The washing machines of our grandmothers and mothers are very different from the ones we use now. If earlier the repair of washing machines with their own hands did not require special knowledge in mechanics and electronics, and for this it was enough to arm with pliers, a screwdriver and wrenches, then a modern washing machine is a device more than complicated. Therefore, the repair of imported washing machines requires prior preparation.
- Preparatory stage
- Frequent minor breakdowns and their repair
- Washing machine repair tools
- How to disassemble and prepare the car for repair
- Details parsing cars for repair (video)
Before you start repairing your home assistant, it is recommended that you study at least the initial lessons about the causes of breakdowns, their occurrence and elimination. Even such compact models as the baby washing machine sometimes break down, and the causes of malfunctions are the same for all models.
There are only two decisions to start repair - call the master or repair the device yourself. The first option relieves you of the responsibility for repairs, but costs money. DIY repair is free, but its implementation requires experience and some basic knowledge.
Frequent minor breakdowns and their repair
1. The machine does not show any signs of life
To carry out a quick DIY repair, follow our recommendations:
- You may have chosen the wrong program. Check the settings are correct.
- The loading door is not closed. There may be a defect in the seal (the cuffs of the washing machine are leaky), or usual carelessness.
- No voltage is supplied to the unit. If you will repair the semiautomatic device with your own hands, first check the contacts of the plug and socket, the fuses and the machine on the electrical panel.
2. No water enters the tank
- Check the position of the valves, open them.
- Hose bend. Remove it, rinse, straighten and reconnect.
- A clogged filter can be caused by a broken valve or severe contamination. Here, do-it-yourself repair will be like this:
- wash the filter, chamber, or replace the valve;
- check the position of the tube on the level control;
- the end of the tube may just become rougher. Trim the end of the tube and fasten it again. Blow into the handset - if everything works, you will hear a click from the operation of the regulator switch;
- the circuit breaker itself can be checked for a short circuit using a tester.
We’ll talk more about cleaning the filter here: https://sovetexpert.ru/pochistit-filtr-v-stiralnoj-mashine.html.
3. The drum is filling up slowly
- Hose blockage or pinch. Rinse and straighten.
- Filter clogged. Remove and wash the filter.
- Weak pressure in the water supply - the supply valve may not be fully open. If the water pressure is low constantly, install a pump in the water supply system or equip a reserve tank under the ceiling.
4. TEN does not work
- The water level regulator is out of order. Here, the repair of the washing machine is to replace the part.
- Scale on the heating element due to hard water slows down its heating. Remove the heater and a hard brush to remove plaque. You can soften the lime layer with vinegar.
- Possible oxidation or weakening of electrical contacts. Your independent repair consists in cleaning and tightening the joints.
- The thermal relay adjustment that measures the water level and turns off the heater has failed or failed. DIY repair of the module is usually difficult.
5. Unprogrammed unit stop during washing
- Check if the programmer knob is installed correctly.
- There is no voltage. See clause 1.3.
- The hose is clogged. See paragraph 2.2 or 3.1.
- Blockage or breakdown of the pump. After removing it, check the rotation of the impeller. Remove the rotor, clean all parts. Check the stator with a tester for a short circuit. Replace the pump if necessary.
- Clogged or broken valve. Clean it or change to a new one.
- Air intake through the exhaust hose. Check the connection between the water supply and the exhaust hose.
6. Additional possible reasons for repair
- Burned out TEN. Only a replacement.
- The timer in the programming device does not work. Self-repair of washing machine modules of this type is hardly possible.
- The engine does not work. Do-it-yourself quick preventive maintenance and repair of the washing machine engine is as follows: remove from motor belt, set the washing machine control module in spin mode and close all panels. Next, turn on the voltage and check if the engine is running. If it does not work, check the engine and draw appropriate conclusions about repair or replacement.
7. The drum does not spin
- Perhaps you just set the washing machine control module to pause.
- The drive belt has flown. Put on the belt and adjust the tension.
- The latch on the loading door has broken. Perhaps she was clogged.
8. The pump does not pump water
- The programmer is paused or in deferred washing mode.
