Malfunctions of washing machines Asko (Asko)

When it comes to professional repair of washing machines Asko (Asko), it is required much less often compared to other competitive brands. In Russia, ASKO's washers are less common than Virpul, LG, Ariston and other common brands.

Today we will talk about this specifics, about common breakdowns and trouble codes, which they indicate.

Content of the material:

  • 1Typical breakages of Asko machines
  • 2The codes for the main mistakes of washing machines Asko
  • 3Breakage of washing machines Asko: repair by own hands
    • 3.1Do not rotate the drum in Asko's typewriter
    • 3.2In the Asko car the hatch is not blocked
  • 4Asko does not heat water, it is washed in cold
    • 4.1Temperature sensor failure in Asko machine
    • 4.2The failure of the triac in the Aska stylalki
    • 4.3Breakage of the heater in the car Asko
  • 5What to do next
  • 6Asko's machine does not drain water

Typical breakages of Asko machines

Despite the fact that Asko machines are less common than others, they break with enviable constancy. Owners of such equipment ask for help from service centers and workshops, stating the same problems:

  • The tank does not spin, or the drum does not rotate fast enough.
  • Can not close the hatch, or it is locked.
  • Linen is washed in cold water at selected high temperature marks. On any program, water remains cold.
  • Washing machine Asko does not drain the used water, the program "hangs".

Of course, there are other breakages, but they are much less common or typical for all washing machines. We will only consider those that are specific to this brand.

By the way, the situation around the SM under the Asko logo is a bit strange. From reliable sources it is known that in Finland a quarter of all families buy these machines and are satisfied with the quality of their work. If you get acquainted with the statistics of the Finnish service centers, Asko's quality is in line with Miele and AEG (German assembly).

But in the Russian Federation and in the CIS, the situation is completely reversed - our Asko cars are constantly broken. It can not be unequivocally said that this is affected by the quality of the assembly, the quality of the water or the washing powder. Do not exclude breakage due to violation of the rules of use, which are clearly spelled out in the operating instructions.

If you got a SM of Finnish or Swedish production, then you are lucky, congratulations! Even if you buy a used car that has successfully worked in Europe for 10 years, it will last you at least 15 years.

The codes for the main mistakes of washing machines Asko

In order to recognize the cause of the breakdown, the malfunction itself and repair at home, you need to know what the codes mean with which the eraser reports the problem.

In the Asko models, the most common error codes are E01, E02, E03, E04, E05, E06, Door lock fault, Floaming, Over flov, Termistor fault, Pressure sensor error.

Let us consider in detail the cause of the occurrence and the ways of solving each of them:

Error (title or translation) Explanation Cause
E01 The drive motor broke. To failure, the failure of the control triac and the reverse relay on the control module failed. Connectors could "fly off or the motor itself broke down
E02 Does not gain enough water. 1. There is no water supply from the water supply system.

2. The valve of water filling in the machine is broken.

3. Blockage in the inlet hose.

4. The management board is broken.

5. The water level sensor has failed.

E03 The problem of draining the waste water. The contacts of the drain pump (pump) could be damaged, the pump itself or the electronic controller is broken. In the event of a breakdown, the water level sensor in the tank may also be mixed.
E04 Water is supplied in an insufficient volume for the program. The water inlet hose is clogged. Or elementary pressure in the water pipes is not enough.
E05, E06 Water does not heat up. The TEN broke, or the electronic module failed.
Door lock fault The door of the hatch is not closed properly. Mechanical interference.

Breakage of the locking device.

Floaming A large amount of foam in the tank. The dosage of the detergent may not be observed. Or it is worth giving preference to products with a lower level of foaming.
Over flov Too much water has poured into the tank. Overflow can be caused by broken:

● the water level sensor;

● the priming valve;

● the control module.

Termistor fault Thermal sensor failure. The temperature sensor (thermistor) is broken or shorted.
Pressure sensor error Breakage of the water level sensor in the tank. The sensor itself could fail or the pipe connecting it to the drum.

Breakage of washing machines Asko: repair by own hands

Not in all cases it is possible to carry out an independent repair of such complex electrical engineering as a washing machine. But in a number of situations this is quite possible, if we act according to the instructions that we will give below.

Do not rotate the drum in Asko's typewriter

If you are faced with a situation in which the engine does not manage to rotate the tank with laundry properly, or if the drum is standing up tight, you need to figure out what was provoked. The problem is that the self-diagnosis system does not always work, in the end - the CM does not work, and the display does not show any codes.

Try to find out the cause yourself. Most often, the machine behaves this way because of the drive belt. He might not have come off, but the pulley of the drum still does not gain normal speed. Then it turns out that even a not fully loaded tank costs as if dead or rotates not fast enough - all at a speed of 100-150 rpm for 1 minute.

This speed is not enough to wash, rinse or squeeze.

Deeper into the essence of the breakdown, you can find that the drive belt and not at all - it can be completely intact (not counting small scuffs, they are characterized by details "aged"). The result of the problem may be the pulley itself - it was either initially of poor quality, or damaged in operation. As a result, a poor-quality or broken pulley spoils the belt and itself needs to be replaced.

