Ventilation pipes on the roof of the house: arrangement of the outlet of the exhaust pipe through the roof

When planning the installation of ventilation, you probably thought over and decided how best to install ventilation pipes on the roof of the house. This must be done correctly: firstly, so as not to damage the roof and prevent leaks; second, that the output provides maximum thrust.

We will tell you how to properly ventilate to ensure regular air exchange. We will acquaint you with modern and easy-to-install solutions offered by manufacturers to the domestic consumer. We will show you how best to do this work yourself.

Roof exit options

The most widespread are two options for the exit of ventilation pipes to the roof:

• Application of ready-made ventilation outlets (prefabricated);
• Direct outlet of ventilation pipes to the roof with their sealing with a factory-made pass-through element.

The choice of method depends on the design features of the house and the roof, the requirements for the appearance and the available budget.

It is strongly discouraged to make a pass-through knot yourself if you do not have sufficient experience and tools. Due to errors inherent in beginners, he will not be able to ensure the tightness of the pipe passage. The result leads to wetting and subsequent destruction of the roof, rafter frame and insulation.

Ready ventilation outlets

Roofing manufacturers are committed to ensuring that roofs built with the materials they produce look beautiful and serve their owners for a long time. Therefore, along with roofing materials, they manufacture parts for arranging the passage of ventilation pipes through a building structure.

Such outlets are produced for a wide variety of flexible, metal and ceramic tiles, slate and ondulin, roll polymer and bitumen coatings for flat roofing systems.

The advantages of such exits are:

• Great appearance;
• Color that matches the color of the roof;
• Availability of seals and built-in thermal insulation;
• Fine vertical adjustment;
• Outlet-compatible baffle and bushing assembly;
• Easy installation.

Such exits are mounted very simply, so an amateur in the roofing business can do it. The only thing to consider: the work will be carried out at a height, therefore, the necessary safety measures must be observed.

If the installation is made in a metal roofing, then the first step is to mark and make a hole in the roofing material using the template that usually comes with the kit. Please note that in the place where the hole will be made, there should not be battens and rafters under the roofing sheets, otherwise the pipe will not work.

Cut a hole for ventilation passage assembly the easiest way is to use a small grinder of 115-125 mm, although metal tile manufacturers recommend using metal scissors.

When the hole is ready, if there is a waterproofing membrane in the roof, then a hole must also be cut in it, into which the sealant should be fixed to the sealant. Then apply sealant to the bushing and screw it on with self-tapping screws.

Next, a ventilation outlet must be inserted into the passage element, designed for arranging ventilation pipes on the roof. It is necessary to set it in a vertical position according to the level and fix it with self-tapping screws.

In the attic space, it is necessary to connect the ventilation outlet to the ventilation pipe, which must be fastened to the wall in the attic using clamps or a metal frame.

In the same way, factory-made ventilation outlets are installed on roofs made of ceramic tiles, corrugated board, ondulin or slate.

If the ventilation outlet is planned to be installed in a roof made of soft tiles, then along with the above method installation over the roofing material, the ventilation outlet can also be installed during the installation of the roof under the sheets shingles.

To do this, a pass-through flange and protection cut from the waterproofing carpet are fixed to the bitumen mastic and nails to the base of the roof. Subsequently, soft tiles are mounted on top of it. This method provides excellent sealing.

As you can see, there is nothing difficult in installing a factory ventilation outlet for any type of roof, and the end result exceeds all expectations in terms of beauty and reliability.

The only limitation in this case is the height of the standard outlet, which ranges from 300 mm to 700 mm. This makes the factory outlet only applicable if it will be located close to the ridge. Only in this case it will not fall into the zone of the wind support.

It is impossible not to mention the ventilation outlets equipped with an exhaust fan.

Such an exit to the roof ventilation pipes allows you to provide reliable traction, independent of wind and temperature. It can even be installed in a wind-backed area where natural ventilation will not work. Due to the fact that the fan with an electric motor is located outside the house, it will not create extraneous noise inside the room.

