Weed control - what means and methods to deal with them

These unpleasant weeds, always complicate our lives. They make us work in the garden more than we would like. Weed control requires constant attention, a little gape - they again covered the area with a solid carpet. How to fight? Is it possible? Do I need to get rid of them? What harm from them? What are the most harmful? What means to fight there? What you need to get rid of necessarily? What if they bring benefit, and we fight, we fight?. ..

Contents:
  • Herbicides against weeds, which are, which ones to apply
  • Photo
  • Purslank garden, photo and how to get rid
  • Weed woodlouse - photo how to fight
  • Yarmote purple - weed

There are many herbicides to fight against weeds, weed control. Each is designed for specific species. Read the instructions, choose the drug most suitable for your garden. After all, every weed grass has certain properties to respond to a particular drug. There are even special tables that take into account the sensitivity of a particular weed to a particular tool.

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Herbicides from weeds, which are, which use

According to the nature of the herbicides are divided into preparations of continuous and selective action. Herbicides of continuous action affect all types of weeds, and selective action( certain doses) are dangerous for some, but relatively safe for others.

The effects of herbicides are contact and systemic.

Contact contact plants by direct contact with leaves, stems, or roots, causing burns, necrosis, and then death of ground organs or their young seedlings.

Systemic, getting inside the weed through ground organs or roots, are able to move around the plant, exerting a toxic effect on it.

In terms of application, herbicides are: preseeding, pre-emergence, post-emergence. Almost all modern drugs gardeners contribute by spraying the leaves of weeds.

If you follow the basic rules for the use of drugs, chemicals should not pollute the soil, have a harmful effect. However, introducing increased doses, or using them for a long time, you can still pollute the soil - who knows how our health will react.

Agronomist scientists advise combining chemical means of weed control + agronomic methods.

Pyraeus creeping

In the autumn, after harvesting, when only the weeds were left, I used a herbicide of systemic action, for example, Roundup, to fight against it. It was quite effective against sow thistle, sworoya, couch grass, field bindweed( birch trees), shchiritsy, ragweed, and others.(New warning information about the preparation Roundup read below).

By the way, my experience confirms that it is best to use drugs of systemic action in the fall. It is difficult for me to explain why in the fall, but I noticed that in the spring it is sometimes necessary to re-treat weeds, and in the fall one treatment is enough. In addition, if you are going to fight against weeds using herbicides, turn over the lunar calendar: the best thing to do is when the moon wanes, because at this time the sap flow goes from leaves to roots, so the drug will reach the roots faster, and you will see the result faster.

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Weeds - photo and names

Schiritsa

I can hardly boast that I won completely the weeds. Unfortunately no. But I am glad that the number of such malicious, difficult to deduce, like a swine, field birch has decreased, and I don’t see wheatgrass where the potatoes and pumpkins are planted, but, of course, in some places it remained. ..- malicious weed

Pyryi I refer to those weeds, from which it is necessary to get rid of. After all, wheatgrass roots are the main shelter of the wireworm. Especially carefully it is necessary to clean it where you are going to plant potatoes. About three years ago I set myself the following task: to get rid of the wheatgrass, because weeding, pulling out with the roots of success did not bring. After harvesting, she walked through a potato field( 3 acres) with a sprayer filled with a Tornado solution. Two weeks later, I noticed a partial yellowing of the leaves of weeds, and a week later - the whole field was white and yellow. This color suggests that the roots began to die. By the way, such an operation with a Tornado almost completely produced wheatgrass.

By the way, experienced gardeners advise for a successful fight against wheat grass in the fall, after harvesting, sow with rapeseed: sow in the fall, and bury it in the spring or stock it. Canola will help you get rid of the wheat grass. In addition, it is a great siderat. He will play the role of green manure: fertilize, heal your soil. Thus, the benefit will be twofold: get rid of weeds - improve the soil.

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Weed birch, which is difficult to get rid of

Much less than the next spring was birch trees. But she still was.

I explain this by the fact that before digging up potatoes, I cleaned the potato patch from weeds so that it was easier and more convenient to dig. Pyrei is almost impossible to pull out of the ground, especially from dry ground - I did not touch it. But whip birches I cleaned. Apparently, before spraying the Tornado, many of the roots of the birch tree were too deep; the Tornado was not enough.

Below I will give practical advice from experienced gardeners on how to get rid of birch( convolvuli).

