Currant transplantation in the spring and autumn to a new place

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In garden practice, situations often arise that require the transfer of currants to a new place, .Most often this is due to an error during site selection, depletion of the soil under the bush or redevelopment of the site.

Transplanting an adult shrub to another place - is very stressful for the plant , which is accompanied by soreness and often leads to its death.

Therefore, the procedure should be carried out taking into account the biological features and the annual currant cycle.

Contents

  • When is it better to transplant currants to a new place: in the fall or spring, in which month?
  • Stages of proper transplantation of an adult bush
    • Choosing and preparing a site
    • Preparing a bush of red currant and black currant
    • Can be transplanted to another place!
  • Care after

When is it better to transplant currants to a new place: in the fall or spring, in which month?

Which month is more favorable? The dates of currant transplantation are completely dependent on the climatic conditions of the region.

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In regions with a severe winter with a decrease in air temperature below 30 ° C, spring transfer is preferable.

But at the same time, it is important to take into account the peculiarities of the annual cycle of the crop, which enters the vegetation early. After the start of sap flow, the shrub will receive a double load, trying to root and at the same time increasing the green mass.

Spring transfer is carried out after the soil is completely thawed, the temperature rises to + 1 ° C and before the kidneys swell. This limits the time of transplantation, reduces the time for quiet rooting to three weeks.

Currant transfer time is completely dependent on the climatic conditions of the region.

Favorable factors for currant autumn transplant are much longer. This is a stable temperature until the first frost, which gives time to adapt the roots to a new place.

In addition, in the cells of the currant in the fall, there are much more nutrients and the downward current prevails, which contribute to the rapid healing of wounds of the roots and give strength for recovery.

Therefore, in the middle and southern regions of horticulture, bushes prefer to transplant in the fall. It is important to determine the most accurate dates, until the first frost should be at least three weeks.

The ideal time for transplantation is the period between September 10-15, it is at this time that the most active growth of the intake roots is noted. This factor significantly increases the percentage survival rate of currants.

Stages of proper transplantation of an adult bush

The basis of a successful transplant of an adult shrub is the correct choice of location, preparation of the soil and shrubs.

Selection and preparation of the site

Red and white currants - thermophilic plants .For them, select leveled areas, oriented to the south or south-west direction. In such areas, the soil is heated by sunlight, well aerated and water does not stagnate.

Black and green-fruited currant less whimsical plants. Good indicators of stable yield are observed when planting on the slopes of the northern or northeastern direction. Short-term shading is permissible.

The best currant precursors are tilled crops that help clean the area from rhizomatous weeds. These are potatoes, beets, corn, buckwheat and beans.

Unsuitable for growing lowland currants and closed hollows, where cold air stagnates and humidity is increased. This contributes to the development of fungal diseases and the emergence of root rot.

The chosen place is dug in early spring to a depth of 40 cm with fertilization per 1 m2:

  • compost or 10 kg manure;
  • double superphosphate 10 g;
  • potassium chloride 7 g.
In spring or autumn a pit is being prepared for transplanting: 40 cm deep and 70 cm wide, filled with

substrate. For the spring transplant site is prepared in the fall.

In determining the size of the pit, they are guided by the volume of the shrub. In most cases, the suffices a depth of 40 cm and a width of 60 cm. .For tall and remontant varieties, a depth of 60-70 cm is required. The distance between bushes is at least 1.5 meters.

After digging a hole 1/3 is filled with the substrate of mixed components:

  • top layer of garden soil from the pit;
  • rotted manure or compost 10 kg;
  • superphosphate 300 g( for black currant) 200 g( red, white);
  • wood ash 400 g or potassium sulfate 30 g.

For red and white currants, a hole is dug deeper than and at the bottom a drainage layer of expanded clay or broken brick is formed at most 15% of the total volume.

After this, the pit is poured with 1-2 buckets of water. Before the currant transplant inside the pit, all conditions will be created for the comfortable adaptation of the roots.

The substrate is structured and impregnated with moisture, and the minerals and organic matter introduced will take the forms that are easy for the plant to assimilate and will not cause the roots to burn.

