For domestic use, do you use a submersible electric pump Kid, but does he, like any other equipment, require intervention over time? Although its design is simple and fairly reliable, but without repair experience it is difficult to find a breakdown without using the services of a master.
Agree, it would be nice to fix it yourself to save on leaving the service organization employee.
We will show you how to repair the pump with your own hands, without the help of experts. The article presents the main types of faults and ways to detect them. The selected device diagrams and assembly components of the unit, which simplifies independent work.
For ease of perception of information, we offer a phased process of correcting breakdowns, equipped with a video. In fact, it is not difficult - it is enough to have a repair kit, which is necessarily included in the delivery of the pump.
The content of the article:
- Pump modifications and characteristic differences
- Device and principle of operation of the unit
The main types of faults and their causes
- Type # 1 - electrical failure
- Type # 2 - Mechanical Part Damage
Algorithm of search and elimination of malfunctions
- Stage # 1 - Attentive External Examination
- Stage # 2 - Inside Look
- Stage # 3 - electrical troubleshooting
- Stage # 4 - Correction of Mechanical Violations
- Conclusions and useful video on the topic
Pump modifications and characteristic differences
Vibrating submersible pumps invented a long time ago. Back in 1891, a Russian engineer V. G. Shukhov used the principle of vibration for the pump. By the way, approximately such a system is involved in a gasoline pump.
Later Argentine T. Bellock finalized the scheme - it is used without any changes today.
Vibrating submersible pumps there are a great many. But they all have about the same device and the principle of their repair is the same.
The first for domestic use such devices released Italians. In the USSR, the designers of the Moscow factory Dynamo under the guidance of M. undertook their development in the late 1960s. E. Breytora. And since 1971, the household vibration pump began to be produced at the enterprises of the USSR - the hobby of unification affected.
The approximate composition of the repair kit for the pump Kid and similar modifications
The pumps were produced in Yerevan, Livny, Moscow, Bavleny and many more enterprises. One can name only the most famous brands: "Kid", "Neptune", "Strunok", "Sega", "Streamlet", "Harvest", "Bosna", "Chestnut".
All of them, in fact, differed in the names and shape of the body. And that is not always. This also includes Italian and Chinese designs. For example, Dzhereltse.
Pump "Strunok" does not always distinguish from the "Kid" even a specialist - only for labeling
All these are variations of the same scheme. Sometimes the names changed, but the essence remained the same. For example, the now-famous “Kid - M” was a bit earlier “Beggar” and "Brook". therefore breakdowns “streamlet” and the methods of their elimination are very similar to the closest competitor - “The Kid”.
If we ignore the confusion with different names, then all variations are briefly reduced to three or four types of submersible pumps:
- "Kid" - model of submersible vibration electric pump with bottom water intake. The most powerful modification of all, but poorly suited for bottom work - can capture dirt or mud from the bottom and fail.
- "Kid - M" option in the upper water intake. Slightly weaker, but does not take the dirt from the bottom. Rarely fails due to overheating - even if the water level drops and the fence ends, the hull is still cooled - it remains immersed.
- "Kid - K" - model with the lower water intake, but is equipped with a thermal relay and a three-core wire with grounding. The presence of a thermal switch has a positive effect on service life and reliability, but increases its cost. Previously, this modification was exclusively for export.
- "Baby - 3" - compact model with a diameter of 80 mm for narrow wells.
In any case, vibration pumps are valued for their compactness, low cost and simplicity. In addition, they endure enough water hammerthat occur when the water line is blocked, for example. Although here you should not get involved - such a frequent practice still disables the pump.
Pumps of even one model may differ slightly: polishing or powder coating of the case, for example. But the details they have, as a rule, interchangeable
Device and principle of operation of the unit
The principle of operation is simple. The mechanism of water intake and rise using a piston and valve has been known since ancient times by Heron of Alexandria. The difference is that the scheme is processed under the electric motor.
Electric alternating current changes its direction several times per second. In Russia, the standard adopted 50 Hz. This means that in a second the current changes polarity 50 times.
Accordingly, an iron core placed in a magnetic field created by a current with such a frequency will vibrate with a frequency of reversal of polarity. If a piston with a valve is added to such a core, a pump will appear.
These are all variations of the same work flow. There is not much difference in the principles of their repair.
The pump casing consists of two halves. In one of them there is an electric coil creating an electromagnetic field, and in the other there is all the mechanics with a steel core.
The coil has a U-shaped core. Assembled, this part is called a yoke. It is pressed into the casing and is poured for sealing and insulation with a compound - plasticized bakelite resin mixed with silica sand for reasons of better thermal conductivity.
