Have you decided to personally lay the wiring in the new cottage or upgrade the existing network in the apartment? Agree, in this area there are nuances that should be thoroughly understood for the sake of their own safety. In addition, an electrician created by his own hands is obliged to ensure the perfect operation of the devices.
We are ready to tell you in the finest detail how to connect a light bulb through a switch. In the implementation of such a solution, a number of proven methods are used, which you will learn while reading the article.
Here you will find a lot of useful information. Possession of information will give both confidence and strength. A thorough understanding of the issue will help graphics and video.
The content of the article:
- Electrical Safety Measures
- Tool for work
- Recommended cables and wires
- Junction box application
- Stripping insulation from wiring
- Nuances of twisting
- Proper installation of the switch
- Varieties of household switches
- Types of lamps for use at home
Ways to power a light bulb through a switch
- # 1: The simplest connection of the lamp
- # 2: Separately turning on the chandelier lamps
- # 3: Control a five-arm chandelier
- # 4: Lamp - one, switches - two
- # 5: Turn on lights from different places
- # 6: Connecting a chandelier with a fan
- # 7: Built-in motion sensors
- Conclusions and useful video on the topic
Electrical Safety Measures
Previously, before the start of the implementation of the installation of switches, lighting devices, their connection to each a friend and network, you must de-energize the 220V power of that part of the home wiring where the production of electrical installation works
This is done at the input. electrical panel disconnecting the common or corresponding group switch.
In order to avoid domestic injuries, work at height not from a stepladder, but from a table or other spacious, stable surface.
If, during installation, access by unauthorized persons is possible (for example, located on the staircase of an apartment building), it is necessary to place warning sign "Do not turn on!".
Make sure that the voltage on the bare contacts of existing electrical appliances and wiring is absent, you need just before work. The easiest way to do this at home is to indicator screwdriver, the serviceability of which shortly before the test is checked from the working network.
It is recommended before taking the contacts and wires with bare hands, once again to ascertain the absence of voltage by touching the back of the hand, fingers of the right hand alternately to all of them. Dry intact skin of the back of the hand has a high resistance to electric current.
The essence of connecting the lamp through a switch can be visualized on the demonstration stand:
A photo of
At the stand, a panel with lamps replaces the ceiling, and a table with a switch, a terminal box and a socket is a wall
The phase of the power line, represented by the vein on the left, is displayed on the switch, inside of which the opening mechanism is located
From the power line to the lamp is the zero wire (blue on the right). A disconnecting phase is laid from the lamp to the switch.
By pressing a key, we connect the contacts of the mechanism located inside the switch. The phase turns into a solid line through which current flows to the lamp.
Clear connection diagram on the stand
Power line connection
Connecting the lamp to the power line
The principle of the lamp through the switch
Tool for work
In the course of the electrical work performed by the home master, you will need a set of the following installation tools:
- Sharp knife.
- Passatizhi (pliers).
- Side cutter pliers.
- Screwdrivers slotted thin and medium, possibly a cross middle.
Insulation inside the junction box or luminaire housing for wire connections may require electrical tape. In these cases, the use of tape recommended HB. It does not melt over time and does not stick to constantly heated contacts isolated by it, but only dries. If necessary, crumbles well with pliers.
Before proceeding to the most simple installation, draw a wiring diagram of electrical appliances, as you will understand, and consider the procedure
Fine if there is a special wire stripper tool - stripper or wire cutters for insulation stripping. In the absence of such devices and a large amount of work, you can get away with a folk remedy by modifying the side cutters.
To do this, needle files in the cutting edges closer to the hinge are made opposite cuts, which together should form a hole the size of a little larger than the diameter of the exposed wire of the wire.
Recommended cables and wires
For the laying of home electrical lighting networks, it is recommended to use VVGNG cables with single-wire copper, 1.5 sq. Mm cross section, in non-combustible insulation of unequal colors of conductors:
- blue - zero working,
- yellow with green stripe along - zero protective (grounding),
- any other color - phase.
When installing it is desirable to observe a combination of uniformity of colors with their functional purpose. This requirement will secure, as well as simplify further maintenance of electrical wiring.
When making new wiring, wherever it is provided for the design of electrical appliances, be sure to connect the zero protective (grounding) core and do not use it for other purposes.
In houses, where the wiring is still aluminum, the replacement of individual sections of the lighting lines, sealed under the plaster, It is necessary to produce APPV-1,5 wire with aluminum conductors or similar cable with open laying. The same material is used because of the oxidation of the contact points of aluminum and copper inside the junction boxes.
If it is possible to replace the twist with terminal connections, copper wiring is allowed. It is strongly NOT advised to use any cables, wires with stranded (soft) conductors.
