Planting pepper on seedlings - seed preparation, soil, picking, care

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Who does not want to grow such a delicious culture from gardeners? Planting pepper on seedlings is an important step on the way to harvest. If gardeners of the XX century believed that it is a culture of warm climate, that in the northern conditions it is easy it is impossible to grow it, now a rare garden plot does without this culture, in whatever region it is not was. A good crop is promoted by the correct growing of pepper seedlings, its planting. This culture grows well in the suburbs, non-black earth, Siberia, of course, in our Kuban. So, the beginning of everything is the seeds.

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Content:
  • Seed preparation
  • Soil preparation for seedlings
  • Planting pepper on seedlings
  • Pike seedling pepper
  • Growing pepper seedlings - fertilizing and watering
  • Pest of pepper
  • Plant formation
  • Hardening of pepper seedlings

Stages of growing pepper seedlings - preparation of seeds, soil, planting, grooming, picking, feeding, watering, hardening before planting in the ground or a greenhouse. There are sweet and hot peppers, there are short and tall varieties. Now, thanks to the efforts of selection scientists, various varieties, hybrids, suitable for winter growing, planting in spring film greenhouses or open ground, are derived.

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Pepper, in my opinion, is not difficult to grow. It is not susceptible to such complex diseases as, for example, late blight, which is difficult to combat, so it can be grown, both in the open ground and film greenhouses. Peppers usually work out in any year, whatever it is - hot, rainy or cold - sometimes better, sometimes worse, but it never happens that they are not at all.

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Seed preparation

Where should we start to grow good seedlings? You need to start with seeds.

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Germination seeds of pepper retain only 2-3 years. It's hard enough to germinate seeds. If the seeds of tomatoes can be germinated, or can not - they are already beautifully emerging, then the seeds of peppers before planting it is desirable to germinate.

What do I need to do? You can use a small container, for example, a saucer. Put on the bottom a small layer of cotton wool, or gauze, or filter paper, or any fabric. Top the seeds.

You can pour them simply with water, or you can use a solution of wood ash (1 tablespoon per 1 liter of water). Of course, water will need much less than a liter - just gauze, cotton wool, cloth or paper should be well moistened. The water layer should be minimal. Seeds should not float.

Why do I mention ash? Ash is potassium. And this element is mandatory when growing, planting pepper. With its shortage, the future ovaries will crumble, they will be few, the leaves will be pale, thin. In short, food for plants will be missed.

After soaking the saucer should be put in a warm place. The temperature for germination of pepper seeds should be 25-30 ° C. To ensure the necessary microclimate, a saucer can be covered with a food film, while ensuring sufficient air space to allow the seeds to breathe. Seeds germinate for a long time - usually 10-14 days. But some seeds, having a good germination energy, can germinate in 5 days. Therefore, be patient.

After the seeds are swollen, and some of them have already sprouted, you can proceed to planting.

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Soil preparation for seedlings

Now let's talk about what kind of soil should be for growing seedlings. Pepper is very fond of organic fertilizers. Therefore, when preparing the soil for it, try to use a very good compost. You can add a little bit of the manure. Of fertilizer, the soil must contain dolomite flour (100-150 g per bucket of soil), because the pepper does not tolerate acid soil at all. You can add a complex fertilizer, for example, Kemir Universal, you can nitroammophos at the rate of 50-70 g per bucket of soil. Do not forget, after all these additives, carefully mix everything, diligently rubbing all the lumps. You will get, in fact, "living land which will give power to your plants.

I advise you to sow the seeds first in small containers, followed by picking them into larger pots.

In the first tanks the depth of the soil should be at least 5-7 cm. The soil before planting is well spilled hot solution of potassium permanganate in an intensely pink color. Then make grooves depth, cm with a distance between them 3-4 cm. After this, proceed to landing. Seeds we try to lay out evenly, 1 cm apart. If conditions and capacity permit, they can be decomposed less often. It is desirable to sow seeds of one variety in each container, write a name so that it will not be confused later.