In the other half of the body is a hydraulic chamber. It houses the core on a rubber shock absorber. The movement of the core adjusts the rubber membrane. On the core there is a piston. And to direct the flow of the pumped liquid, a check valve is placed on the intake manifold.
Simply put: the coil is magnetite, the core vibrates, the shock absorber works as a body sealing gasket and returns the core in a neutral position, the membrane prevents the core from rocking, the piston pushes the water, the valve ensures its movement into one the side.
That's the whole design - simply and efficiently.
Pumps Kid and modifications produced with the lower and upper water intake. Units with a lower fence break more often, as their competitors have a better engine cooling.
The main types of faults and their causes
All faults can be reduced to two types:
- electric part;
- mechanical part.
In turn, each of them can be divided into two subgroups. This is a complete inoperability and partial disruption of work.
A partial loss of serviceability of the pump does not necessarily mean a violation of the adjustment. Sometimes the reason lies in the failure of its individual parts. But let's start in order.
Type # 1 - electrical failure
The most common malfunction is a coil failure. Complete burnout or breakdown of insulation on the case. Less often there is a detachment from the compound casing. The reason for the faults is one - the work is “dry”, without water, which causes the coil to overheat.
Then the insulation burns, the compound burns and, due to the difference in thermal expansion of the various materials, splitting of the pouring occurs and the yoke falls out of the case.
Sometimes the pump stops pumping altogether, but it can break the case. This is the most unpleasant damage, which can be avoided only by observing the rules of operation.
When troubleshooting, you will have to disassemble it. Thanks to a simple design, it will be possible to independently disassemble it into its constituent elements.
Type # 2 - Mechanical Part Damage
There is a full variety of causes and consequences:
- Liming details. Occurs from pumping hard water. This is a white lime scale type of scale in the kettle. In work, this is not particularly felt, but after long storage, for example, in the winter, the lime can jam the piston. The malfunction is rare, as a rule it only complicates disassembly and slightly reduces the characteristics of the pump.
- Violation of the integrity of the body. The impression is accurately cut by a file or a router. Usually the upper edge of the body. The reason is simple - contact with the concrete surface of the well during operation.
- Clogging of the working cavity of the pump. For example, by sand. Sand and pebbles, branches, algae - all this violates the tightness of the valve to the bed. Not critical, but unpleasant - the pump does not develop the prescribed power.
- Loosening screw connections. Occurs from vibration, occur infrequently. For example, the nuts tighten the piston. The consequences can be the most dire - up to the destruction of the body.
- Rubber breakage. Leads to a decrease in pump power. In rare cases, a complete cessation of performance.
The most capricious and sensitive to the weakening of the properties of rubber detail, oddly enough, a massive shock absorber. Too elastic rubber contributes to the breaking of the core, too hard - reducing the amplitude of vibration and loss of power.
In addition, when turning the core in the shock absorber, the projection of the stem base (a detail called an anchor is pressed onto the stem) does not completely coincide with the yoke and is less attracted to it. Hard piston moves water worse. A broken piston does not pump at all.
Valve with loss of elasticity works worse, but the pump does not fail completely. We also observe in violation of valve adjustment.
Sometimes there is just a loss of power. Often the cause is again turning on the pump without immersion in water. Most often this is due to neglect of the rules of operation.
For example, hanging the pump on a steel cable and without a shock absorber - the pump mount must be damped! Therefore, the kit includes a fishing line or nylon cord and a shock-absorbing ring for fastening.
Knowing the device of the Kid series pumps, it is possible to cope with your own hands with the repair of the units
Algorithm of search and elimination of malfunctions
If the pump refuses to work or does it somehow unconvincingly, then first of all disconnect it from the network and remove to the surface.
Stage # 1 - Attentive External Examination
This is followed by the disconnection of the supply hose and a visual inspection. Are there any visible damage.
Unfortunately, the cracks in the body are treated only by a complete replacement of the body. But even here it is worth remembering that simply because they do not appear in the casting, made under pressure - here lies another reason.
If the case is complete, the tester checks the resistance of the coils and the presence of a short to the case. A good yoke will show resistances on the order of 10 ohms. Any of the contacts (except for grounding) should not give a short to the pump casing.
If it is - it is bad. Replacing the coil itself is very difficult and the attempt gives poor results. However, recommendations on this issue will be a little later.
If everything is fine with the housing and the electrician, it is necessary to purge the pump. That is, just blow in his intake and feed holes. Air should flow freely in both directions.
But if you sharply blow into the supply nozzle, the valve should close and block the air supply.
