Often, the blind area around the house begins to collapse within one or two seasons after its filling. And the reason for this is a violation of technology during construction. Cracks appear in the blind area, through which water falls under the house, grass and seeds of weed trees grow in them. In this case, you can not postpone the repair of the blind area for a long time.

Work technology
You can produce it on your own, but many are interested in the question of how to do this without dismantling the old blind area. Experts say this is possible. You must act as follows:
- First, the falling off parts of the old blind area are removed. At the same time, it is not necessary to break everything, only that which is swept away by a hard broom and removed by hands is removed. Individual fragments can be slipped off. Narrow cracks expand with a spatula.
- Further, the blind area is primed with a primer with deep penetration with a brush. The task of this operation is to slightly strengthen the coating, also in cracks. Do not apply too much primer, but you do not need to feel sorry for it.
- Leveling screed is performed with a special repair mixture or ordinary plastic mortar. First of all, cracks are smeared. It is better to add 10% diluted PVA glue to the repair mixture.
- A layer of waterproofing from roofing material or a plastic film is laid on top. Be sure to make a lap on the base from 6 to 8 cm.
- A reinforcing wire mesh with a 5 cm mesh is placed on top of the waterproofing.
- Then a concrete layer of 6-8 cm is poured. The slope should be about 3 cm from the house.
- Concrete should be tough. When laying, they smooth it and iron. The next day, the concrete is polished with a polyurethane or wooden grater.
- If the house is small, then transverse seams can not be done. Usually they are used in areas with a coating of more than 15 meters and are used to compensate for deformation during shrinkage and temperature fluctuations.
- If a seam is needed, then it is done in 6-8 meters increments from a board treated with creosote or other antiseptic. The seams are also made of rigid foam, laying a strip of 1 cm throughout the depth of the blind area. Excess can be cut off after setting concrete.
- The outer edge of the blind area can be made even by applying formwork boards. Then the boards are removed, and the soil is flush with the blind area. With a concrete layer of less than 5 cm, the so-called “tooth” can be made on the edge, that is, a thickening of up to 10 cm. As an option, a concrete curb or ceramic brick is installed on the edge. The formwork board is then not needed.

Solution preparation
The solution itself for filling the blind area is prepared as follows:
- Cement (grade 500 or 400) - 1 part;
- Sand - 2.6 parts;
- Crushed stone - 4.5 parts;
- Water - 125 liters per cubic meter of the finished solution;
- Additives and plasticizers.
It is better to prepare the mixture in a concrete mixer and use it for two hours. It is better to cover the poured concrete with a damp cloth or burlap so that the water from the solution does not evaporate so quickly. This will help prevent cracking. In extreme heat, it is recommended to pour concrete from the hose in the morning and evening for about 2-3 days. On the day of pouring, watering is not necessary.

If the blind area was repaired correctly and in compliance with all requirements, then the new coating should last longer.
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