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Planting pepper on seedlings

After unfolding the seeds, we begin to seal them. You can use the same moist soil, but you can mix a part of the previously prepared soil with sand (:) and sprinkle the seeds on top, so that the soil is easy on top - nothing will stop them from germinating.

The container with seeded seeds is also placed in a very warm place (25-28 ° C). I usually cover a dish with seeded food film - I create a pleasant microclimate for them. Before emergence, the capacity can be put on the heating battery. Only put not on a bare battery, but on a plank, so that there is no direct contact with hot metal.

As soon as the first shoots appeared, even if not all, you need to remove the film and put the container in a bright place. At me it is usually a window sill. After all, pepper is a very light-loving plant. Seedlings do not stretch like tomatoes. If you have southern windows, you can not even give them additional lighting. But, if the conditions are different or the weather is cloudy, additional lighting is required. Light seedlings should receive at least 12 hours a day. Pepper is a plant of short day. To start the lightening should be in the morning, for example, it will be 9 am, and turn off after 21.00, in the evening, but not later. Comfortable temperature for them is 20-25 ° С in the afternoon and 18-20 ° С - at night.

If you sowed the seeds in a well-prepared soil, then at first no additional dressing is required. And if the soil is purchased, you are not sure whether it is qualitative, then I advise in the presence of 1-2 present leaflets to make such feeding: 1) urea - 1 g, superphosphate double - 4 g, potassium sulfate -1 g per 1 liter of water; or 2) Crystalline (solution) _ - 4 g, also per 1 liter water.

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Pike seedling pepper

As soon as the seedlings have 3-4-th real leaves, you can start a pike. Capacities for this can be very different - peat-humus pots, large plastic cups or special seedling pots. Most importantly - the volume of them should be at least 500 ml.

We fill the tanks for picking very moist soil, but not up to the top, but leave about 3-4 cm free. We make a groove in the center, put a seedling inside. Gently spread the roots, sprinkled with the soil to about the middle of the cotyledonous knee. But if the plant still stretched, then to the cotyledonous leaves.

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Now we install the pots on the window. As the plants grow, the pots should be placed less frequently so that they do not shade each other. The key to ensuring that your pepper seedling is healthy, feels good, is the appearance: young leaves on the top are always lighter than the old, having a dark green appearance. This indicates that your plants feel fine after planting.

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The air regime for seedlings is very important. Pepper does not like compacting the soil, so try to always loosen the top layer of the pot.

Seedlings of pepper are very often affected by such a disease as the "black leg". Therefore, try, first, put it in a warm, not cold ground, water only with warm water. And, secondly, after picking around the stalk, sprinkle the calcined sand with a small layer, about, see. The sand passes moisture well through itself, it goes deeper to the roots, and the near-trunk circle remains dry. These measures will protect your seedlings from the "black leg".

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Growing pepper seedlings - fertilizing and watering

What are the characteristics of care for pepper seedlings? She is very fond of organic fertilizers. If you have such an opportunity, use it. You can feed the seedlings every 10 days with complex fertilizer, for example, Kemira Universal.

What other fertilizing can I do? Salted seedlings are very fond of foliar top dressing. How is this best done? A good fertilizer for this is Kemir Kombi. This fertilizer has the appearance of a pink powder, which is highly soluble in water. Take a plastic bottle, for example, with a volume of 1 liter with a conventional household spray. To such a volume of water, enough powder on the tip of a teaspoon (, g). This fertilizer contains 17 microelements, as well as phosphorus and potassium. Water for spraying should be warm - 20-25 ° С. Foliar top dressing is best done early in the morning, until the sun's rays illuminate the plants. Try to moisten the spray when wetting the leaves, not only from above, but from below.

Extra foliar top dressing should be alternated with irrigation with nutrient solutions with potassium and calcium nitrate - every 10 days (calcium nitrate - 1 g, potassium nitrate - 1 g per 1 liter of water).

