Growing tomatoes in the open field has its own peculiarities and difficulties. In the spring, as soon as the soil dries, I loosen the ground with a rake or hand cultivator, sprinkled with organic soil from the fall, which helps to preserve moisture and destroy weeds.
- Choosing a site for growing tomatoes in the open ground
- Which types of tomatoes to choose
- When and how to plant tomato seeds in the open ground
- Thinning out tomato shoots
- Caring for tomatoes in the open ground
- Top dressing of tomatoes - open ground
- Processing of tomatoes from pests and diseases
Choosing a site for growing tomatoes in the open ground
Tomatoes are affected by the same diseases, pests that potatoes, peppers, eggplants. Therefore, I try not to put them in the same place where these crops grew before that.
After all, disease-causing disputes, viruses, pests live in the earth for several years. It is not recommended to sow tomatoes where they grew 3-4 years ago. It is not desirable for them to be close to potatoes - this will help to prevent infection with late blight. The Colorado beetle will not reach you either.
And the best predecessors of tomatoes are legumes, early cabbage, pumpkins, zucchini, cucumbers, it is permissible to plant them after onions, late cabbage. Tomatoes I place on the site protected from a wind..
Which types of tomatoes to choose
I have experienced many different varieties. Every year I sort out some sorts, add some. Now I tell you about growing tomatoes from seeds in the open ground. For this, I choose medium-sized or more often low-growing varieties.
Two years in a row I planted the Beta-Lux brand, I will plant it further. Very like. Low-grown variety, up to 50 cm high. Early ripening. Does not require pasynkovaniya. Red fruits. The pulp is juicy, sugary. Very tasty. Suitable for both salads and canning.
Alpatev's cultivar 95A was grown. Like that grows like a tree with a height of up to 50 cm, sometimes lower, does not bend, although the tomatoes hang on the bush enough. Round fruit of good taste, not large. The variety is resistant to phytophthora.
For many years I have been planting the Volgograd variety of tomatoes. I like the fact that it is drought-resistant. Tomatoes are dense, suitable for salads, canning. Fruiting almost to frost.
This year, for the first time, I sow a variety Novelty Kuban. Medium-late variety for open ground. The plant is up to 40 cm tall. Description on the bag promises a high taste quality, resistance to phytophthora.↑ back to content ↑
When and how to plant tomato seeds in the open ground
After appropriate, usual preparation, that is, heating, disinfection, washing, seeds are germinated.
Different varieties require different time for germination - from 2-3 days to a week or even more. I try to equate this by April 10-15 (usually by this time the soil is ready for early crops). I make wide holes about 40 cm in diameter. I pour the well with warm water with potassium permanganate. These seeds are dry and germinated mixed, evenly distributing them over the area of the well. The consumption of seeds in this case is increased. But I do so for insurance.
Very often there was such a situation that, with a cold snap or accidental frost, the germs of germinated seeds died, it was necessary to re-seed. And from the dry seeds the plants will pop out later, they will escape the frost, necessarily grow.
I also plant tomatoes with seedlings, but as a result, all the plants grown from seeds catch up to seedlings, besides they are stronger, stronger, less affected by diseases..
In the first and a half or two weeks, a lot of trouble with the emergence of seedlings. I do not hide my landing, they grow at first, of course, very slowly.↑ back to content ↑
Thinning out tomato shoots
As soon as 2-3 real leaves appear, the shoots should be weeded out. I try to leave those plants between which the distance is 5-10 cm. Of course, I leave the strongest plants..
The second thinning is done when small tomato plants have at least 4-5 real leaves. Again I leave in the hole only strong plants, between which the distance increases - 12-15 cm.
Before the last thinning hole well shed, I try, that would be the soil was very wet. Those tomato plants that decided to remove from the hole, I do not pull out of the ground, but gently dig it out with a clump of earth. They can be transplanted to a new location or planted there, where there were weak shoots. Thus, with the final thinning, I leave 3-4 plants with a distance between them to 40 cm. I try to make the plants grow on the perimeter of the hole.↑ back to content ↑
Caring for tomatoes in the open ground
Transplanted bushes of tomatoes are watered with Kornevin or Heteroauxin solution. You can sprinkle them with a solution of HB-101 (1-2 drops per 1 liter of water) - it will "revive" them, help to better transfer stress after transplant. The treatment with the drug Epin-Extra helps a lot. I periodically process them not only transplanted tomatoes, but also those that plant seedlings that remain intact in the wells. Epin-Extra increases the resistance of plants to diseases, unfavorable weather conditions.
Transplanted tomatoes, as well as those plants that have remained untouched should be promulgated - poured on top of the soil sawdust, dry or mown grass - so that the heavily moistened earth "does not crust is not withered to the next day. If you do not cloud the soil around the plants, then it is necessary to loosen the soil. Do this after every watering or rain.↑ back to content ↑
Top dressing of tomatoes - open ground
In order for plants to quickly and well develop, I do fertilizing. I start them after the plants began to grow. I feed them with the usual mullein or chicken droppings - what I have. I apply potassium permanganate (10 g of water - 1 g of manganese-potassium hydroxide) and sometimes 1 match box of urea is for foliar dressings. Mullein I breed: 0, and chicken manure 5, sometimes I add 1 tablespoon of urea. The rate of irrigation is about 1 liter of solution per plant. To feed it is necessary on already watered, damp earth..
As I grow, I weed out all the weeds, I loosen the soil with the simultaneous hilling of the stem.
At the beginning of the fruiting of tomatoes I try to sprinkle the soil with ashes, then loosen it and water it. Form low-growing tomatoes to leave 2-3 stems, and sometimes no shaping is required.↑ back to content ↑
Processing of tomatoes from pests and diseases
When the ovary reaches the size of a walnut, I spray it with a new preparation. Tomatoes rescuer. It protects tomatoes from late blight, macrosporia, while simultaneously stimulating growth.
Previously, tomatoes sprayed with 1 percent Bordeaux liquid or copper sulfate (40-50 g per 10 liters of water). Sometimes and now I do 1-2 such treatments.
Good help from diseases or pests infusion of garlic: -2 cups of garlic chopped garlic or meat grinder, pour hot water (but not boiling water), put a little bit of potassium permanganate, add to 10 liters of warm water, mix, strain. Do not insist! This solution can be sprayed. I alternate treatment every 6-10 days. For better adhesion, I add liquid soap. I do 3-4 treatments as needed.
Leaves below the bush or yellowed leaves are cut off. Experts assure that this method speeds up the process of keeping pace, tomatoes - the fruits are larger.
Ripening the maturation of tomatoes will also help pinching the tops of fruit-bearing shoots; under the fruits lying on the ground, to put plates or prop them with flyers; regularly rip off ripe or ripe tomatoes..
This is my experience of growing tomatoes in the open. Share your - leave a comment!