Content
- Required Tools
- Surface preparation
- Cleaning the walls from the old coating
- Wall plastering
- Priming of the surface
Wallpaper gluing is a situation, if not all, in my life, then every second. This wallpaper is now the most popular material in the decoration of walls, despite the fact that the choice of possible materials is more than wide. Most often, the wallpaper is glued on its own, and, it would seem, there is no easier task in the construction business than this. But it is necessary to take into account also some nuances and cunnings, so that the finished surface would rejoice and be a source of pride.
Required Tools
To paste wallpaper, in addition to the wallpaper itself, you will need a number of other tools, including:
- spatula with a width of 30-40 cm and a corner spatula for applying putty;
- capacity for the preparation of putty;
- paint and varnish bath for glue and for priming;
- paint roller for primer application;
- Roulette to measure the right amount of wallpaper;
- Scissors for cutting the wallpaper strip of the required length;
- a paint knife for cutting off excess parts of wallpaper;
- Roller or brush to apply glue to the wall or wallpaper;
- a bucket for the preparation of glue;
- plumb-line to smoothly glue wallpaper strips;
- a pencil to mark on the wall the level at which you will be guided while sticking;
- wallpaper presser spatula to level the wallpaper immediately after gluing;
- a soft rag or sponge to wipe off excess glue from the wallpaper;
- roller for joints of wallpaper - it can be used for rolling joints, so that they are as visible as possible;
- stepladder - it will be convenient to glue the wallpaper near the ceiling.
Surface preparation
In all the process of gluing wallpaper, it is the preparation of the surface that is almost the most important stage, because, as it were, professionally and neatly you will not paste the wallpaper, if the surface was crooked, then the aesthetic result is not to wait accounted for. Therefore, it is important that the surface of the walls is flat and dry - it is easy to do, following the recommendations.
Cleaning the walls from the old coating
If the wallpaper is not applied to walls in a new building that have not been trimmed before, you will have to tinker with the task of removing the old cover, and this is sometimes not as simple as it seems.
Removing old wallpaper
Glue a new layer of wallpaper over the old is not recommended, because in this case, both layers can be peeled off at any time. In addition, if the old layer has a bright pattern, and the new wallpaper is monochrome and thin, it is clear what the result will be - the previous layer will remind you. Based on the rule that the wallpaper will hold better and look at a perfectly flat surface, we come to the conclusion that it is better to get rid of a layer of old wallpaper.
Preliminarily better floor the floor with a thick plastic wrap and stock upa set of toolsin the form of a bucket with warm water or a liquid for dissolving wallpaper paste, several spatulas of different shapes, a roller and a sponge. In the lightest case, after the wallpaper is moistened with water, they will begin to recede slightly from the surface of the wall, and removing them with a spatula will not be very difficult. Instead of water in more severe situations, you can use special compounds that dissolve the glue faster. Instead of such compositions in warm water, you can add a dishwashing detergent, a conditioner for laundry or other means that can affect the glue. Wide spatulas will help podyevat wallpaper in open places, but the angular will cope in more difficult to access.
In some casesmay be neededeven a knife and wallpaper tiger - a roller with several needles, thanks to which you can poddevat and shoot pieces of old wallpaper. The most difficult case is considered wallpaper, pasted with PVA - these can not be removed even with the help of special compositions, so here it is necessary to work either with sandpaper or with a drill with a nozzle in the form metal brush. The home steam generator can also come to the rescue.
Removal of the old paint layer
Removing the old layer of paint - a task much more complicated than removing old wallpaper. After all, a smooth and painted surface is not the best option for gluing wallpapers. Often, to simplify the task, many simply sand the painted surface or put on it primer, but in this way there are no guarantees that the wallpaper will not peel off after a couple of months or through year.
Therefore, it is better to be safe and still try to remove a layer of paint. Can be usedbuilding hair dryer, which will heat the paint, and it eventually melt and bubble, then it can be carefully removed with a spatula. This method is quite laborious and not very safe, since harmful chemicals evaporate.