If you decide to repair yourself, without overpaying the masters, act in the following order:

  1. Remove the rear wall.
  2. Remove the drive belt from the pulleys and inspect for damage.
  3. Inspect the engine pulley. If defects are found, the problem in it - we proceed further.
  4. Release the motor from the wires and remove it from the machine.
  5. Armed with a household bearing stripper and a blowtorch. Take everything that you need to repair and go to the garage, workshop or on the street, the house is not the best place for doing this kind of work.
  6. Remove the puller on the pulley of the engine and create a sufficiently strong tension.
  7. Do not try to break the pulley with the first movement - this will not bring results, and the stripper can also be scattered.
  8. After warming the blowtorch, heat the pulley, trying not to involve other parts of the part in this process.
  9. After you warm up the pulley well enough, it will easily come off.
  10. Cool the pulley, take it with you as a sample and go to the store for a new part. If you do not find what you need in stores or on the market, order on the Internet.
  11. The new pulley also needs to be heated to red for installation with a blowtorch.
  12. Having planted a pulley, cool it, then set the engine to where it was. If the belt is badly damaged, replace it.
  13. Replace the back cover.
  14. Connect and test the idle machine.

Important! If, at the same time, E01 is issued, the problem may be in the engine or the control module. Repair of these complex components is best entrusted to a good master.

This video demonstrates one more way to remove the pulley:


In the Asko car the hatch is not blocked

If the hatch does not close, repair by one's own hands is also possible - this breakdown in the service centers is classified as easy. Identify the breakdown is also easy - at first the hatch mechanism does not work, and the machine freezes during the start of the washing program.

Mistresses often do not consider this problem serious and brilliantly solve the problem by locking the hatch with the knee and rebooting the unit. After such actions, the machine erases, but not for long: maybe a year, maybe a month. As a result, the hatch mechanism still takes its toll and stops working, so the car sooner or later stops working.

It is necessary to disassemble the locking device for the manhole (ULL) and change the locking mechanism. Therefore, noticing even the first signs that the car door does not want to be blocked, it is better to immediately report this to a specialist or try to independently disassemble the SM and replace UBL.

Asko does not heat water, it is washed in cold

Slightly less often in Asco's stilalkas, there is a problem with heating water. This applies to washing machines with any load: vertical or horizontal. The problem, for its quick localization and elimination, notifies the code E05 or E06. As we saw in the table, errors are provoked by several breakdowns.

Temperature sensor failure in Asko machine

If the sensor and module contact is broken, the sensor does not give the controller a signal that the water is not heated enough, and as a result the machine is erased in ice water.

The failure of the triac in the Aska stylalki

The triac of the board is responsible for controlling the heating element - the heating element. If the triac breaks, the heater does not start to heat the water.

Breakage of the heater in the car Asko

Here everything is simple - if the heater has become scum and burned out, there is NOTHING to warm the water.

Your task is to establish that the above is to blame for the fact that the laundry is washed in cold water and, of course, does not wash from the deeper spots.

Important! In most CMA, the TEN and the temperature sensor are located either in the front or in the back of the tank. But in the ASKO brand the placement of the heater is non-standard - it is located on the side of the tank.

Not everyone knows how to get to the heater without such problems. In fact, there is nothing difficult in this - unscrew the rear wall, remove the drive belt (so that it does not interfere) and see the TEN contacts - they will "look" at you directly from the tank, from the side.

What to do next

Act strictly in the following sequence:

  1. Armed with a tester and set the knob to a min value.
  2. Remove the contacts from the sensor and the heater.
  3. Connect the probes to the contacts. If the resistance on the display of the tester is about 28-30 ohms (the power of the heater is usually 2 kW), then the part is complete with the part. And if the display is 0 or 1, then the fault is present.
  4. At the same time check the resistance of the temperature sensor - it can also be involved in the problem:
    • Disconnect the drain socket from the tank and drain the waste water into a bucket or other container (operate carefully so as not to pour the contacts, otherwise you will have to dry everything with a hairdryer).
    • Remove the sensor from the connector (do not break it or pull it yourself - the sensor has a special tab by pressing it, you easily remove the sensor from the hole).
    • Type warm water in the mug or glass and lower the sensor in it to heat, leave for 2 minutes.
    • Remove the sensor (Fig. 1), take the tester, setting the min value of resistance on it (Fig. 2). Screws to the contacts. The normal values ​​for the serviceable element are 40-60 Ohm (Fig. 3). If you see 0-1, then the sensor can be discarded.
  1. Check also the wires connecting the heater and the sensor to the controller, ringing each wire in turn. If all the wires are intact, then the cause of the failure in the electronic module.

We strongly do not recommend trying to fix the board yourself - remember that sometimes it costs up to 1/3 of the price for the entire machine, so in case of failure, repairs will be very expensive. Entrust repair or replacement of the card to an experienced technician.

Asko's machine does not drain water

Whichever model your ASO brand of Asco (W402, W502, W512D, etc.) is in, it can cause such a problem: the water does not merge, the machine hangs, but under the body there is not a drop of water. The reasons for this are:

  • Discharge of drain hose, nozzles.
  • Drain pump failure.
  • Water level sensor failure.
  • A break in the contacts of the pump or sensor with an electronic module.

Do not try to get to the electronics immediately - first, arrange your machine "clean Thursday". Do not spare the effort, and perhaps the problem will be resolved without repair. It is necessary to clean everything - a pump, a drain hose, branch pipes. A little tinkering, you will get the perfect sink.

In addition, this video clearly shows how to clean the filter:


If cleaning does not solve the problem, then again arm the tester and check everything that can be involved in the failure: drain pump, water level sensor and electrician (wires and contacts).

First ring the pump (pump). The operating resistance of the pump is 144 ohms, the level sensor is 60 ohms. Other values ​​will indicate a breakdown. If the pump and the sensor are all right, ring the wires.

If a break is not found, then the problem lies in the control board, and in this case, as we have already said, it is better not to save and call the master.

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