Junction box application
Cables, wires do not go directly from the panel to electrical appliances, from switches to light bulbs. All outgoing, incoming lines of electrical equipment are found in specific assemblies, called junction boxes. There they communicate in a certain way.
With the rules branch box installations, also called rasseechnymi, otvetvitelnymi, in the slang of electricians decoupled, will introduce the following article. We recommend to get acquainted with useful material.
Most often boxes have empty space inside. Wires of different lines between them are then connected using twists. To ensure reliability, it is recommended that tails of the joints be treated with special welding. Copper conductors may just be soldered.
Before being placed inside, open contacts are insulated with HB tape. It is possible to twist special insulating clamps onto the strands of wires. Here the tape-insulator is no longer needed.
Do not use PVC type electrical tape for insulating twists - over time it will stick to the contacts so that it will be difficult to remove if necessary.
If the box is equipped with screw terminals, the contacts are then made with their participation. Such devices allow you to connect aluminum conductors and copper. Terminals can be used clamping, but this is when there is enough space for laying the connected ends of the wires.
Stripping insulation from wiring
To remove part of the external insulation cable VVGNG requires a knife. It must be so sharp that even an inexperienced home master could make confident cuts.
The first incision is made from the end along the shell by 3-4 cm. After that, with one hand, they take up a bundle of loose ends of the wires, and with the other they pull the incised shirt. Then she screams herself.
The depth of the strain is such that the freed tails of the wires are of the maximum length that the junction box, bottom plate, or body of the lighting fixture can be laid. The stock will serve faithful service in the future when burning weakened contacts.
The torn shirt of the cable is turned inside out and neatly, so as not to damage the insulation of the wires, it is cut round.
The veins are easiest to clean, of course. stripping tool - stripper or at least nippers with side cutters. In the absence of the same, as previously used knife. The use of simple side cutters is allowed. In extreme cases, used biting edge pliers.
Removing the outer shell from the cable. it is important not to cut the insulation of the wires, and clearing the insulation of the wires - do not damage the metal surface of the cores
Light movements of the tool in a circle shallowly cut into the insulation and tighten it. The main thing is not to cut through the metal conductor, otherwise, where there is damage, it will break off. Well, if immediately, but not after installation.
The size of the exposed area is determined by the method of connection. When it is screw clips of terminals of the box, switch, chandelier or sconce, 0.5-1 cm can be enough. For twisting with the wiring of the lamp will need 2-3 cm.
If the strands are located in a junction box, the rule, the more the better, especially without soldering or welding. Usually 3-5 cm
When using screwed insulating clamps, clamping terminals to the length of stripping fit individually.
Nuances of twisting
When twisting the two wires, their bare ends are folded with the letter “X” so that the intersection is at the beginning of the isolation. Then the tips of the cores are clamped with fingers and twisted as much as possible. Further process help pliers.
In the same way connect three wires and more. If the connection is both long and flexible, it is folded in half, pressing the pliers. A shorter twist requires less tape.
The longer the length of the cleared tails of wires, the easier it will be to twist, and the contact will be more reliable - and you can always trim the excess
Insulating tape begins to overlap with the factory insulation of twisted wires to the width of the tape. After passing one layer until the end of the bare tails, another pair of turns is made, as if winding the air. This "emptiness" is bent back to the twist - it turns out a protected end, and the second row is drawn with the obligatory calling on the main insulation of the wires.
Proper installation of the switch
According to the performance switches are indoor and outdoor installation. Modern outdoor switches are suitable for mounting on any surface without additional insulating supports. Internal switches are hidden in round slots in the wall, equipped with special cups, called sockets.
How to install this wiring box in a concrete wall or in a plasterboard structure, detail written here. We advise you to read the proposed article before starting work.
Podozetniki - standard electrical assembly. They are also used for the equipment of sockets, because they are called so. "Podvklyuchateliki" would not sound very.
The correct position of the switch is considered to be at which the switch-on occurs by pressing the upper part of the key, and turning it off - the bottom. Even for a small person, this makes it possible to react in an emergency situation and promptly de-energize the appliance with a blow of fingers on the key from top to bottom.
Place switches on the walls so that they do not have to be “searched, groping in the dark,” and all family members could easily use them.
With proper connection to the switch from the junction box comes phase wire. To interrupt the phase wire circuit so that the luminaire is switched off without voltage - the main task of the switch.
The following photo-collection presents the connection process clearly:
A photo of
Let's analyze the scheme for the beginning. Two-button switch - a device that controls two different lighting devices from one place or two sections of the chandelier
Enter the wires in the junction box. Lamps are connected to a switch with a pair of outputs and one input through this distribution node.