- Electric motor burned out. Only installing a new engine will help.
- Clogged or kinked hose. See paragraph 2.2 or 3.1.
- Pump filter clogged. Rinse it.
- The pump itself is clogged. A simple DIY repair of washing machines in this case is such that you need to dismantle it and eliminate the cause of the blockage.
- remove the clamps from the pump hoses and clean them;
- check the rotation of the impeller. If for this you have to remove the mounting bolts - mark how they stood before, so as not to confuse;
- clean the impeller chamber;
- flush the pump and collect it.
9. Water level switch out of order
Such repair of washing machine modules can be only one thing - replacement.
10. Poor electrical connection
If there are oxides, remove them, tighten or renew the contacts.
11. The timer does not work
Only a replacement.
12. Water leak
- The hose clamp is loose. Tighten it, if it does not help, replace it with a new one.
- If a crack is detected in the hose, then self-repair is a simple hose replacement.
- The door seal has worn out or has moved. It is necessary to replace the gasket with a new one.
- The release hose popped out of the riser. Insert it firmly into place.
- Clogged sewage system. It is necessary to clean, preferably the entire system.
- Inlet hose disconnected. Check the clamp on the clamp, replace if necessary.
13. The machine makes extraneous sounds and noises
- Foreign objects have fallen, most often coins. Check pockets before washing.
- The drive belt is slipping. Tension or belt replacement will help.
- The bearing in the drum crumbled. Bearing replacement has no alternative.
14. The machine vibrates a lot
- Overloaded with linen. Take out the unnecessary, in the future, follow the loading rate.
- The laundry is not evenly packed in the drum. Wash very heavy things separately, try to properly distribute things on the drum.
- The machine is standing on an uneven floor. It is necessary to adjust the legs of the unit.
- The drum suspension spring broke. Fasten in place or replace.
- The ballast of the tank is poorly fixed. Tighten the ballast bolts. If the plates burst, replace them.
15. The car door does not open
- The control unit of the washing machine is activated late or the lock switch is out of order. Self-repair of the washing machine is not possible.
- All water does not leave the tank. Check water supply, pump, hoses for blockage. Check the correct program selection, restart the program.
- Replacing the bearing in the washing machine do it yourself: instructions with a video and a detailed description.
- The answer to the question: "How to disassemble the drum of the washing machine (non-separable and ordinary)", you will find here.
- Reasons why the washing machine does not draw water into the drum may be different, but all of them can be eliminated!
Washing machine repair tools
If during the diagnostic process you realized that self-repair is inevitable, and you are going to do it yourself, then these tools will come in handy:
- Flat and Phillips screwdriver or screwdriver.
- Spanners 8 x 10 and 17 x 19.
- Service hook.
How to disassemble and prepare the car for repair
The general construction of imported washing machines is divided into “western” and “eastern” principles.
The frame in the "eastern" version is welded from thin-walled stamping, the "western" version is a body made of metal profile. Therefore, the principle of disassembly is different for them.
In the "eastern" version of the panel you need to disassemble in a strictly defined sequence, and the front panel is removed last. The control unit remains in place. The tank moves forward, but this is almost never necessary - you can work with it from any side.
In the "western" model, the tank is pulled up, for this it is necessary to remove the front bracket of the frame and move the programmer to the side. The control unit is hinged, the fixing screws are located under the detergent box. To carry out preventive maintenance and repair of the programmer, you need to remove it. To do this, unscrew the bolts, turn the unit 90 ° and remove it from the hinges. The programmer wires will interfere, so the unit is suspended on the service hook, after which you can conduct an inspection of the insides, do-it-yourself repairs or preventive maintenance.
Details parsing cars for repair (video)
In the video below, you can familiarize yourself with the intricacies of disassembly and repair. In it, you will receive recommendations on resolving the most common breakdowns, malfunctions and tips for adjusting some nodes. Minor repairs can always be done independently.
Most often, the breakdown is so small that you can repair the washing machines yourself than take the unit to a service center. The main thing is to find the reason. But sometimes the breakdown can be so hidden or larger that it is better to entrust the repair to a professional.
In contact with