Exiting the pipe through the bushing

If it becomes necessary to bring out a long ventilation pipe through the roof, a sleeve for the antenna passage, or simply to carry out installation with minimal costs, then a universal passage element is used, which received the name flash master.

Such a penetration is attached to the roofing material with the help of silicone and self-tapping screws, and at the junction of the sealant to the pipe it is pressed with a clamp for additional reliability.

If the hood is laid openly inside the premises, and not in the ventilation shaft, then it is necessary to somehow fix the ventilation pipe to the wall. This is best done with elastomer gasket clamps to reduce noise interference.

Suitable for pipes with a diameter of 6 mm to 467 mm and can be installed on any type of roof. In addition, such a pass-through unit can be made of both rubber and silicone, which can withstand temperatures up to 240^OWITH.

Advantages of using a universal bushing:

• Low price;
• Simple installation;
• Suitable for any roof;
• Suitable for all pipes with a diameter of up to 467 mm;
• Made in the color of the roof;
• Provides tightness and reliability.

Like the factory outlet, you can install a ventilation pipe with a pass-through element with your own hands, observing safety rules when working at height.

When using a pass-through element, one should not forget about the need to insulate the ventilation pipe and install a deflector or umbrella on it.

Where to place the ventilation outlet?

When arranging an exhaust outlet through the roof, it is important not only to ensure the tightness of the passage through the roofing cake, but also to choose the correct location. You also need to correctly determine the height of the exit, because the draft in the ventilation duct directly depends on it.

Firstly, it is better to make the place of ventilation exit through the roof as close to the ridge as possible.

This arrangement has several advantages:

• Most of the ventilation duct will pass through the attic, where there is no wind, and the temperature is always slightly higher than outside. Thanks to this, the layer of insulation on the pipe can be made thinner;
• The ventilation outlet located at the ridge has a minimum height above the roof surface, therefore it is resistant to wind gusts and does not require additional fasteners;
• A factory-made ventilation outlet can be used, which will give the roof additional aesthetics.

Don't worry. It is better to think carefully about how to make a sealed outlet of the ventilation pipe on the roof if it is not possible to install it close to the ridge. In this case, the passage simply needs to be additionally insulated and secured.

Secondly, in order not to get into the wind support zone with the pipe, which every house with a pitched roof has, the height of the ventilation pipe deflector should be:

• above the ridge of the roof by 0.5 m, if the exit is located no further than 1.5 m from the ridge;
• not below the ridge of the roof, if the exit is at a distance of 1.5 m to 3 m from the ridge;
• not below a line drawn at an angle of 10^O from the ridge to the horizon, if the ventilation outlet is located more than 3 m from the ridge;
• if the ventilation pipe is removed from the annex to the house, then its deflector should be located 0.5 m above the line drawn from the eaves of the roof of the main structure at an angle of 45^O to the horizon.

Providing the specified height above the roof is extremely important for any ventilation, and for natural ventilation it is vital.

If you neglect this rule, then the hood deflector will fall into the zone of wind support and in windy weather in in the best case, there will be no thrust, and in the worst case, reverse thrust will appear and air from the street will go into House.

How to fix a tall pipe?

If for some reason it is not possible to bring the ventilation outlet closer to the ridge, and the fulfillment of the requirement for wind support forces to make a very high pipe above the roof surface (more than 1.5-2 m), then the ventilation pipe is necessary additionally fix.

This must be done because the higher the pipe, the greater wind loads it is exposed to due to the larger blowing area. With strong gusts, the pipe can simply break in a place close to the passage through the roof.

There are several ways to securely fix the ventilation pipe to the roof:

• Stretch marks;
• Mows;
• Metal racks.

Depending on the design and height of the ventilation duct and roof, these methods of strengthening can be used together, for example, strengthening the ventilation outlet with a metal rack with subsequent fastening of it stretch marks.

Strengthening with stretchers

Stretchers are most often made of galvanized ropes, less often of thin chains.