There is also an alternative option: usegrinding machineor grinders with certain nozzles, but this is a very dusty occupation, so you first need to open the windows and close all the doors to other rooms, as well as cracks, if any.
You can use a special wash - often this is one of the most effective ways to remove old paint. But here you also need to remember your own safety and wear gloves, goggles and a respirator. After all the work done to remove the paint layer, the surface is cleaned of dust and dirt with a rag and water, and allow it time to dry.
If none of these options does not help, then you can use a concrete-contact primer, which promotes stronger adhesion of wallpaper.
Wall plastering
At this stage, you need to achieve a perfectly flat surface. Before you start puttying, assess the condition of the wall. If it has only some irregularities, some experts recommend saving at this stage and applying a layer of putty only in the most problematic places. But this method is doubtful, so it is better not to be greedy and plaster the entire surface. For this you will need a few spatulas - the usual for corner areas and the putty itself.
Apply it better in two thin layers, otherwise the stripes from the spatula will be very noticeable. And so, it is better to putty first in the vertical direction, and then in the horizontal. Another option is to do everything diagonally. For these works, a spatula with a width of 30-40 cm, which needs to be kept at an angle of 25-30 degrees, is perfect. Do not forget about the corner trowel.
When the layer is dry, you can go to sanding it with sandpaper and to eliminate the dust that has appeared. Then apply a finishing coat of putty to smooth even the smallest irregularities, this layer is also sanded.
Priming of the surface
The finishing stage before directly gluing the wallpaper is the priming of the walls. There are many priming solutions themselves, and each of them is designed for certain conditions and surface. And if you consider that many recommend to carry out priming just a dilute solution of wallpaper paste, then the options become even greater. So,the main types of primer are:
- acrylic primers can be safely called universal, as they are suitable for almost any surface and also quickly dry and do not have an unpleasant odor;
- alkyd already very specific - they are great for wooden surfaces, and dry up about 15 hours;
- mineral is good for priming the surface of concrete and brick, but the drying time will depend on the surface itself and the specific composition;
- primers of deep penetration can additionally strengthen loose or porous surfaces, penetrating to a depth of up to 2 cm. They, like many other types of formulations, can contain special additives that will prevent the formation of mold or the development of microorganisms;
- primer with coloring properties - such compositions give the surface a certain shade. Especially popular are white primers, which form a uniform color and are often used if you need to paste thin wallpaper.
The primer can be sold in ready-made or dry form. As for the choice, then you need to build on the type of wallpaper and surface, and consultants in construction stores should advise you the best option. If you get a primer in dry form, then before preparing it, you need to carefully study the instruction, which indicates the proportions and consumption per 1 m2.
Applying a primer is not difficult - you need either a roller, or a brush, or a nebulizer. For additional convenience, you can use a telescopic bar to reduce the number of movements around the room with a stepladder and to simplify access to the most distant and difficult places.
Preparation of glue
Glue is often attached to a specific type of wallpaper, but in its absence, pick up a suitable in the construction shop problems will not cause. Instructions for its preparation are indicated on each package, and as a rule, it is required to dissolve the powder in a certain amount of water, stirring it all, and after a while stir it again for a while, then glue ready. However, some experts recommend adding a little PVA glue in the composition to increase the reliability of gluing wallpaper.
It is worth noting that for vinyl wallpaper use a special glue, for non-woven and paper, you can use glue for vinyl or for non-woven wallpaper. But for vinyl it is better not to use glue, intended for gluing non-woven wallpaper. In this case, you can choose such an option for glue, so that it still prevents the formation of mold and fungus.
Preparing wallpapers
Before sticking it is necessary to deal with the wallpaper: cut into strips, calculate how they will be placed on the wall, etc. If the wallpaper they can immediately be cut into strips, and the length should be 5-7 cm more than the height of the walls - the excess after drying is cut off with a knife. If there is a picture on the wallpaper, then there will be more work, since you will have to compare all the bands and cut off the surplus beforehand.
