Installing a wall-hung toilet with do-it-yourself installation: the pros and cons of installing a wall-hung toilet with installation

Increasingly, in modern homes, instead of the usual compact models of toilet bowls, you can see a bowl just hanging on the wall. At the same time, the tank itself is somewhere behind the partition, and all communications are hidden there. What to say? Unusually, installation is much more difficult, because in addition you will have to mount the partition, as well as decorate it with something, but with this approach, even a small room visually becomes more spacious.

Features of the hanging toilet

The common thing that all toilet bowls have in common is a water tank equipped with a flush button. It is installed in a steel frame. There are also holes for attaching the toilet to the enclosing surface, of course, studs for mounting the bowl, a knee for flushing and draining. All these structures are divided according to the type of installation:

1. Block system. The structure is intended for hanging, it is fixed on the load-bearing wall. There is no support in this design. It can be installed in a niche, or it can be attached to the wall. If you attach to the wall, then do not forget that you need to make brickwork from floor level to the block. This will prevent the sheathing from being pushed through at the bottom of the box.
2. Frame system. This structure is placed near a load-bearing wall or next to internal partitions. All the load goes to the supports that are located on the floor. For fixing, the structure is attached to the wall.
3. Corner system. One of the varieties of frame systems. It is installed in the corner of the room. The load falls on the legs. The back side, the whole structure is fixed to the wall.

Pros and cons of installing a wall-hung toilet with installation

Built-in plumbing is not as surprising as it was a few years ago. Many people managed to learn from their own experience both positive qualities, as well as negative ones. Of the obvious advantages:

• the dimensions are quite compact - visually the room expands;
• it is convenient to keep it clean, since all parts are easily accessible;
• the noise of the draining water is not audible, since the walls allow you to create sound insulation;
• water is economically consumed, since a separate discharge is involved;
• such a design is durable and reliable;
• does not interfere with laying tiles or underfloor heating.

Of the obvious disadvantages:

•  there is no access to communication systems, because they are hidden by a partition;
• although the system has increased reliability, in the event of an unforeseen situation, it is necessary to dismantle the ceiling, and this entails additional costs;
• although the assembled system saves space, at the assembly stage it is necessary to expand the space to secure the frame;
• the installation of a conventional toilet does not require great strength from the wall, but block structures need strong walls.

DIY hanging toilet installation

Any plumbing installation should start from the place where it will be installed. You should pay close attention to some of the characteristics of the room. Naturally, these are the parameters of the room. It should be installed where the structure not will get in the way. Corner installation is not a bad solution, as it allows you to gain more space in a small space.

The second thing you should pay attention to is how close the communications are. If you need to build up pipes, therefore, you will have to allocate more space for them. In addition, do not forget about the required slope - for each meter of length one and a half or three centimeters. If the pipes are long, then you will have to hang the device high enough. All this must be taken into account so that in the future it will be easier to create points of drainage and collection of water for other equipment.

All installation installation steps can be divided into several stages:

• choice of place for installation;
• installation and fixing of the structure;
• connection to communications;
• testing work.

Preparing for installation

At the preparatory stage, it is necessary to put the workplace in order and stock up on all the necessary tools and accessories.

You will need a hammer drill to punch a hole in a brick or concrete wall. Building level to clearly position the product vertically and horizontally.

In addition, you will need:

• spanners;
• hammer;
• drills of different diameters with carbide tips;
• pliers, screwdrivers.

In addition, you should have a pencil or marker and a tape measure on hand. When everything you need is at hand, the work will go faster and your nerves will be more whole.

The markup consists of the following steps:

• an axis line is drawn on the wall, which will mean the center of the structure;
• the distance from the wall to the structure is measured - it should not be less than fifteen millimeters, more is possible;
• marks are applied under the tank;
• marks are made on the floor and wall for fastening the structure.

At this stage, you need to be extremely careful and accurate to every detail - this will greatly facilitate further work.

Installation

For the installation of the structure, not only the included elements are used, but also purchased independently. All of them must have a sufficient margin of safety, since they will have a significant load:

1. In the places where the marks are made, holes are made using a punch for installing expansion dowels. Absolutely all models are mounted vertically and horizontally.
2. The body is fixed with bolts and nuts.

The entire structure is given the required position relative to the vertical and horizontal. You also need to focus on fasteners. When exposing the product, use a level.

Horizontally, the structure is regulated by the frame supports, which can be fixed at the desired height.

In the vertical plane, the structure is adjusted with an anchor, after which it is fixed with a lock nut.

Attention! When editing, you need to do everything exactly. And most importantly, to fix it with high quality. The work of plumbing depends on the reliability of the structure as a whole. It's not very pleasant to sit and feel how everything sways under you.

Connecting the device

At the final stage, it is necessary to carry out water and sewerage connections.

The water supply is usually from the side or from the top. The main thing is not to use flexible hoses, as they are short-lived and wear out quickly. Their replacement will be further complicated by the need to dismantle the partition. The best solution would be to use polymer pipes.

All pipe fittings should be prepared in advance. We insert the outlet outlet of the toilet at an angle of 90 degrees into the sewer pipe and fix it on the frame with a clamp.

We insert the pins and already connect the toilet bowl to them. There are models that are fixed not only on the frame, but also on the wall.

Checking the design. We hide the internal elements behind the bezel. It is usually made of plasterboard, which is then glued with tiles or plaster.

Drywall is also convenient because holes are easily made in it to connect the structure with the bowl and buttons.

The toilet is connected to the pipes of communications by means of pipes. Their length is usually with a margin. Then they can be cut, considering how thick the false panel will be.

The toilet is fixed to the main structure. To prevent damage to the toilet when tightening the nuts, you must use the plastic washers that come with the kit.

It remains to install the drain button on the tank.