This weed prefers heavy, clayey, low structural acidic soils, so in the fall any deoxidizing material, such as lime fluff, must be added( faceted glass per 1 m2).But remember that the same area may have unequal acidity in different places. If there is no litmus test on hand, check it like this: pour boiling water( one glass is enough) on a handful of fresh currant leaves or cherries, soak for a while, strain, add 2 tablespoons of soil from the area to be tested, mix. When the earth settles, the infusion will change its color. If he gets a reddish tint, then you take a sample where the soil is acidic. And if it is bluish or greenish, then the reaction of the soil is alkaline or neutral.

And in order to make it more friable, in the area overgrown with weed with birch( bindweed), bring in the fall a couple of buckets of compost or manure, necessarily rotted. Try to distribute these quantities on the site of 1 sq. M.m. Dig the soil, so that the compost or manure to deepen by 10-12 cm, no more. Such a small embedment will stimulate the development of beneficial soil microorganisms, earthworms, the soil will become more loose, structural, better permeable to air, water, that is, one that the bindweed does not like. And in the spring, when the first sprouts of the loach begin to appear, immediately treat them with herbicides: Roundap, Glyphosate, Hurricane Forte.

There is another way to deal with such a malicious weed, like birch( field bindweed).You can get rid of it even in one year. But only on some limited area. For this, do not plant anything there until the end of May. Give bindweed to ascend, good to develop. And then treat this area Roundup. Weeks after three shoots, the birches will turn yellow, which means that the roots have died. Free the plot from the dead weed: you can plant anything there.

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Bermuda grass weed - photo

Bermuda grass - spreading quickly across the field, thanks to powerful lateral roots
Bermuda grass with root system
Bermuda grass has already given the side shoots - so it multiplies

Bermuda grass is also very cumbersome to destruction. Reproduced by pieces of rhizomes, which are formed when weeding out with chopper or when digging, plowing. Drought does not take it, because the roots can go deep into the ground more than 1.5 m. That is, it is almost impossible to destroy it mechanically. I, for example, left a part of my plot not planted, where I was especially upset by the pig, I processed it with a Tornado. It helped where the weed was processed.

But, nevertheless, I didn’t manage to remove the pig with the lead from the first time. The task is complicated by the fact that he gets out of the ground after the emergence of garden shoots. Herbicide treatment is dangerous - you can accidentally hurt the shoots of the garden. It remains only to wait for the harvest. .. And all summer I walk around the site after the rain, digging with a pig, or rather, trying to wrest, since the main part of the root still remains underground. I dig it where it grows too close to, for example, a pumpkin bush or a zucchini. And if I see a swine between garden plants, then I only cut off the spikelets that are beginning to form in order to somehow prevent its seed reproduction.

Familiar with one gardener, who destroyed with a pig( he has 8 acres of land) - his plot is free from this weed for several years. For many years after the autumn plowing, he walked around his field with a trident hand cultivator, pulling them out of the freshly plowed land, cut by a plow, pig roots.

The roots of the

Of course, all the roots cannot be selected at once - only a small part of them can be collected this way - the main root still remains deep underground, but by doing this every year we weaken the weeds - sooner or later we will defeat it. It is necessary to choose everything from the earth, even small parts of the pig root. The smallest piece, less than 1 cm long, will germinate in spring. In the spring, again, we must go through a plowed field — we will surely find the roots that we accidentally went around in the fall. Mechanical control of the weed swigor should be combined with drug treatment.

The third year has gone since the first treatment of weeds in the fall by chemical means. Recently, I prefer to use Tornado. Weeds where I plant potatoes, corn, sunflower, pumpkins, zucchini are much smaller. Pyreya is almost there. But there are others after all. .. After the harvest, it is still easier to fight them.

But the areas planted with strawberries, raspberries, and other perennial crops are free from weeds in whole or in part very laborious, almost daily work. .. All I dream is to plant strawberries on a black spunbond that covers the whole earth, preventing the grass from sprouting. But for now I’m only dreaming. .. Although there is a positive experience with weed control in this way.

Overgrown Thistle
Here is such a thistle 1.5 meters high - freedom!
So osotve blooms
Birch( bindweed) braided everything - even the land is not visible
Birch in spring - the main part under the ground

I use herbicides only on large areas of land that I have for growing potatoes, corn, sunflower, pumpkins. Small areas, which are located between the fruit trees, shrubs, between areas planted with strawberries, raspberries, I try not to process chemistry.