In order to securely fix the ventilation outlet, it is required to install at least three guy wires. The angles between the stretch marks must be made as equal as possible, that is, 120^O, and it is better to install the braces to the pipe axis at an angle of 45^O.

To fasten the guy wires, a clamp with three lugs is installed on the pipe, and three anchors with rings in the roof or in other places. Threaded tensioners are used to tighten the cables, and screw clamps are used to make loops.

Stretch ropes are very easy to manufacture and install, and all the necessary materials are sold in any hardware store and are not expensive. Strengthening the ventilation pipe with stretch marks with your own hands is not difficult.

Fixing the position of the pipe with bevels

The slopes (rigid stretch marks) look like cable stretch marks, but differ from them in the principle of operation. Unlike cable guides, which work exclusively in tension and must be fastened in at least three places, the slopes are capable of working in compression, therefore, to strengthen the pipe with them, only two attachment points to roof.

Depending on the direction of the wind, the slopes will equally well withstand the wind load that compresses them, then stretches them. Thanks to this advantage, the slopes can be used in confined spaces, for example, if the ventilation duct comes out close to the eaves of the roof and the installation of three guy wires is not possible.

Cuttings are made, as a rule, from light metal profiles, painted to protect against corrosion. For attachment to the pipe, as well as with the guy wires, a clamp is used, and the slopes are attached to the base with anchors or other fasteners.

Unlike stretch marks, bevels do not need to be stretched. They are immediately manufactured to the required length and rigidly fixed to the pipe and roof to eliminate any vibrations. When choosing angles between bevels, as well as between bevels and a pipe, it is better to follow the same rules as with guy wires.

Construction of metal structures

Metal racks are used in cases where it is not possible to fix the braces with slopes on the roof or the pipe is so high that it is required not only to fix it, but also to strengthen it.

The most widely used are welded volumetric racks. Outwardly, they look like mobile communication towers and represent a welded structure that acts as a load-bearing frame for the pipe.

The use of such struts strengthens the pipe and allows it to be reliably held against wind loads in all directions. Making racks on your own is problematic, since this will require metal, tools and experience with welded geometric structures. It is better to order their manufacture in a locksmith shop.

If, nevertheless, there is a need or desire for self-production, then you will need:

• Smooth surface for welding so that the rack turns out to be straight;
• Tool: welding machine, mask, electrodes, angle grinder with cutting and cleaning discs;
• Materials. For small structures, a 40 corner and a 40 × 4 strip are suitable. You can also use profile pipes of various sections: 40 × 40, 40 × 20, 20 × 20;
• High quality primer paint for corrosion protection.

Structurally, the rack is made of two, three or four vertical corners of 40 or 40x40 profiles, which are interconnected by short sections of a strip or a profile of a smaller section at right angles or along diagonals.

The greatest strength is provided by the diagonal installation of the crossbars. However, for domestic use, the strength of the crossbars installed perpendicular to the posts is quite sufficient. At the point of attachment of the vertical element to the base, pads with holes for fasteners are welded to it.

Depending on the design of the rack, it is securely attached to the roof or wall, and the ventilation pipe is attached to it with clamps. The design is strong enough to withstand strong wind gusts.

However, it should be remembered that the stability of the metal rack primarily depends on the reliability of its fastening. to the base: the smaller the support area and the number of attachment points, the less wind force the rack can withstand.

Do I need to insulate the ventilation outlet?

The question of the need to insulate ventilation and, in particular, its exit to the roof is often asked by independent developers. The answer to it is unequivocal: insulation must be mandatory!

The ventilation outlet is outside and is exposed to negative temperatures, and the wind only speeds up the cooling process. Having frozen, the walls of the ventilation duct begin to cool the warm air passing through it from the room. As a result, the traction force is significantly reduced.

This creates two negative phenomena:

• If the warm air from the room goes up, trying to go outside, then after cooling from the walls it starts to go down again, creating counter-draft and turbulence, interfering with normal operation ventilation;
• The warm air removed from the premises contains vapors from human activity. Contacting the cold walls of the ventilation duct, this moisture turns into dew and drops back down the ventilation duct, creating excellent conditions for the development of mold fungi.

