Replacing fittings in the toilet cistern: device and main components, types of faults

Wrong Many have come across a picture when there is water on the floor in the toilet. And this is still good if the puddle is shallow. Or, after much thought in the toilet, the cistern refuses to drain the water. There are other problems, but the reason is the same for all - the drain system is faulty.

It is very good if the repair costs a simple replacement of the gasket or the screw just needs to be tightened tighter. And if everything is not so simple and you need to change the entire system? Fearfully? But don't panic.

If you arm yourself with knowledge about the design of the drain system, understand a little about repairs, then you can cope with troubleshooting yourself, without involving outsiders and free help. But where do you start?

Device and main units

The drain fittings of modern models are quite compact and can be repaired well. Even if we take into account that models from different manufacturers differ in the layout of parts, common factors can be distinguished:

1. Most of the drain fittings can be easily disassembled.
2. All devices work on the same principle.

The drain fittings include two assemblies: an inlet valve and a drain valve. The units responsible for the water inlet can have a top or bottom connection. The difference is not so significant - only the place of installation of the float and the scheme of the locking force change. From the old models with a pear-shaped float, which had a tendency to depressurize, the new ones differ in that a double glass is installed on them.

Drain valve - looks like a column installed vertically in the center of the tank. The lower part is equipped with an annular seat that is overlapped by a collar. The force to shut off the water occurs due to the own weight of the stem, as well as the mass of water. The valve is opened by raising the stem, which is connected to the release button.

Types of malfunctions

All faults can be divided into two groups:

1. Intake valve defective.
2. Drain part problems.

Intake valve malfunction

The malfunction of this element is directly related to a malfunction in the locking mechanism. At the same time, after filling the tank, water continues to accumulate, and upon reaching the level, it is discharged through the overflow system.

To eliminate the malfunction, it is necessary to replace the intake assembly or install a new cuff or closing plug.

Attention! Replacement is often required for both parts at once.

Before proceeding with the replacement, you need to do the following:

• shut off the water supply, and then dismantle the inlet valve - before that, you will need to remove the drain button and remove the lid from the tank;
• then you need to unscrew the plastic nut that secures the valve;
• to gain access to the closing plug, you need to unfasten the actuator from the float, before unhooking the float with the rocker;
• after that, you can remove the rocker, the opposite end of which is fixed on a plastic cup with a rubber stopper.

After inspecting the plug, you should replace it or try to change the working side and reinstall it.

Drain unit problems

It is possible to restore the reliable locking of the drain hole in various ways. One of them is that you need to remove the membrane and put it on the other side.

Attention! It is necessary to try to restore elasticity to the membrane. To do this, the rubber must be placed in hot water for a while.

If all that has been done has not brought results, then, most likely, the leak is due to insufficient pressure. The clamping force can be changed by increasing the stroke length. Usually it is limited by an emphasis in the lateral ribs. To accomplish this, you need to do the following:

1. The movable part of the drain column is turned counterclockwise to the floor.
2. The structure is removed from the clips.
3. The stops on the ribs need to be sharpened by shortening them by a couple of millimeters.

To increase the downforce, you can give more weight to the piston. To do this, several heavy nuts should be fastened to it.

If all the efforts made do not help, all that remains is to change the fittings.

Repair of fittings in the cistern

If your toilet is leaking, you should pay attention to the following:

• whether the drain tank is tightly fixed;
• whether the seal is worn or damaged.

The first step is to tighten the bolts that secure the toilet tank. Do not overtighten them, as the toilet itself and the waste tank can be damaged. If the leak persists, remove the drain tank and replace the seal on the drain channel. Replace the washers that are on the tank. Treat all joints with silicone sealant.

Drain tanks with a bottom water supply are more difficult to repair. In them, leakage can also form from wear of the seal at the point of entry of water. In this case, the seal should be replaced with a new one and fixed with a sealant.

Repairing the valve on the drain tank can also solve the problem. The purpose of the valve is to provide dosing and movement of water in the toilet. The basic principle of the toilet bowl is as follows: when water enters, the float rises to a predetermined level, after which the water stops flowing. After draining, the float descends and water begins to accumulate again.

Replacing the fittings of the toilet bowl

Most of the problems with the toilet can be easily solved by replacing the old fittings with new ones. There is nothing difficult in this. If you do everything carefully and correctly, then you can cope on your own and not spend money on calling the master.

Dismantling the old structure

If you break down the dismantling of reinforcement into stages, then it will look like this.

The water supply to the tank is cut off. The water supply hose is disconnected.

After the water supply tap is closed, you need to empty the tank and dry it.

Attention! It so happens that, due to haste, they forget to remove the water from the tank. When the fastening screws are unscrewed, a "deluge" occurs. A very unpleasant situation not only for the owner, but also for the neighbors.

The cistern is detached from the drain pipe (if it is an old model) or directly from the toilet in new types of devices. For the first case, you need to unscrew the nut that is on the pipe.

The second case involves unscrewing the two nuts located under the toilet seat. When working with an old model device, dismantling can be difficult because the mount is covered with rust and cannot be unscrewed. If such a nuisance occurs, then the nuts can simply be cut off.

The drain tank is removable. It must be laid on a flat and stable surface of the required width. Then the float and the water pipe with the valve are removed. The drain system is dismantled.

After the old fittings have been removed, the tank should be rinsed and dried, and also checked for chips and cracks.

Installation of new fittings

Old-style models have large holes for fittings. This does not matter much if the old part is replaced with a new one of the same type. But it often happens that new parts for old toilet bowls are no longer on sale. We'll have to install modern fittings. This should be given special attention.

1. In devices of the old modification, we fix a bracket with a stem and a pear on the bottom of the tank with a metal fastener. In devices of the new model, the drain system is installed in the center of the tank and is fixed with a plastic nut. You should be especially careful when working. Handle the plastic mount carefully. Excessive force during locking can damage the fastener.
2. We put the water supply pipe. To it in old models we fix the float on the spoke. In products of a new type, the branch pipe can be equipped with a water level control system. In other words, both the float and the branch pipe are made in the form of a single structure. We put everything together.
3. Now the tank, along with the drain system, must be placed on the toilet.
4. Older models have an elongated rubber pad that acts as a shock absorber. It is installed between the toilet and the tank. The gasket covers the drain hole and the overflow hole. If modern fittings have to be installed on the old device, then the hole for the overflow pipe must be closed. In modern toilet bowls, the shock-absorbing gasket has an annular shape.
5. A drain tank is installed on top of the gasket. It needs to be fixed to the toilet with fixing bolts.

Installation is complete.