Currant Transplant:

Preparation of Red Currant Bush and Black Currant

During transplantation, the volume of bush roots will decrease significantly, making it harder to feed the vegetative mass. Therefore, currants for 2-3 weeks before the upcoming event pruned , leaving only areas that are significant for fruiting and development. When autumn planting pruning can be done in the spring, before the buds swell.

At the base of the shrub, there is a branch zone. From it grow strong side shoots, at a height of 30-40 cm begins fruiting zone, characterized by weak branching. The shoots here are short, but with developed flower buds, so most of the crop is located on them.

At the top of the branches, fruit buds are also formed in large quantities, which are noticeably weaker and produce only small berries. Therefore, the main branches of the shrub cut by 1/3, without fear of harm to the harvest of the next season. After pruning, the average height of the currant should be 45-50 cm.

The productivity of the currant fruit is 5 years, it makes no sense to leave outdated branches on the bush there is no .The development of currants impede pups, suckers and dried branches, they should also be removed.

Do not combine trimming bushes with transplant. This is a double load for the plant, which will distribute the forces for overgrowing wounds and adapting the roots to a new place. This can cause the death of currants.

Can be transplanted to another place!

When transplanting around the trunk circle, dig a groove 30-35 cm deep, stepping back 40 cm from the trunk. After that, gently pull the shrub at the base of the branches that hold the roots off with a bayonet.

For convenience of the event, currant branches are connected like the spindle. Additionally, it will protect against breakage of fruit branches. An excavated shrub is placed on a canvas to be transported to the landing site.

Further, inspect the roots, clean them from pests, cut off the dried and rotted areas of the .Carry out the procedure of disinfection, placing the roots of the plant in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate for 15 minutes.

Shrubs with healthy roots are transplanted without pretreatment.

At the bottom of the landing pit, forms a mound of the prepared substrate and spills with 1-2 buckets of water. After that, wait until the water is absorbed. Planting in too wet an environment will lead to excessive shrinkage of the shrub, which often causes improper development.

Also consider that the root shrub neck should remain 5 cm below the surface of the substrate.

When transplanting, it is necessary to take into account that the root neck of the shrub is 5 cm below the surface of the substrate

In relation to the cardinal points, currants are placed in the same way as before. Currant roots are distributed over the surface of the hill, preventing unnatural bends upward.

During the backfilling of the roots, the void , which often causes decay, is not formed. To do this, during the procedure, the shrub is periodically shaken.

The surface is being tamped and is forming a watering hole around the tree. Water( 20 l) is poured gradually, waiting for complete absorption. With this irrigation water completely covers the roots, increasing their contact with the soil.

After this, the stem near the trunk and the hole is mulched with peat, humus or soddy earth.

Care after

After transplanting the shrub will need the help of a gardener. The soil in the wheel circle is maintained in a constantly loose state .This is necessary to create the optimal balance of water and air for proper nutrition and respiration of the roots.

At the base of the shrub loosening is carried out to a depth of 5-6 cm, closer to the watering hole up to 15 cm.

In autumn, the shrub is prepared for winter:

  • clear the stem from plant residues;
  • lay a layer of mulch from peat or straw at least 15 cm in height;
  • cover up shtambik;
  • spray fungicides;
  • branches are collected to the center and tied with twine;
  • pull snow up to the bush.
The currants are prepared for winter: they clean the tree trunk from plant residues, the branches are harvested to the center and tied with string

In the first two weeks after planting, if there is no rain, will need regular watering every other day .So that the soil is moistened to 60 cm in depth.3-4 buckets of water are used for this.

The currants will not need additional feeding in the first year. After two weeks, irrigation periods are determined by the condition of the soil under the shrub.

Scattering the soil into small pieces after compression in the hand indicates the need for urgent watering. This indicator is oriented during the whole growing season.

Weakened shrubs are most attractive for pests and diseases , due to temporary loss of stability. Therefore, the task of the grower in this period is complete control over the currant, especially in the first year of development.

A can be assisted by insecticides and fungicides , which can be prepared from herbal ingredients or purchased ready-made preparations.

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