If you notice that the leaves have acquired a slightly yellowish color, then they lack nitrogen. Therefore, with top-dressing, use urea (per 1 liter of water 2-3 g).

Try not to overdry or over-moisten the soil. Sprinkle the seedlings with warm, standing water.

Uneven, rare watering leads to a weakening of the seedlings, which begin to drop leaves from lack of moisture. The trunk begins to ligne before the time, the plant forms only one trunk, it looks oppressed, flowering, the formation of fruit is delayed, yield decreases.

On the contrary, waterlogging contributes to excessive compaction of the soil, the root system of pepper seedling stops working, feeding the plant. Remember, above I said that a healthy plant has dark green leaves on the lower and middle tiers, and on the top - light green? And when waterlogged, the leaves of the whole plant get a dark green color. This suggests that the plant is bad - something wrong you did when planting or leaving.

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Pest of pepper

But the main trouble for those who grow pepper seedlings are pests. The most famous of them is aphids. If you have other houseplants at home, then you will not be able to grow pepper without aphids. What are the ways to control aphids? I will not advise you on the chemical means of struggle, because this, I believe, is completely unacceptable at home.

Let's consider the people's means of struggle.

The first means: for 1 liter of water take 25 g of ash or the same amount of tobacco dust. The solution to insist 3-4 days. Strain. Add 3-4 g of liquid soap. Sprinkle pepper seedlings with a sprayer.

The second tool will help fight pests, not only at home, but in the garden plot too. Take 250 g of fresh needles. Grind it. Insist in 1 liter of water a week, preferably in the dark. Then take 30-50 g of infusion, dilute it with one liter of water. A solution for processing your plants from aphids is ready.

The third way. Take the peel from one orange, insist it in one liter of water in a dark place one week. Strain, add 3-4 g of liquid soap. This solution is also good for treating seedlings or pepper plants from aphids.

But I warn you which way you would not choose, one treatment is not enough. It is necessary to make 2-3 treatments.

The age of pepper seedlings before planting greenhouses in the soil or open soil is 60-70 days. It can be planted even with flowering or with buds.

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Plant formation

And now let's talk about the formation of sweet pepper. When the seedlings reach the age of 75-80 days from the moment of shoots, one can begin to form shrubs.

Very often the fruits of pepper are formed by an irregular, ugly shape. This occurs at an elevated temperature. If the pepper grows in the greenhouse - often ventilate it. And if this is an open ground, then look, perhaps, the bushes you have too thickened, have a few empty shoots that prevent blowing, airing the bushes.

Up to the 10th leaf pepper grows in one stem. And then the stem splits. The next knee of each of these branches also forms two stems. That is, above 11-12 leaves there are 4 skeletal branches. If you look closely, you will see that in addition to these skeletal branches there are even smaller branches that can grow inside the plant or outward. Usually it is an empty process, on which fruit is never formed, but they will shade, thicken the middle of the bush, and then take away the nutrients from the fruit. They must be ruthlessly removed. Even if these shoots have buds or flowers, but they go inside the plant, break them. The sense of them will not be.

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Hardening of pepper seedlings

Before planting, days 10-15 before, seedlings should be hardened. It is necessary to start hardening from a temperature of 14-15 ° C, gradually lower it, to about 12 ° C - but not lower.

After planting pepper seedlings on a permanent place, when it will take root, periodically inspect the plants, remove the lowest leaves - two or three leaves in 2-3 days.

In order for the seedlings to take root better when transplanting, especially if it is a plant with flowers and buds, it is better to make the following root top dressing. One week after planting, you need to take 50-80 g of azofoska for 10 liters of water + 2 capsules of liquid fertilizer Uniflor-growth, containing 18 microelements, very necessary for plant growth. With this solution pour the peppers under the root. 2-3 plants - one liter of solution.

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I must say that planting peppers on seedlings, growing it - a creative process. Do this only when you want, when you have a good mood. And you will definitely have a good harvest.

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