If this does not happen, it speaks eloquently of a violation in the adjustment of the pump. Next, just shake the pump. Nothing should rumble inside it. The cause of extraneous sounds is the detachment of the compound or the destruction of the mechanical part.
If there are doubts about the need for disassembly, and the pump simply lost power, then you can try to do without disassembly. First of all we wash the pump with a stream of water. The task is to clean the sand and debris from the inside.
Then you can try to dip into a bucket of water. In water, add 9% vinegar (about 100 g per bucket) or a bag of citric acid. Leave for six hours. Then flush again with water. The purpose of the procedure is simple - to remove the liming.
Next, check the valve adjustment. It should lie loosely and have a gap of 0.5 - 0.8 mm. Simply loosen the lock nut and clamp nut on the pump intake and adjust. As soon as they got it right, we secure it with a lock nut. The process of control is simple.
We lower the pump without hose in a bucket with water. So that only the hose nozzle is peeking. And turn it on. In a serviceable and regulated pump, the water column rises about a meter.
On this fountain and we judge about the adjustment. As soon as we got the maximum value, we fix the result here.
We have listed the simplest. For the rest, disassembly is required.
A photo of
Stage 1: For repairs, the vibration type pump is disassembled into three components. Separate the lower part of the housing (in the photo above) from the vibrator (in the middle) and remove the electric drive (below)
Step 2: If the pistol loft is found during disassembly, we replace the worn metal washers
Step 3: Disassemble the valve located in the nose of the vibrating pump to remove plaque and rust
Step 4: If there is a need, change the rusted fasteners, then assemble the vibrating unit in the reverse order
Components of the vibrating pump
Replacing worn washers
Disassembly of the valve for preventive cleaning
Assembly of the vibrating pump
Stage # 2 - Inside Look
First you need to disassemble the pump. Preliminary it is desirable to make tags on the case. To then properly assemble.
Unfortunately, just unscrewing the fastening screws only on the new pump - during operation, the threaded joint is oxidized so much that it is still that task to disassemble it. The best help is patience and WD40 liquid.
By the way, in the past years at the factory on connecting heels in order to avoid razbaltyvanie generally scored core. Today they come a little more humane and use nuts with a plastic retainer. Similarly, these must be set during assembly.
If the disassembly is not set, you need to resort to a hacksaw or angle grinder (Bulgarian). Only very carefully, without damaging the case. It is better to replace the standard screws with hexagon bolts - then they are easier to unscrew.
By the way, it should be disassembled and assembled according to the same principle as the automobile wheels or engine block - we tighten or loosen the fasteners gradually, crosswise.
After repair, it is not bad to replace the standard slotted screws on the hexagon socket head bolts - they are easier to disassemble.
The pump splits into two halves - a yoke is in the upper compound, and all the mechanics are held in the lower one.
Stage # 3 - electrical troubleshooting
In the electrical half we look at the compound. If it is peeled off, then by accurately tapping the hammer on the body, we determine the area. If it is small, then you can try to cure the problem by pouring epoxy resin.
If the knot falls out of the body, then apply a shallow notch (with a grinder) to the compound no deeper than 1 mm.
And fasten the knot in place with a sealant, which is used in the repair of automotive glass. Epoxy resin is not suitable - it is not plastic enough and will simply burst later from vibration.
Pressing the coil into place is difficult - you may need a press with a force of about 300 kg. You can try and rewind the coil if it is blown. But it's harder.
First heat the body to remove it. Up to about 120 degrees. Until the compound is peeled off. To do it better in the fresh air - a burnt compound is not very good for health.
Cleaving carefully, they release the coil bodies (there are two of them) from the remnants of the compound. An old wire is wound from them. Then wind the new winding. Wire with a diameter of 0.65 mm, grade PETV. Turn to turn, approximately eight layers each coil.
The terminals of the coils are soldered to a moisture-proof wire with a cross-section of 0.75 in double insulation. And then the coil is poured into the case with epoxy resin with the addition of calcined quartz sand.
But in general, this method of repair is not very reliable - at the factory equipment and materials allow you to do it better. And repair of the electrical part can only be recommended as a last resort. In the rest it is better to contact the manufacturer.
Malfunctions of an electrical nature can be resolved on your own only if you have experience in performing such work. Otherwise it will be cheaper to buy a new part.
However, if you have a lot of free time and winding machine and skills to work with electrical devices, then you can try. But more often it turns out to be cheaper to completely replace the coil with half the body. In factories, by the way, they do it. It can be considered as an aggregate repair.
