Often, large household appliances, in particular a washing machine, knock out a dispenser, RCD or stopper. She does not have time to reach, the program stops, and at the same time the light disappears in the whole apartment. Sometimes it happens that the light is on, but the SMA still does not turn on.
In matters of electricians, we will understand further - tell you what the machine can knock out the machine and what to do in such cases.
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- 1 Contentsin case of such a failure, many immediately go to the panel or counter to switch the tumbler switch to the on position and continue washing. If the failure is caused by overloading the system, such actions are not allowed - if you turn on the machine yourself during the overload, you risk breaking expensive household appliances.
Important! Experts agree that in such a situation it is necessary to find the reasons for which a traffic jam or machine gun was knocked out, or to call an electrician to fix the problem.
If you decide first to find out for yourself why the machine knocked out an RCD or plug, familiarize yourself with the typical causes causing a similar failure:
- Installing an inappropriate protective device and typesetting device.
- Worn or inappropriate wiring.
- Shorting the power cord to the washer.
- Failure of the outlet.
- Network filter failure.
- Shorting the buttons on the control panel( most often the start key).
- Breakdown of the control module CM.
- Blown terminals and damage to the wiring machine-automatic.
- Breakdown of other components: electric motor or heater.
Important! If you have never repaired an electrician before, then entrust the search for causes of damage to repairmen( an electrician, a washing machine repairman).
Next, we consider each of the problems separately.
Communication Problem
A washer has a significant load on the power grid, so manufacturers also recommend using a network that is protected by a RCD.
Do not ignore the electrical wiring. To connect the CM to the network, you should select the VVG cable with the parameters of 3x2.5 mm - this applies to all machines, with or without drying.
In life, few people bother with the correct connection of the machine - it is included in the common outlet with the rest of household appliances, and with the help of an extension cord, and even using an adapter. All this mercilessly affects the wiring and the power cord, can lead to a melted outlet. Protection immediately reacts to such factors, therefore the machine knocks out an automatic device, the power grid is de-energized.
It is easy to diagnose a problem: pay attention to the wiring - it should darken, the socket may melt, and the smell of burning plastic will also be in the air.
To prevent and prevent problems, take the following actions:
- Take care of setting up a separate network according to the washing machine connection diagrams.
- Choose an outlet with a waterproof housing.
- Be sure to install an RCD.
If there is a suspicion of violation of the integrity of the CMA wire, use a tester to diagnose a breakdown. What to do:
- Unscrew the base plate of the machine.
- Remove the fasteners holding the power cord.
- Ring the wire strands to diagnose the breakdown.
- If everything is fine with the wire, but there are blown terminals, they need to be replaced.
Breaking the power filter, the problem with the buttons
If the cord is in perfect order, check the machine further. The next element, which could because of which she could knock out the machine - is a surge protector. Usually this element is connected with the power cord. Manufacturers of household appliances produce a filter in combination with a cord - then you need to change the whole set.
The part is not repaired, so after checking the filter with a tester, it is worth visually replacing the part if a breakdown is detected.
Sometimes an automaton may be knocked out due to a broken connection of the filter contacts to the power cord. This leads to burning of the contacts of the filter and the cord. You should not mess around with stripping the contacts - replace them and the filter so that no new power fails in the future.
Buttons - not less rare reason for which the machine can knock out when turning on the machine. Time does not spare the buttons, so when you click on them, it can pierce contacts, which causes the network to be overloaded.
In this case, it is worthwhile to act as follows:
- Disassemble the washer( read about the analysis of individual models in the relevant articles: How to disassemble the LG washing machine; Bosch; How to replace the bearing in the Samsung washing machine).
- Take the tester to check the contacts of the start button.
- At the same time ring the contacts of the other buttons and their wiring.
Problems with the controller, wires and terminals
If during the test it turned out that everything is in order with the cord, filter and buttons, it means that you will have to carry out a thorough check of all the electricians.
If you have already begun to disassemble the control unit, then start checking with it. First, call each posting, starting with places where there are gaps and irregularities.
Caution! The control panel is a complicated and expensive part, so think carefully about whether it is worth checking manually or it is still better to entrust this task to specialists.
If the problem is not in the controller, then ring the wiring that goes to the electric motor, pump, heater, sensors, UBL and other elements. All burnt places need to be replaced, even if they are in working condition. When the wires fail( and they will definitely do it), you will again have to disassemble the machine body.
Blame the heater or the engine
If checking the previous parts did not give effect, then there is a possibility that the heating of the water in the washer is broken. TEN - the reason for the failure of every third washing machine because of too hard water. The raid remaining on the heater ceases to transmit heat over time, due to which the heating element begins to burn out.
Often the heater fails due to pump failure. If the pump is running all the time without shutting down, then cold water will continuously enter the system, which the heating element will attempt to heat.
To test the heating element, perform the following manipulations:
- Arm yourself with a tester by setting the selector wheel on the indicator 200.
- Open the front or rear panel( depending on the brand and model of the machine: in Bosch and Siemens, the frontback).To remove the cover, it is enough to unscrew several fasteners.
- Below the drum you will find the heater shank and its 2 contacts.
- Attach the test leads to the contacts and look at the display.
- If the indicator is around 30 ohms( +/- 15 ohms), then everything is fine with the heater.
- If the figure is higher or lower, the heating element needs to be replaced.
- To get the heater, you need to unscrew the central nut, push the bolt inwards and pull the part towards you.
Caution! To replace, buy only original analog parts that fit your brand and model AGR.If you buy a fake PET or unsuitable for power, then it either will not work, or it will quickly break.
Engine - another more rare, but possible reason for knocking out the machine. We do not recommend checking or repairing the motor yourself. But if you are confident in your abilities, then use the tips from the page “How to check the washing machine engine”.
We advise you not to let the problem take its course, but try to find out the cause of the failure yourself or contact the master. Instructions from our article will help you.
- 1 Contentsin case of such a failure, many immediately go to the panel or counter to switch the tumbler switch to the on position and continue washing. If the failure is caused by overloading the system, such actions are not allowed - if you turn on the machine yourself during the overload, you risk breaking expensive household appliances.