In extreme cold, the condensed moisture does not have time to drain inside and freezes at the very exit. The ventilation outlet opening is reduced and may freeze completely.

To avoid these problems, the ventilation outlet must be sufficiently insulated. The easiest way is to use factory-made ventilation outlets. The manufacturer makes the structure double-walled and lays insulation in it.

If the exit is arranged with ordinary plastic or metal ventilation pipes, then they can be insulated on their own. The best fit for these purposes is a tubular insulation made of foamed polyethylene (used for insulating sewage, water and heating pipes), rolled isolon or similar material.

It is conveniently applied by simple wrapping in several layers and fixed with reinforced tape. Polyethylene and izolon are not afraid of water and sunlight, and birds and insects do not show interest in them.

It is not necessary to use foil insulation: it costs much more, and the effect of the metal layer is unlikely to be noticeable. The main thing is to make a sufficient thickness of the insulation, which is recommended to be made at least 30 mm.

Mineral wool is also suitable for insulating the ventilation outlet. However, on top of it you will have to make a protective cover made of durable material (fiberglass, galvanized or plastic sheet, etc.) to protect it from wind, precipitation and birds. The most convenient for such purposes is mineral wool in rolls: it is simply wrapped around the pipe.

In addition, if you are thinking about how best to fix the ventilation pipe on the roof and at the same time insulate it immediately, the elements are perfect chimney sandwich. They are easy to install and equipped with a factory-installed insulation.

In addition, the chimneys have standard pass-through assemblies to ensure a tight connection, as well as standard deflectors and umbrellas to protect against precipitation and wind.

Another advantage of using chimneys for the manufacture of ventilation outlets is the ability to connect them with clamps under the braces for subsequent reliable fastening. And the service life of stainless steel chimney pipes as a ventilation duct is practically unlimited.

Typical assembly errors

Despite the seeming simplicity of the selection and installation of the ventilation outlet, errors are often made in this procedure, leading to unpleasant consequences:

• Poor sealing of the pass-through at the junction with the roof or insufficient number of self-tapping screws, as well as the absence of a clamp at the junction of the pass-through with the pipe. The consequences are roof leaks, wetting of the rafter system and insulation, with subsequent destruction. Remedy: restore tightness, install a clamp;
• Lack or insufficient insulation of the exit. Consequences: a decrease in traction in the ventilation duct, and in cold weather freezing with a complete cessation of traction. Remedy: perform additional thermal insulation;
• Installation ventilation deflector without observing the distance between the edge of the pipe and the umbrella of the device. Consequences: a decrease in thrust, its termination or the occurrence of reverse thrust. Remedy: make the ventilation outlet higher than the wind pressure zone or install a deflector with an electric fan;
• No reinforcement of a high ventilation pipe. Consequences: falling of the pipe during strong gusts of wind, damaging the roof or injuring people. Remedy: Reinforce the pipe with guy wires, bevels or stanchions.

Do not make these mistakes when installing ventilation outlets in your home. And if the work has already been completed, then make sure that it is done correctly and, if necessary, make corrections in time.

The specifics of the organization of the ventilation system in the chicken coop will acquaint next article, the information of which will be extremely useful to farmers and owners of a small private farm.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

This video will show you how to install a ventilation outlet on a metal tile roof:

Video of installing a ventilation outlet on a soft roof:

This video shows an option for installing mows:

There is nothing difficult in installing a ventilation outlet. Thanks to a wide selection of materials, it is possible to make and install such an outlet both independently and using factory products that have undoubted attractiveness.

The main thing during installation is to ensure the tightness of the passage through the roof, the correct height, reliable fastening and good thermal insulation.

Tell us about how you equipped the passage through the roof with your own hands. It is possible that you have information on the topic that may be useful to site visitors. Please write your comments in the block form below, ask questions, post photos.