Care for raspberries - pinching or pinching shoots - description of techniques

Very often on gardening sites you can find this statement: "A very important point of caring for raspberries is pinching or pinching shoots. Do a pinch of a young raspberry shoot - this will increase the yield several times. " At the same time, neither the grade nor its features indicate. But the method of pinching can not be applied to all varieties of raspberries. Pinching (translation from German) - removing the tip of a young shoot by pinching with special tweezers, scissors or just fingers of the hand.

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Prischipka is one of the methods of agrotechnical measures for caring for the bushes, their formation, increasing the yield of raspberries. It is used to stop the growth of the main shoot up, to form the crown, to strengthen the growth of the left branches. This method is used to make part of the kidneys on the young shoot "wake up forming several lateral branches (lateralov).

The first time I learned about this method of increasing the yield of raspberries from the old fifteen-year-old magazine "Family. Earth. Harvest. " I tried it. Not immediately it turned out. But I can already draw some conclusions. Now with success I use prishchku young shoots. Care for this berry crop is in time pruning, watering or fertilizing. A pinch of young shoots perfectly complements them. But you can not use this method on all varieties of raspberries.

The first prishchipku do in the second year after planting, when the bush has at least two young shoots of replacement (Fig.,). If you pinch one (Fig. 1a), and leave the second untouched, then on the pinched sprout will grow 3 lateral (Fig. 1b). It happens 2, even 4. The second escape (neprishchiputy) lateralov does not give. If you pinch both (Fig. 2a), then on both grow two or three lateral (Fig. 2b). Rarely, but there are 6, mostly 3-4. It all depends on the type of raspberry, the cultivation of agrotechnics.

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The second prishvipku do for the third year after planting. Fig.3a shows 2 stems of fruit bearing + 3 shoots of substitution. The prickling is made on the average, the two side ones are left without pinches - they will not give lateral branches. On the middle shoot, 3 laterals are shown (Fig. 3b). Maybe two to five.

Fig. 4a also shows the number of fruiting shoots of substitution, but all three are made to nip. The number of laterals on the average - 3, the right - 2, the left - no. And maybe at all 2 or more.

In subsequent years, the number of options for pinches can be different. Everything will depend on the number of fruiting stems, shoots of replacement, years of life of the bush. As soon as the growth shoots began to grow less compared to last year, it means that the life of the bush ends, the pincer stops.

Before you start this operation, you need to know the type of raspberry, its reaction to prishchipku.

Pinching begins when the young shoots of replacement reach a growth of more, m, that is, they will exceed the trellis wire so that you can tie it up. This period of pinching begins around May 25, continues until mid-June. Sometimes the term is extended to the maximum until June 20-25, if the spring is too late.

Prischipku begin from the second year after planting a standard two-year seedling with a good root system, when the bush has at least two strong shoots of replacement.

Pinch only tall varieties of raspberries, which do not have the ability to branch - Bryansk, Meteor, Sunny, Balsam, Combi, Sputnitsa, Brigantine, Latham, Prussen Berlin, others. Pinch up to 10 cm of the tip of the young replacement shoot.

All low-growing varieties of raspberry pinching is not necessary. Usually these are those that give many substitution shoots, or they specially form a bush, leaving many fruiting stems or substitution branches-a total of up to 20, even higher.

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In any year, pinching should be carried out at no more than 50% of the replacement shoots.

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Pinschip, held later - July, for example, gives negative results. The lateral branching-literals will grow short, they will not have time to grow lighter before the first autumn frosts, that is, the epidermis shoots will be non-frost-resistant, and even if it survives the first autumn frost, it can freeze cold, long in winter.

Later, the pinching of raspberry varieties reduces the first autumn harvest in young shoots. Buds do not all blossom, inflorescences not all will be tied up, the fastened fruits not all will grow up, with a cooling can hang 10-15 days, even more, and if will ripen, berries will be small.

After pinches the period of awakening of kidneys, growth of lateral branches lasts approximately 10 days. If you do not do a pinch, then during this time the central shoot would have grown up by about one meter or more. That is, pinching the top of the central branch, we slow down the development of the plant. This slowing down has a negative effect on the autumn harvest of some patchwork varieties. Individual fruits do not have time to mature before the first autumn frost.

Some of the raspberry varieties of the summer harvest are prone to branching without the use of a nip. They independently form up to 3-4 branches-lateralov. So do not need a pinch. This is the Scarlet Sail, Cascade Bryansky, Kokinsky, The Shrew, The News of Kuzmin, others.

Of the repair classes I, for example, pinch only Indian summer, since after plucking it gives up to 15-17 lateral branches-laterals.

Repair grade No need to pinch the progress, as it is late autumn fruiting. The fruit branch, like a bunch of grapes, grows alone on the top of a young shoot of replacement, with a total number of buds, inflorescences, fruits up to 300, sometimes up to 400. If you do a pinch, then there will not be such a bunch. There will be 2-3 lateral branchings, lateral, blossom, part of the fruit will become tied, and it will not be time to catch up to the first autumn frosts. As a rule, clusters, together with branch branches, freeze, you have to cut everything off. The remaining young shoots turn out to be low, the summer harvest of raspberries decreases next year.

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On the Advance it is recommended to pull out 50% of buds, inflorescences, small fruits in the ovary stage. The remaining 50% of the fruits will be large, a 100% yield of commodity fruits before the first autumn frost is provided, yields will increase.

In the repair raspberry of the nondrevovid groups, in which, on young shoots of replacement in autumn, the crop is located at the top in a compact brush (Progress) or the fruit branch has several branches (Tachanka, Lloyd George, Meteor, Zhuravlik, Lesnaya, other varieties), do not make a pinch necessary.

Now there are many new wonderful varieties of raspberries. Nothing can be said about no one without practical application, whether or not yields will increase after plucking young shoots. All that is described above has been tested by experience. Some varieties of excellent response to prischipku significant increase in yields, while others, on the contrary, it declined.

With my story about the method of pinching young shoots, I can only call you - test your raspberries. Draw your conclusions, share them with us.

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Useful:

  • Planting raspberries, nursing, transplanting seedlings
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