In the terminal box for two lamps and the switch should be two neutral wires for the lamps, two phase wires for the segment between the switch and the lamp and one input
In the terminal box, the zeros intended for the lamps are connected to the zero core of the supply wire.
The phase conductor of the power wire entering the terminal box is connected to the phase conductor on the switch
The wires that remain in the terminal box are connected in the same way, then the box is closed with a lid
The ability to turn on the bulbs when the phase is closed by the switch mechanism is checked alternately for each lamp separately
Switching on and off the lamps can be done alternately and at the same time when you press the switch keys
Step 1: Scheme with a 2-key switch
Step 2: Terminal box for connecting lamps
Step 3: Wire groups in the terminal box
Step 4: Joining the zeros in the terminal box
Step 5: Connecting the phase core to the switch
Step 6: Install the terminal box cover
Step 7: Check the connection of light bulbs
Step 8: Turn on the two lamps with two keys
If the design of the device allows, inside the switch itself the phase wire is connected to the upper terminals, and all outgoing conductors are connected to the bottom contacts. This rule applies to the arrangement of any electrical installation.
Due to the design features, the exception to the general rules is made up of through and cross-switches, which are discussed below.
Varieties of household switches
The switches used in modern home interiors are diverse. In detail with the classification of light control devices introduces one of the popular articlesposted on our website.
When choosing a home switch, pay more attention not to its design, but to the functionality, strength of fasteners and reliability of electrical contacts.
By the difference in their functionality, the following most common varieties are distinguished:
- Rocker switch - his mission is simple: on / off.
- Two-button switch allows you to manage simultaneously two independent lighting circuits.
- Three-button switchaccordingly, coordinates the work in three directions.
- Switch-regulator (dimmer) not only turning it on and off, but also pressing the key or turning the knob to replace it smoothly adjusts the brightness of the light of the lamps.
- Switch with regulator - two-, three-key switch, which is a step, switching keys, controls the glow of all light bulbs at the same time.
- Single pass switch. A single key toggles the phase between the two wires. If one voltage is applied, then the other is disconnected, and vice versa.
- Cross single switch. Changing the position of the key synchronously changes the direct connection of the two lines to the cross.
- Sensor switch. It does not have levers - it starts and stops the supply of electricity by touching the fingers to its surface.
A switch with a motion sensor lights the lamp automatically, reacting to passing by a person.
Types of lamps for use at home
Lamp progress does not lag behind the switches. Their diversity is also impressive.
When purchasing an energy-saving light bulb, you should focus on well-known brands - after all, it should not only be effective, but also serve as long as possible.
But here, some more popular types are defined:
- Incandescent lamps - ingrained home sources of light in a round glass flask with a vacuum and a tungsten spiral inside.
- Halogen lamps - the same incandescent bulbs filled with special gas. It increases the service life, minimizes the size of their flasks. The disadvantage is that during installation it is impossible to touch the glass of the bulb with your hands.
- Fluorescent daylight lamps - not very common at home, but also traditional lighting devices (hereinafter simply “fluorescent lamps”).
- LED energy saving lamps, proceeding from the name, use a luminescence of groups of LEDs. Can be fixed in the usual screw-in cartridges (hereinafter simply referred to as "LED lamps").
Energy saving fluorescent bulbs are increasingly replacing the usual. The principle of operation is similar to the action of fluorescent lamps. Screw in like incandescent bulbs (hereinafter referred to simply as "energy-saving lamps").
Ways to power a light bulb through a switch
It is possible that some considered scheme of interconnecting a household switch to a wall or ceiling lamp will lower the details of the supply of a zero protective (grounding) wire. It seems that its connection will not cause difficulties.
In a standard electrical cable, it is a conductor with yellow insulation and a green stripe along. The place of her accession to the appliance is indicated by .
# 1: The simplest connection of the lamp
The most elementary is the connection "on / off" of the lighting device to the single-button switch with two wires. Most of all, it is suitable for a single single-lamp lamp.
Developing new switches, manufacturers adhere to the standards - replacing the usual “one-button” with an electronic device will take place without problems
When the old wiring has only two wires coming out of the ceiling or wall that feed the electrical appliance, and the rework is complicated, you can connect a lamp to a larger number of lamps. But with this connection, all the lights of the lighting device will turn on at the same time.
A classic single-button switch without upgrading the wiring is easy to replace with a switch-dimmer switch (dimmer) made as a single unit. It is possible to purchase an instrument with a knob-like regulator, or you can - in the form of a knob.
Characteristics of the dimmer must match the power of the connected lamp. The only thing is that it cannot be used in conjunction with lighting fixtures equipped with energy-saving, LED or fluorescent lamps.
For a standard installation in conventional plug-ins, the industry has mastered the production of touch switches that have only on / off functions. They are also connected by two wires and can replace the simple single-key.
