Repair of washing machines AEG (AEG) is required extremely rarely due to the high quality of the German assembly.
However, external factors have not been canceled: voltage drops, water supply problems, hard water, etc. Therefore, such good washing machines as AEG can break down.
Causes and signs of the main breakdowns of SM brand AEG
- Incorrect operation;
- Manufacturing defects;
- Force Majeure.
All these factors can cause a breakdown, as a result of which a heater or control module may burn out.
The most common failures of AEH CMs are:
- The water is in the drum, the washing machine does not wash.
- Water does not warm up to the required temperatures. The linen does not wash out because of cold water, or washing does not begin at all.
- Rotating the drum off the SM, you hear a rattle or a rattle.
- The drum does not receive water.
- Extra sounds are heard during operation.
- Knocks out the machine, RCD, plugs.
- Water constantly enters the drum.
Many of these failures are caused by the following faults:
- The heating element has failed.
- The temperature sensor is blown.
- The electronic control module (controller) has broken.
- The drain pump has deteriorated.
Self-diagnosis of AEG breakages
If the machine started to work abnormally, then you can try to find out on your own what's wrong. If your model has an electronic scoreboard, then an error code should appear on it: E11 (C1), E21 (C3, C4), E61 (C7), E71 (C8), E74, EC1, CF (T90).
What these alphanumeric combinations mean, we will consider below.
| Error code | Cause of occurrence |
| E11 (C1) | The tank does not receive water, which can be caused by a breakdown of the priming valve. |
| E21 (as well as C3 or C4 for some models) | The waste water is retained in the tank for a long time. This can be caused by a pump failure or, more rarely, an electronic module failure. |
| E61 (in some models - C7) | Water does not warm up to the designated t. For example, you set the wash to 50 degrees, but the water is still cold. Often means a failure of TEN. |
| E71 (C8) | Incorrect temperature resistance of the temperature sensor. The problem can be either in a temperature sensor or in a heating element (but this is less frequent). |
| E74 | The thermal sensor is shifted, the wiring has departed. |
| EC1 | The fill valve is blocked. There are two options: either the problem is in the valve itself, or the control module has failed. |
| CF (T90) | Always means the failure of the electronic controller (module, board). |
Important! The error E61 (C7) can be seen only by activating the self-diagnosis mode!
Models of washing machines AEG are very many, therefore the list of mistakes can be huge. We propose to consider the most frequent.
How to carry out self-diagnosis of AEG machine
Due to the fact that some codes appear only in diagnostic mode, we will explain how to do it:
- Turn the program selector to the "OFF" position (AUS), by this you cancel the previously started washing program. Disconnect the machine from the mains.
- Press and hold two buttons at once: "Start / Start" (Pause) and "Exit".
- Turn on the CM and turn the programmer wheel to the right to the right.
- Press the two buttons again together and hold until you see that the error code appears on the display.
To leave the test mode is simple: turn on, turn off and turn on the machine.
Repair of the AEG machine by our own hands: we fix the main breakdowns
Having determined what fault codes mean, you can start repair yourself or call a master. If you are a brave master with experience, boldly proceed to repair work: they will not cause you special difficulties. Well, if you do not have time to understand the intricacies of repair, better invite a specialist.
The heater in the AEG machine failed: what should I do?
This is relevant for detecting errors E61 (C7), E71 (C8)
Follow this action plan to remove the old TEN from the machine and replace it with a new one:
- Order / buy / find the original heater.
- Inspect the back cover of the stylalk casing. Look for a modest hatch for technological purposes. If it is there, you can be sure that the heating element is in front. If the hatch is not found, then the developers put the TEN on the back. If you are a little doubt, then dismantle the case from the back (it's easier to do it there).
- Having found access to the heater, armed with a multimeter (tester), check it. If the node is OK, the indicators should be 30 ohms.
- Having found out a malfunction, get rid of useless detail. To do this, find a large bolt on the center, remove it. After releasing the heating element from the contacts and sensors.
Carefully! When pulling out the temperature sensor, do not pull it sharply towards you. At the top there is a tongue that needs to be pressed to quickly remove the sensor from the hole.
- Shaky TEN then to the left, then to the right, gently pull it on yourself and remove it from the holder.
- Take a new heater, put it in place of the old one, tighten the bolt. In reverse order, attach all the contacts and sensors.
Replacement of the temperature sensor with your own hands
Actual for errors E71 (C8) and E74
In modern washers as a temperature sensor is a thermistor attached to the TEN. Therefore, by checking the Tester, at the same time, take the time for the thermistor. To replace it, too, do not need much effort and time - as written above, holding the sensor tongue, gently remove it and replace it with a new one.
Elimination of AEG drain pump failure
If there was an error E21 (C3, C4), indicating the breakdown of the pump (drain pump), you can remove and replace it with a new one without the help of a master, doing everything yourself. Getting to the pump is a little more complicated than before the heating element, so you should stock up on tools and patience.
To penetrate to the location of the drain pump, it is necessary to remove the facade wall SM. Follow these instructions:
- Remove the upper cover from the housing.
- Next, remove the front panel, behind which the manufacturer placed the drain filter (just discharge the remaining waste water) and unscrew the bolts holding the pump (pump).
- After taking out the container for the powder and rinse aid, unscrew the bolts on which the control panel is attached.
- Gently lift the panel, taking care not to touch the wiring.
- Remove the yoke from the cuff of the drum - it also needs to be disposed of.
- Unscrew bolts that hold the housing cover in front, removing it for a while.
- Remove the pump from the wiring and loosen the clamps.
- Take the pump, remove the cochlea and inspect the impeller - it can be broken or debris. Together with this, taking a tester, you can check the winding of the motor.
- After confirming the pump failure, install a new part corresponding to your AEG model. Connect the sensors and wires, collect the AGR in reverse order.
Repair of AEG control board
Repair or replacement will be necessary in case of errors CF (T90), EC1 or E21 (C3, C4).
Often the breakdown of the electronic module is accompanied by breakdowns of other systems and components, so the first difficulty that can be encountered during repair is the fault diagnosis.
The second problem is that it's not always clear if you need to change the control module, or you can fix it.
That's why if you need a firmware or a replacement board, it's better not to save money and refer to a master who will check the board with special equipment and make your verdict - repair or change.
Optional: what to do if the AEG car is flowing
Another common problem faced by owners of CM AEG brands is that their washing is leaking. Water and electricity are not the best friends, so the problem is acute and dangerous, it needs to be quickly addressed.
The culprits in this situation are the manhole cuff or the filler hose. Also, the branch pipes going to the drain pump could fail, or the oil seal might have worn off. You can replace the damaged parts with your own hands - in AEG machines the replacement of these elements is the same as in other brands.
Difficult, but possible: repair of old washing machines AEG
As a conclusion we will say that repair of breakages on different brands of washing machines AEG (AEG 60060 SL, AEG 60060 TL, AEG OKO Lavamat 1270, etc.) are almost the same, or rather, they have to be repaired according to the same algorithms.
If you need to replace the bearing on an AEG washing machine that has been in operation for more than a decade, this indicates wear of the parts, and other parts may need to be replaced. That is why it is not always possible to deal with the problem on your own: in a number of cases it is still necessary to entrust your technique to a professional.
This video clearly shows what we did not describe in detail - the replacement of bearings in washing machines, including AEG models. It is better to see once to understand the algorithm.
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