To create a self-made oil heater in the first place, refer to the theory. Let us not talk about adjusting the thermostat or that the tank consists of sections. Mention the practical aspects - the dogmas. Without basic knowledge of construction will result in sorrow. Describe why oil heater makes strange rumbling sounds when turning the container upside down and back. Consider the possibility of self-production of oil coolers.
That know to manufacture an oil heater
Capacity surely sealed, oil boils and burns. Flash point is close to 200 degrees Celsius. Unrefined varieties are polymerized in air. Suitable tank of any configuration, but the best is sold in stores (increased maintainability). Construction of the Dialed sections fit. The necessary theory:
- First, the tank is filled with oil at 85%. The rest took the air. This is done so that the oil is not ruptured tank, otherwise the capacity is not withstand the thermal expansion of the liquid. But airbag dampens thermal shocks. Therefore, when you turn the oil radiator upside down and backwards is heard muffled, menacing knock. Nothing serious, just air bubbles find a comfortable position, and periodically rise to the surface, bursting.
- Oil take clear, heat-resistant. The first requirement is performed to prevent the formation of scale on the PETN, leading to an emergency. The second follows from the operating temperature. The oil heaters are often surpasses 100 ° C.
- TAN is selected by the power, but without the magnesium anode. With this dilemma silver rod. In fact, a magnesium anode or helix protects the tank walls against destruction, taking the brunt of electrochemical corrosion. In said chain aluminum victim and aggressor copper. But magnesium anode will not save. The oil is an insulator, extinguishes electric corrosion. Second, the chips with a magnesium anode quickly would lead heater in disrepair. It would have settled at the bottom that quickly brought down the spiral. Oil - not water, adhesion is not canceled.
- It is not recommended to combine the oil heater tank construction metals forming incompatible electrochemical couple: aluminum and copper. In the case of copper heating element is undesirable and the use of steel use stainless allowed. The device can get wet and out, causing corrosion with consequences. At least two minuses: not bother to find out the internal pressure, but believe that a considerable, and when the oil leakage may ignite in contact to air TENu. It is useful to know what materials to use. If TEN steel is allowed to embed the element in iron heating radiator, to find a better copper bimetal, and a battery tube of stainless steel. So you gain confidence that the design will not tear over time.
- For proper design learn how the oil circulates. In the factory radiator process it goes naturally. The heated oil rises in the heating element and drops to the opposite side. It is clear that in modern bimetallic radiators, where sometimes extremely narrow vertical passageways, passes number. In this case, to make the tank and forced TAN Suck oil through the channels. Note that the radiator tube narrower than that of iron. This does not allow to place inside heater. It makes more sense to create a design on the basis of the tank. Those who are determined to insert in the old cast iron heater battery - but the idea is really tempting - it is useful to learn how to handle the tool.
How to assemble and disassemble a cast-iron battery
The cast-iron battery as the housing for the oil heater is attractive for the simple reason that inside the screw in heater and a lot of other useful things, thread already sliced. The battery is assembled from sections. Each on the first side has left-hand thread, the second - right. Connect nipples, invisible from the outside, and the key are operating within. Nipple looks like a piece of pipe at one end of the right-hand thread and the other left. As a result, the rotating piece in one direction, the section is contractible, in other - breed.
Homemade key resembles a crowbar. There is a pair of the pin inside the teeth, for they cling to the flat slot. Crowbar resembles a giant screwdriver. One end is inserted inside, and the second rotation is carried out. The outlines of the handle often L-shaped or left ear for a crowbar, serving as a lever. We add that the factory version provided with notches on the key (number six), for easy parsing into sections. In this manner simplifies the installation or removal process.
Please note that the modern section of the asymmetric shape, an experienced master can say in advance where there is a left-hand thread, and where the right has disappeared. Soviet identical sides, but plugs and pipes with different meats, mix up will not work.
Emphasis is given as a copper or aluminum thread easily rip. Then the radiator will become worthless. You need to understand in advance the direction of rotation of the key. Without that make oil heater problematic. The shop sells kits for the assembly of the radiators, which includes Fittings and other useful things. Fittings include exclusive rights outside of the thread, which simplifies installation. Setting a permissible design valves, pressure sensors, temperature. On the test run is necessary to control these settings, then uncheck the next to the self-assembly of the oil heater.
The design of the oil heater
The power of the oil heater determines the heater. In this case, we put the two:
- in the lower part;
- on both sides.
Heaters are not touching. We have noted that the copper TEN steel is inferior in the case of cast iron radiators. But worse thermal conductivity. In terms of security, we recommend to ground the heatsink. The method is not critical. For example, at an arbitrary position to smooth metal, then soldered under the wire eyelet. The main thing - Functioning ground. Of course, it is necessary on the part of each of the four threads to check the resistance to unreliable contact case. The figure is not more than a few ohms.
With regard to the thermostat, the device stands in PETN, but go there in this case the device, configurable up to 95 ° C. We tend to think with great stretch. It is much more appropriate to adjust the iron snap here. There inside the bimetallic plate, adjustable handle to the desired temperature. But hold pressure control is necessary. Conventional cast iron radiators will not stand and 10 atm. Mindless heating is extremely dangerous. At the first start cheat gauge on one of futorok (or end sections), then successively pass modes homemade oil cooler. 10 atmospheres - approximate value. More inquired of a good plumber or the store. Of course, to bring the system to the limit is impossible, requires a considerable margin pressure on the self-made oil heater.
Note! Bimetallic strip is under the kettle will automatically shut off button. Respond to a relatively low temperature. Actuated steam. Threshold rate experimentally. The working switch is not necessary, but will serve as a safety switch.
With regard to control, already explained how to provide the function. We add that the plate is attached near the heating element on either side. It does not matter if it will fall upside down. Still required thermal fuse, with the selection of harder. The motors of household appliances and transformers are equipped designed for 135 ° C, which is not enough in this case. Which it is equipped with an iron, on the contrary, is rude. First of all, it is necessary to measure all of the modes, and in terms of temperature, then choose the thermal fuse to the oil regulator. Be sure to place this protection as close as possible to the vkrutke PETN. Under this deal may not be suitable soldering.
To be threaded, it is better to use the nut at the base of PETN. Not all have such heaters. Next - testing ground. Soldering must keep any temperature. Perhaps the best option would be to screw terminal into one of futorok. Refer to the site. We were told how to do an oil heater, and now readers will certainly understand that to make your own oil heater is realistic.