# 2: Separately turning on the chandelier lamps
Typically, three- and five-horn chandeliers are designed so that the lamps can be connected separately or together in groups (1 + 2/2 + 1; 2 + 3/3 + 2). This allows you to adjust the illumination of space by the number of simultaneously operating light bulbs.
If possible, it is better to fix the ground wire to the chandelier directly, rather than through the terminal block - this will increase the safety of the lamp
In this case, you need a two-button switch and electrical wiring, with at least three wires. The inclusion of one of the two or both keys will adjust the brightness of the lighting device.
Still switch with two keys it is used to control from one point the lighting of two, most often adjacent, premises independently, for example, a toilet and a bathroom, a hallway and a storeroom.
If instead of the usual two-button switch to use for the chandelier two- or even three-key with built-in keys separate regulators, then all of her lamps will burn simultaneously, and you will manage to control their heat in steps, switching keys.
# 3: Control a five-arm chandelier
Where there is a need for separate and simultaneous control of three independent lighting devices, a three-key switch is installed.
When connecting a switch to the circuit, make sure that it is the phase wire that comes from the box - always try to put it on the top terminal
To surprise guests, it is possible to connect a five-arm chandelier through a switch with three keys. However, it will require a small alteration at the terminals of the lamp itself. From the group of three linear wiring one must be disconnected and used independently.
Then, using various combinations of keystrokes of the three-button switch, it will be possible to switch on simultaneously from one to five lamps (1 + 2 + 2/2 + 2 + 1/2 + 1 + 2).
# 4: Lamp - one, switches - two
What to do when the corridor is long and dark? This situation will help to allow the installation of the lamp with two single switch breakers at different ends of the transition. The disadvantage of this method is the undefined position of the on / off keys.
Another such method of lighting control is applicable when moving upstairs, in an attached garage (entrance from the house, exit through the gate, and vice versa). An additional switch near the sleeping area will not become an excess if the room is sufficiently long.
When practicing non-standard luminaire connection schemes, one should make sure that they are expedient, since this increases the length of the wires and the complexity of installation (+)
Is it possible to independently illuminate the spans of the stairs, going up or down the stairs? Additionally, you will need another single entry switch on the interstorey site. By pressing just one key, it will simultaneously turn on the next lamp and turn off the previous one.
# 5: Turn on lights from different places
In order to control the luminaire from more than two centers, in addition to the walk-through switches, cross single switches will be required. Every new point - one by one.
A multitude of switches is convenient if living rooms overlook the extensive home hall. The inhabitants of any room will be able to turn on the light at their doors independently of anyone, and turn them off in all other places equipped with auxiliary switches.
With proper organization of installation sites for additional switches, in addition to the ease of use of lighting, significant energy savings can be achieved
This method is also useful in rooms with a hotel-type layout - many doors opening into a long corridor.
# 6: Connecting a chandelier with a fan
Tugging on a pendant on a chandelier equipped with a fan is inconvenient to turn it on. This is also problematic when the ceiling is high.
It is easier to use the studied methods of separate connection of lamps of a chandelier. The fan is connected through one of the keys of the two- or three-key switch.
In the first embodiment, the lamp can only burn completely. In the second - the bulbs will be lit in two groups.
# 7: Built-in motion sensors
By itself Motion Sensor already a device switch. But it is interesting to us, precisely when it has a standard case and can be built into the bottom plate.
It turns out that it is connected to the gap of the phase core going to the luminaire as an ordinary switch. But the problem is that the internal electronic circuit of such a device requires a full 220V power supply, which means another wire, blue, zero.
In accordance with the principles of connecting the lamp through the switch connect the motion sensors (1). If there is a need for periodic continuous operation of the lamp, turn on the switch (2) in the circuit. If one sensor cannot cover a large room, then several pieces are connected to the lamp. The sensors play the role of a switch (3)
If you wish to install a switch with a built-in motion sensor instead of a single-button one, you can not do without replacing the twin-wire cable that extends from the junction box to the three-core cable.
Conclusions and useful video on the topic
Videos present practical tricks.
VIDEO №1 will show an example of a simple connection of a switch and a light bulb:
VIDEO number 2 will help to master the skills of connection and insulation of wires:
VIDEO number 3 will tell how to connect chandeliers and not only:
Manufacturers in one place do not tread. All new, more ingenious lighting devices they invent. But no matter how cosmic the lamp seems, there will always be an easy way to connect it. Basic schemes, rules for connecting light bulbs with switches, conditions for the safe conduct of electrical work will remain typical for a long time.
Do you want to share the experience of an independent installer, interesting and useful connection nuances, found shortcomings in the presented material? We are waiting for your comments. Please write in the block below, post photos on the topic, ask questions.