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Garden Purslane, photos and how to get rid of

Garden Purslane - this is still very small

This year there was a lot of garden purslane. It has fleshy dense leaves, reddish thick stalks, grows, as it were, with a rosette. Sometimes a single weed can cover a large area of ​​land with its shoots. He emerged from the ground after the potatoes had risen. It was impossible to spray poisons. I had to spend the whole summer working chopper. This weed is unpleasant by the fact that after weeding it must be removed away, left, it can take root again if left on wet, for example, after rain, soil. Chaplet for purslane is not always dangerous - its basal neck is under the ground, if cut above it, new shoots will soon appear. It is best to pull it out of the soil with the root or chop off the root at a depth of at least 2 centimeters.

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Weed woodlice - photo how to fight

A mooris or a starfish is a weed grass that spreads particularly quickly where carrots grow.

. Litter can occupy a huge area.

. This unwelcome "neighbor" thickens plantings, hinders the normal development of plants. How to deal with such a weed as wood lice?

Successful will struggle with kerosene. Refill the sprayer with a small amount of kerosene - 100 grams will be enough. Spray the crops of carrots, capturing at the same time between the rows, where the wood louse grows. Only this should be done when shoots of wood lice will be in the phase of three leaves, only in dry sunny weather. In two or three days the wood louse will wither and then wither. Do not worry, carrots will grow. From my own experience I can say that after such treatment it grows even better.

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Yarnotka purple - weed

In my garden there is another weed that is very difficult to get rid of. It is a clear purple. When the tree is in bloom, bees always swarm around its small flowers. After all, this is a great honey plant. There is even evidence that bees can collect 56 kg of honey-bearing nectar from one hectare of sowing berries. By the way, sometimes landscape designers use claret tree to fill empty, semi-shady places, creating their landscapes, although in this case they plant more decorative varieties. Lamination well "spreads" in the nearby area, so its reproduction must be controlled.

Chistets forest( dead nettle)

It is also called deaf nettle, red nettle, false nettle, gill, snake grass, shandra. And we called it a dog's nettle or a “dog” as children - the flowers with a form resemble an open canine mouth. This is a perennial. No digging, weeding does not help. April-May blooms in the Kuban. Breeds from nodules that are located at the ends of the roots, are deep underground. Seeds also multiply, but they have a thick shell, so it is difficult to germinate. The only advantage of this weed is that if it is thrown away in the spring, then this year it will not appear anymore, it will rise only next spring.

Watch a video offering a very effective way to get rid of weeds forever.

If grass grows from cracks along a concrete path, or from any other hard surface, prepare the following mixture: 2 cups vinegar( 9%), 1/4 cup salt, a few drops of dishwashing liquid. Place the mixture in a jar or bottle, screw the lid on, stir well. If the cracks are narrow, then dial the mixture with a syringe, bring it inside the crack along the entire length. And if the cracks are wide, then pour the crack with the mixture through the narrow neck of the bottle or the tip of the old kettle. A simple alternative to this method is to pour boiling salted water into cracks. But it is desirable that the water does not fall not harm the garden plants.

Ambrosia is very harmful to vegetable gardens, people with allergies.
Chamomile is beautiful, useful, but only outside the garden

I tried to describe here the main weeds, whose names I know, that grow in my garden. But there are some whose names I don’t know. .. I’ll try to gradually upload photos of weeds unknown to me, and from you, dear readers of my blog, I’m waiting for comments in the comments - suddenly someone knows, will write its name, distinctive features that will helpget rid of it.

By the way, you can take a picture of your weed grass, attach a picture to a comment. Perhaps, by common efforts we “recognize her in person” - it will become more difficult for weeds to live with us.

P.S.The article was written long ago. I have actually applied Roundup for several years in a row. But now, I wouldn’t offer it to you to control weeds — information appeared about the almost lethal effects of one of the components of Roundup, glyphosate. The world's leading oncologists have stated that the most widely used herbicide in the world may cause cancer! Nowhere has I found information about the mechanism of Roundup's effects on the human body. I can only assume that it is harmful to inhale small droplets during spraying. It is dangerous for the skin, mucous membranes. If you nevertheless decided to use Roundup, then use necessarily means of protection - a respirator or a bandage, glasses, gloves, pants to protect eyes, skin of hands, feet from the ingress of funds. Roundup is actively promoted by Monsanto, but it may appear under the Rodeo and Accord trademarks, and other names may appear over time.

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