How to independently adjust an electric trimmer: frequent breakdowns

The electric trimmer replaces the conventional scythe. Today, most city dwellers do not even know how to properly use a "rare" instrument. A modern person does not need this, because he has an electrical analogue. But if an ordinary braid had to simply be sharpened from time to time, then with a power tool, things are more complicated. The equipment requires some maintenance, and in the event of a malfunction, repairs can lead to large expenses. However, it does not always make sense to carry a broken tool to the workshop: often you can deal with a breakdown on your own.

The device and principle of operation of the trimmer

To understand what exactly can break down in an electric braid, first you need to figure out how it works.

An electric trimmer usually consists of the following elements:

• housing with a motor inside;
• detachable rod;
• coil with protection;
• attachment of the shoulder strap.

The current is supplied to the power unit through the connector on the housing to which the cable is connected. The bar is hollow inside - it acts as a protective shell for the flexible shaft, which transmits torque from the motor to the trimmer coil. The handle, located on the body, has a button, when pressed, the device turns on.

The described design is considered classic. However, there are versions of the tool in which the motor is located in the lower part near the coil, as well as battery versions.

Do-it-yourself electric trimmer repair: common causes of breakdowns

One of the scenarios in which the tool fails is mowing a heavily neglected area. In this case, increased loads affect the equipment and the power unit often fails. Damage to bearings or spool is also possible.

And when work is carried out in rainy weather, electrical equipment can simply be closed. Also, do not forget about a certain resource of individual tool nodes that are not designed for constant use. The device requires a timely inspection with the replacement of worn parts.

In some cases, repairs can be made independently, without the involvement of third-party specialists, the cost of which is often considerable.

Repair start button

If the tool does not react in any way to attempts to turn it on, there are two possible malfunctions - a break in the cable inside the handle or failure of the power button.

Important! Make sure the device is disconnected from the mains if it is a fixed type. In the case of the cordless version of the tool, first disconnect the power terminals, and only then proceed with the repair.

In order to understand what exactly the breakdown is, you need to disassemble the handle.

Having gained access to the inside, you should, armed with a multimeter, measure the resistance of the button. If it is missing after pressing, the button must be replaced.

You also need to check the contacts of the connection of the power cable with the contact group. Often there is no need for such a measurement, since a break can be detected with the naked eye. In this case, it must be eliminated by soldering.

In the absence of a multimeter, the same work can be done using an indicator screwdriver. To do this, after disassembling the handle body, the power cable is connected to the network and the presence of a phase before and after the button is checked with a screwdriver. If the button comes to zero, the plug in the outlet can be turned over and the measurements can be repeated.

Attention! Be very careful when checking for phase presence in this way. There is a possibility of electric shock!

Checking the electric motor

If the button and the cable supplying the tool turn out to be serviceable, you should proceed to diagnostics of the power unit. To do this, you need to disassemble the case in which it is located. Usually you just need to unscrew a few bolts or screws and remove the cover.

The first step is to check the condition of the collector brushes. Wear on this unit can lead to unstable operation or to a complete stop of the engine. If the brushes are in satisfactory condition, check the motor winding for a short circuit.

For this operation, it is necessary to completely remove the engine, and then, in mode, check all collector plates for breakage. The device should not show significant deviations in measurements.

The second check is the “ringing” of the rotor winding to ground. To do this, you need to connect one contact of the multimeter to any collector plate, and the other to the rotor ground. In this case, the resistance measurement mode must be greater than 1 MΩ. If there is no short circuit, the instrument will show a very high value.

If, according to the results of these checks, all parameters turned out to be normal, it is necessary to measure the resistance of the stator winding. The readings should be the same as for the rotor. If not, then the problem lies in the stator.

If there is an interturn short circuit in the motor, it will not be possible to diagnose it in this way. However, this problem can be identified by watching the trimmer in action. An indirect sign of such a malfunction will be a decrease in the operating power and overheating of the equipment.

When, as a result of diagnostics, it became clear that the engine "burned out", it will be easier to notice it on a new one. In the vast majority of cases, rewinding repairs will cost the same as a new power unit.

If a thermal relay is installed on the motor, it will cut off the power if it overheats. If the problem is in the failure of the relay itself, this can be detected using the same multimeter or tester. When the engine is cold and in good condition, the relay must pass current.

Mechanical faults

This type of problem can be attributed to the breakage of the flexible shaft. This is easy to recognize - the motor is running and the line spool does not rotate.

The cause of the breakdown is unscrupulous care of the tool, which consists in the timely lubrication of the inside of the rod. Without the right amount of lubricant, the shaft will be exposed to excessive friction and breakage will be a natural result.

This breakdown is corrected by replacing the shaft, which can be removed by disconnecting the upper part of the trimmer from the bar. If the second part of the shaft is not removable, it may be necessary to disconnect the lower part as well.

When installing a new shaft, it must be pre-lubricated.

Such a malfunction can only occur with a classic arrangement of parts. In devices where the power unit is located at the bottom, there is no flexible shaft. However, with this arrangement, the role of the transmission mechanism is played by the bearing located on the motor shaft closer to the place of torque transmission. In this situation, the bearing simply needs to be replaced with a new one.