The drum is the central element of any washing machine. Washing is not possible if the drum rotates badly or does not spin at all. In this case it is important to correctly determine the cause of the failure and try to eliminate it yourself, to save on repairs, and return the washing machine to its former capacity.
Next, we will consider the reasons why the drum of the washing machine does not rotate well, and we will suggest methods for solving this problem.
Why the drum rotates weakly and unevenly
The first thing that you should worry about when there is trouble with the drum is the cause of the failure. Based on the cause of the breakdown, the methods of repair are determined. Most often, difficulties with rotating the drum arise for the following reasons:
- Overload. In many modern models equipped with sensors, washing does not start if too many things are loaded. If you suspect that you downloaded more than it should, cancel the program, open the hatch and ship excess lingerie.
- Wear of drive belt. In this case, the drum will rotate if you twist it with your hands, but the machine itself can not do this. Optionally, the cause of the breakage in the wear of the belt, he could and simply jump off the seat.
- Wear of electric motor brushes. In cars with a collector motor, the weakest place of the motor is its brushes. If the engine has not received the proper maintenance for all the years of using the machine, it is likely that the brushes need replacing. Usually after the replacement of brushes the working capacity of the AGR is fully restored.
- Failed programmer(electronic unit). This breakdown can be attributed to the most difficult, since the firmware or replacement module can be quite expensive.
- Malfunction of the electric motor. If the drum rotates unevenly or does not rotate at all, the fault may be the motor. Closing or breaking is the most likely cause of failure for this case. As a rule, users trust such a complicated repair.
How to find out yourself what caused the breakdown
The primary diagnosis of a fault is within the power of any user and it consists in such procedures:
- Check the maximum permissible weight of the items in the user's manual.
- Check if the hatch is locked. If the drum does not rotate when the hatch is locked, the drain filter may be clogged.
- Turn the drum by hand. If the drum rotates in manual mode, but it is dead when auto wash, the problem of tacho generator, wiring or control module is possible.
- Check the presence of foreign bodies in the cavity between the drum and the tank. If there is empty, then the breakdown of the heating element is not excluded. If the heater burns out, the drum may not rotate, since the machine blocks washing in general.
- Inspect the drive belt. He could jump off or tear, then it must be corrected or replaced with a new one.
- Disassemble the machine and see if the bearings have run out. If your AGR is already "aged and then no bearings are produced, then it's time to change these details.
What to do when the drum kicks
For repair you need not so much: user manual, self-diagnosis with finding out the causes of the breakdown, patience and a few tools that can be found in the case of any home master.
Replace brushes
If the reason for wear of the motor brushes, because of which the drum rotates or brakes, these elements must be replaced. Repair consists in dismantling the body of the AGR, removing the motor and installing brushes. The whole process is described in detail in the article "How to replace engine brushes" - there you will find step by step instructions with photos and videos.
For owners of Bosch washing machines, we have a separate instruction "How to replace brushes on a Bosch washing machine".
Replace TEN
If the drum is stuck and washing does not begin at all - the problem is in the heater: you need to get and replace the heater. He could just burn out, close up and even explode.
In each brand, the heater is extracted in its own way: front or rear. For example, in Bosch, Siemens and AEG, the heater is replaced exclusively from the front panel. And in other popular models (Whirlpool, Ardo, Zanussi), in order to replace the heater, it is enough to unscrew the back panel.
Replacing this part does not require special repair skills, and your main task is to purchase an original analogue, which corresponds to your brand and model of styalka. Details about checking and replacing this item you will learn from the articles: "How to check the heater" and "How to replace the heater".
Also we have separate instructions for the replacement for owners of washing machines Indesit, Samsung, Bosch and LG.
Remove foreign object
If you notice that the drum rotates heavily or jerks, sometimes it jams and crocks, and also it accompanied by a knocking from the hull, it is possible that the problem in the object stuck between the walls of the tank and a drum.
To check this, in most models, just unscrew the rear wall and remove the heater (at the same time you can check it or clean it from the scale). If you see the object is difficult, light the flashlight in the hole in which was the heater.
On a note! Usually the reason for the jamming of the drum is the bones from the bra. Get a special cover for washing such clothes.
Check the control module
If the drum rotates slowly while washing, the control module may not be damaged. In this case, you need firmware or replacement of the electronic unit.
If you do not feel yourself an expert in this industry, entrust the repair to a good master. If you are confident in your abilities, look for instructions in the article "Repairing the control board of a washing machine with your own hands."
How to find and eliminate the breakdown of a vertical typewriter
If the drum of the vertical washing machine is jammed, the cause of this trouble may be opened doors in the tank. If the door latch does not open at the top, but at the bottom of the tank, the drum jams and it stops rotating. In this case, you can try to rotate the drum with a self-made hook made of wire, or disassemble the body of the stylalk by removing the side or bottom panel.
Repair without disassembly:
- Find a strong steel wire of this diameter so that it passes through the holes of the drum.
- Bend the pliers, see the wire from the end, making a small hook.
- Insert the hook into the hole.
- With one hand, use a self-made hook, the other - illuminate yourself with a flashlight. The idea is that you need to close the sash so that you can crank the drum.
Important! There are models with very narrow apertures, and no wire there will crawl through. If the AGR is no longer warranted, simply expand the hole to the diameter of the wire.
If nothing happens, then the best way to solve the problem will be to disassemble:
- Examine the drum and determine where the door is now. If it is from below, then it is easier to get to it from the bottom.
- De-energize the device and disconnect the SM from the water supply and sewerage.
- Put the stiralk on its side.
- Remove the pallet, taking care not to tear off the wires.
- Find a small counterweight and unscrew it (it is most convenient to do this with a socket wrench).
- Under the counterweight, you will find a small hole - it is often enough to push your hand and close the opening flap.
Some masters practice disassembly on the side. To do this, unscrew the side wall, get the heater, and through the hole in which it was, you can close the door to turn the drum.
Important! If the doors have managed to bend, closing their doors will be impossible. In this case, there are two outputs: call the master or disassemble the tank, remove the drum and align the flaps.
Now you know what to do if the drum rotates weakly in the car, hardly twists, or it jams in general. Having determined the reason, in most cases you will be able to eliminate the damage yourself, without referring to the master.