Stage # 4 - Correction of Mechanical Violations
With the mechanics easier. Carefully pull the unit out of the pump casing. First of all, we visually determine the faults: destruction, breaks, debris and so on. If there is blackness and fumes, we check the electrician again.
If there are traces of mechanical wear on metal parts, we check the gaps and shock absorber and once again recheck the electrical half for the delamination of the compound. This can be done by tapping a hammer - in the place of detachment the sound will be deaf.
Just sometimes the wear of the yoke and the anchor happens because the coil is shifted, falls out of the body. That is not always noticeable on the old pump due to pollution.
When disassembling, tears of the membrane and the shock absorber sometimes occur. The membrane does not particularly affect the performance of the pump and, if it can be glued with rubber glue, then this can be limited. But in this case it is better to replace the shock absorber.
The interior of the pump is washed from the sand - if it is there. Limescale plaque is removed on the same principle as the scale in the kettle - citric acid, vinegar, a means for removing scale. Just do not use strong alkali and other powerful tools - you need to clean the case, and not to dissolve it.
Most often, disassembling and assembling Kid pumps require after flushing wells. They must be regularly cleaned from sand and silt inclusions.
Next, look how the anchor of the rod is oriented towards the coil. Their projections must match. No - turn, loosen the mounting nuts. The distance from the anchor to the yoke should be 5 - 8 mm.
This clearance is governed by the washers and lock nuts on the stem base. More distance will not allow the pump to develop power. The lesser leads to the breaking of the yoke and the anchor, and sometimes the hull.
If the anchor on the stock is loose - which is extremely rare - it is fastened with core. Sometimes there is a rupture of the rod itself in the area of the piston mounting thread or the thread loosening - there is already only a replacement.
If the piston has worn out or it has lost elasticity, then everything is simple. We change it to a new one from the repair kit and adjust the gap between it and the bed in the case. This distance must be between 4 and 5 mm.
It is simply adjusted - by adding or cleaning spacers 0.5 mm thick. You will find them on the very stock above and below the piston.
When changing the piston should be aware of the steel sleeve, pressed into the center. To get it from the old one and press it into the new one is simple. Not even special tools are required. As a rule, it enters from hand pressing.
Sometimes a vice or just a bolt with a pair of washers and a nut help out - just push the piston and sleeve in succession onto the bolt and tighten it with a nut - the sleeve gets into place as it should. You can even try to do it right on the stock.
The membrane is changed extremely rarely - only if it completely crumbled. And so, if it is whole and the rubber has not lost its elasticity, then do not pay much attention to it. The main thing is that it is.
Good support in the work will be caliper with depth gauge. They measure the distance from the landing edge of the body to the bed of the valve, and then from the valve to the shock absorber. And bring them into line.
The pump valve is also easy to change - a screw and two nuts. The distance between it and the intake hole is regulated by simply pressing the screw. As already mentioned, the gap should be in the range of 0.6 - 0.8 mm.
Rod on the shock absorber, check valve and the piston is attached with lock nuts. We take this seriously.
If this fastener is later unscrewed from vibration, it can lead to serious damage - just one of the main reasons for the destruction of the case or the failure of rubber parts.
An important element in the construction of the pump is a rubber valve, which is located in the housing. It closes the water outlets, and in the absence of pressure in the device, it ensures its free flow.
We collect carefully. We draw attention to the pumps with the upper water intake to the coincidence of the holes in the housing and the shock absorber - for this we made labels before disassembling the pump. Both sides are the same and easy to confuse. If this happens, the pump simply refuses to work.
The screws of the case, as it was said, pull it crosswise, gradually. And very tight. Nuts are necessarily new, with a plastic retainer. It does not interfere with the washer Grover. Remember that the pump vibrates a lot during operation, which threaded connections do not like.
We check everything again. We measure the resistance of the yoke winding, blow the pump back and forth. If everything is normal, proceed to the test on a bucket of water. We lower the pump into the water, leave the hose connection outside. Or use for these purposes a piece of short hose. And we look like we are pumping water. Everything is fine - good. Weak - adjust the valve.
After recovery pump sets into the well or in the well.
Conclusions and useful video on the topic
A small video hint on repair and diagnostics, which will help to make repairs:
Always remember about safety! And therefore, even making sure of the integrity of the coils and the absence of a short circuit on the housing, we never hold the pump when checking for the housing! Always on a dielectric suspension only!
And never for such purposes do not use the power cord. Security is never redundant.
Is there anything to supplement, or have any troubleshooting issues with pumping equipment? Please leave comments on the publication. The form for communication is in the lower block.