Tell about the device before the tips on repairing an oil heater. Who knows the complete set of information - scroll to the second subsection. Oil heater is not a water heater - patch easier. On the other hand, it is heavier( cyclic temperature deformations give gaps).Others do not recommend scrolling through the first section: we will determine the conditions for carrying out repairs, for example, a tank. Without detailed knowledge of the device inside there is nothing to do.
Oil Heater Device
Temperature Modes and Oil Heater Tank
The principle of the oil heater is to transfer energy of a small area, the dimensions of the heating element oil, then through it to the surface of the steel tank. The amount of heat loss depends on the temperature difference on both sides of the plane, area. The first parameter is unprofitable to increase - the spiral will burn. If you do increase the area - we will achieve the desired result. The calculation is such that the surface of the tank could not get burned, but the temperature difference with the room should be significant for heat exchange.
Normal conditions: in a room 20 degrees Celsius. Citizens bring the temperature to 35, even higher - not good for health. Manufacturers have chosen the lesser of the evils - the surface of the oil heater heats up to 70 ºС.
Disassembled oil heater to determine the modes:
- Emergency thermostat KSD 301 with a response temperature of 80 degrees Celsius.
- Left-brand thermal fuse, tuned to 142 degrees Fahrenheit( 61.5 degrees Celsius).
The first was a sensitive area on the channel closest to the electronic unit section of the radiator. The oil is in the harmonica made up of sections. They are seamed to each other, the seams are stuck outside by spot welding( dashes in reality).The accordion-radiator is not folding, stands on a platform with wheels: drawn by two steel wire straps. From one side of the accordion in the form of a heating radiator, from the other leaned the cover of the electronics unit( a loud name for a couple of three resistors).
Each section is flat. Cut upper, lower channel. Vertically connected by veins: a small amount of oil seeps through. In the lower channel, the base to the electronic unit is the heater. Difference: there is no thermostat in the water heater. But the fuse is bolted to the base. Low temperature - 61.5 degrees( although the element does not apply to the working part of the heating element).Thermal fuse wrapped with rubber gasket, additionally protected by heat-resistant cloth: when the oil boils, the temperature will be low.
Important! At a temperature of 63 degrees pasteurization is carried out. The limit is chosen to burn out the bacteria heater.
Thermostat with a fixed response temperature of 80 degrees Celsius leaned against the metal side( with two screws) against the central vertical vein of the first section. No matter how you set the modes with the upper thermostat, or press the power buttons of the heating section sections, the limit will not be exceeded.
The myth of the hot surface of oil heaters is devoid of truth. Maximum - 80 degrees Celsius. Then an emergency shutdown occurs with hysteresis( reverse switching on at 65 degrees Celsius).
Control of the temperature of the oil heater
Started with emergency modes for a reason. When repairing leaks, choosing cold welding, you need to know the temperature conditions( operating conditions of the glued joint).Let us turn to the main characteristics of the oil heater. TEN consists of two unequal branches: are included together or separately. Provides three temperature modes of operation, differing in heat dissipation. Switching is provided by two buttons located at the top of the electronic unit of the oil heater.
There is a thermostat under the control panel. Does not control the emergency mode - is represented by a customizable bimetallic plate that sets the room temperature for heating with a heating element. The response temperature is not high, as in an emergency - 40 - 60 degrees Celsius, even lower. Due to the rotation of the screw, changing the plate tension, the response temperature changes in the right direction:
- Pressing the buttons, change the speed of heating the oil, heater, room.
- Turning up the thermostat, we seek to turn off the device at the right time.
Avoid permanent instrument clicks at night — turn on the minimum mode. During the day, use the device to the fullest to quickly obtain heat.
What breaks in an oil heater
The tank is filled with heat-resistant oil by 85 - 90 percent. The air gap is left to compensate for the thermal expansion of the oil - the appropriate configuration of the body is chosen by the accordion. When refueling, choose transformer oil - do not mix varieties. Now we know the possible elements of failure - proceed to repair.
Familiar with the situation of a leaky tank: worked, worked - flowed. In the morning, the oil was on the floor, the tank was empty, the device had turned off, the thermal fuse had burned out. It is worth using cold welding. FastFix for metal keeps temperatures from minus to +120 degrees Celsius. Take out the frost with care patched, you can use at home. FastFix for metal contains magnetic iron filings - the fastest material from the line. The master will have three minutes - in an hour the material will dry.
FastFix holds the temperature, is sold in the form of a pencil: a polymerizing composition of the class of epoxy adhesives. The resin outer shell protects the internal hardener. Cut the composition of the pencil in the right quantity, knead with wet hands, apply in place. After hardening, trim the result with sandpaper, a grinder, preferably with a wet knife until it is completely set. There is a lot of breakdown places - do not forget to wear rubber gloves. Wet hands before use.
has broken. The breakdown place must be cleaned of paint, rust and oil before applying the patch. Sand with fine sandpaper for tight grip. If the hole in the channel section, try to leave a little room for the current of oil. According to the manufacturer, the patches hold the pressure( for the master is important), or check with the manufacturer. Marks of liquid paint a lot, pick yourself. FastFix, which does not require dilution, spreading on the plastic with a spatula is a good choice.
Sometimes there is a need to repair the oil heater with burned heating elements. Breakdown identification: ring both branches with the switches turned off, the plug is pulled out of the socket. If the resistance is tens of ohms, the integrity of the core is in order. A short circuit or a break indicates: a breakdown here. TEN rolled inward - will have to pull out. New should be similar to the previous one. The tube is used steel, not copper, to avoid electrochemical corrosion.
Before dismantling, turn the oil heater on its side: the hole must be higher to save oil. When replacing, use cold spot welding. Before installation, check the insulation resistance of the heater. Not less than 20 megohms figure( according to the rules, they are measured with a 500 V shaper).One contact of the tester is connected to the spiral, the second to the case. The operation is done twice, one per branch.
Understood the repair of non-included oil heater. In the absence of voltage on the heating element to blame:
- Emergency or operating thermostats.
- Thermal fuse.
In the latter case, the voltage will not be on a single branch of the heating element. Constant clicks when working publishes a working thermostat on a bimetallic plate with adjustable screw. If the oil heater is working before the emergency shutdown - try to look from here.