Wallpaper gluing
Glue the wallpaper from the corner of the room, and if the wallpaper is glued overlap, it is better to start from the corner that is closer to the window so that the borders are less visible. But since now more and more used wallpaper sticker, then you can start from any angle. Immediately it is worth noting that the angles in apartments are rarely perfectly smooth, so it is worth to retreat about width of a strip of wall-paper, and by means of a plumbline to draw to itself an equal line on which it is necessary to be guided at поклейке. Before each new segment, this procedure is recommended to be repeated.
The glue is appliedeither on the wallpaper itself, or on the walls - it all depends on the basis. So, if this wallpaper is paper-based, then glue is applied to them, it is left for 10-12 minutes (depending on the instructions) so that they are impregnated, and only then they start to stick. If wallpaper on a non-woven base, they practically do not absorb the glue, so there is no need to apply glue directly to them - you can use a dry method.
If the glue is applied to the wallpaper, then it should be done from the center to the edges, while the edges need to be well missed. But do not allow the glue to get on the front side. If it is applied to a wall, the width of the application strip should be somewhat larger than the width of the wallpaper web.
Wallpaper glues from top to bottom, smoothing the roller from the center to the edges like "herringbone so that excess air would leave, and gluing would be most effective. If the glue is slightly protruding, it's okay - just gently remove the excess with a damp sponge or cloth.
The next sheet of wallpaper to be glued in exactly the same way: draw a landmark with a plumb, glue, smoothes, etc. And if the wallpaper has some kind of drawing, then take care of it in advance coincided.
Difficulties can arisewhen pasting corners, window apertures and sockets. Angles are best not to cover with solid wallpaper, otherwise after drying, they are likely to peel off. Here it is better to use the overlapping on about -5 cm, and even if the whole leaf is covered with a solid sheet, it is better to cut it and glue it over.
As for the sockets and switches located on the wall, they should be de-energized beforehand, then remove the front side. The canvas is glued from above, and above it it must hang freely, so that it would be easier to cut a certain hole with a sharp knife. Then the cloth is glued to the end and the sides are installed. The segments of the walls that are above and below the window and doorways are pasted after the gluing of the entire stripes. Wallpaper for painting is better to start painting, when they dry out, i.e. at least for the next day.
The entire process of gluing is best carried out without drafts to reduce the likelihood of air bubbles forming under the wallpaper. At the same time, during drying, it is also necessary to ensure their absence, therefore, all the windows and doors should be kept closed.
Eliminate possible defects
Even if you follow all of the above rules, there is no guarantee that some defects can then be detected. Here are the main possible problems and ways to solve them:
- emergenceblisters or wrinkles.Such a defect can appear if the glue on the wallpaper was not sufficiently sustained, the wallpaper was poorly smoothed out, or the glue was very long soh. The best way out of this situation is the re-gluing, but this is too radical. If the wallpaper is not too thick you can try to make a puncture and smooth the surface: if the result suits you, then the problem is solved;
- wallpaper peel offnear the eaves or plinth - a consequence of insufficient gluing them around the edges. In this case, everything is very simple: gently bend the wallpaper, apply glue on them or on the wall (depending on which wallpaper was used), and press it well, smoothing the surface;
- visible seams- Another problem, they appear when the wallpaper, glued on, glued in the wrong order, as if against the light. You can try to gently peel off a piece of wallpaper and re-paste in the right direction, or just put up with what happened;
- thickened suturealso corrected radically - by gluing wallpaper, so it is worth knowing in advance that thick wallpaper overlap is unnecessary;
- and, of course, if you decide to save time and money, hoping that it's you who will be all right and pasted new wallpaper on old, not enough to level the surface, etc., then the final look of the walls may not be very please. We'll have to do everything again and according to the rules, sosave it right.
