time, you should not overpay for unnecessary functions: for example, a hygrometer in the living room or kitchen is useless.

What else to consider when choosing?

In addition to the listed characteristics, the fans are distinguished by the presence of some additional functions and equipment. So, check valve will prevent the ingress of dirty air from the ventilation shaft into the room when the fan is off.

The presence of protection against moisture, at least IP45 is useful in a bathroom, especially when installed directly above a bath or shower.

Also, security will add power from 12 V instead of 220. It is convenient to connect such fans to LED lighting.

The functionality may include the possibility of airing - constant operation at minimum speed, with their increase if necessary. In addition, the rotation speed control can be smooth, 2 - 3-stage, or completely absent.

The design of some models is capable of disguising the fan in the ceiling or vice versa, making it a stylish interior detail. In addition to the variety of colors, shapes and materials of the front panel, it can be equipped with a backlight or display.

Self-assembly of the ceiling fan

Of course, inserting the fan directly into the hole on the wall is the simplest solution, almost everyone can handle this task. However, in a suspended ceiling made of plasterboard, plastic or slats, you can arrange ventilation yourself, especially if you did not hire specialists for finishing.

Under the stretch ceiling, you can prepare and mount in advance ventilation duct, when stretching the ceiling, ask the craftsmen to cut a hole for the fan, and then connect it yourself.

In any case, you first need to think over and design everything, select and purchase equipment, and then assemble the system like a designer and connect it to the network.

Variants of ventilation duct schemes

The simplest option is a straight pipe-channel leading from the vent to the place where the fan is installed, with an elbow-adapter for the fan. It is applicable only if there is no need to arrange ventilation in other rooms, such as a toilet.

Basically, it is just a replacement for a wall mount to a ceiling mount, without system upgrades.

It happens that the ventilation shaft in the apartment is located unsuccessfully: only in the bathroom, or near the door, and not in the opposite corner. In this case, a more complex duct may be required, into which two independent fans are installed - for a bathroom and a toilet.

When planning the ventilation duct, keep in mind that the toilet should be the last in a series of ventilated rooms, and the bathroom should be the penultimate. Otherwise, unpleasant odors and moisture from the bathroom can get into other rooms. If this is not possible, be sure to use check valves, and it is better to duplicate them: both in the fan housing and in the air duct.

Developing this scheme, you can bring a separate ventilation duct to any room with a suspended ceiling - just avoid laying the duct through living rooms unless absolutely necessary.

Ventilation pipes, laid in the attic, it is necessary to insulate. Also, in this case, duct fans are most often used, because their noise in the attic will not bother anyone.

Universal procedure

The first step is to think over and design everything, better on paper. Draw a plan of the housing and mark where the fans are to be installed and where there is an exit to the ventilation shaft. Keep in mind that the fan must be located at the opposite corner of a door or other source of fresh air, and must not hit the supporting structure of the false ceiling.

Then connect the fan with the vent channel along the most convenient and short path. Mark all elbows, tees, couplers, elbows, flat to round adapters, and attachment points.

Recalculate how much you need, measure the length of the pipes and buy everything you need. Don't forget about wires and switches for the fan.

When decorating the walls, provide holes in the places where the ventilation duct will cross the walls. Also, remove the necessary wiring from the junction box by placing it in a corrugated tube. Install a switch if necessary.

Assemble a ventilation duct for each room on the floor. Place it on the ceiling, mark the attachment points and attach the clips to the main ceiling.

Install the assembled channel in place and secure with fasteners. Connect parts from different rooms into a single system - as tightly as possible, without gaps and crevices. Make sure that the outlet for the fan is flush with the future covering. If the ceiling will be stretched, pre-install a special platform for attaching the fan.

Only after the ventilation duct is mounted, you can proceed to the installation of the false ceiling. In a slatted ceiling, plasterboard or plastic ceiling, you can cut a hole with a drill with a crown attachment. The canvas of the stretch ceiling is pre-strengthened with a special ring, and then cut with a clerical knife.

The fan case is inserted into the resulting hole until it stops, along the way, the connection cable is led out into a special hole. In the suspended ceiling, the fan housing is attached to the molly dowels, in the tension ceiling - to the silicone glue-sealant to the fixed socket of the channel.

After connecting the wires, install the decorative panel - and the installation of the fan is completed.

Connecting the fan to electricity

Depending on the model, the fan can have from 2 to 4 connection terminals.

If there are only two of them, then zero is brought to one, and the phase from the switch or the nearest light bulb to the other.

The third contact is available in models with a built-in timer.

They need constant power supply to the board, so the main phase wire is pulled directly from the junction box, connected to the wire from the shield. The switch is installed on the second phase wire, which is connected to the timer terminal.

Four contacts are rare, usually with a timer and a metal case. In this case, in addition to zero and two phases, it is necessary to connect the ground to the fan.

When connecting the simplest fan without a timer to a light bulb or light switch, keep in mind that it will work exactly as long as the lighting is on. Perhaps such a scheme is suitable for a toilet, but for a bathroom this time will most likely not be enough, and you will have to leave the light on longer than necessary. In addition, it can be uncomfortable to wash in a draft from a fan.

For a kitchen or a room, connecting a fan to the light is categorically not suitable, because you can cook in natural light, and it is more convenient to ventilate the room during the day. In the closet and dressing room, as a rule, the light burns very little, so it is better to use models with a timer there.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Summing up, we note that it is quite possible to organize even a complex and branched ventilation system in a suspended ceiling with your own hands. And so that you definitely don't have any questions, we offer several videos.

The simplest do-it-yourself ventilation duct in the bathroom ceiling:

Bathroom ceiling decoration with ventilation and insulation:

Arrangement of a quiet hood in the kitchen with a duct fan - the duct in such a scheme can be easily hidden not by furniture facades, but in the ceiling:

In order for the ventilation that you yourself design and install to work correctly, try not to save either time or money. Approach responsibly to the choice of not only the fan, but also the section, material and diameter of the channel. Impossible tasks do not exist, and with the utmost care, you can install the fan yourself in the ceiling as well as specialists.

Do you have ventilation in your home hidden behind suspended ceilings? What fans and how are they connected? Share your impressions, tips, corrections and additions to the article in the comments.